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Ich stimme zu
Fell on top rope trying to figure out the roof move. Lieback section was superstrenuous, and the roof move was supercool. Rest of the route is pretty straightforward after that. Anchors were kinda sketchy. The book says to rappel off a tree but we couldn't find a good tree to rappel from, so we just rapped off the old bolts.
Small hands to full hands @ switch to slab. Kinda cool, really wigged me out though as I didn't know what to expect and tried to mess around for too long with green and red hexes. I ended up leap frogging a #1 camalot for the bottom section, and never leaving it in the crack. Would send easy with a couple extra #1 camalots and lunch. Placed a red hex at beginning in shallow stopper mode, frogged a #1 camalot, #4 camalot or purple hexentric for the wide section. Threw in a bomber .75 camalot right above, and then a supersweet #2 camalot before the anchors.
Borrowed a #1 camalot, and 3 wild country tech friends. Now that I could fire in pro near the bottom w/o messing w/ hexes, this sent pretty easily. Placed two #1's in bottom, then threw in the purple hex at the bottom of the wide section. Followed that up with a .75 and #2 camalots near the top.