Begehungen in World von Freddie Chopin

jedyny problem tej drogi to mizerna długość, bo tak to jest rewelacyjna – przewieszenie (konkretne), same dobre chwyty, fajne siłowe ruchy, dobre stopnie, …

jakby nie wyjątkowo chamskie i siłowe wyjście na górze, to normalnie byłaby droga idealna, a tak to tylko jurajski balderek

bald na górze

dół mocno „dudniący”, dlatego pozwoliłem sobie go przejść korzystając z prawej ściany – ogólnie łatwe

ciekawy baldzik pod koniec

typowa jura, ze 3 trudne ruchy bez stopni

krótkie, ale całkiem fajne, balder w środku, jak się wie co-i-jak to nawet prosty

The boulder is very similar in difficulty to another one I did a few days ago. On an 8a. On another thought it is much harder. This must be the hardest boulder I did in this whole trip 😃 damn, this route is either incredibly hard or I found a very bad beta. Apart from the boulder at the bottom the rest is very easy.

Yes, it is brutal 😃 pumpy and rather hard 😃

Easy for taller people. In this case there is no boulder at the bottom and the second boulder in the upper part is just one dynamic move.

There are maybe two or three smaller holds on the whole route, all other are huge. There are maybe two easier boulders, all other moves are straightforward. Yet the steep angle and lack of good rests make you pumped very quickly. Fantastic route! Pure endurance and some strength to pull yourself up this monster.

Vertical wall with two boulders, however the remaining part is pretty sustained and the good rests are only at the bottom part.

Tricky, varied and very sustained! Holds from the "smaller" group.

Two boulders, rather dirty.

A few hard moves at the start and that's all

Nice fight! Easy slab and vertical wall lead to a very good rest. Then you have a very powerful boulder followed by a rather poor rest. Then another technical boulder with poor footholds and smallish handholds, which ends with a rather good rest. Finally there is a third easy technical boulder and a chain. Do not go over it, everything is loose there! Generally the route is long, however the hard part is less than a half.

Very intense, very pumpy 😃

Very varied, covers a lot of climbing styles, holds, angles and moves! A few different boulders separated by good or very good rests. Rather easy.

Rather short route for the sector, one boulder with smaller hold and dynamic move, maybe a bit pumpy, overall the easiest one of the three most popular 7a's here.

Still a long one for the sector, two tricky boulders with smaller holds, possibly reachy, definitely also pumpy.

The longest of the 7a's, two boulders, but also pumpy.

Extremely pumpy and I mean it 😃

Very pumpy...

A few longer moves in the top part

#2go bouldery and pumpy, but the holds are really sharp, so I wouldn't want to have more tries here or do the moves very dynamically. Generally very nice but the structure of the holds is a real problem.

Easier boulder at the start, mediocre rest and another harder boulder with pumpy exit. Both bouldery and endurance.

Bouldery, possibly reachy

Boulder at the bottom, very easy

Almost all holds are big, maybe there are a few harder moves here and there, but for most of the length this route is a perfect overhang on jugs 😃 a "must do", rather easy assuming you are free to go slightly left or right.

Perfect 😃 overhang on good holds, endurance route

Guidebook said it's "homogeneous", but I say it has a definite crux in the middle, pumpy+polished beginning and easy end.

Very pumpy, but the crux is just one move at the top... some holds "sound funny".

Very brutal, felt really hard. A very reachy and dynamic move to a rather sharp hold.

Very nice, however also bouldery as the rest of the routes in the sector. Probably reachy.

Felt pretty hard. A dynamic boulder with a few hard moves, probably reachy. After the crux I went right, following the chalk, before returning back left.

Basically a boulder with a crimp, rest was rather easy.

Very varied and has quite unique holds. However also pretty hard 😃

Nice climb, endurance on good holds with a small overhang

Nice and overhanging, endurance

Pure endurance

Pure endurance

Pure endurance

Very good, endurance on good holds, felt rather hard.

Quite nice, varied.

Wonderful! Overhang filled with a series of boulders on good holds, what else could you want? Ah yes, a different orientation so that the sector would be on shade all day, not just for the last 3-4 hours in the evening...

#2go it was - as usually 😃 - pretty close to OS. Long boulder, then rest and another easier boulder.

Yeah, felt pretty pumped at the end 😃

With a (black) cherry at the top 😃 pretty varied, nice climb!

6c+ in the new guidebook. Starts as a series of boulders, but the rests are getting worse and worse, so in the end I would say this is an endurance route.

6a+ in the new guidebook. A few boulders.

Very varied and sustained route. Great climbing!

A few reachy boulders on good holds

Not especially sustained, not especially bouldery, not very reachy. The route is nice, but I really don't remember anything from it (;

#2go a minor foot slip at the last move cost me a failed OS and a broken fingernail... /; generally two crux moves separated by a rest

Very sustained, especially when compared to total length.

w sumie po poznaniu wszystkich „tricków” (kolanka, jak zrobić bezproblemowo piątą wpinkę, ze 4 pięty i optymalna ostatnia wpinka) można by zaryzykować twierdzenie, że nie ma tam jakichś (bardzo) trudnych ruchów, na pewno nie ma też kiepskich chwytów, za to ciąg jest taki, że odcina dopływ krwi do mózgu (; takie 10 baldów pod rząd bez żadnego restu (; super trasa! No i jak dla mnie VI.5+ a nie żadne łamańce.