Begehungen in California als Red point

Ground up over seven days and then we camped on top and hiked down on the eighth day. We pre-hauled to Hollow Flake Ledge, took two rest days, and then went up the route. Some nice Germans fixed the lines off Heart to above the Hollow Flake for us so we didn’t climb those pitches on our pre-hauling day and preserved our ground up as much as we could. We also didn’t do the Free Blast before our ground up attempt which was cool and definitely added to the experience. I top roped the Monster because I got tired of whipping from the move into it all the way back into the Ear in the dark at 5am and then gave the reigns to Jesse who fired it and then I followed. I top roped the Enduros because we didn’t do them first go and I also took the stance at the no hands ledge on the move off heart. These are my asterisks, do with them what you will.

I will probably write something more when my brain and body decide to work again.

Best thing i’ve ever done!

FA

FFA.

Like a dream...

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGpuWvtFF22/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGiHBPpMcVO/

Carlo via Insta: It’s rare to find something that not only challenges you in a way that nothing else has but also happens to be the best piece of rock you’ve ever climbed on. Thanks to Jimmy Webb for tipping me off to this cliff more than 2 years ago and continuing to share your stoke and vision, to Dave Wetmore for being a motivated partner on the initial days of bolting and cleaning, and @marymeck @joshjlowlowy for the working belays and Daniel Woods for the send belay.

#FA

Hazel via Insta: "Well I‘m pleased as punch. ☺️Gushing and long post to follow... (but feels appropriate). Today I climbed Magic Line fourth try of the day, on the last day of the trip with the pressure on and an emotional roller coaster of (more) breaking foot holds, a sore finger, numb feet and wind-blown water from Vernal Falls. But I worked hard for this one. I knew as soon as I tried it very briefly in November 2018 that if I was ever going to climb one very hard (for me) single pitch this would be it. Just because it was so beautiful to look at, so fun to move upwards on and in such a magical place. So I trained properly with the help of David Mason all summer and I committed myself to these 35 metres for the whole valley season. It was stressful getting heartbreakingly close twice but in reality doing it on the last day of the trip meant that this route was the perfect challenge for me, testing me right to the end. To give you an idea of how hard this route was for me - the lower boulder crux is the hardest boulder problem I’ve ever done. Of course it’s nice to bask in send-glory but really the process is where I’ll take the value from and there’s no chance this route hasn’t made me a better climber/person. Thanks to the Kauks for inspiring me especially Lonnie (who I think has done the route 4 times now 🤯) and all the valley friends this year who’ve spectated or participated in this process and supported me along the way especially Madeleine Cope, Angus Kille, Barbara Zangerl (lucky belay), Jacopo Larcher, Sandy Russell, Keenan Takahashi."

Every one of the stars. Damn near perfect! 3 tries.

Really amazing route. Stoked to pull a send together before the temps warmed up too much. Fun side project between work and travels.

Hard

Perfection. Low end.

2nd Ascent. Respect to Beth.

Hard

magic-mushroom-jacopo-larcher-barbara-zangerl-magical-big-wall-el-capitan.html">Interview with Jacopo and Babsi

#2go Cave climbing at its best.

#2go

Great climbing and unbeatable location. Coastal classic.

FA

some time summer 2020 with Sam Daulton.

Much easier than Peace for me.

FFA with Connor Herson

13c/d, height dependent.

Love the granite up here.

30 pitches up to 5.13 c, 8 days ascent together with Jacopo

FFA.