Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Gebiet | Qualität | Datum | |||
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Sport | ||||||||
9a 9a+ | ★★★ Tierra Negra | 45m, 20 | Margalef | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | ★★★ Era Vella | 45m, 20 | Margalef | Fr 23. Dez 2011 | ||||
9a+ | La Rambla | 41m, 17 | Siurana | Mi 6. Dez 2017 | ||||
9b+ leicht | Move | Flatanger | Mo 17. Jun 2019 | |||||
9a 9a+ | Beyond | Pic Saint Loup | So 26. Mai 2019 | |||||
9a+ 9a+/b | Les yeux plus gros que l'antre | 70m | Russan | Fr 11. Mai 2018 | ||||
8c+ 8c+ to 9a | Mollans culé | Mollans-sur-Ouvèze | Do 13. Feb 2014 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Moksha (Moshka) | 50m | Pic Saint Loup | Sa 9. Mai 2015 | ||||
9a | La prophétie des grenouilles | Rocher des Brumes | Do 19. Jul 2012 | |||||
9a | Roby in the sky | Les Calanques | So 17. Nov 2013 | |||||
9a | Punt'X | 20m | Gourdon Area | Fr 18. Okt 2013 | ||||
9a | ★★★ Casi mono | Courchon | Sa 5. Mai 2012 | |||||
9a+ leicht | Staphylocoque | Pic Saint Loup | Fr 11. Jul 2014 | |||||
9a | Trip Tik Tonik | Gourdon Area | Mi 10. Okt 2012 | |||||
8c+ 8c+ to 9a | Salida Del Sol | Gorges De La Dourbie | Do 15. Dez 2016 | |||||
9a | Les 3 P (PPP) | 50m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Do 5. Mai 2011 | ||||
8c+ | ★★★ San Ku Kaï (Sankukai) | Entre-les-Aygues | Fr 20. Jul 2012 | |||||
9a 9a/a+ | ★★★ Le Complexe Du Play Boy | Lourmarin | So 18. Dez 2011 | |||||
8b+ 8c | Super Samson (Super sansom) | Claret | Fr 1. Mär 2019 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Little Badder | Flatanger | Di 20. Aug 2013 | |||||
9a+ 9a/a+ | L’homme demain | 50m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Sa 27. Aug 2016 | ||||
9a | A muerte Bilou | 50m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Sa 29. Aug 2015 | ||||
9a | ★★ Ciudad de Dios | 25m | Santa Linya | Do 2. Mär 2017 | ||||
9a+ | ★★★ Pachamama | 50m | Oliana | Mi 6. Mär 2019 | ||||
9a+ 8c+ | ★★★ José Pine Le Gardien Dans La Cave (La Madone) | Lourmarin | So 20. Mai 2012 | |||||
9a+ | ★★★ Papichulo | 45m | Oliana | Do 18. Apr 2019 | ||||
9a | La terza età (la terza eta) | 35m | Camaiore | Sa 28. Okt 2017 | ||||
9a+ | La côte d’usure (La côte d'usure) | 60m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Sa 15. Sep 2018 | ||||
9a+ leicht | ★★★ Thor's Hammer | Flatanger | Fr 22. Jul 2016 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Promotion canne à pêche (Promotion canne à pêche) | 50m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2011 | ||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | ★★★ Esclatamàsters (Esclatamasters) | 40m | Perles | Sa 29. Dez 2012 | ||||
9b | Mamichula | Oliana | Mo 15. Apr 2019 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Pajarito (Parejito) | 40m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mi 30. Jul 2014 | ||||
9a | Mandanga Total (La Mandanga total) | 50m | Villanueva del Rosario | Fr 22. Apr 2016 | ||||
9a | Super Finale | Rawyl | Do 25. Apr 2019 | |||||
9a | ★★ La Novena Enmienda (Novena enmienda) | 50m | Santa Linya | Sa 21. Jan 2017 | ||||
9a 9a/a+ | Mangarbo | Villanueva del Rosario | Di 24. Mai 2016 | |||||
9a 9a/a+ | Definición De Resistencia Demócrata (Définition de resistencia democrata) | Terradets | Do 16. Mär 2017 | |||||
9a+ 9a+/b | Chilam Balam | 82m | Villanueva del Rosario | Do 21. Mai 2015 | ||||
9a 9a/a+ | ★★★ Le Play Boy Rôde Sans Complexe | 50m | Lourmarin | Sa 25. Apr 2015 | ||||
9a 8c+ | ★★ Le Complexe Adipeux Intégral (Moutchiki Extension) | 45m | Lourmarin | Do 18. Sep 2014 | ||||
8c+ 8c | ★ Lily’s Eyes (Lily’s Eye) | 60m | Datça | Mo 10. Dez 2018 | ||||
9a | ★★★ Perfect Man 2.0 | 20m | Val Pennavaire | So 5. Nov 2017 | ||||
9b 9b/b+ | La Rage d’Adam | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mi 4. Sep 2019 | |||||
7b+ 8c | Hosanna | 160m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 10. Sep 2019 | ||||
9a+ | No Pain No Gain | 40m | Rodellar | Di 5. Nov 2019 | ||||
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9a 9a/a+ | De battre mon coeur s'est arrêté | 50m | Rodellar | So 3. Nov 2019 | ||||
9b 9a+/b | Patanics | 60m | Rodellar | Di 29. Okt 2019 | ||||
Nothing will perturb a climbing trip !
It started with a car broken on the road, continued with huge rain and wet project, to finish with a piece of metal in the eye...
Yet we will be here until the end . I fell on the last move of this route on my second day. I was thinking to be able to do it with one more climbing day. Then came the rain and everything was wet. I was hoping that the route get dry quickly. Yet, it's still wet now. I had to reorganize my betas in the wet sequences. I finaly find something ok when I got a piece of metal (quickdraw?) on my eye. I went to emergency, and specialist who remove the metal and told me to keep a patch on the eye during two days (picture 2). I tried climbing with only one eye, yet it was impossible to do 7b... I finally decided to remove the patch for a try in Patanics, and it was the good one . About the grade question, I am thinking it can't be 9b if I compare to my last realizations (Mamichula, Move, and La rage d'Adam). For me it feels closer to 9a/+. Yet the route is 100% my style, that's why my opinion is to propose a downgrade to a 9a+. But it's my opinion, and I am open to discuss with next repetitors.
Now on to next projects
via Instagram |
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9a+ 9a | Detectives | 50m | Rodellar | Fr 18. Okt 2019 | ||||
It's for me the best line in this grade in Rodellar.
I did it yesterday, second go on the first day of this trip. I tried it 4 years ago without success.
But I think the story of this first day of the trip makes this send more spicy.
The night before yesterday I broke my car on the way to Rodellar. Stuck on the road I had two option : take care of the car or leave the car on the road and going anyway to Rodellar. It took me two seconds to decide the second option.
I knew that friends were going there and I joined them in their van. We will take care of the car later . Thanks thomas_staudenmeyer and julia.cassou for the hospitality .
We took the rain during the morning going in Picineta sector. It was a bad start, yet it was a good end .
Now on to the other projects before the Big rain if tommorow.
via Instagram |
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9a | Abysse | Gourdon Area | Mo 17. Sep 2012 | |||||
9a+ | Kmira | Pic Saint Loup | Jul 2015 | |||||
9a+ | Joe Mama | Oliana | Fr 7. Feb 2020 | |||||
9a+ | ★ Catxasa | Santa Linya | So 9. Feb 2020 | |||||
9a | Legend | Pic Saint Loup | Fr 16. Jun 2017 | |||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | La Folle Histoire Immonde | Le Thaurac | Jan 2019 | |||||
8c+ | Cochon tendu | Mollans-sur-Ouvèze | Feb 2020 | |||||
8c | La dent de rouquin | Mollans-sur-Ouvèze | Feb 2020 | |||||
8c | L’attracteur étrange | Mollans-sur-Ouvèze | Feb 2020 | |||||
9a | Legend | Jura Vaudois | 2017 | |||||
9a | Bulle d'air | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | So 8. Mär 2020 | |||||
8c+ | Fusion lactique | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Feb 2020 | |||||
8c+ | Premier de cornée | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Mi 8. Mai 2019 | |||||
8c+ | Paix à son âme | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Fr 7. Jun 2019 | |||||
9a+ | ★★★ Biographie | 40m | Céüse | Sa 13. Jun 2020 | ||||
8b | Les Braves Gens ne Courent pas les Rues | 30m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mai 2020 | ||||
8c | Bohemian Symphony Extension | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mo 27. Jul 2020 | |||||
First FA of the season on the Ramirole 🤙. It was an "end of day" project : Bohemian symphony extension. It could be around 8c. I was close to do my warm up project too, falling on the last move... Next one
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9a+ | La moustache qui fâche | Entre-les-Aygues | Fr 28. Aug 2020 | |||||
9a | Le goût du sang | Vercors | Di 1. Sep 2020 | |||||
8c 8c/c+ | Challenge côte d'or | Vercors | Mo 31. Aug 2020 | |||||
8c 8c/c+ | La traînée rousse | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mi 5. Aug 2020 | |||||
9b 9b/b+ | Beyond Integral | 50m | Pic Saint Loup | Do 22. Okt 2020 | ||||
9a | Hugh | 20m | Les Eaux-Claires | Fr 30. Okt 2020 | ||||
9a | Akira - mit Lucien Martinez | 20m | Grotte de Vilhonneur | Sa 21. Nov 2020 | ||||
Seb via Insta: "Akira is a legendary piece from the 90's. This route was the first 9b / 5.15b world proposition by Fred Rouhling in 1995. At the time, 9a+ didn't even exist yet. It was a big step for our community."
He told climbing.com: "About the grade, we are thinking this one a bit easier than the number announced," Bouin wrote. "We had the impression to climb a 9a [5.14d] route. It's hard to speak about grade on this historical piece, but we need to be honest." |
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9a | ★★ De l’autre Côté du Ciel | 20m | Les Eaux-Claires | Mo 23. Nov 2020 | ||||
9a+ | Les Gardes Fous | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Feb 2021 | |||||
8c+ | Oppression | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Feb 2021 | |||||
9a | La tête dans le guidon | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Apr 2021 | |||||
FFA
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8c+ | Guerre future | Claret | So 9. Jan 2022 | |||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | Les Mythes aux Logis (Axe d'aile version longue) | Tautavel | Do 11. Nov 2021 | |||||
9a | Comité d'accueil | Séranon | Mi 19. Jan 2022 | |||||
9c | DNA | Les Gorges du Verdon | Fr 29. Apr 2022 | |||||
9a+ | Thor's Hammer P2 | 25m | Flatanger | Mo 11. Jul 2022 | ||||
after 9 tries
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9b 9b/b+ | Nordic Marathon | 130m | Flatanger | Do 21. Jul 2022 | ||||
9a+ 9a+/b | Change L1 | 55m | Flatanger | Jul 2022 | ||||
9b+ | Change | 55m | Flatanger | Fr 5. Aug 2022 | ||||
5.15b | Knieprotektor Jumbo Love | 80m | Clark Mountain | Mi 19. Okt 2022 | ||||
5.15c | Suprême Jumbo Love | 70m | Clark Mountain | Mi 2. Nov 2022 | ||||
FA
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8b | FA Tensao Nuclear | Atlântida | Jan 2023 | |||||
8c | FA Nessum Dorma — 2 Versuche | Atlântida | Jan 2023 | |||||
9a leicht | ★★★ Filipinos | 18m | Meio Mango | Jan 2023 | ||||
9a/a+ | FA Mar de Bering | Meio Mango | Do 26. Jan 2023 | |||||
9a+/b | FA Rei de Bering | Meio Mango | Jan 2023 | |||||
9a | FA Guère de Bruit | Claret | Di 24. Jan 2023 | |||||
8c | FA La direct du JIP | 48m | Gorges du Tarn | Feb 2023 | ||||
8c+ | FA No Spain no Gain | Russan | Feb 2023 | |||||
8c+ | FA Captain quook’s | Russan | Feb 2023 | |||||
9a | FA Gold Thaurac | Le Thaurac | Do 24. Mär 2022 | |||||
9a+ | FA Myr | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Mo 7. Mär 2022 | |||||
9a | FA A quelques mètres de la légalité | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Mo 24. Mai 2021 | |||||
8c+ | FA Vision Remains | Abella de la Conca | So 6. Feb 2022 |
via Instagram