Routes in Africa for selected grade

Stand start to COW CORNER.

Start sitting with both hands on a big ledge and top out.

Climb the sloping face with tons of big jugs. Perfect for kids.

There are various fun and easy problems on the south side of the boulder climbing the well featured face.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so.

2 bolts half a meter down from the edge 2m right of Hakuna Coffee use the same safety bolt as Hakuna Coffee, EXPOSED CLIPPING use safety bolt. Start between 2 trees, on the right of the groove follow this or a direct variation up the salamander wall.

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Interesting wide crack that would be more interesting if it was less dusty.

Short, stout, right-leaning meat grinder that is solid hands (with smears for feet) for the first half and then a fairly casual layback for the 2nd half. Definitely need to tape up for the first section.

Overhanging hand crack starting above the P1 ledge of the North Face route.

Climb the obvious seem that is about 30m to the right of Alex's Incisor. The line is clear in the topo.

CLOSED PROJECT!

Same line as the Original Route with a traverse to onto the main face headwell.

1. 25m (17) as per Original Route. You'll need to climb through the step over move off the ledge to setup a stance at the beginning of the traverse.

2. 20m (19/20) After the step over move break right to traverse right the way around onto the main face to find yourself in an airy position. It's important to get the right line here and your belayer will not be able to see you railing out.

At the end of the traverse do a strenuous move up a dodgy looking flake, which has been tested and bears weight but move gingerly on this feature, up to a roof. Traverse right under the roof and up another flake, easy mantle and then easy terrain to the top.

Right of Through the Core exit. sit start as low as possible on underclings. Move diagonally up rightwards on good holds.

Pumpy, then delicate. Start at 2m left from the far right end of the overhang (this avoids the start for The Quick and the Dead). Layback 10 feet up a short but nice finger crack and reach up to a jug just over the roof. Reach high and left for a second good hold, then hard moves to gain the black slab above. Very delicate moves up the slab for 20 feet to easier ground and finish on the slab above. Done on top rope. Anyone up for leading / placing a couple of bolts?

Abseil notes:

Walk down the small Karambony corridor.

A bit more info at CampCatta route diagram (link below) in French.

Recommended equipment:

• 10 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 50m (9 bolts)

2. 40m (6 bolts)

3. 40m (4 bolts)

4. 50m (5 bolts)

5. 40m (4 bolts)

6. 50m (4 bolts)

7. 40m (4 bolts)

8. 40m (4 bolts)

9. 40m (5 bolts)

10. 40m (4 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Cas Nullard

• CampCatta - Case Nullard

First route on the left.

Climb the ridge in 6 pitches to the summit.

Crack route, fun. First pitch, the crux, is comitted. Informations, pictures on https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/mauritanie/ben-aicha-chouf-la-fissure/

Nice corner, and slab route. Informations on https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/mauritanie/ben-amira-rendez-vous-a-casablanca/

Nice, long easy route on a dyke https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/mauritanie/ben-amira-mauritanides-voyages/

Little bit runout.

Slippery, wet and sketchy. Recently rebolted and now safer.

Central wall, right route, glue-in bolts Attention: big lose rock in the middle of the route

Tête de moulinette : OK

Tête de moulinette : OK

2 points au relais

2 points au relais

3 dégaines 2 points pour le relais

voie indiquée sur le topo de 95

voie indiquée sur le topo de 95

A sport route, possibly without top anchors. Beware of peeling flakes.

Short, punchy route, with some fun laybacking to an overhanging finish. Slopey holds at the top require you to keep cool and find the best spots and body positions for the clips. The furthest right on the crag.

Follow bolts directly, with crux in the dark section at the top. Becomes 5c if you move left of the bolts at the crux

To the left of modern warrior, route bolted by Kristofer Fiore. Not sure about difficulty

Furthest left climb on the main wall of baboon cliff. Fun moves with two cruxes at the third and fourth bolt and then again at the final overhang.

The original route on the Mouse climbed the face just left of the N arete using a mixture of aid and free climbing. Subsequently climbed free, with new bolts added in 2019 now making it a very safe sport climb.

Start at a chimney at the Left side of the W face.

1. 10m. Climb the chimney then traverse left to easier ground leading to ledge, bolt belays.

2. 20m. Climb the steepening slab then wall above, old bolts and pegs in place, on creaky flakes.

A short sport climb that needs cleaning. Not clear where the route goes at the second bolt, you can either traverse back left from the ledge, or skip the bolt going straight up the slab.

Start to the right of the tree. Using the tree is cheating but you can use the flake on the ground for your feed. Pull up then climb up the big holes and finish rightwards to a lower-off.

Start on the prominent finger ledge then move to jug just below the grassy ledge. Move right and continue on thin slab to finish. Alternative is to move left on upper slab.

Named after our "cook" who needed instruction on how to cook scrambled eggs..

Hike to the base of the cliff (you can either go around the slabs to the left, or solo up). There's an easy way which takes about 20 minutes from the campsite, ask someone to show you (GPS track as of December 2019: http://tinyurl.com/wcnx8ya)

Fish’s 40th birthday present. The rock is solid with excellent friction but sharp. As it hasn't seen much traffic yet, take a helmet.

1. 35 meters. Starting at the belay anchor (two bolts) at the top of the easy slabs, up and then leftwards to a grassy ledge with the anchor on its right. Mantle no.1 onto the ledge.

2. 30 meters. Traverse right from the ledge then follow the bolts to an anchor on a slab. Mantle no.2 around the 5th bolt. Beware of the loose flake after this, don’t pull too hard on it.

3. 20 meters. Straight up to the slight overhang, Mantle No.3, then traverse a few meters leftwards to find an anchor on the arrete.

4. 30 meters. Up the arete and then traverse right past a big block (mantle on this if you feel like) resting on the slab. The anchor bolts are on the giant boulder.

Bring 11 quickdraws + biners for the anchors.

You can abseil down the route with a 60m rope (don't forget knots as some of the abseils are nearly exactly 30m). You can also walk down (climber's left after going behind the huge rock).

Start about 6m right of As Good As It Gets, leap for first hold (or opt for a stylish start if you can!) and then up into scoop. Move up leftwards, then direct to finish.

Long obvious crack easy to protect. When the crack stop, traverse on the right. Belay on the tree.

Start in the corner, below the small roof, clip the bolt and traverse right under the roof, then step over it. Straight up to the first anchors. Possibility to continue with one hard move (6c) and reach the top.

Start as for Great leap downwards and trend left, then traverse under the overhangs to an anchor. Not very interesting, climbed to bolt the anchor.

AG’s one-move wonder! Go up some intermediate terrain and throw a couple of bigger moves to get over a bulge. Sail up the rest of the pillar to the anchor. Named after the famous veggie market in Addis for all the plants pulled off the wall.

‘My Brother’ in Amharic, turned out to be Poroto Gringo’s lil sister. Shares same anchor. Lots of lichen.

Beginner/intermediate climbing on quality and varied basalt.

From the Totiel tea houses hike up to the south ridge of Jebel Totiel for 1 hour. Pitch 1 starts in the groove as you scramble onto the cliff. An easy 5a pitch for 50m. The pitch seems to have 3 variations from the same starting point and all have fixed anchors at the belay. From any of the belays scramble up and left to the base of the next wall. Climb the stacked blocks (4a) to reach a bolt with ring. The second pitch starts here. Pitch 2 50m (6a) Up the unprotected slab to the base of the obvious corner. Climb corner past the tree to make the ledge out left at the end of the corner and belay on bolts. Pitch 3 (4a) traverses far left before heading straight up on easier rock and belay off blocks. There is a single rap bolt further right which lines up with the previous belay. Single rack of cams 60m doubles to descend route Faces south so you will get cooked in the sun if you don't start early. 1 hour to the base of route, 2 hours to summit