Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fr 19. Apr 2024 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Sedgies Buttress | ||||||
27 | ★★ Offhand Comment - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Only had an onsight go. Felt like I would get it next attempt but I had bigger fish to try this trip.
|
||||||
Fr 19. Apr 2024 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Campsite Buttress & Pinnacle | ||||||
30 | ★★★ Thrasher - mit Hannah Rose | 35m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Another dream climb to return for. Did all the moves but there is a seriously epic boulder problem near the top. So stoked I could try it.
|
||||||
Di 16. Apr 2024 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Campsite Buttress & Pinnacle | ||||||
30 | ★★★ Firetail — 2 Versuche - mit Hannah Rose | 35m, 6 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Day 3, did all 3 cruxes with 3 sits/falls.
|
||||||
23 | ★★★ Dildo Direct - mit Hannah Rose | 15m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
30 | ★★★ Firetail — 3 Versuche - mit Hannah Rose | 35m, 6 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
2 sessions so far. Have done all but the first crux. Might not have the route fittness to finish it off in the last 3 days of the trip. So glad to be on this dream route of mine though.
|
||||||
19 ~18 |
★★★ Adventures in Paradise
1
2
| 85m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Di 9. Apr 2024 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Campsite Buttress & Pinnacle | ||||||
27 leicht | ★★★ Hook, Line and Sinker Direct - mit Hannah Rose | 35m, 2 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Seriously had to work for the 2nd day flash on this masterpiece of rock. Trad climbing doesn't get better. Steep, perfect rock, long, and I had to power scream on the last move because I didn't have good beta. Bloody fun day out.
|
||||||
So 7. Apr 2024 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Campsite Buttress & Pinnacle | ||||||
27 leicht | ★★★ Hook, Line and Sinker Direct — 2 Versuche - mit Hannah Rose | 35m, 2 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Onsite go ended predictably at the crux. Has to be close to the best route of the grade in Aus. Insanely spoogy today but did the moves and sorted some sequences and gear. Don't quite have the crux dialed. Hopefully next session.
|
||||||
Mi 28. Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Frew's Flutes | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Breathing Space - mit Fraser | 80m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Whent out to give it a suss on top rope. First lap felt okay with a few sits and 2nd lap did it clean. It just goes and goes and goes and goes. Super fun day out. What could be better than toproping one of the best routes in the country and spending time up at the Ben with a friend!
|
||||||
Sa 10. Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Frew's Flutes | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Wizard — 2 Versuche - mit Hannah Rose | 45m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
A magic line. Not quite as hard as I was expecting, but the gear might be where some extra difficulty comes in. 2 laps, 4 sits on the 2nd lap. So long!
|
||||||
So 28. Jan 2024 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas Pubic Flash | ||||||
25 ~26 | ★★ Obi Wan Kenobi — 3 Versuche - mit Hannah Rose, deano, anne | 17m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Absolutely on the whole way, the first bolt is really hard to clip and the 2nd seems pretty high and dangerous. Cool layback finger intense movements
|
||||||
So 28. Jan 2024 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta - mit Hannah Rose, Edie Burns | 90m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Edie's first day at the ben and first multipitch. Climbed on only hexes.
|
||||||
Mi 27. Dez 2023 - Fortescue Bay | ||||||
Fortescue Bay Crag | ||||||
18 | ★ Thank Christ For Bass Strait - mit Hannah Rose | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
17 | ★★ Kelpie - mit Hannah Rose | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Mi 27. Dez 2023 - Fortescue Bay | ||||||
The Totem Pole | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Deep Play - mit Hannah Rose | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
25 |
★★★ The Free Route P2
- mit
Hannah Rose
2
25
40m
| 40m, 8 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
One fall. Unbelievable day out. Weather was sublime, my family came to watch, the route is so beautiful, and there were no hiccups. Felt like a breeze shame about the fall but it did not take away from the experience at all.
|
||||||
Mi 27. Dez 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Digitalis - mit Hannah Rose | 62m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Linked into a 60m pitch. Did the left finish which was great. Need to try some of the bolted routes at this crag
|
||||||
Mi 6. Dez 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 - mit Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
Mi 6. Dez 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10a ~5.10b | ★★ Screaming at the Moon - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Linked the 2 pitches. Was an excellent last route of the trip!
|
||||||
5.12b | Yellow Brick Road Rage - mit Hannah Rose | 35m, 5 | ||||
Fell above the 2nd bolt and back cleaned back to the anchor.
|
||||||
5.11- | ★★ Zhoulei's Flake - mit Hannah Rose | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Di 5. Dez 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.13d | ★★★ The Firewall - mit Hannah Rose | 78m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Reason 644 to return to China. Unreal! Repeated the first two pitches to check out the amazing P3. About 5.12- to a good rest half way, then the angle kicks back even more and the jams get consistently thinner. It tests every size thoroughly from 2-.3 with at least 2m of each size. I did all the moves but would need to improve my technique in .75. The pump would be all time by the fingers section where the feet run out. Definitely a dream route!
|
||||||
Sa 2. Dez 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.13d |
★★★ The Honeycomb Dome
- mit
Jia Yo
1
5.12+
25
Vorstieg durch
Patrick Munnings
Trying to be as efficient as possible I sat at one cam at the start.
2
5.13d
20
Vorstieg durch
Patrick Munnings
Another insane pitch of rock climbing. Aided about 2/3 of the pitch but was amazing to check it out. Reason no. 634 to return to China | 45m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
5.8 |
★★ Sword Ladder
- mit
Jia Yo
1
5.8
2
5.8
| 60m | ★ Gut | |||
Do 30. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10 | ★★ Highway to Hell - mit Hannah Rose | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mo 27. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.12+ |
★★★ Another World
- mit
Hannah Rose
1
5.12+
| 45m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Climbed with the first piece pre-placed from an earlier attempt falling at the crux. The best crack pitch of my life so far. Exposed, powerful and varied. Was an incredibly desperate send and nearly pumped out in multiple places. So good!
|
||||||
5.8 | ★★ Sword Ladder - mit Hannah Rose | 60m | ★ Gut | |||
Installed glue in anchors on all three pitches, repeated to access Honeycomb Dome
|
||||||
5.12c/d schwer | ★★★ Curse of the Rainshed — 5 Versuche - mit Hannah Rose | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Felt good to put this away at the end of a hard session on Another World. My absolute anti-style but super fun and very unique.
|
||||||
Mo 27. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Wind of the Valley - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
So 26. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.12+ |
★★★ Another World
- mit
David, Pim
1
5.12+
20m
| 20m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
The new best pitch of crack climbing I have done in my life, steep tight hands, amazing snaking shape of the crack, variety of moves and such an exposed position 😜
|
||||||
5.8 |
★★ Sword Ladder
- mit
Hannah Rose
1
5.8
2
5.8
3
5.8
| 60m | ||||
Linked all three pitches to rig a fixed line and access Another World
|
||||||
Fr 24. Nov 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | ||||||
Bai Yan Si 白岩寺 | ||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Allegory of the Caves 洞穴寓言
- mit
Hannah Rose, Håkon and Sarah
1
5.10a
28m
2
5.10c
30m
3
5.10d
33m
4
5.11c
30m
5
5.7
40m
6
5.7
40m
7
5.10b
25m
8
5.8
23m
9
5.11b
32m
10
5.10a
26m
11
5.8
31m
12
5.7
35m
13
5.9
35m
14
5.9
33m
15
5.8
35m
16
5.6
40m
17
5.5
25m
| 540m, 14 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
A wonderful two days climbing to the summit of Bai Yan Si. The route is very approachable and route finding was fairly common sense. Stoked to spend the night in the cave at pitch 12 and play some cards and drink too much baiju. The altitude made me work pretty hard and climbing with a pack meant the hard free moves were not so approachable. Pulled on one draw at the crux of both hard pitches. Was a memorable adventure with wonderful company.
|
||||||
Do 23. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.12 | ★★★ Ding Dong’s Crack - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sublime! Fought hard and beat the bloody ringlocks.
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★ Pineapple Upside-down Cake - mit Hannah Rose | 16m | ||||
So 19. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.11c | IL Mignolo Col Prof - mit Hannah Rose | 16m | Vergiss es | |||
Dirty and not so great rock. Moves were good. The anchor was super sketchy
|
||||||
5.12 | ★★★ Ding Dong’s Crack - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Turns out I can't really ringlock. Will try again.
|
||||||
5.9 | ★ Apple Crumble - mit Hannah Rose | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Do 16. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
5.10d ~5.11a | Orange Crush - mit Hannah Rose | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
Moves were cool, but the rock was a bit ordinary.
|
||||||
5.10d | FangBanMian - mit Hannah Rose | 25m, 4 | Vergiss es | |||
Mi 15. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13c/d PG - R schwer | ★★★ Air China — 2 Versuche - mit Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
OMG unexpected, but first lead attempt I climbed this better than ever and flowed to the top. So happy to come away with this tick from an amazing time in China. Huge thanks to Hannah for the belay / hiking efforts.
|
||||||
Di 14. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 守护者 The Guardian | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ The Gift (Left Variation) - mit Hannah Rose | 26m | ||||
Right variation full pitch, harder than it looks.
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Eagle eyed Super Hawk - mit Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
The most wild move I've done outside of a climbing gym. A wall run to a jug on an arete and then beautiful climbing to the top. Sick!!
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ Brazen Hussie - mit Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Also great. One long pitch.
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sahara - mit Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Super quality.
|
||||||
So 12. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 守护者 The Guardian | ||||||
5.11d |
★★ The Sphinx
- mit
Hannah Rose
1
5.11d
2
5.10d
| 40m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Rad, tricky offwidthing just after turning a roof. Linked the two pitches for more goodness. Some awkward sizes.
|
||||||
5.11 ~5.11+ | ★★★ Akhum Rah - mit Hannah Rose | 27m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Super quality, interesting and sustained long pitch of thin climbing
|
||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Flight of The Locusts (half) — 2 Versuche - mit Hannah Rose | 15m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
great technical straight in fingers
|
||||||
5.11- | ★★ Wing and a Prayer - mit Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Cool roof sequence and some interesting movement of various styles the whole way.
|
||||||
Sa 11. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
假日区 The Holidays 四季区 Four Seasons Area | ||||||
5.11+ |
★★ I'll Be Your Huckleberry
1
5.10d
20
2
5.11+
30
| 50m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Would be a classic if the rock quality was better. Quite flakey. A 50m pitch with all sorts of sizes and techniques. It definitely beat me with two sits in the offwidth. Climbed in one pitch.
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★ International House of Pancakes | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Excellent quality, bit short and definitely scary with a runout that gets close to groundfall potential.
|
||||||
Sa 11. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 五彩岩 Painted Wall | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Not Too Far From the Border Corner - mit Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Excellent, however, full layback pitches are kind of not so exciting. If it was longer and pumpier it might have added some interest but pretty much the same move the whole way.
|
||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Symphonie de Liberte - mit Hannah Rose | 35m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Amazing hard corner climbing. Did not free the bolted section due to not identifying a single hold or body position. After this the rock and climbing is absolutely tops.
|
||||||
Di 7. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | ||||||
5.11+ | ★★ I Don’t Like Chickens - mit Hannah Rose | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.8 | ★★ Through the Looking Glass - mit Hannah Rose | 14m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Di 7. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.11 | ★★★ Dungeons and Dragons - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ||||
Whipped from the overhanging offwidth trying to manage my rope.
|
||||||
5.10 | ★★ Dancing with Dragons - mit Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Awesome
|
||||||
5.13c/d PG - R schwer | ★★★ Air China — 2 Versuche - mit Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Broke the best hold off the route today making the easier start a grade or two harder. Worked out better beta for the start and the crux. Next session might be on lead.
|
||||||
So 5. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13c/d PG - R schwer | ★★★ Air China - mit Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Another working session. This time in the morning, placing gear and trailing a rope. One fall at the crux. Not warmed up.
|
||||||
5.11+ |
★★★ Back to the Primitive
- mit
Hannah Rose
1
5.8
20m
2
5.11+
20m
3
5.10
18m
4
5.10+
30m
5
5.11-
32m
6
5.9
10m
7
5.10+
28m
8
5.9
25m
| 180m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Linked p2&3 and 6&7. An awesome outing but the descent down the Spearhead gully was a serious adventure.
|
||||||
Sa 4. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 - mit Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Repeat for toprope
|
||||||
Sa 4. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Over the Rainbow - mit Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Got inverted well and was making progress but could not get past a cam and then slipped out of a no hands rest upside down 🙃. The hand crack at the end is much harder than I expected as well
|
||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Dirt Devil - mit Hannah Rose | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Seriously fun with a solid 8m of butterfly stacks and knee locks
|
||||||
Do 2. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13 ~5.12+ | ★★ The Unimaginable Corner - mit Hannah Rose | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Not for me but thought I'd check ot out.
|
||||||
Do 2. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Welcome to Liming - mit Hannah Rose | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Squeeze chimney fun!
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl - mit Hannah Rose | 28m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fantastic and interesting jamming, so good.
|
||||||
Do 2. Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12 R | ★ Cracker - mit Hannah Rose | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Insanely hard and gear is terrible, needs a good clean.
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★ Staircase of the Elves - mit Hannah Rose | 10m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Awesome but short
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★★ The Funky Dan - mit Hannah Rose | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fell again at the crux. Felt really good up to there but never found good beta for one foot move. Then went to the top
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sandworm - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.13c/d PG - R schwer | ★★★ Air China — 2 Versuche - mit Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Worked out gear and it's pretty bomber but scary.
Next session I got two low points. One from the start of the crux and then straight after, another from the rest before the hard climbing. Getting so psyched
|
||||||
So 29. Okt 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ The Reckoning-half 终审判决第一段 | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Wish the top crack was longer
|
||||||
5.10+ ~5.11- | ★★ Boy with a Coin | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Great climbing. Got to do some long sections of butterfly stacks!
|
||||||
So 29. Okt 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ The Funky Dan - mit Hannah Rose | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Had a very good onsight attempt. Came close but didn't think funky enough with my beta. Might try again when I recover from this attempt
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sandworm - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.11 R ~5.11+ | ★★★ Saxion Edge - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Serious business. 4 Chech style ring bolts in 25m. Some big runout on insecure moves with a hint of moss and grime. Unfortunately the logbook at the summit was installed upside down by the last climber and filled with water. I brought the case and book back down to try and dry it out.
|
||||||
5.13c/d PG - R schwer | ★★★ Air China - mit Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Climbed in two overlapping sections. One through the crux and past the bolt, and then from the bolt to the top twice. Piecing it together. Will start to play with some gear next
|
||||||
Fr 27. Okt 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13c/d PG - R schwer | ★★★ Air China - mit Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Worked out all the beta but about 4 sections between hangs
|
||||||
Di 24. Okt 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
黑怕哈米 Heibahami | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Smiley Glad Hands with Hidden Agendas - mit Hannah Rose | 30m, 2 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Di 24. Okt 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.11+ |
★★★ The Firewall
- mit
Hannah Rose
2
5.11+
33m
Vorstieg durch
Patrick Munnings
Comfortably the single best pitch of crack climbing I've ever done. Slightly overhanging the whole way, with all sizes from fingers to fists. But the sections of marathon #2 and #3 were so epic! Hopefully I can come back and play on the top pitch too. | 53m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
5.10a |
★★★ Soul’s Awakening
- mit
Hannah Rose
1
5.9
28m
Awesome! Such quality crack climbing and the bolts are well considered also.
2
5.10a
8m
8 bolts in 8m skipped 6 of them | 36m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5.10+ | ★★ The Forgotten Line - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A bit dirty and nerve racking pulling on some blocks. Really fun with some solid overhanging fist jamming
|
||||||
So 22. Okt 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ The Warm up - mit Hannah Rose | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Pretty hard for the grade I think
|
||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Japanese Cowboy - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Whipped while my head was pressed against the anchor. Could not find a clipping stance even after another 5 tries. Such a grovelly and unpleasant finish to a mega classic pitch of beautiful steep jamming
|
||||||
5.12c/d schwer | ★★★ Curse of the Rainshed - mit Hannah Rose | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
No cigar today as well but got the beta sorted. One fall on the slippery no hands traverse
|
||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Equator - mit Hannah Rose | 63m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Super climbing. Some scary moments on the arete feel like you could damage your rope if you fall. Varied and hard climbing the whole way
|
||||||
5.12c/d schwer | ★★★ Curse of the Rainshed - mit Hannah Rose | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Amazing! An absolute antistyle for me but incredibly fun movement.
|
||||||
Do 19. Okt 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12a/b | ★★ Morass and The Balance of Power Extension - mit Hannah Rose | 35m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Could not be more different to the first half of the route, delicate, powerful and flexible climbing on mostly imaginary footholds.
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5.10c | ★★ Morass - mit Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Varied and interesting
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5.11b | ★★★ Clam Digger - mit Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Unreal. Strange how doing the same move over and over again for 25m can be so much fun. An absolute thrashing for my right leg and some serious fatigue but stoked to have done it! Probably never again
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5.13c/d PG - R schwer | ★★★ Air China - mit Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Amazing hard arete climbing. Will be spicy but safe and I am psyched to give this a few sessions. did all the moves but had some rope help on two of them.
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Mi 18. Okt 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | ||||||
5.11- | ★★ The Raven (full) - mit Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Some really bizarre moves. Actually quite weird the whole way. Harder than it looks but really cool
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Mi 18. Okt 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ The Reckoning-half 终审判决第一段 - mit Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fell after the crux rushing an off balance move. Easy steep perfect finger crack to the top from there
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5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Absolutely classic. Beautiful line, cool position and perfect climbing
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Mi 18. Okt 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10+ schwer | ★★ Faraway Corner | 15m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Unreal rock and line. Gets easier as you go. So good
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Mi 18. Okt 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 死亡天文台 Die Sternwarte | ||||||
5.10+ schwer | ★★ The Squall - mit Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Possibly my hardest fight for an onsight to date (which isn't filling me with confidence for the rest of our time here). The route was also dirty as it probably hasn't been climbed in many years and has seen some heavy rain. Slid back down the offwidth section multiple times before somehow making it through. then what should have been an easy hand and fist crack to the anchor was an absolute suffer fest where I almost hyperventilated and fainted. I couldn't remember what gear I had placed or how far it was below me. Wanted to give up and sit the whole time but somehow didn't. I could not climb again for the rest of the day. hopefully more of this to come!
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5.10- ~5.10 | ★★★ Captain Spaceman Spiff - mit Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Was dirty, meaning I had to squeeze extra hard on the long sections of .75 and 1. Thumb got a serious workout, and I could have used another .75 because I had about a 6m runout above the half way ledge. Top section was really fun. Felt stiff for a large hand climber.
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So 1. Okt 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
双洞村 | ||||||
5.12a R | ★★★ 大疣蛛科 - mit Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
I had such a great time with this route. Spent 2 rest days cleaning and working out the logistics for this ascent. A deep water solo above a small pool, continuing into a spicy long steep tufa maze and finally the huge tree anchor at the finish ledge. The route was begging to be climbed but demanded lots of effort be put into making it happen. Thanks so much to Hannah for suffering through the belay process, it was probably as scary as the climb itself. What a memorable experience to FA this route!
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Di 19. Sep 2023 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 中指峰 Middle Finger | ||||||
5.10d schwer |
★★★ Pluto
- mit
Jackie
1
5.10d
45m
2
5.10d
45m
| 90m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Trad Climbing! In Yangshuo! This route has obviously not been climbed in many years, however is very good quality. Two consistently difficult, interesting, varied, intimidating and looong pitches. Absolutely worth doing, but I also think I do't want to do much more trad climbing here hahaha. The route would be better with some vegetation clearing and replacement of tat on the anchors.
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Fr 14. Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Cock Crack - mit Hannah Rose | 38m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Awesome route! quality the whole way.
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Mi 12. Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral - mit Hannah Rose | 45m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Thought this was an onsight but I already did that hahaha
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