Routes in Africa for selected grade

The leftmost route on u-bolts with a thin start.

Rap down 200m along from the ab-in routes at 'The gym'. Some top bolts are found 25m before reaching the Time Bomb Block. Use the chains to ab to a stance slightly left. Enjoy the view. A fine rap-bolting affair.

Shares bolt 1 and chains with 'Mr Jive'. Stay out of the corner.

Fun route, also very reachy. 6m left of the corner.

Climb the previous crack to the top of the pillar. Step right to a good crack. Climb this to lower offs

A hardish move through the groove near the ground.

The smooth-looking slab 15m down from 'Rock Island'. Not too tough for the grade.

Starts off the left hand edge of a wide ledge (facing west) up the blunt arête about 20m right of 'Wizards'. Bolt hangers on top. Exposed belay.

The crack in the middle of the west face. You can also use some bolts on 'No Crack Crooking'.

Climb the face just left of the arête.

Stay on the arête through overlap.

The old trad line that now has bolts thanks to Chris.

This climb is on the trail, 30m before the main crag is reached. Climbs the buttress just before a step leading up to the gulley.

The first pitch of 'Tried to Go to Heaven...' . Climb the crack to lower-offs at a ledge. Don't blow the 3rd clip.

The open book. A bolted trad-like classic.

45m along from the last routes of 'The Coven'. About 2m left of the arête on the middle tower. Sort of runout at the crux.

Follow path 15m down. Climb the South-East face of the North Tower.

The seam 2m right of 'Rip', using anything. Climb only the seam for a somewhat more specific exercise.

Starts up 'Madiba Magic' and trends left after about 3 bolts. The finish up into BSDD is brilliant and sustained – so conserve energy!

Starts 10m right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag.

Just right of 'Madiba Magic'.

An obvious crack 20m right of the WB gully. The route is about 35m long.

Climb the corner 2m left of 'Dust From A Distant Sun', bypass overhang on left and scamper up slab through overlap to top.

The obvious crack on the freestanding pillar left of 'Vicious Fishies'. Watch out for loose rock.

The short but good-looking corner left of the arête project.

Situated on the main wall on the south side of the Happy Acres Boulder. The obvious flake line left of the chimney.

Start a few metres right of 'Easy Street' and climb the right break on the prominent wall.

On the far left of the crag, past the 'Coming of Pride' pinnacle there is an obvious in a gully crack (on the right when looking down the gully).

Start left around the corner and up the recess from 'Wizard Of Oz'. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. Climb this onto the arete halfway up. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up.

Takes the corner right of the steep cracks on the obvious overhanging wall. Climb left towards anchors on the headwall.

Start 8m right of 'In My Place' in a corner. Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds, move right to the arête and climb to top. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top.

On the right hand arete of the main face just to the right of EDN. Rap down to hanging belay.

Just to the left of POC. A tricky start. Don't fumble the third bolt.

In the middle of the face there is a fist size hole (good for a jam). Angles to the right – don’t go onto MY on the left.

4m left of DOTW. Climb straight up to a small roof. Do not go right – the crux is to go straight across with a layback on your left hand.

The route is situated about 20m to the left of the chain ascend on the far right of the 50m abseil crag (facing the crag). The first section of the climb requires a tricky lay-back. The second crux move is to get off the large ledge 2/3 up on the route and then the last crux move is to reach a loose chock stone at the second-last bolt. Climbers and spectators be weary, the chock stone seems a bit dodgy...

Sit start by pockets, left up to pinch before the shelf - top out.

The slightly hidden route next to the slightly overhanging orange face. Easy with the crux at the top.

To the right of 'Dusty Hole' starts on the lower section of the base. The route is long, tie a knot in the end of the rope.

Right most route of the crag after the 5th bolt go right to traverse for 4 bolts the head back left over bulge towards chains.

A short fun route. Start on a sloped section follow up and over a bulge to chains.

Retrobolted in Dec 2021

Old bolts, likely to be retrobolted.

Start at the base of the blocky corner to the right of Running on Empty.  Climb up the corner to a good rest.  Move a little left then up to a thin rail and then directly up the dark brown streak. Exit to the left on the clean rock.

• The left exit is easy, a consistent at the grade exit is to head straight for the distinct break in the overhang. There is a direct version starting up the initial short slab and small roofs (with convenient jugs) to the left of the corner. Continue as per the normal version or keep it a separate line by going left of the lichen patch about 3 m left of the Cowgirl crux bulge. Commonly top-roped as pro for the top half (and bottom half of direct version) is sparse. 22m

Climbs the crack up the obvious openbook around the corner from the grassy ledge.  Above the route is a tree with a rock embedded in a fork.  This makes a handy abseil point to reach the ledge.

• Fantastic route – good protection. Best start is from ground 1m to right of large crack using a layback crack up to a big ledge. 22m

Start five metres to the right of Enema at the foot of a small recess. The letters 'AJ' are painted in yellow at the start. Climb up for five metres and then move left into a small recess with a crack. Move around the bulge above and then left to a small ledge. Finish slightly left up the nose.

This line takes the obvious bottomless recess above the ledge. Climb the obvious corner and move out right to rest on the nose. Step left onto two "stepping stones" and then climb up into the bottomless open book, where the quality of the rock improves. Follow the recess to the top.

A difficult take-off is followed by easier climbing. Start five metres right of Flabbergasp. Climb through a bulge to a ledge and then right onto a block. Climb up to the base of a crack and exit up the nose.

Start at a small tree three metres to the right of Hightime. Move up to a large ledge, up the big recess and follow the curving crack to another recess. Exit left.