Routes in Africa for selected grade

Up slab with pockets under small roof, up the shallow groove (upper part with plants in groove), straight up over small wall to the big ledge on the left side, from ledge to cracks trending right to top.

Straight up wall with pockets to ledge (bold), climb small wall, follow groove trending left, crack up to top.

The original way to the summit. Really only one pitch of climbing, the rest is an easy solo if comfortable with exposure. There is 2 fixed hand made pegs that look to be from original ascent. Start on the NE side of Jebal Take North. scramble up broken slabs to reach a ledge with a left facing corner for a long 60m pitch. Then continue up to a plateau and cross to Jebal Taka main summit. Wander up the face following faint crack lines left then right.

Oystein, the Norwegian first ascensionist abandoned this climb below the final ledge on a couple of nuts. Today, the most popular trad route at AG. Note there are two sets of anchors at the top of P1, one for toproping or lowering if just doing the first pitch and another 5m higher for setting up the second pitch. P2 is well worth your time with lovely cracks, protection and movement.

The best for its grade and the most climbed route at AG. Hospitable, playful and friendly, like most habeshas.

Get up Easy Eshi first pitch, but belay at the second anchor on a nice ledge (past some grass) Straight up to the top of the wall.

Climb up and over to the higher left- trending crack, then up a thin ramp to the first bolt. Another bolt and then the anchors. Galatoma means thank-you in the Oromifa language.

It has to be admitted that this is a little short on pro, but it is excellent and the few who have led it say provided it is approached with calm and stealth, the need for pro is secondary. Begin 6m right of Bandstand and climb easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. From here up directly to distinct grey ledge at 6m. Awkward move left 1.5m, then up 3m before trending rightwards until directly beneath obvious bulging wall. Straight up bulge (crux), and steep wall above 7.5m to prominent groove. From this point pro is excellent. Climb groove and slightly left to mantleshelf move just below top. Finish up steep wall rightwards on good holds. 2020 edit: It turns out the need for pro wasn't secondary for some - somewhere around 2000 a bolted anchor was added at the grey ledge, with 3 more bolts on the second pitch - the first just above the awkward move left and up and the next two spaced out above.

Start at foot of face to right of main slab in open groove.

1. 26m. Climb to the cave belay.

2. From the cave belay. From belay move up leftwards to horizontal break and traverse 3m to foot of steep wall. Climb this direct to recess just below overhang. Traverse left 2m to a point below obvious large rightwards pointing flake, and surmount overhang (crux) just right of this. Step left when possible and up to top of cliff.

From cave belay move up left to brown streak in groove. Climb this direct to steep brown-coloured wall. Up this with ease to overhang. The overhang is split by a prominent narrow ledge, which is gained from the left. Bolt. Move up trending rightwards to top of the cliff.

One of Lukenia's best with a ripper finish. Step left from belay and straight up wall on right of brown streak passing a good thread belay/flake at 12m. Above is a bulging yellow wall which is surmounted from the left by a tricky mantleshelf move onto a good ledge below steepening wall. Step right and move up on good holds until flakes (bolt on left), until forced out unabashedly rightwards and up to finish.

Start 5m left of the Tramlines gully below a steep wall with a scoop above. Climb wall for 4m then delicately into scoop, and up to small flake. Stand on this with difficulty (crux), and up to good holds. Continue to ledge. Directly up from ledge to abseil bush. Or step down and right across ledge and ascend wall some 2m right of big slash in cliff.

Start just right of big fig tree on boulder below steep slab. Climb this for a few unprotected moves to a ledge at 9m below small overhang. Bolt below overhang. Move up wall left of bolt (crux), up overhang and easier wall above to finish.

About 6m right of Junction there is a chimney crack above the ground. Climb easily up this to the righthand end of the Junction ledge, some 2m right of bolt. Move up right above obvious "pigeon-hole" (crux), then straight up wall above.

It has been said that one member of the Mountain Club makes the journey to Lukenia once a fortnight solely to do battle with this little beauty, If he succeeds on one safari, the only certainty is that it will defeat him on his next Originally climbed by traversing in from the Junction ledge on the left, parties in recent years have preferred a more direct approach. Start 3m left of Bandana at a "pigeon-hole" about a meter off the ground. Climb wall by "pigeon-hole" and step left at 3m to diagonal crack rising rightwards. Move right and over the overlap at 5m, directly above start. Climb face above moving slightly right to ledge. Mantle shelf up leftwards to ledge below black streak, and climb delicately up slab (crux), on right of bolt to top. Original route was to climb up to shallow cave and the move up rightwards.

This route ascends the steep wall and arete between Boiler Plate and Bandana. Start just left of Bandana where a difficult move leads left to a good hold. Move straight up to where pro can be placed above right end of overlap. Step right and up steep lichen wall to good jug. Mantle shelf. Move up right and ascend wall left of grassy Bandana gully with difficulty.

Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs.

This route is a 8m boulder problem at the top of a nondescript slab, which is located some 8m left of the start of Cemetery Corner. The lower slab leads easily to the first bolt, and the route continues straight up past a second bolt to the top. Near the top it is difficult staying clear of Tombstone. Worth doing but the climb would be far superior with one less bolt.

This climb is basically an improved direct finish to Cemetery Corner. Ascend Cemetery Corner until the end of the chimney and the obvious roof. Instead of moving out left, continue up the steep polished wall just left of corner to overhang. Surmount this right-wards.

What a joy this old classic is for the way it sorts out Lukenia climbers who can't get up cracks. There used to be a tree 9m up, which has now disappeared, adding to the quality of the climbs. Begin by thin crack in main bay where three or four technical moves leads to the overhang. Traverse left 1m and up flake to tricky move left to ledge (where the tree used to be). Move up a few feet and crux move into crack on right which is climbed to easier laybacking. Move left to gully and abseil cable.

All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so.

Originally climbed in order to show a visiting continental party that small wires can fake you a long way, and bolts are not always necessary. Ironically the Hot Rock team didn't know this had been climbed on wires and accidentally bolted it. It is important to climb this route the correct way and not cheat leftwards only the Finis jugs. Because of this some might say it's a little forced, but this does not detract from the experience. The climb Finis ascends the jug-covered wall 1-2m right of the main corner. This superb route climbs the steep face some 3m right of corner. Start from ledge system some 4.5m up from base of cliff. Some 4m right of corner there are two obvious scoops and the climb starts between them. Up on small holds 6m to prominent overlap. Step right and climb direct to welcoming jug. Straight up on better holds to top. On trad gear originally graded E1 5a. With bolts the sport grade applies.

Start about 5 feet to the right of a flake-like boulder that is separated from the main face. Move up and left to the crux at the second bolt showing faith in friction. After that, left into a scoop and then up to rail. After the last bolt there is about a 5 metre run-out to the anchors, up and left on easy ground but potentially scary and dangerous for beginners.

Start in orange corner to right of Leaper, below obvious thin crack leading up to left.

1. 15m. Up crack to traverse left onto good holds on the arete. Up wall above to ledge, then move right to cave and belay.

2. 15m. Move left to skyline ‘nose’, up corner then swing left onto arete. Easy climbing to summit. The second pitch is very photogenic!

On the left side of this cliff, and slightly lower than the other part is a slab leading to an obvious corner capped by a roof. Easily up slab to corner which is reached by climbing an initial bulge (crux). Move up to where a hand-traverse leads leftwards to finish. Originally an aid route which finished aiding through the overhang above on pegs.

This old route begins 6m right of The Rood. Hard moves up to bolt on right. Step left (crux) and up to easier ground. Step right and up groove to ledge. Traverse right to leftwards rising crack. Follow this to fig tree.

Start on right-hand piece of the broken block. Go delicately over the overlap trending right to the obvious pocket at 7.5m. Cross easier ground and up to nettle tree, then right to the overhung corner. Up this and exit right by the tree on good jugs to a ledge. Finish up the face above.

Start 1m right of the demarcation line of lichen and dark rock, where the gully begins to rise. An obvious red-coloured hold is some 4m above the ground. Straight up on thin holds to easier ground at 6m. Continue to top.

Start some 20m right of Number One at two parallel rock faults. Climb left-hand fault 4.5m then move to right- hand fault and follow to top.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

The highest section of the Main Wall is steep, pale and overhangs at the top. Just right of the top an obvious gully descends the cliff for 30 m. The climb starts immediately below this in a steep groove to the left of a grey column. Pegs should not be carried on this route.

1. 30 m Climb crack until a move right can be made onto a ledge. Move along this and belay in niche up on right.

2. 30 m Up slightly then step right on buttress and up to ledge. Move up left then back right to steep black wall which is climbed to belay at triangular flake.

3. 25 m Up ramp and ridge to belay below overhangs.

4. 37 m (THIS PITCH HAS CHANGED) From in situ belay peg, traverse 2 m left to break leading up through overhangs. Now traverse right across slabs to finishing gully. Seriousness: 3

Start about 12 m right of Stiletto at thin crack.

1. 40 m Up crack for 9 m. Over blocks to continuation of crack. Up this and move slightly right to ledge. Climb wide crack above then left around corner to another thin crack. Up this and left to ledge.

2. 40 m Traverse right 6 m then up groove to easier rock and broken terrace. Move right around corner and up thin crack to a steep shattered wall. Up this to recess and belay. Peg belays.

3. 40 m Up and left then straight up to obvious line leading to shattered cave. Traverse left for 9 m from cave then up wall to top. Seriousness: 3

Begin just around the left side of the arete from Bouboulinas Street. Climb the left-leaning corner up a variety of moves to a fixed pin at 5m. Move into a rightward layback and climb to 10m. Move around arete to the anchors of Bouboulinas Street on right. Poor protection; best done on toprope from Bouboulinas Street.

The prominent groove capped by a triangular block on the face overlooking the entrance to the gorge. Climb groove to its end then step right into crack. Up this a few feet then move left across lip of overhang and straight up to summit.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

30 m right of Black Panther.

60 m right of Black Panther.

From the boulder pillar of Shadow climb directly up (V+) to the base a very obvious off-width crack immediately right of pitch 2 of Shadow (15m). The wide slabby groove just right of the off-width crack is climbed; move right halfway up this, then left to corner where several fine moves left through overhangs lead to a poor stance (25m). The rotten upper section can either be climbed direct or by moving left to finish on Shadow (20m); belay 20m higher.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

This jamming exercise climbs the obvious narrowing crack in the north lacing wall 30' right of 'Thick and Thin'.

Historic route number: 4

Around the corner to the right is a chimney leading to a roof with a long fig tree root. Climb the chimney to just below the chockstone at 15', and move out onto the left wall. Continue over bulge, moving leftwards to a bolt above. A technical move (crux) leads past the bolt to the top.

Historic route number: 7

This route climbs the left wall of this cliff, and starts at a point where the wall bulges by a crack at 10'. Climb the crack and step left to bolt. Move up (crux), then step left when possible into break. Follow this more easily to top.

Historic route number: 11

Immediately right of the chimney is a steep wall with a bolt at 12'. Climb directly to bolt and move right to avoid bulge. Up and step left above bulge, then straight up past small tree. Move up and step left across chimney into an awkward blind crack which leads up, then right to finish. A direct finish from the lower bulge was later added by Uif Carlsson 7/2/94.

Historic route number: 17

Only the first 12' of this climb is [18]. Start right of 'Esprit' beneath a shallow groove. Climb awkwardly to bolt. Above the bolt step right, and easily up to horizontal crack. Climb straight up and follow thin crack to top.

Historic route number: 18

To the right is an obvious leftwards slanting crack which rises up a steep wall. Climb crack to where it bulges at 20'. Over bulge (crux) to good holds. Reverse and move up rightwards to ledge. Step left and up good rock to top.

Historic route number: 37

This route takes the clean crack to the right of 'Trader Horn' and 'Percolator'. Climb corner crack for 20' then follow crack left (crux), and up to ledge. Finish up crack above.

Historic route number: 39

Start at chimney about 20' right of 'Freebie'. Climb chimney using right wall to large ledge. Climb corner crack above until it prominently swings steeply up left. Up this crack to small ledge on left. Step across right above overhang and up to top.

Historic route number: 41a

Towards the right end of the crag is a large fig tree. To the left of the tree is a lichen-covered buttress with a wide crack on its left. This climb takes the right edge of the buttress. Start below and just to the left of the wide crack. Climb the wall for 12' then traverse left to gain the arete (thread runner). Move delicately around the arete and up to a large ledge. Climb the slab above on its right edge to the top.

Historic route number: 44

At the extreme right end of 'CB Buttress', is an obvious crack with a tree root. Climb the crack up to a small tree, and continue until it fades. Step left and ascend on good holds straight to the top of the pinnacle.

Historic route number: 47

Five metres left of 'A Lie of the Mind' there is a recess at the base of the buttress. Start at recess (bolts will be seen above). Climb bulging wall on right for 10' then move leftwards up break to bolt. Good moves straight up middle of cliff to top.

Historic route number: 48a

To the right of the arch, there is a red buttress. This route takes the centre of this buttress. Start with the finger-crack at the bottom of the pillar, and climb 15' to the first bolt. Continue up past small tree to second bolt, and up steeply on small holds to top.

Historic route number: 54

Some nice climbing but it leads nowhere. Quite strenuous with excellent protection. The corner to the right of 'Making Movies' has a fig tree almost at the top. Climb the chimney until an awkward step right can be made. Move right on underclings to a slanting leftwards crack, and up this (crux), to finish.

Historic route number: 62

Start as for 'Shock The Monkey'. Ascend this route past first two bolts to crack. Finish easily up this.

Historic route number: 67

Much better than it looks. This route climbs the groove/ corner in the middle of the bay to the right of the big buttress of the previous routes. Start directly below groove. Climb wall to start of groove, then straight up past two bolts to small roof. Pass this and climb crack above to top.

Historic route number: 68

One of the first classics at Frog, which has aged gracefully. This route takes the left edge of the cliff on the right of the 'Congo' bay. Start below a steep dark wall, which is climbed up slightly rightwards, then back left to a prominent small fig tree at 25'. Up through the tree onto the wall above, and climb up leftwards to a point below a bolt. Move up leftwards (crux) to the 'edge', which is followed to the top.

Historic route number: 70

Left of 'Quisling' there is a yellow wall with an arch which rises up rightwards. Start at right side of yellow wall below obvious overhanging blocks at 20'. Climb up past two bolts, then step right and move up over blocks to ledge. Step left and straight up to belay tree.

Historic route number: 70d

About 20' right of the previous route is an obvious offwidth crack. Climb crack to the block belay on 'Here Be Dragons', then finish up this route by climbing the crack above.

Historic route number: 78

In the centre of the cliff is an obvious corner crack which splits at 15'. Climb crack then layback leftwards until it is possible to pull up onto the block. A belay helps alleviate rope drag here. Climb crack above to top.

Historic route number: 79

Deservedly popular, a superb route which is an excellent introduction to harder Frog climbing. Start 15' right of the 'Here Be Dragons' corner beneath a steep wall with a thin crack at 10'. Climb to the crack and continue up ieftwards, making a delicate step left onto the slab (bolt above on right). Move up past a second bolt, step right and up to crack. Follow the crack past the tree to the top.

Historic route number: 80

Start as for 'The Liberator', and follow the route to the point before stepping left onto the slab. Continue straight up right of the bolts on the face to the finishing crack.

Historic route number: 80a

A superb route between 'Plummet' and 'Maggie' is a small buttress with a bolt at 20'. Climb directly up this buttress past the bolt (crux), to a ledge. Step right and follow groove up to bulging final wall. Move awkwardly up this to top.

Historic route number: 89

100meters of bliss on the left side of Nzaui - the big orange corner.

Scramble up the initial slabs on the far right for about 40m to get to below the headwall. From here climb up a short steep wall for 3m on the left end and move left and drop down onto a big grassy platform.

1. 40m 14 Traverse upwards and rightwards to the base of the orange corner. Protection maybe be found by digging under grass.

2. 50m 18 Go up the crack using all techniques you like. Belay at ledge and tree.

3. 50m 18 Continue up the crack in the same way, moving out onto the slab at the first corner and then back in. Belay round the second corner at the tree.

Great protection which just appears where needed. Standard Kenyan bush climbing rack up to DMM No4, less the panga and doom.

Descent - First party walked to further up to the base of the slabs above and traversed (climbers) left to a gully where a short (in height) game path leads to a bigger path down the gully.

A better option might be to either -

Abseil off the belay trees.

or

Climb/scramble/bushwack directly to the left of the final tree onto the top of the orange face and move left and abseil down the obvious chimney left of the climb.

Nice sport route with some steep moves.

Fingery sport route

Season: Mid-December to February. Time: 15 hours. This daring route is one of the most serious under- takings on the mountain. Start from Two Tarn Hut. A very narrow ice gully leads fromthe upper part of the Tyndall Glacier towards the left edge of the main serac barrier of the Forel Glacier. Climb this fully for four difficult pitches until an exposed traverse right allows one to gain a ramp, cutting rightwards through the seracs to the lowers snowfields of the glacier. If this ramp is not present the serac barrier could perhaps be bypassed on the left. On the first ascent an excellent bivouac site was found in the bergschrund on the left. Climb the slopes above to the highest point of the Forel, which can actually appear as a tiny snowfield in its own right. An intricate mixed pitch leads to the upper slopes, and further mixed climbing trending slightly right, leads to the upper slope of the South-West Ridge some 20 m from the summit.

Season: Probably best during June to October. The season is critical as the foot of the couloir is rarely linked to the Tyndall Glacier. Standard: VI. The first ascent party felt the first two pitches warranted Scottish V. Time: 9 hours climbing time.

A bivouac was spent in bergschrund. This couloir, which might be better described as an icicle, lies to the left of The Untravelled World Route, and joins the Tyndall Glacier with the extreme left side of the Forel Glacier. The first two pitches are very steep. The ice then becomes easier angled and in five more pitches provides an exit right onto the main Forel. The bergschrund bivouac cave of The Untravelled World is then reached, and this route is followed to the summit.