Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Di 1. Jan 2019 - Malibu Creek State Park | ||||||
Stumbling Blocks | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Third Degree | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Di 25. Dez 2018 - Jacks Canyon | ||||||
Moenkopi Cracker Jack Cliffs | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Jack Off - mit Luciana Albuquerque, Patty, Pedro | |||||
5.9 | ★ You Don't Know Jack @#*!! - mit Luciana Albuquerque, Patty, Pedro | 4 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Betty Cracker - mit Luciana Albuquerque, Patty, Pedro | 5 | ||||
Mo 1. Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Jaws | 15m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
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Mo 1. Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Woodpecker Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Woodpecker | 16m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Really good, despite the bouldery start.
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So 31. Dez 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Stormin Norman | 12m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
So 31. Dez 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Pallets of Pies | 12m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Caught the slot after the big throw with the skin of my chinny chin chin.
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Fr 29. Dez 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Soft Parade The Middle | ||||||
10 | ★ Lazy Lizards | 8m | ||||
Lovely! Little mini-exposure around the arete.
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12 | ★ A Soft Touch | 8m | ||||
Noice!
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16 | ★ A Touch of Frost | 10m | ||||
Pretty dang mincy for 16.
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10 | ★ Lazy Lizards | 8m | ||||
Lovely! Little mini-exposure around the arete.
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12 | ★ A Soft Touch | 8m | ||||
Noice!
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16 | ★ A Touch of Frost | 10m | ||||
Pretty dang mincy for 16.
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Fr 29. Dez 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Soft Parade The Right Hand End | ||||||
16 | ★★ Visions Fade | 12m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Coolies!
Top is way harder for littlelies. Poor Lu took some big lobs! |
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Do 28. Dez 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Ancient Mariner Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★ Cowboy Clip | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Warm up. Love this thing. Stayed light on the knee.
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21 | ★ Cowboy Clip | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Warm down
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Do 28. Dez 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Jaws | 15m, 4 | ||||
21 | ★★ Jaws | 15m, 4 | ||||
Do 28. Sep 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Underworld | ||||||
25 | ★ The River Styx - mit Sam Bowman, Alistair Earley | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
5 min rest and just went again. Would've been well stroppy if I fell again.
Rock is pretty crapola, but the movement is good. Would be a rough one for the shorties - especially having to jump for the jug at the first. |
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Di 26. Sep 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Padington - mit Alistair Earley | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Had the moves right and went through it fairly easily. Climbed like a spud on the top jugs after being surprised I was there on the second go.
Really happy with this one. Love this old-school style face climbing. |
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Mo 25. Sep 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Underworld | ||||||
21 | ★ Hazzard County - mit Luciana Albuquerque | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Some thin crimpage, a bit of a dodgey second clip. Otherwise OK.
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So 24. Sep 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Jean Genie Area | ||||||
24 | ★★ Goosebumps - mit Luciana Albuquerque | 10m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Used different beta at the top. Much easier. Super gymnastic and pretty reachy, but great for the style and length.
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Sa 23. Sep 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Blowhole | ||||||
15 | ★ Clag | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Climbing with Lu on day 1 of the trip!
About as good as it gets at 15. |
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16 | ★ Blow Me | 16m, 9 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Nice. More delightful, slightly overhanging jugging.
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So 17. Sep 2017 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★ Three Men and A Ladder - mit Kurt Doherty | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Doneskis! Thought it was a long shot given it was burn 3, but made it through. Climbed very quickly through to the swing, then rested briefly, before getting through the swing and into the double knee bar rest. Took a proper recovery, then to the end without too much drama.
First 26. Even better, I legitimately got better at climbing by going through the process of working it. Happy days. Fantastic route, with some super speccy moves. |
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So 20. Aug 2017 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Tried the start until I got through it (4 goes?), then to the top. Bit of a fight, but hard to fall off after that with the plethora of kneebar options.
Great day at the crag with some grade A banter from an eclectic crew. |
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So 30. Jul 2017 - Dwarfland | ||||||
22 | FA ★ One Man's Trash | 7m, 3 | ||||
Won't go down as a mega classic, but a worthwhile little jaunt. Last difficult sequence using the scoop is great.
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22 | ★★ De Shrünkenklimb | 9m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Another lap putting up top rope for Lu. Super high gravity day, feeling super average.
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Sa 22. Jul 2017 - Dwarfland | ||||||
18 | ★ Nadir | 10m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Not too bad. Concur with Matt re: the bolting. Especially considering this is the 'warm up' here.
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22 | ★★ De Shrünkenklimb | 9m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Enjoyed it. Pretty good holds all the way ups. Lower-slider esque. Definitely not 23, maybe even soft at 22.
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Mo 3. Jul 2017 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat | 8m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Getting draws down.
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So 25. Jun 2017 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat | 8m, 5 | ||||
Warm up.
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Mo 19. Jun 2017 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat | 8m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Did it as the warm up this morning. Getting Coolum fit evidently.
Much nicer route than how I'd previously heard it described. |
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So 7. Mai 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
23 24 | ★★ Even Monsters Can Be People | 14m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
First time I've properly rested on a route and got it back - very happy on that front.
Really enjoyed this route - feels substantially longer and more of a journey than the other stuff at Lower. Just Monkey Magic and the 27 left to do. |
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Mo 1. Mai 2017 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Andromeda | ||||||
18 | ★ Graviton | 15m, 4 | ||||
Putting up top ropes for the homies.
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18 | ★ Mars | 15m, 5 | ||||
17 | ★ Horse Head Nebula | 17m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
So 23. Apr 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ A Shadow So Huge - mit Luciana Albuquerque | 8m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Being a hungover belay bitch today. Lu sent this on her 4th go! Woo.
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So 16. Apr 2017 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 4 - Graffiti Wall | ||||||
22 21 | ★★ The Electric Lavender Vacuum Cleaner | 8m, 2 | ★ Gut | |||
Packs a punch for 10 moves. Enjoyed it.
|
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23 21 | ★ Elephantiasis of the Gonads | 8m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
15 moves on this one. Basically 2 boulder problems split by a nice shake on the slot - never pulled so hard on a 23.
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Do 6. Apr 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Ancient Mariner Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★ Cowboy Clip | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Draw retrieval mission. Fun jug haul.
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Mo 3. Apr 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Jaws | 15m, 4 | ||||
Warm up.
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Fr 10. Mär 2017 - Noosa National Park | ||||||
Cook's County | ||||||
16 | ★★ Pipeline | 12m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Still really fun through the roof. First trad in yonks.
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18 | ★★ Dwarf Shortage | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Wobbly as! 0% faith in the gear. Must've been braver or more naive when I did it the first time.
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13 | ★ Moon Tan | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Seconding Big All.
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16 | ★★ Bad To The Bone | 11m | ||||
Pretty funky and step.
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Mi 23. Nov 2016 - Campo Escol Helmut Heske | ||||||
Bloco Principal | ||||||
IVsup | Sem Nome | |||||
Again, prefer routes with holds!
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V | Ideiafix | |||||
Had holds, so felt 2x easier than the slabs.
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IIIsup | Bananada | |||||
More slab.
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III | Sem Nome 2 | |||||
Friction slab practice. Bloody hard.
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III | ★ Laquinha | 6m | ||||
Actually a beautiful little flake. Would be really fun if it were a really long pitch.
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I | Acesso ao topo | |||||
First time we could get out in decent weather and could find somewhere to get in some slab practice. Very mellow day in a beautiful location.
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So 30. Okt 2016 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Desperation Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Line Of Credit | 70m, 23 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Letting Lu do her thing on the sharp end end. Good conditions once it's in the shade.
Route not as nice as I remembered. |
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Di 25. Okt 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
24 | ★ Hilltop Hoods - mit Kurt Doherty | 8m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Felt pretty casual knowing the beta and being warmed up.
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23 | ★ Talking with the Tax Man - mit Kurt Doherty | 8m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Happy with this. Haven't onsighted anything for quite a while, and I think this is the hardest I've done. The start was funky to sequence, then its just keep it together till the chains.
The rock is a bit crapola, but this and the 24 are both worthy routes imo. |
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Sa 8. Okt 2016 - North Burleigh Bouldering | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Miami Slicer | 3m | ★ Gut | |||
V3 | ★★ Dude looks like a lady | 4m | ★ Gut | |||
So 2. Okt 2016 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Caves Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Dontworry.com - mit Luciana Albuquerque | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Getting gear back for a friend. This route is really tops. It's like 3 chapters of climbing rolled into 1. The final corner felt so much less tricky than I remember.
Lu sent second shot! So proud. |
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Mi 28. Sep 2016 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Dysentery | 18m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
17 | ★ Pterodactyl D | 17m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Di 27. Sep 2016 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Madder - mit Kurt Doherty | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Found myself at the shake out before the crux before I knew what had happened. Little pep talk and pretty smooth through to the end. 4 tie ins over the last 2 weeks, and a bolt to bolt about 9 months back. Two 25's in 7 days! Yippee!
There seems to be RH and LH variant beta now without the jug that fell out, both still go at 25, but adds a bit of pump and a less solid clip. |
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Mo 26. Sep 2016 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ The Bolting Gestapo | 18m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Finishing up for Lu.
Always interesting to go back to routes that gave me huge trouble previously. |
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So 25. Sep 2016 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Dysentery | 18m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Found some way more fun, heel hook beta that makes it more direct than what I used to do. Like it more that way.
Lu sent second try - great effort. |
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Sa 24. Sep 2016 - Mt Beerwah | ||||||
Mosquito Wall | ||||||
11 | ★ Aeroguard - mit Luciana Albuquerque, Tim | 14m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This is one of the best beginner leads going around. Secure climbing on jugs, on steep enough ground that falls are perfectly safe. Shame about the carrot bolts.
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15 | ★ Tropical Strength - mit Luciana Albuquerque, Tim | 14m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
17 15 | ★ Low Irritant - mit Luciana Albuquerque, Tim | 12m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Following Lu's leads, cleaning the top rope we put up for a friend.
This has a pretty go-ey move on it - 17 for me. Lu did a great job onsighting everything. |
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15 | ★ Ava Good Weekend - mit Luciana Albuquerque, Tim | 12m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Di 20. Sep 2016 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Terminus of Desire | 15m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
3rd tie in. Not a big fight in the end, but definitely needed the beta assistance on the fly from Kurt.
First 25 - about time! Awesome first day at Flinders. |
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So 11. Sep 2016 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Slider - mit Lucas | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Warm up. Not super casual with the current lack of route fitness.
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Mi 31. Aug 2016 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
11 | ★ Play School | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Cleaning.
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10 | ★ Stonehinge | 12m, 3 | ||||
Cleaning.
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14 | ★ JAFKPR | 13m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Cleaning.
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Di 30. Aug 2016 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
14 12 | ★ JAFKPR | 13m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Guiding.
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10 | ★ Stonehinge | 12m, 3 | ||||
Guiding.
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11 | ★ Play School | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Guiding.
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So 28. Aug 2016 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
11 | ★ Play School | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Guiding.
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5 | ★ Baby Steps | 7m, 3 | Durchschnitt | |||
Guiding
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6 8 | ★ Offal | 14m, 5 | ||||
14 | ★ Spooge In A Glove | 15m, 4 | Durchschnitt | |||
Sa 27. Aug 2016 - White Rock Conservation Area | ||||||
The Board Walk | ||||||
V3 | ★★ And Better | 4m | ||||
2-3 goes. Really like it.
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V1 | ★ It Gets Better | 4m | ||||
Started low which added a tricky deadpoint.
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V2 | ★ Slap-a-crack | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Edges like a babies bum | 3m | ||||
Linked into this from stand-start at the arete.
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V1 | ★ European Cave Man | 3m | ||||
V3 | ★ Slab-n-pop | 3m | ||||
V4 | ★★ Tree Fall | 4m | ||||
Did as a stand start, but I think from the same sidepull.
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Mo 22. Aug 2016 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Insomnia | 18m, 4 | Durchschnitt | |||
Guiding. Can't believe I led this as a beginner.
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14 | ★ Gungle Gim | 18m | Durchschnitt | |||
Guiding.
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15 | ★ Bottle Stopper | 18m, 4 | Durchschnitt | |||
Guiding. First climb at KP in around a year?
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So 31. Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
11 | ★ Parsons Pleasure | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
Seconding Lu's lead.
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So 31. Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
13 | ★★ Clockwork Orange Corner | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
9 | ★ Short and Sweet | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Putting gear up for Lu to lead on.
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9 | ★ Short and Sweet | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Seconding Lu's lead.
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So 3. Jul 2016 - Waterval Boven | ||||||
Wonderland Area Hallucinogenic Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Cenotaph Corner | 9 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Would be a classic 13 corner at Frog. Wierd climbing a route like this with bolts.
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15 | Teacher's Pet | 8 | Durchschnitt | |||
Forgettable. Steep bulge where you crank on a death block straight in front of your face.
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Sa 2. Jul 2016 - Waterval Boven | ||||||
Wonderland Area Hallucinogenic Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Slim JIm | 7 | ||||
Top rope from Fat Annie for Lu, then ran up it for mileage. Wrecked! Pumpy lie backing.
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16 | ★ Last Hurrah | 7 | ★ Gut | |||
Decent easy route, but has one very cruxy, traverse move which is tricky for shorties.
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6a 18 | ★★★ Snakeskin Safari Suit | 15m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sweet. Funky crack moves and a mantle. Really fun and interesting climbing.
Fully protectable on gear - but I'm not complaining. |
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Di 28. Jun 2016 - Oudtshoorn | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
6c 22 | ★★★ Goonie-Goo-Goo | 10 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Warm up send. Still pumpy though! Doing laps on this would be fantastic training.
|
First and last route of the trip. See ya next time Bluies.