Routen als traditionell in Taos

Follow climbers trail marked with rock cairns from trail up unto the front apron of rock. Start between two sloping rock walls just up from a tree. This can be done as a two or three pitch climb. If done as three pitches go to a tree up and a little to the right for the first pitch. If done as two pitches go to a tree with slings on it in line with the initial ridge edge. The first pitch is 61 meters long if done as two pitches. By starting a little high between the sloping rock walls you can do it with a 60 meter rope, but you will be starting on a 5.8 wall instead of the easier, and less aesthetic ridge. The last pitch is up and right over a flanged edge of a rock wall, around a corner and straight up the airy route climbing on chicken heads (5.6-5.7) all the way, or almost all the way to the chains(at the end you may slip around the right side too). Except for one bolt, protection here is by slinging chicken heads.

Classic finger crack

Plus 2 bolts

Open book/chimney with cracks between Either Or and Esmerelda

Route goes up nose on south side of Mosaic Wall. Friction to a rounded nose with bolts (crux), then more friction to secondary crux at a nose, followed by an easy finish. Climbed with Fritz. Fritz frequently leads this one.

Between Baby Cakes and Benvenidos. Go straight up to chains. Start on face with small side ramp for feet, then rounded flake grab with right hand. Up on face, then work left onto recessed face with small handholds above and right foothold on rounded edge. The move up from this is the crux. Face then starts rolling off. Ascend fun off width with little bushy tree at bottom. Climb rolls off again, then 5.8 to 5.9 face which soon rolls off, hence to chains.

The name is conditional. We didn't pioneer it. Face just right of Rusty P.

The start is located about 35' left of Digital Dilemma. Starts as an open book which may be entered from the left. The open book has a crack in the corner. The crux is an overhung bulge at the top of the open book. Continue around the right side of the bulge, surmount it and friction climb to chains at top. The chains were not designed for this climb, so if you subsequently top rope it, insert an eight foot long sling between the chains and the top rope to avoid rope drag. Carry small to medium cams for pro.

Between Digital Dilemma and Gila Monster. Route goes up next to crack 2' in from right edge, utilizing crack, slips right around warty bulge on right side of face and continues across face to Digital Dilemma chains. We top roped it; protection could be sparse.

Follow the crack to the right of Zorro and then right up the arete to the Zorro anchors. The gear placements in the upper half of the crack are difficult until you start ascending the arete.

Fist Crack.