Routes in Africa for selected grade

Starts halfway between 'Coffin' and the very large boulder about 30m upstream.

1. 32m 17 Climb the face a few meters right of the obvious-looking corner for 10m and continue right up a series of minor ramps to the ledge. Traverse right along ledge for 7m. Belay below an undercut corner which leads to a ledge 5m above.

2. 25m 20 Gain the ledge 5m above via some strenuous moves (20) or use a shoulder. Traverse 5m left to a smooth corner and climb this to the overhang. Climb up right using undercut layback grips to the overhang, then traverse right to easier ground. Continue to belay on shattered blocks. 3a. 25m 19 Traverse left around the corner and continue on a long horizontal traverse with a few precarious moves to gain the foot-rail traverse of 'Last Rites' and the traverse line of 'Coffin'.

Notes: The climb is not complete in itself as it uses the finish of other climbs, but it is included on its merits, as was the case with 'Last Rites'.

Variation:

3b. 20m 11 Traverse horizontally right across the smooth slab and continue up to the start of the final pitches of 'Tonquani Trifle' and 'Feng's Folly'.

A striking hand-crack situated on the south face of the eastern member of the Tweedledum & Tweedledee pair near the Eastern campsite above Tonquani.

1. [20] 10m Climb the crack.

The climb is situated 400 to 500m upstream of the Boulder Kloof / Lower Tonquani junction, 10m upstream of a sandy bank on the right hand side (looking upstream). The climb ascends a smooth grey face on the left wall (looking upstream). The face is terminated on the right by a vertical corner.

1. [20] 20m

   From the same start climb the thin crack line 2m left of the corner to the tree belay.

2. [8] 40m

   Climb 4m right up an easy grey face and then to the top of an easy grey ramp to the foot of a vertical red face.

3. [15] 40m

   Move 5m to the right. The pitch starts from a ledge with a block on the right. Start left of the stance and climb the juggy vertical face directly to the top to a tree belay.

Note:

The first and the last pitches are most enjoyable. The first requiring a fine sense of balance and the last is beautiful because of it's straightness, length and the juggy quality of the rock. This climb may have been done before as an old peg was found at the foot of the last pitch.

Immediately upstream of 'Dark Gully' is a narrow buttress in the lower tier. This is bound on its right by a steep corner ('Foxtrot') and immediately right again is a very sharp V-groove ('Quickstep'). The latter route follows the continuation groove in the top tier and 'Foxtrot' ascends a short groove in the steep ridge right of 'Dark Gully' . (Right of 'Touch and Go' .)

1. [20] 25m

   Make a difficult layback move up the steep crack to reach a peg (in place). Leave the peg with another awkward layback into the bottom of the V-groove. Ascend the groove with fine climbing and move out right below the final overhang to belay on large blocks.

2. [17] 25m

   Step left and up the open groove to where it steepens. Step left and ascend the wall immediately left of the blunt arete to the bottom of a steep corner. Make one move up this them mantelshelf up left ('Touch and Go' gains this shelf from the left then goes back left into the crack). Make another awkward mantelshelf up right, back into the corner crack which is ascended for one move before swinging out right and across into a short corner on superb holds. Up this to the overhang and step right to a stance and peg belays immediately above the original V-groove.

3. [10] 6m

   Move right and up a slab to the top.

Takes the steep, clean face about 15m downstream of 'Dark Gully' in Lower Tonquani, more or less opposite 'Effigy' . Start in the middle of the face, from grassy ledge about 15m above stream.

1. 23m 20 Start easily up face, then move right to thin crack system. Follow this up and finish through small overhangs.

Climb the right wall of 'Junction Recess' Scramble up 10m to a large grassy ledge at the base of 'Junction Recess' proper.

1. 20m 20 Climb the crack system up the steep smooth wall, keeping left of the arête all the way.

On the wall directly opposite 'The Doppler Effect' about halfway up, is a set of triangular shaped roofs with a prominent leftwards tending crack system. Scramble up to the left of the crack.

1. [20] 30m

   Move up and diagonally right onto a parallel sided chimney. Once at the top of the chimney traverse around the corner to a corner under a large roof. Follow the crack system through the roof to a good ledge of the left.

2. [17] 30m

   Follow the diagonal crack system for about 3m then move up and right to a set of roofs. Move through the roof to the top of the cliff.

Opposite 'The Doppler Effect' is a grey face with a pronounced column in the centre extending to approximately a third of the kloof height. The route takes the groove at the downstream extremity of the column, passes the route on the left, passes the tree, moves up the crack above to reach the top of the column. The route ascends the face immediately above the top of the column and then moves up the buttress above to the top (cairn).

1. [20] 26m

   Move up diagonally right to reach the base of the downstream facing groove. Climb this moving cautiously as you approach the roof. Break out of the roof to the left and pull up to reach the tree above. Take a belay.

2. [11] 19m

   Climb the open book above the tree until forced rightwards by the roof above. Break right and move up to take a stance on top of the column.

3. [13] 33m

   Ascend the vertical face immediately above the stance until it degenerates. Take a stance on top.

Note:

Excellent climbing, technically demanding.

Directly opposite 'Oedipus Sunday' is an obvious open book capped by an overhang with the open book continuing above. The meat of this climb is the last pitch, which is excellent. If you just want to climb this, then it makes sense to rap in from above. For completeness, all the pitches are written up here.

1. [13] 28m

   As for pitch 1 of 'Rolex' to the large grassy ledge, or traverse right from the easy gully on the left.

2. [13] 20m

   Ascend face directly below open book to ledge.

3. [20] 25m

   Climb open book to ledge. 'Bumping Weight Tosser-Direct' continues up the thin dihedral above. Instead, traverse left for 3m then climb pleasantly to top.

Immediately downstream of the first wade pool in Lower Tonquani (below Tonquani/Cedarberg junction) scramble up gully on right hand side. Scramble to the right to high ledges (about 45m above stream) at base of wall.

1. 35m 19 Climb easily up to base of obvious steep crack. Climb obvious line through small roof to ledge on right. Climb wall on right to top. (Alternatively, finish up continuation crack (23) Charles Edelstein)

Just downstream of 'War of the People' a tree lies across the kloof (at a wade pool) against a buttress with gullies up either side. There is a small cave about 8m up on the right. Above this is a wall with a thin crack leading up to a roof about 3m up.

1. 25m 20 Climb up easily to the first roof. Pull through this onto the face. Climb the thin crack line above past two cruxes and then pull fairly strenuously through the middle of the roof above via the small 'recess'. Scramble to the top.

Notes:

1. Pro is excellent.

2. There is a descent down the gully upstream of 'War of the People' or, alternatively, traverse left and scramble down to gully from top of the hard climbing.

Just downstream of the "fallacross" tree in Lower Tonquani is a prominent gully on the right hand side. The route takes the obvious steep left tending crack up the downstream facing wall.

1. [20] 25m

   Climb the crack to a ledge.

2. [17] 40m

   Climb left out of cubbyhole then steeply initially to a large ledge. Walk left, step across a recess to climb the attractive rib above.

Situated about 300m upstream of the Northern entrance to the kloof. The climb ascends a less than vertical, smooth grey face on the true right of the kloof. The face cannot be missed as two bolts are visible from the stream bed. The pitch is well protected.

1. 25m 20 The climb starts below the bolts and continues directly to the top of the crag.

The crack left of 'Throgmorton Street' i.e. to the right of 'Wall Street'

1. 15m 20 Pull through the roof of the square cave and climb the crack.

Climbs the left wall of 'Teddybears Picnic' (i.e. Between the chimney and 'Ivory Madonna' ). Starts off the lizard ledge.

1. 15m 20 Climb straight up the face past the bolt to the peg. Move left onto the arete and continue up to the tree belay. Abseil down.

30m downstream from Tonquani/Cedarberg junction on the true left. Scramble up to the lizard ledge 10m above river.

1. [20] 25m Two cracks 1m apart converge higher up into one, forming a small open book. Climb this.

Located in the deep recess just downstream of 'The Doppler Effect'. opposite 'A Question Of Balance' and to the right of a bulge in a vague buttress, there being an initial crack system in the lower part of the buttress, a large tree 25m above and it is topped by a large reddish coloured buttress which is undercut on its' arete. Also, there are prominent crack systems to the left and right of the climbs' start.

1. [20] 25m

   Climb the centre of the buttress and the bulge (crux), moving left higher up to seek protection on the ledge/arete. Continue up the buttress to the large tree above and stance.

2. [20] 25m

   Move left to below the crack system on the reddish coloured face of the buttress that faces the kloof. Climb the crack which is about 2m left of the arete. Where the crack finishes traverse 2m left and ascend to the top over steps and ledges keeping to the left at the very top, where good climbing prevails. Belay on ledge / tree.

The route takes the faint crack system midway between the first pitch of 'Jack the Ripper' and 'Oedipus Sunday' .

1. 20m 20 Climb the crack system directly below the black streaked wall and to the right of the knife edged arete of 'Jack the Ripper' . Move left to gain the recess above.

Note: Gear on the crux is scarce.

Start at base of large narrowing dihedral left of 'Kamikaze' . Scramble up about 20m to a ledge and a rather large tree.

1. [19] 20m

   Climb onto right wall of dihedral and climb cracks and wall past a tree up to right of 'Kamikaze' stance with block.

2. [20] 15m

   Step left into dihedral and layaway up until you can move left onto small ledge. Climb crack to top.

Climbs the obvious downstream facing corner system just before reaching the bottom of the decent gully.

No description!

Climb the overhanging crack a few meters left of 'Kulu' .

There is a buttress on the true right of the Mountain Club of South Africa sign. In the middle of the buttress there is a recess/corner. The climb takes the left hand corner in the recess.

1. [20] 10m

   Climb the left hand corner with the crux just off the ground and continue up to a ledge and tree belay.

2. [17] 10m

   Move up the middle of the face behind the ledge, pulling through a small overhang at the top.

Starts 70m downstream of easy descent gully from Twins campsite. A large sandy bay is evident at the right hand side where camping and fires have taken place. A steep arete and crack to the right can be seen at the front of the buttress (cairn).

1. [20] 25m Scramble up roots to ledge (4m). Climb easy slab above and awkward move onto block on left. Climb overhanging arete/crack to rest point and move up to the left past bollard on rounded rock to top.

Between 'Deception' and 'Red Falcon Crag' is "overhanging rock". A buttress starts from wide ledges about 18m above the kloof bed. On the right hand side of the buttress is a prominent steep black groove. 'Black Shadow' gains this using a large flake on the left to avoid the initial overhanging section. On the left side of the buttress is a shallow groove leading onto a slanting slab and this is the line of 'Heatstorm' Scramble to the large ledges at base of the buttress and block belay near the start of the obvious flake crack.

1. [15] 18m

   Climb the flake crack for 5m to where it steepens. Traverse right (awkward) to a good ledge, move up and walk right on top of the flake into the black groove. Move up to a tree belay in a cave.

2. [20] 15m

   Ascend the groove by lay-backing and bridging.

(See comment in 'Black Shadow' ) Scramble to the large ledges at the base of the buttress and tree belay just to the left of the short steep wall below the shallow groove.

1. 18m 18 Ascend a short overhanging wall and continue directly up the shallow groove to a small stance and peg belay on the left, below the slanting wall.

2. 30m 20 Move right, gain the slanting slab and follow it right. On reaching the top right extremity of the slab, step down below a small overhang and gain the undercut slab on the right, moving past a peg (in place). Cross this using flakes in the roof, reach up to a block and swing round into a recess and a good resting place. Move up to the overhang, step left onto protruding blocks and surmount the overhang to a large flake. A short groove leads to scrambling to the top. A serious pitch due to dubious rock and considerable exposure.

This route starts between 'Cedarberg Traverse' and 'Adrenalin' . About 10m left of 'Adrenalin' there is a short recess, usually a bit damp, with an old peg visible about 4m above ground level. The first pitch has obviously been climbed before but is not written up.

1. [19] 30m

   Climb the recess to a good ledge. Walk right about 5m to another break and climb this to a small ledge on the right where another old peg is to be found. A difficult move up and left brings you onto easier rock. Climb upwards and tending left to ledge which is at the same level as 'Cedarberg Traverse' . Dassie crawl right along the ledge to a large ledge which is about 10m to the right of 'Cedarberg Traverse' .

2. [20] 45m

   Above is an impressive corner. Climb up 15m to a small overhang (15). A difficult move right, around the corner, brings you into a small recess. Continue with difficulty horizontally right into a further recess. Up slightly and then traverse onto a stance common with 'Adrenalin' . Continue up easy rock to the top.

Start 5m upstream of the first pitch of 'Boggle' (a tree-filled corner 18m downstream of the swimming pool).

1. [20] 25m

   Climb right then up to gain a crack leading to ledges beneath a white face.

2. [18] 45m

   Climb up the left side of the white face ( 'Boggle' 2nd pitch traverses right across the face). Traverse left beneath the penultimate roof, climb 5m up the wall above, move right around a long overhang and continue directly to the summit.

Located on the buttress immediately downstream and back from the buttress on which the top pitches of 'Boggle' are situated.

1. [15] 25m

   As per the first pitch of 'Boggle' .

2. [11] 15m

   Climb up the gully over mixed ground to the base of an obvious open book which has an off-width crack in its' corner.

3. [20] 20m

   Ascend the face to the right of the open book to a cave which has a dead tree rooted in it. Move across to the small recess on the right of the cave. Climb through the small roof capping the recess and continue up the face above to easier ground. A bollard belay can be taken at the top.

Note:

Protection on the crux of pitch 3 is good.

Start as for 'Sorrento' .

1. [13] 10m

   Mantle shelf onto ledge, climb up in corner and traverse left to a large flat (and wet) ledge. Belay on right hand side.

2. [20] 12m

   Slide over to the left hand side of the ledge and climb up left to a ledge beneath the overhanging wall (piton in place). Climb the wall from the right hand end of the ledge, using 2 or 3 nuts for aid, to a grassy ledge.

3. [13] 20m

   Traverse left along the ledge, and climb up to a broken open book recess, which is ascended to a large slabby ledge.

4. [17] 25m

   Climb up the steep wall to the left of the white root (strenuous), and up over easier pleasant rock to stance at base of slightly overhanging wall.

5. [15] 25m

   Move around the right hand end of the wall and climb up a short way in the corner. Move out left and around onto a ledge above the wall, which is traversed left to a V-shaped chimney capped by an overhang. Climb this to reach the top.

Note:

The first two pitches can be combined. From the top of pitch 2 one can climb up right in a large recess (8), then scramble up to the top. One can also scramble off from the top of the following pitches, but then, if you feel like we do, you'll climb. Pitch 2 may go free, especially now that some of the vegetation has been cleared.

Variation:

5a. 14m 21 Instead of moving right, continue straight up the overhanging wall utilising the obvious cracks (strenuous). Continue up to the base of the V-shaped chimney mentioned in pitch 5. Climb the chimney to the top.

Starts in an overhanging recess opposite 'Grandpa's Choice', about 18m upstream from 'Cedarberg Corner' .

1. [20] 9m

   Climb to top of overhanging recess, move out 2m to left and ascend to stance above overhang in crack.

2. [10] 14m

   Follow crack to ledge with large tree. Traverse right about 30m.

3. [12] 9m

   Ascend open book to summit.

Note:

Crux poorly protected by peg. A choice of several routes is possible for the last pitch.

Between FROG FACE and RANA is a huge overhanging amphitheatre at 45m. This route climbs the easy wall direct into the amphitheatre, then avoids the huge roof by an exhilarating traverse right immediately below the roof. Start directly below the right hand corner.

1. 40m 10 Ascend the wall directly to the corner in the right of the huge amphitheatre. Climb the corner to a block belay 6m below the roof.

2. 25m 20 Climb the very steep corner up to the huge roof. Climb the steep corner up to the huge roof. Hand-traverse out right on good holds to a very exposed ledge on the arete. A few metres of overhanging rock leads to easy ground above.

On left wall of gully leading to cave is open book leading up to roof with jam crack.

1. 30m 20 Up corner to roof. Starting at right, pull through and up and easy ground to abseil tree.

A higher-quality alternative top pitch to GOLDEN BALLS. Start at the small tree belay.

1. 30m 20 Ascend the easy crack 3m left of the GOLDEN BALLS corner crack for 10m to a ledge. A diagonal break tends right across the wall above. Climb the break, with the crux low down, and continue directly up the wall to a blocky ledge. Step 2m left and follow an easy corner to a tree belay.

Note:

Excellent climbing. The first 5m of the diagonal break is not over-protected.

This climb ascends the thin face 1m right of ALABASTER

1. 23m 20 Climb the thin face 1m right of ALABASTER.

The climb takes the arete leading to the top of the overhanging red buttress about 15m upstream of the Boulder Kloof meet point. Start midway between IPSO FACTO and SLIPSTREAM.

1. 30m 20 Climb the recess and, before reaching the birdshit streaked rock, traverse right across a slab to the base of the final orange arete. Climb steeply to the top.

Note: For more exciting climbing, follow the arete from ground level i.e. start 1m to the left of SLIPSTREAM.

Start as per Free World

A bold sustained route on excellent rock taking the centre of the steep clean red face left of TRIO.

1. 45m 20 Start left of the TRIO chimney below small overhang. Climb up to overhang and traverse right towards chimney. Ascend wall just left of chimney passing small tree on its left to where chimney goes diagonally right (5m). Traverse 2m left to below smooth steep part of face with thin finger layaway on left. Climb this tending slightly right to reach good horizontal break (crux) then strenuously to top on increasingly larger holds.

Opposite SLIPSTREAM and PLANXTY. To the left of the big double roots is a steep buttress (Zeus Buttress), split by a buttress higher up.

1. 30m 20 Climb the fingertip crack/groove to below the bulge, traverse left to the arete (platform) and climb diagonally right on white rock. Continue up easily and climb the right hand edge of the face above.

The route starts approximately 50m upstream of DOGSTYLE on the true left hand side of the kloof. The opposite side of the kloof has a smooth grey slab festooned with roots. The first stance is 3m above the stream bed and is at the base of a deep recess. There is an obvious layback/flake crack halfway up the face above.

1. 30m 20 Climb onto the face 2m right of the belay tree. Continue straight up to under a small roof. Climb the crack above, moving 1m right where it end, Move more easily up to the top.

Climbs the slabs just below SABER (to the right of BOULDER SPIRAL). Scramble 5m to a ledge,

1. 20m 20 From ledge move up to some blocks, traverse 3m right to below thin crack with small roof at 5m. Climb the crack to the top.

Climbs the steep wall to the left of CHILCOOT CHARLIE.

1. 30m 20 Climb directly up the face to a small ledge. From the right hand side of the ledge climb up the steep face past a bolt into a crack line. Continue straight up to a small ledge with a short, right facing corner. Climb the corner moving left to below a small tree. Climb up liberally using the tree and stand on it. It is easier to climb on the left side of the tree. Move up to a big ledge. (The last move is the crux).

2. 10m 10 Climb the recess at the back of the ledge past a tree to the top of the crag.

Note: A sustained, direct climb with good protection. Hardest move is 19, but due to sustained nature graded 20.

Located downstream and around the corner from FAMOUS BLUE RAINCOAT. The climb is characterized by an overhanging face with a crack ending at about two thirds height. The face is set back in the rear of a wide recess.

1. 25m 20 Climb the recess up the right hand corner to the steep face with the crack in it. Using the ledge on the right climb to the top of the crack and then rail left onto a ledge. Climb the corner to another ledge and traverse right and then move up to a large ledge. Belay here and/or ascend the short face to the top of the crag. Good climbing, however, the line is non-continuous.

Takes the left facing corner 5m right of TURKEY SHOOT.

1. 20m 20 Climb up to the corner using a good but suspect sounding block/flake. Climb the corner to below the small roof and step right onto the small ledge shared with TURKEY SHOOT. Finish as for TURKEY SHOOT.

This climb takes the impressive red wall just upstream and on the same side as TASK FORCE and ALOE ANARCHY. (downstream of MISDIRECTED.)

1. 35m 20 Start in the middle of the downstream red face. Climb diagonally leftwards up steps then back rightward to a ledge. Climb the short open book above the ledge tending slightly rightwards. Move up to small flake (good friend protection). Traverse leftwards for 3m to resting spot (crux). Climb recess to the top, moving right to the ledge.

Note: Well protected climb on clean rock. Good exposure on the crux section.

Climbs a slightly overhanging face 15m downstream of TANGLES. The climb is located roughly above the meet site.

1. 15m 20 Start in the middle of the face. Climb the face to a good hand hold and clip the 1st bolt (difficult!!!). Climb diagonally left to the second bolt and then continue directly to the top of the crag.

This climb starts 2m to the right of TRISDIDECAPHOBIA in a pronounced corner.

1. 15m 20 Climb the short corner onto a good ledge. Move right onto the steep face and follow the break up the face to a rail. Continue up the steep face moving slightly left near the top of the crag to avoid a grassy section.

The climb is a located in the middle of the wall.

1. 10m 20 Start directly below the first bolt. Climb up past the bolts to the ledge. Move slightly left into the left facing corner and climb this to the big ledge.

Descend as for SHANGHAI SURPRISE.

Found on the steep wall between CALCANIUS and ANCIENT DUST.

1. 26m 20 Start below the bolt in the short recess. Climb the recess to below the bulge, pull through and continue up the face to the small ledge. Climb the face directly above to below a roof. Avoid the roof by stepping right and then moving up to the large ledge above.

Descend as for SHANGHAI SURPRISE.

Located on the steep slab to the right of THE CORNER. There is a tree on the right side of the slab about half way up. To gain the base of the slab scramble up the short step.

1. 30m 20 Climb up the steep face immediately to the left of the chimney at the head of the gully. Upon reaching the tree step right and then pull through the overhang to a small ledge. Climb the buttress above to gain a small open book and climb this to the top of the crag.

Descend via the gully about 50m downstream.

Starts 2m to the right of THE NAMELESS ONE and SHAKA ZULU. i,e. Downstream and on the opposite side of the kloof to OPUS ONE. A prominent corner capped with an overhang lies 2m to the right.

1. 20m 20 Climb a tricky initial section up to a small overhang. Pull through the overhang on the left and climb the recess to a small ledge. Continue up the break, exiting on the left at the top.

Takes the impressive overhanging corner / crack between the two noses 0.4 m left of IT'S ALL IN THE GAME. Scramble up 8m using the fallen tree belay below the corner.

1. 12m 20 Climb the corner/crack to the ledge above. Strenuous.

Rap off tree.

The route is situated some 3m upstream of PIN HEAD on the small grey buttress opposite the entrance to the waterfall gully (cairn). The route has, as objective, the right hand crack in the head wall high up on the buttress and takes the slab just upstream of the arête to get there.

1. 39m 20 Climb the thin slab to gain the layaway ridge upstream and parallel to the arête. Move up this to a rest of sorts, and then climb the wall to gain the base of the crack system above. Move up the crack to gain the pin head ledge below the head wall and ascend the crack to the comfortable belay stance above. Beware of a loose flake at the start of the jam crack.

Note: Climbing on the crux is bold. Descent is possible, by abseil, down the loose gully on the upstream side of the buttress. Be careful.

Very near the top of Hamerkop on the west side, stands an enticing vermilion buttress. The buttress is rounded at its base and is overhanging above.

1. ?m 20 On the downstream innermost curve of the buttress climb the short red recess (3-4m) with technical upper section to the mouth of a hanging gully. This brings you to a steep red wall on your left (south) capped by an overhang. Climb up obvious recess to hand rail below roof (1.5m). Traverse along handrail until overhang begins to give. Climb straight up (crux) between yellow rib on left and overhang on right until top is reached.

Note: Lovely airy pitch. Very photogenic with excellent protection.

The route follows the finger crack in the centre of the red face forming the upstream wall of the amphitheatre containing CARDIAC ARREST and NOTHING SUCKS LIKE ELECTRO LUX. (Opposite the pipe ramp). From the stream bed ascend the enormous tumbled blocks below a red wall.

1. 15m 20 Climb the finger crack to the blank open book above. Stem up this and exit to the right near the top to avoid the garden. Note: Good climbing. Steep mother. Take pruning shears and wheelbarrow along.

Starts at the same point as NOTHING SUCKS LIKE ELECTRO LUX i.e. inside the CARDIAC ARREST chimney.

1. 20m 20 Ascend the steep open book on the right-hand wall of the chimney, to the level of the obvious rail, (stepping onto the right arête for last move), crux. Rail left for 2 metres and gain the corner above using the (apparently) safe blocks. Gain the immaculate fingerlock / layback crack above and follow this and the continuation chimney to the top of the buttress.

Note: Well protected, great climbing.

The climb takes the impressive overhang with a crack running through it to the right of SWING GENTLY. [Opposite the pipe ramp]

1. 30m 20 Climb easily up to the cubby hole underneath the overhang. Using bridging, move through the overhang and continue up the left-hand corner above.

Note: Seconds must be prepared to prussik!

Takes the arête between CHILD IN TIME and ONE CRACK MIND.

1. 15m 20 Start up CHILD IN TIME and after 5m step right onto the arête. Climb this to the tree. Sparse but adequate protection.

Climbs the pinky white wall between AMAZING GRACE and STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN, starting from the same elevated ledge as AMAZING GRACE.

1. 25m 20 From, the left end of the ledge traverse 2m left to gain the prominent crack, ascend this to the recess above, until level with a short flake/pillar on the left. Climb the white wall above, move slightly right until under the roof at the point where there are two downward pointing teeth. Crank through the roof and ascend the easier headwall to the tree belay.

Notes:

1. This route replaces the original BEER HUNTER, as it achieves what that one intended to. It was led with preplaced gear at the roof.

2. Technically straightforward, but contains some bold moves! The last 5m are common with AMAZING GRACE.

Variation: (The original route)

1. 30m 18 From the left end of the ledge, traverse 2m left to gain the prominent crack and follow this for 3m until it is possible to pull left into a roofed recess. Return to the main crack line and follow this for 5m to a short flake/pillar on the left. Make a rising traverse to the right across pinky-white rock to gain a stepped ramp below a prominent horizontal crack. From the centre of the ramp pull directly through the overlap above and ascend rightwards to gain the obvious groove. Follow this for 5m and step left to the belay ledge and tree.

A fallen tree lies across the kloof about 40m downstream of the "cave blocked by trees". Immediately downstream of this fallen tree is a 0.5m diameter tree, one metre from the base of the true left rock face. Start here, at the bottom of a shattered break.

1. 10m 20 Avoid the shattered break, and climb vague "steps" up and right, to move right into the base of a V-groove which is followed to the top.

Scramble up the watercourse above the lunch spot. Around the level of the tumbled blocks near the base of PHOENIX walk out along the clean red ledge on the true left hand side. Halfway along the ledge a break leads through the 2m roof.

1. 10m 20 Pull through the roof and climb the break.

Start 3m to the right of PHOENIX in open book with crack leading to ledge 9m up.

1. 9m 17 Climb handjam/layback crack to ledge under small overhang. (Stance shared with PHOENIX.)

2. 25m 20 Take off from right hand side of ledge in corner. Surmount overhang (crux) and continue straight up on small face. After this the grade eases to 14/15. Climb up in direct line with crux until forced left into corner with crack leading to top (4m to the right of PHOENIX). Climb crack and belay from small tree.

Start 3-4m left of SPHINX.

1. 15m 20 Move up steep rock to a roof, pull through and up diagonally left to stance below a chimney left of a off-width crack.

2. 15m 19 Move up and left onto wall. Pull through a succession of roofs in an exposed position to the top.

Start just to the right of A CHEVAL, at the large tree growing horizontally out into the kloof from the gully. This is about 20m below the main decent gully (GROOTHOEK GULLY).

1. 25m 18 Climb the face for about 4m, 2m left of the corner, and then swing right onto the corner below an overhanging crack just to the left of the corner. Climb this strenuously for 3m and then swing right around the corner along a horizontal break. Traverse right for 5m and then climb a crack system leading to an open book topped by an overhang. (Later section is common with pitch 2 of HEFFALUMP TRAP.) Move right at the overhang to a small tree and climb up steeply on good holds via a broken recess to a large ledge. Walk around left into gully and scramble up to a tree below a prominent steep recessed crack in the right hand wall.

2. 30m 20 Climb the crack to the top. Crux at the overhang about 20m up.

Note: A more direct finish to pitch 1 may be climbed by moving left at the overhang on HEFFALUMP TRAP rather than moving right.

This route is found on the true left of the kloof in line with the normal meet site. Scramble up a short slope to a large soil covered ledge. Move left to below a steep buttress. The route follows a line through a small overhang and then rightward into a corner.

1. 25m 20 Climb an overhang (crux micronuts for protection) moving right into a corner. Continue up to a small stance. Then move right and climb a wide crack (off width) up the left side of a pillar. Continue up to a good stance in a small cubbyhole.

2. 20m 16 Climb the face on the left side of the cubbyhole to a crack system. Continue up on easy rock to a good stance. Scramble off to the right.

Notes:

1. After the first pitch it is possible to scramble off to the right of the climb.

2. On the opening ascent the leader held onto a small, dead tree whilst doing the crux. The tree broke when weight was placed on it causing a leader lob, hence the name of the climb.

Start below a steep shallow recess, about 5m left of the large flake on the traverse near the start of EN PASSANT, and leading up to the right hand end of the deep chimney of CENTURY CHIMNEY.

1. 30m 20 Climb the recess, pulling outwards on a nut to overcome a steep section about 8m up, to a resting place just inside the chimney. Climb the chimney to the top.

The route takes the left hand crack in the broad recess 3m right of 20TH CENTURY, and therefore left of EN PASSENT.

1. 35m 20,A1 Climb up past a small tree to a cubbyhole below the recess's overhang. Then move left onto the face, and follow the crack line to about 2m below the main roof. Traverse 4m right using one point of aid (peg in place) to the broken recess, and ascend this to the right hand end of the roof. Climb the rightward slanting groove (on the right), followed by an open book, to the top.

Note: At the cubbyhole and the top of the crack, there is some loose sounding rock.

Start about 55m upstream from SLAB GULLY and 35m downstream from the large boulder straddling the kloof. A few metres downstream of the prominent recess of TRUMPET and on the same side of the kloof, there are two short recesses, each capped by an overhang, leading to a ledge 10m above the stream bed.

1. 10m 13 Climb the right hand of the two recesses to the large ledge.

2. 18m 15 Above the ledge a narrow ramp leads up diagonally rightwards. Step up to reach the base of this ramp and follow it to a stance, passing some loose rock near the top.

3. 18m 20 Step left and up into a short, steep recess. Move up 2m and swing left onto steep face and climb up to where angle eases. Climb up recess above to a large ledge.

4. 20m 19 Above and to the left of the stance a prominent nose-like arete juts out over the kloof. Climb the crack next to this arete for 4m and then traverse left across it to the edge, where it is possible to move up and then around the corner to a resting point. Climb the crack above past a small tree and continue to the top.

On the walk-in to Grootkloof, as you enter Ysterhoutkloof upstream of the campsite, is a very obvious off-width crack above a small roof on the far side of the kloof (true right).

Note: Please note that the Canopy Tour has a platform underneath this route.

1. 20m 20 Climb up to the roof and climb the crack.

Taking the right buttress 8m upstream of THE GUNK MAN.

1. 20m 20 Climb up the centre of the front of the right buttress heading for the obvious finger crack. Gain the finger crack and follow it to a small roof. Continue up the crack through the roof with difficulty to easier ground above.

This climb starts on the true right hand side between THE SLIT and CARDIFF ARMS. The latter route starts up a black water streak directly below a chimney/crack. Start approximately 1-2m left of this water streak.

1. 25m 20 Climb the blunt arete and continue up the face diagonally left for 5m. Above is an upstream-facing corner. Climb up the corner and continue up a vague groove to a tree. Either tear up the loose gully above, or ab off the excellent tree on the right.

Starts midway between STRAIGHT EDGE corner and CLEFT BUTTRESS and takes the crack and outside edge of the buttress above.

1. 25m 20 Ascend the layback crack just to the right of a tree growing against the cliff 2m out from the STRAIGHT EDGE crack to a ledge 5m up. Climb the off-width crack (left) to below an overhang and step left to a small ledge on the outside corner. Attain the ramp above delicately and layback through the steep section (crux). Climb more easily to a ledge and eye belay.

2. 12m 9 Chimney up behind stance (as for STRAIGHT EDGE CORNER).

Variation:

1. 25m 19 From the sloping ramp move left around the corner and climb to the same stance on small positive holds. Climb straight up from the top of the off-width crack, that is, do not step left onto the outside corner. (May 1985 Kevin M. Smith, Steve Bradshaw and A. Jack)

Takes the slab 8m downstream of STRAIGHT EDGE. Similar climbing to that on QUICK SILVER. Start directly below the slab which is dissected by horizontal rails. Step off a boulder to start.

1. 25m 20 Ascend the slab directly without reference to either of the bounding vertical crack systems. Crux at overlap, at 8m. Move slightly right to the base of the crack system in the headwall. Follow this system for 3m and finish by moving right into a small corner.

This takes a line up on the downstream edge of the SOULCRUSHER/HAWKS NOSE buttress. Scramble up to belay at a thin tree in the original TEMPTATION CRACK.

1. 15m 19 Climb a few metres up TEMPTATION CRACK, traverse about 5m right under the roof until one can breakthrough onto a face. Climb up to ledge shared with SOULCRUSHER.

2. 5m 20 Climb the small downstream facing dihedral 3m left of SOULCRUSHER, exiting right near the top. Climb to the ledge above and belay below the dihedral on the left edge of the buttress.

3. 15m 19 Climb the dihedral, exiting right to belay in a spectacular position.

Start directly below the top chimney of TEMPTATION CRACK.

1. 30m 20 Climb up to the very square roof about 8m up. Climb straight through. Continue to ledge.

2. 40m 19 Climb the crack directly behind through a small roof to the base of the TEMPTATION CRACK chimney. From here straight up to top, as per the original route.

Start about 10m downstream of SPACE WALK. Scramble easily up a grey slab to a ledge and belay around a large tree which is 3 metres downstream of a corner.

1. 25m 19 Climb delicately up a smooth face to a large square roof. At the roof, move right onto a rail which has some large blocks on it. Move back onto the original line and continue up to stance on a polished sloping ledge in a corner.

2. 20m 19 Up the corner for 2m, then move right and up. Traverse easily to a stance common with SPACE WALK.

3. 15m 20 From the ledge move up onto triangular block. Reach high for a jug and traverse left to a stance on the top. Note: For its grade, a spectacular and mind-shattering climb. A bold lead.

Start about 6m right of the original start, on top of a boulder just to the left of a prominent corner, and just right of an arete with a small overhang about 3m up.

1. 30m 20 Climb up delicately to where protection can be placed in a horizontal crack at the level of the overhang. Swing left and move up the arete past overhang via two handholds, before being forced back right on to the smooth face. A very delicate move enables one to reach a good handhold and climb up on to an awkward ledge. Traverse left 3m to join the original route just below the next overhang.

The route takes the line up the middle of the buttress known as THE GOLDEN GATE at the bottom campsite. THE GOLDEN GATE is the large orange rock buttress visible from the road.

1. 35m 20 Start 2m to the right of corner on the northern aspect of the buttress. A difficult move up and then more easily to a large ledge. Above is another break. Do an awkward move up and then move diagonally up right to jumbo ledge. Climb the obvious slanting crack 2m right of the wriggle chimney and move right before the next huge ledge.

Note:

The last pitch is common with that of THE GOLDEN GATE.

Climbs a thin crack up a face & past a tree approximately 30-40m upstream of DINKUM DIHEDRAL, between TREMADOC FEVER and NETTLE CHIMNEY.

1. 20m 20 Climb the crack moving leftwards towards the top.

The climb goes up the slight buttress and shallow recess above, which lies between BORED GAMES and CEE CRACK. Start at the top of the large boulder alongside the face.

1. 30m 20 It is advisable to protect the first 10m of the climb by placing a sling high up in the tree leaning across the kloof from just downstream of the apex of the block above. Layback very strenuously up a thin crack to get your hands onto the ledge above. Get onto this ledge by traversing left strenuously to a better handrail and then swinging the feet up. Traverse delicately back right in a very off-balance position to where a handhold can be reached allowing one to step right into a small bottomless recess and up to a resting place on a ledge above (place for a small stance). Climb the shallow recess above to the large ledge above. Halfway up is a difficult move (19) involving a brief move onto the left arete. (In the opening ascent, the leader held onto a nut to swing onto the left arete which reduced the grade to 17.)

2. 20m 15 Walk about 5m right and climb the face and pillar above just to the right of the prominent arete. Continue up on the right hand side of the arete, finishing up with a strenuous move (15) near the top.

Well, by trees actually. The start is 5m upstream of UNKNOWN PLEASURES in an openbook with a crack in it which widens to fist-jam size.

1. 15m 18 Climb the crack to a ledge. Move back along the ledge to an easy crack on the right at a big inset. Move up the crack to end on the ledge with a large tree.

2. 20m 20 To the left is a big red block. Start on the block (beacon) move up an overhanging groove to easy ground. Above is a red wall with a thin crack to start. Climb up and move left to exit on a small ledge.

The route starts from the top of the huge boulder, just upstream from GABOOM.

1. 15m 17 From the top of the boulder a few tricky moves right lead to the base of the obvious shallow chimney. A difficult move gives access into the chimney. Climb up and exit to the left onto a large ledge.

2. 18m 20 From the right hand side of the ledge climb up for 2m using downward sloping holds. Next traverse right across the smooth face to a point where one can place a small nut in a vertical crack. Stretch across right for the piton (in place) which enables one to move right onto good holds. Traverse right and climb up the break to a large tree at the base of an obvious open book.

3. 25m 13 Climb up the open book exiting to the left. Move right over a short wall and then right around the corner. Climb the arete to the top.

Takes the impressive off-width crack through the roof just upstream of the cave next to ESCAPE ROUTE. The grade varies from 17 for a small climber with experience in off-width climbing, to 22 for a larger fellow!

1. 15m 20 Start from boulder left of the cave and climb left onto a ledge in the corner (wet in summer). Ascend the open book on a loose sounding flake to the roof. Enter the crack awkwardly and wriggle strenuously to the top.

2. ?m 6 Scramble right to ESCAPE ROUTE and descend.

This route starts 5m to the left of OVERDRAFT and takes the thin line through the centre of the orange face. (25m)

2m Right of THE FAVOURITE GAME is a F2 Corner, BEAUTIFUL LOSERS climbs the face and overhang 1m right of this corner. (Permission has been given to retrobolt this route as long as long as the first ascent remains.)

Start as for QUIVER DIRECT.

1. 45m 16 Climb the first pitch as for QUIVER DIRECT, then continue up in a vertical line to a large ledge, belay at the base of a steep jam crack.

2. 15m 20 Climb the crack, and finish through notch in short overhang. Belay on the broad ledge. Scramble to the top.

Note: Protection on the second pitch is excellent and climbing is strenuous.

Pack your leopard print broeks for this one. Climbs the impressive downstream facing wall on the next major buttress downstream from HIGH NOON. This is about 30m upstream of the roped boulder problem in the kloof. The base is guarded by fearsome ferns and barbed bushy brambles. Start to the right of these below a shallow weakness.

1. 25m 15 Climb the weakness to beneath a roof. Traverse left then up the slab, past the veg. Clamber up some blocks and traverse left and up to belay on a ledge below the right hand side of the impressive face.

2. 45m 20 Traverse left through a wide, bottomless recess and up to a shattered crack. Keep trending up and left in steps to reach a sloping ledge on the left skyline. Climb straight up to the hanging corner above. Use your leopard-print superpowers to climb this until able to step out left to a ledge. Either belay here or continue to the summit. Remember: you are more attractive than you think!

From the summit two convenient raps on the upstream side of the buttress put you back in the river.

The climb starts about 30m downstream of the prominent undercut buttress on which PRIVATE EYES is located, therefore being about 15m upstream of the wade pool at the lower end of the kloof. At the base of the climb is a cave-like recess, and at its' entrance a tree which is growing across the kloof. High above, and slightly to the left, is a prominent open book. The climb starts on the extremity of the left hand wall of the recess, the initial line being capped by a chockstone and cubbyhole at 5m.

1. 25m 20 Climb the vague recess on the left hand wall of the main recess to reach the cubbyhole. Traverse left to the first ledge, then move up and further left to second ledge. From this ledge climb the undercut vague open book, and take the recess above, to a tree at the base of the prominent open book.

2. 37m 16 Climb the open book to grass ledge and belay.

3. 15m 14 Climb short wall and blocks above to top.

This route is opposite The Vanguard (3 meters down stream on the true right). Follows a slopy line with some really amazing controlled movements and spectacular crimping climbing toward the top.

Directly opposite Enigma. This line has awesome juggy climbing with intricate movements spicing things up a little. Lower off chains have been provided to clean with a 60m (This is not a multipitch!!!). A 70 meter rope gets the climber down to the ledge where the first bolt is clipped, if the belayer joins him on the ledge. Please tie a knot in the end of your rope to avoid accidents from happening. Really worth the mission.

starts 4m right of RR on a rocky ledge in a corner. Tricky start.

RIGHT HAND FROM OVERHANG ONTO ERET

START 4M LEFT OF DUSTY UP OBVIOUS BLOCK

Start as per Balerion The Great. After the slab as you climb onto the main head wall, follow the bolts left to the perma-draws. 60m rope required.

Climb up the slab and right of the large tree before the headwall. Continue to follow the bolts along the crack system to the top perma-draw anchors.

On the south face of the prominent pinnacle below the slab. Access on the path to the left or abseil chains on the top of the pinnacle.

Climb the obvious arête on the left front of the pinnacle before the large fig tree.