Routen in Mount Saint Helena

Far left most route. Two bolt anchor with carabiners. One is a locker.

Climb up and right to the middle of the face. Two bolt anchor with quick links.

Lead Fistful of Hueco to the left and then setup a top rope by scrambling around the tree. Two bolt Anchor

Pocketed slab makes a great warm up for other routes on the Bubble. Crux is a reach around the 2nd bolt.

Top anchor is on one good bolt and two old button heads. There are no rap-rings or chains, so your final descent will be a walk-off.

No top anchor. Small to medium pro suffices.

Reachy, pocketed face climbing to 2-bolt top anchor.

Easier pocketed face climbing leads to crux moves at a hollow-sounding flake atop the arête.

Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. Mind the poison oak.

Above the top anchor, a second higher set of chains is visible. These chains are appropriate for top-roping the west face; however, lead climbing to the higher anchors is poorly protected and less interesting, therefore also not recommended.

Cruise up the well-protected overhanging parade of huecos to crux moves on sharp 1- and 2-finger pockets that will make you question the published grade. The rest ledge becomes menacing once you move into tenuous climbing on the upper face.

Popular variations move right or left after the 4th bolt to finish on neighboring routes, avoiding the sharp pockets, crux moves, and potential ledge fall.

Perhaps the funnest route at the Bubble, with massive jug-filled huecos yielding a variety of overhanging no-hands rests.

Bolted April 2012. Chain top anchor.

Overhanging huecos and pockets make this a memorable route. Gets it grade from height-dependent crux below the first bolt.

This popular variation avoids the low crux the regular route. Unfortunately, if you're too short for the regular route, you might also be too short to clip the first bolt from the left. Consider a clip stick, or else be careful if you skip that first bolt.

Start right of the 'Bubble Boy'[18575347] cave with crux moves up the small overhanging arête. Stay right of 'Bubble Boy'[18575347], pulling over bulges onto pocketed faces. Finish on the pair of cracks before moving left to the top anchor.

Highball start. Pro to 3.5"

Pull the low bulge then move up on pocketed slab to the next bulge and the crux. Unless this route has been rebolted, slab sections are runout.

Mixed variation of 'Catchy'[18575467] that moves right into the chimney instead of over the bulge. Watch for loose rocks in the chimney.

2-bolt top anchor.

2-bolt top anchor.

2-bolt top anchor.

First 2 bolts shared with 'Jekyll & Hyde'[18573613]. Continues left to chain top anchor.

Diagonal crack leads up and left. Hand-jam through the crux. Rock quality improves halfway up. Chain top anchor shared with 'Kidnapped'[18573565]. The original route uses the first two bolts of 'Kidnapped'[18573565]/'Jekyll & Hyde'[18573613], but it can be led with only traditional protection by sticking to the crack. Pro to 1.5", with the option for larger gear near the bottom.

Runout can be mitigated with an optional 0.5"-0.75" cam. Cold shut top anchor.

Start at the base of 'Bear Fingers'[220123827] and follow jugs over the steepest line up the face. Finish on the short finger crack to cold shut top anchors.

A variation on this route moves right before the finger crack to the last bolt and top anchors of 'Rampage'[18573727].

Face climbing variation of the Beast. Starts left of the hand crack.

Direct start variation of 'Kill Uncle'[18574087], left of the original start. Stick-clip the first bolt and pull through the crux moves.

1. Chimney climbing to a 3-bolt anchor at the belay ledge. 4 bolts and 1 piton.

2. Facing climbing to an overhanging crack to a 2-bolt top anchor. 5 bolts.

Runout on the second pitch can be mitigated with 0.75-2" cams. Watch for loose rock, especially at the top, and wear a helmet.

To descend, either (a) walk off to Crystal Pockets area, or (b) rappel from 'Theodore Roosevelt'[18574363] to the first belay anchor, then rappel again to the ground.

Starts from a 2-bolt anchor left of top anchor for the 1st pitch of 'Mark's Moderate'[18574279]. Face climbing along pockets up the gray streak to a 2-bolt top anchor. Watch for loose rock at the top, and be mindful of those down below.

Start in a corner, then move up and right with a crux move getting over the bulge.

Thin face climbing. Crux comes early with a difficult crimps at the first bolt.

Climb along thin seams to chains at the base of 'Bear Arête'[18574927].

Doubles of pro 1"-4"

Pro to 5".

Pro to 3.5"

Belay second from tree. Walk off. Pro 2"-4"

Runout between 1st and 2nd bolt. New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Feelin Your Oats'[18577015].

Chimney left of 'Saviour Heart'[18576793]. Wide pro.

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor with rap rings shared with 'Step to the Left'[18577141].

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Better Eat Your Wheaties'[18576937].

Bolted line left of 'Saviour Heart'[18576793]. First bolt is high but can be protected with gear.

(This is probably the unnamed 3-star 5.9 (#19) in 'Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area'.)

Runout can be mitigated with some larger cams.

Climb the chimney left of 'Shute-Mills'[18576619] and finish on the last 2 bolts of 'New Tradition'[220416858]. Highball start. Pro to 2".

The first bolt is high and above the crux, which can be optionally protected with a small cam. 3-bolt top anchor.

Starts on blunt arête left of 'Step to the Left'[18577141]. One pin and 3 bolts.

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor with rap rings shared with 'Death to the Right'[220430406].

Climb the pillar, then link up with 'New Tradition'[220416858] or 'Shute-Mills'[18576619]. Blocks on the pillar may not be very stable. Pro to 2".

Runout between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Can be mitigated with 0.75"-1.5" cams. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Boneless Chicken Ranch'[18575779].

Runout near the top can be mitigated with pro. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Seymour Frishberg'[18575701].

Crack between 'Something Good'[220428813] and 'Step to the Left'[18577141]. Highball start. Pro to 2".

2-bolt top anchor on a ledge with rap rings.

Starts as a second pitch above 'Shute-Mills'[18576619]. 3-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Chief'[18576565] and 'War Party'[18576505]. Pro: large cams for the crack.

2-bolt top anchor with rap rings.

Rap rings for top anchor.

2-bolt top anchor with rap rings (replaced 2010).

3-bolt top anchor with 2 new (2012) rap rings. Top anchor shared with 'War Party'[18576505].

3-bolt top anchor with 2 new (2012) rap rings. Top anchor shared with 'The Chief'[18576565].

2 bolts down low lead to pocketed face climbing to a 2-bolt top anchor.

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Farther'[220437738].

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Far Out'[220436832].

2-bolt top anchor.

2-bolt top anchor.

2-bolt top anchor.

2-bolt top anchor. Pro up to 2".

The slab (5.8) and arête (5.10a) to the right can be toporoped from this top anchor. These are the two unnamed 2-star top-rope routes in "Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area".

From the top anchors of 'Old Tradition'[220464162], top-rope the slab to the right. Further right you can top-rope the 'arête'[18576745].

(This is the unnamed 5.8 "Toprope route" (#12) in "Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area".)

From the top anchors of 'Old Tradition'[220464162], top-rope the arête to the right, past the 'slab'[220494351].

(This is the unnamed 5.10 "Toprope route" (#13) in "Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area".)

Pro to 2.5". No top anchor.

Cold shuts top anchor shared with 'Kola'[18576091].

Cold shuts top anchor shared with 'Separation Anxiety'[16446595].

Top anchor is a single bolt with a quicklink and a crack for natural pro.

Top anchor is a single bolt.

An additional third bolt can be used to belay the second before a 4th class scramble and 3rd class walk off.

(This route may be the unnamed 2-star 5.10a (#5) in 'Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area'.)

Climb the crack to the right of 'Two-Bolt Slab'[18575983]. Natural top anchor and 4th class walk off. Pro up to 1.5".

Clip-stick the first bolt. 2-bolt top anchor with no rings (walk off).

(This is the 2-star unnamed 5.11d (#6) in 'Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area'.)

2-bolt top anchor with no rings (walk off).

(This is the 2-star unnamed 5.10a (#5) in 'Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area'.)

Last bolt shared with 'Night of the Crash Test Dummies'[220444113].

2-bolt top anchor.

Last bolt shared with 'Curse of Madame C'[220435044].