Eintrag |
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Sugarloaf |
Sugarloaf |
Sugarloaf |
West Face |
Sugarloaf West Face |
5.9 Crack Face |
5.10c
★ Happy Face
A thin finger crack along an arête leads up to the first bolt. Continue up the arête for a couple of moves before climbing the face to the bolted top anchor. Pro: a couple of small pieces for the crack at the start. |
5.10b
★★★ Hyperspace
Pro to 1.5". |
5.10
Trumpled under Foot
Variation of 'Hyperspace'[20648887]. |
5.10a
Twist and Shout
Start to the right of 'Hyperspace'[20648887]. Climb up the left-facing ramp to the top of the pedestal, and clip the first bolt. Steep face moves to the second bolt are followed by a right-facing corner to the top. Pro to 2", including micro-nuts. |
5.11d
★ Back in Black
Start up the 5.6 chimney along the left side of the Lobe to meet the top of the 'Podium'[20649253] chimney. From here, a line of four bolts leads up and left. Powerful protected moves past the bolts are followed with a 40 ft of easy (5.6), runout climbing to the top anchor. Walk off, or descend with a 60m rope by rappelling to the anchors for 'Hyperspace'[20648887]. |
5.11b
★ The Man Who Fell to Earth
Start up the crack shared with the start of 'Only the Young Die Brave'[20649205], then traverse up and left along bolts. Difficult face climbing past large knobs takes you to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'[20649205]. Pro: a 1" cam for the crack at the start. |
5.11c
Only the Young Die Brave
Climb up the bolted arête with a crux above the 2nd bolt. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Man Who Fell to Earth'[20649103]. Pro to 4". |
5.9
★★ The Podium
Fingers-to-fists crack leads to a wide chimney that leads up the right side of the Lobe, to the left of 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Descend by rappelling from the tree. |
5.11b
Under the Spreading Atrophy
Start just left of 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Tenuous moves on thinner and thinner holds lead up the bolted face to a thin crack. Traverse right and finish with the last 30 ft of 'Pony Express'[20649151] to the shared chain anchor. Often top-roped after climbing 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Pro to 3". |
5.9
★ Pony Express
Many parties just do the excellent first pitch. Pro to 3.5". |
5.12a
★ Cry Uncle
Thin edges on the bolted face lead up to a left-leaning 5.10d crack that is difficult to protect. Avoid fragile flakes. 2-bolt top anchor. Top-rope this route by climbing P1 of 'Pony Express'[20649457] first. Pro to 1", including micro-nuts. |
5.11a
★ Expresso
From the top of P1 of 'Pony Express'[20649457], continue left up the line of bolts. Rappel back to the top of 'Pony Express'[20649457] to descend. |
5.11b
Mackerel Sky
Ascends the face right of 'West Chimney'[20649505].
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5.8
★ West Chimney
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5.10a
★★ TM's Deviation
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5.10c
Hard Right
Pro to 2". |
5.10d
★★ Pan Dulce
Pro to 2". Descend by rappelling back down the route, or traverse around to the right to finish on 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297]. |
5.12d
★★ Grand Delusion
A thin crack leads up to two bolts before traversing left past a row of pitons to a 2-bolt top anchor above a ledge. Pro to 1". Before it was freed, this was an aid route known as Scapegoat (5.8 A2). Top-rope this route by climbing 'Pan Dulce'[20649661] first. |
5.10b
★★ Fat Merchant Crack
Huge pro 5" to 12". |
5.9
★ Blind Faith
Start at the belay anchor atop P1 of 'Fat Merchant Crack'[20649769]. Follow the left-leaning corner up to the roof, then traverse right to finish with P3 of 'Bolee Gold'[20649985]. A dangerously sharp edge at the beginning of the traverse out of the roof has resulted in a fatal accident. The sharp edge may or may not still be there, but the risk can be mitigated by placing additional protection for the follower directly after the crux. |
5.12a
★★ Sugar Daddy
|
5.12a R
★★ The Ghost in the Machine
Descend with 60m rope in 3 rappels past top anchors for 'Pan Dulce'[20649661] and 'Grand Delusion'[20649721]. Pro to 3", including micro nuts and slings for knobs. |
5.11d
★ Ziplock
This horizontal line starts from the top of the first pitch of 'Bolee Gold'[20649985] and traverses directly left past 2 pitons. Small pro to 1". |
Sugarloaf |
South Face / The Fang |
Sugarloaf South Face / The Fang |
5.12a
★ Harder Than It Used to Be
Thin face climbing up the right side of the arête to the top anchor shared with P1 of 'Bolee Gold'[20649985]. |
5.10c R
★★ Bolee Gold
To reach the base of the route, climb the ramp at the base of the south face and look for the bolts.
Don't even think of grabbing those dangerously loose flakes near the arête on P3 and P4. With so many hanging belays, it may be no surprise that this route is seldom climbed in 4 pitches. Suggested variations:
Descent options:
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5.12a
★★ Hooker's Haven
Finger crack to the overhanging arch, with two bolts leading to a chain top anchor. Pro to 3". |
5.9
★★ The Fang
Finger cracks to a tightening chimney. Summit the fang at the bolted top anchor and rap off. Pro to 3". |
5.11d
★★★ Bird Man
Thin and difficult to protect crack climbing leads to challenging and sustained bolted face climbing. Rap off with 2 ropes. |
5.11a
★ Talking Heads
Climb the thin flake shared with 'Bird Man'[20650141, then move right for delicate face climbing past 3 bolts to the 2-bolt anchor at the top of the fang. Pro 0.4" to 0.6". |
5.10a
★★ The Stone
Climb up the right side of The Fang, then traverse out left onto the face. Tie off knobs on your way to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Talking Heads'[20650189]. Variation (5.10d): Starting at the tree, follow the finger crack up the middle of the face of The Fang before moving onto the knobs above. Top-rope this route after leading P1 of 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297]. Pro to 1" with slings for tie-offs. |
Sugarloaf |
East Face |
Sugarloaf East Face |
5.7 R
★★ Harding's Chimney
Walk off descent. Variations:
Pro to 3" with doubles in the larger sizes. Bring 9"-10" pro if you have it. |
5.10a
★ South Summit Bolt Ladder
Short pitch from the notch of 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297] to the summit of the south face. Pull on bolts to turn the 5.10 mantle into A0. |
5.11b
★★ The Gallows Pole
Original variation. Climb 20 ft up 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297] before traversing out right to some flakes at the 4th bolt. Continue up sustained knob climbing and smearing to the 2-bolt top anchor. Pro: huge pro for the chimney if you have it. |
5.11d
★★ Gallows Pole Direct
The direct start variation demands challenging, technical climbing past the first 3 bolts before moving left to join the original route at the flakes before the 4th bolt. |
5.12a
★★ Beast of Burden
This bolted line up the beautiful arête left of 'Scheister'[] starts with perplexing and powerful moves before before easing into sustained 5.10 climbing up the arête to the 2-bolt top anchor. |
5.12a
Bewilderbeast
Climb the first 2 bolts of 'Beast of Burden'[20650417], then traverse left. Face climbing on knobs takes you past 8 more bolts and 2 knob tie offs to a 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Gallows Pole'[20650357]. Pro: slings for knobs tie-offs. |
5.8 Over the Edge |
5.7
★★ Scheister
Starts up the ramp left of 'Crushed Velvet'[241259787] and 'Farley'[20650705].
Walk off descent. Variations:
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5.10c R
★★ Blue Velvet
The last two pitches are seldom climbed. The start is located up the ramp at the base of the face between 'Scheister'[20650525] and 'Farley'[20650705].
After P3, finish with the last 20 feet of 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297] and walk off to descend. |
5.10c
★ Crushed Velvet
Start on the first 20-30 ft of 'Farley'[20650705] then continue straight up to the bolted line up the face. Descent options:
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5.10b
★ Tapestry
Climb up the first 20 ft of 'Farley'[20650705], then head up and left to clip the first bolt (which is also the 5th bolt of 'Blue Velvet'[20650585]). Continue up and right past two knobs for 75 ft to the second bolt (which is also shared with 'Crushed Velvet'[241259787]). Continue up the face for another 75 ft to a horizontal crack, then head to the top. |
5.9
★★ Farley
The last two pitches are seldom climbed.
Variations:
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5.11d
★ Opus 7
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5.13c
★★★ The Grand Illusion
Gaze in awe at this severely overhanging crack requiring difficult stemming and powerful finger locks. This used to be the last aid pitch of 'The Fracture'[20650981] until it was freed in 1979 to become the second recorded 5.13. Thin pro to 1.5". |
5.12b
★★ The Mini Illusion
Hand crack up to sustained overhanging thin finger crack with fixed draws. The hand crack protects with a 2.5" cam. |
5.11b
★★★ Taurus
P2 variation: 'Lady Luck'. |
5.10a
★★ Lady Luck
Runout face climbing above 'Taurus'[20650861] heads straight up past 1 or 2 bolts. Topo is approximate. |
5.11c
Pinch a Loaf
Thin face climbing past bolts to finish at the top anchor for either P1 of 'The Fracture'[20650981] or 'Taurus'[20650861]. |
5.10d
★★ The Fracture
|
5.11a PG13
★★ Telesis
Tenuous face climbing up thin features to a 2-bolt top anchor. Runout near the end on 5.9 terrain. Top-rope this route by first leading 'Dominion'[20651149]. |
5.10a
★★★ Dominion
Hand jams up a thin crack lead to liebacking and stemming. Finish the pitch on slabs and flakes to the bolted top anchor of your choice. Pro to 2". Descent options:
|
5.12c
★★ Captain Fingers
Lock and lieback up the thin finger crack to a 2-bolt top anchor. Tricky pro before the crux. Pro: brass nuts, offset nuts, and cams to 3.5", with doubles in the smaller sizes. Top-rope this route by leading 'Dominion'. Descend with a 70m rope from the rappel station to the right of the top anchor. |
5.7
East Chimney
Pro to 3". Walk of descent. Loose chockstones have resulted in injury on this blocky, marginal route. Use caution. |
5.9
★★ Morticia
Start in the corner with 'Lurch'[20651353] and traverse left around the roof to follow the bolts up the face. A 60m rope is just long enough for top-roping. Pro to 2.5". |
5.8 R
★ Lurch
|
5.8
Swallow’s Tale
Located right of 'Lurch'[20651353], starts at the chains on the East Terrace. Face climbing past thin cracks and a horizontal to a 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Monkey Flower'[241389279] and 'The Wanker'[241394559]. Pro to 2". Phototopo is approximate. |
5.10c
Monkey Flower
Start at the chains on the East Terrace to the right of 'Swallow's Tail'[241380039], then climb the face up and right past small cracks and knob tie-offs to a 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Swallow's Tail'[241380039] and 'The Wanker'[241394559]. Pro: small to medium gear, slings for tie-offs. Phototopo is approximate. |
5.11a
The Wanker
Start to the right of 'Monkey Flower'[241389279] in the left-facing dihedral. Climb up to the crack and join 'Monkey Flower'[241389279] to finish at the 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Swallow's Tail'[241380039] and 'Monkey Flower'[241389279]. Pro: standard rack. Phototopo is approximate. |
5.12a
Eastern Bloc
Bolted knobby route to the top of the pale egg-shaped boulder right of 'Lurch'[20651353]. Phototopo is approximate. |
5.8
Hanging Jugs
Pro to 3". Bolt count is approximate. |
5.7 Scorpio |
5.11a East Face |
Sugarloaf |
**Unsorted**:
|
5.10 Yet Another Squeeze Job |
5.10b Ethics |
5.9 A2 Lost in the Fog |
West Buttress |
West Buttress |
5.10b
★ Short Toe
Bring a single piece of gear to protect the start. |
5.9 ★★ Middle Toe |
5.8 ★★ Long Toe |
5.7
★★ Sacroiliac Joint
Pro: 0.5" to 3.5". |
5.8 ★ The Left Cheek |
5.9 ★ Pickin' It |
5.10b ★★ Knobelty |
5.9 ★ Scratchin' It |
5.7
★★ Cryptogamic
Pro: 0.5" to 2.5". |
5.10d ★★ Sciatica |
Split Rock |
Split Rock |
5.10d V-Pie |
5.10d
ROOO
Route Of Obscure Origin. |
5.12 Jerk Tartly Arete |
5.6 Bulbosity |
5.9 ★★★ Prime Rib |
5.9 Fossilmax |
5.6 Chim-Chiminey |
5.9
★★ Tri Tip Split Roast
Starts at the low point of Split Rock, steps across the chimney, and slab walks up to the anchors. Fun to lead or follow, but too long and awkward to toprope safely. |
Dental Wall |
Dental Wall |
5.8
★★ Cracked Tooth
Climb the diagonal crack, left to right. Cannot be top-roped. |
5.9
★★ Gumline
Left of 'Cuspid'[20652613]. |
5.6 ★★ Cuspid |
5.10d
Plumbline
Right of 'Cuspid'[20652613]. Thin face climbing. |
5.10d ★ Toothpick |
5.10d ★ Gingivitis |
Midway Rock |