Begehungen in Lake Tahoe, California Side haben Beta

Absolutely phenomenal line, up there with the Spartan for the best 5.7 in existence. Except this is 3 pitches of equal quality climbing. Sick corner and roof on p1, absurd runout arete face climbing exposure on p2, a chimney that you wish went forever into a pretty scary traverse on a single bent up piton into 40m of jug hauling on p3. P3 traverse absolutely scarier on second with the lack of pro but J powered through after hauling the pack through the chimney - smiles the whole way up the jug haul.

I absolutely butchered the route finding on p2 when trying to link pitches, rope drag defeated me on the solable terrain just shy of the summit - linkup with corro corner

Only the first pitch, mega fun, thinky and balancy

Don't do stupid gaston match. Go straight up, headed for chockstone jug.

Had a bash as I was up there, very physical

Tonne of fun

Awesome route, burly at the start.

Fun route to solo

Fun route

Fun, varied.

Lovely gentle climb

tronsight

2nd try

Failed onsight attempt, 1 lap on toprope, came back and sent on lead.

fell during lead onsight attempt. Toprope send.

Got mixed up and started on Black Pyre then moved over. Tricky getting over the bulge, then moderate but harder to protect, lots of drag. Very fun route, felt spicey.

One of the most fun routes so far, loved it, loved the squeezy finish variation. Goes in two pitches with a 70m rope.

Great fun, the hollowness of some of the flakes is made up for by how fun the movement is.

onsighted with easy start, repeated with full value start

swing around to the left side of arete, off of good pair jugs. meathook over top of left jug with right hand. delicate

Two hard moves for crux. Psuedo finger lock with left hand, get right foot jam in obvious V below right hand.

2 tries. worked all moves on first try. starts easy, gets harder. very sequential just under the lip

fucking wacky and absurd. only gear needed is 2x #2s, 2 long slings for chockstones, and maybe a blue totem for ramp. bring small gear up to .5s or .75s if doing vertical chimney exit, no e tra gear if doing exit past big sharks tooth

probably 10 tries over 5 sessions, and then sent while hanging draws on warmup/beta burn.

fun climbing. sporty, runout, heady.

very hard for grade. incredible line, great climbing, bold. feel like an oldschool hardman on it. accidentally did the 5.8/+ variation by climbing the wide crack on 3rd pitch. for standard route, traverse right to the corner after the chimney, look for a piton

accidentally linked into one long pitch with an 80. too much rope drag, build belay in biggest pod before the small roof

80m reaches summit from tree belay

very delicate, on the edge. fun fun fun

2nd go. ran into Brad and he gave me the rules on it

Guidebook and Brad Johnson both have it at .12a. In the .11s if you use the arete. contrived rules problem

Awesome moves, took a while to get it worked out, amazing climb

Mega fun, amazing movement. Felt hard down low

3 goes. fell on heartbreaker last move. rock hard on left foot, find blind right foot.

Very fun and varied movement, excellent route

I’m sure it would have been amazing if leading was not so terrifying for me - I made it up a little way with some pre-placed gear but as soon as that ran out, it was panic o’clock 😅

First lead since Tonsai 9ish months ago and first trad lead since Tassie in 2016, so - despite the easy grade, was stoked with myself 🤩 I even ran it out quite a bit, which is unheard of for me 😅