Ascents in Asia having Beta

Super super run out

三年前我看着周老板的红线视频，只觉得真帅真牛逼，这辈子我都没可能碰。 ​去年年底来鸣水泉，爬完12+，趁着状态还在摸了摸线这条线路，动作做不出来+爆了个关键点，满满的绝望。 ​冬季狠狠黑练之后，抱着试试的心态重新回来奋斗，前几天被线路虐的屁滚尿流，难点甚至花了两整天都没分太明白。 随着时间推移，​逐渐把心态调整好，每把都尽力拼当做最后一把狠狠战斗，惊讶地发现每一把都有进步，逐渐燃起希望，今日细节拉满一把拿下！ ​最近进入红线模式压力还是挺大的，每天跑步的时候、睡前放空的时候都在脑子里回想一遍线路，甚至跟着思考做动作手型、精确到休息的时候身体姿势怎么摆、换手多少次...昨晚甚至一晚上都在做梦梦见自己在准备开爬...起床时都是懵懵的 ​很少这样如此投入和专注的搞线路啦，很荣幸成为第二个完成D14+这个级别的中国人，侥幸获得跟周老板并列干攀全国第一的体验卡一张，为期26h42min...

比较软的D7，镐点都非常稳。适合新手先锋。

拉爆了一个大点只能说没想象中那么简单。登山那些M6M7看起来是瞎定的

狠狠的抗 狠狠地休 反正就是顶住 艰难flash 耐力好就是为所欲为

climbed up wall R of chimney, L of some bolts, Joins top of chimney after 10m, On the first main butteress from hwy.

With back to Hwy Buttress on L, 2 pitches. Up wall then joins chimney on right.no gear on wall

good for warm up, may be an offlimits sign, you can inquire at the DoBongSan Chang

I PULLED THE KEY CRIMP OFF!!!!!!!!! I THINK ITS A 12C NOW.

did it with a bunch of trad gear.

Mega Very good

fun stuff

Beautiful views

Holiday grades?

just a couple of tricky bits, done solo

adventure on large cliff opposite wudu, alternative to sport climbs at main sidu wall

Ehh.

Multipitch to the R of Huge body crack, following bolts to top

so so cool.

Long hard hike. We were totally unprepared for the alpine-like conditions. It was a stinking hot humid summer in Japan and I went up this with open hiking sandals and a poncho. We were laughing about how over prepared people hiking down were with there full on one piece winter clothes and oxygen. We ended up in blizzard like rain and the wind was so strong you actually had to hold on to the chains. Lucky I had a jumper in my bag. Good times!

Round trip 5.5 hours, including 1hr up top for raman and stopping for all of Brittani's stamps.

Only did P1. Guide "stick-clipped" bolt 1 for me.

难点处可以Figure也可以Dyno。

权老师开线并完攀。周鹏老师重复。屋檐非常非常累。尝试数次都没能翻出屋檐。2021春天继续。

hard hard

3 pitch multipitch. Tried to dyno to the tufa on pitch 2. Literally don't see any other way to do it

I added 5 bolts to the route to eliminate the need for #5, #6. Take some nuts and if ur short a #5.

• 5.10a. 6 meters. 2 + 0 • Left of the Chochise Fake crack line. A two-bolt problem. Crux is between the first and the second bolt, and then eases up. Given grade is for the line starting with the crack to the right, and then moving along the bolt. Harder take-off is possible from directly below the bolt to the left of it, using a dish. • Anchors: Trees. • Tats with Ring for exit. • Route & FA by Sohan. Dec 3rd, 2022.

这就是D12的世界吗

终于搞定

先锋爬一次，一把一take快出屋檐了，狠狠感受12的世界。核心是真差啊

点贼多 爬的多早晚被降级哈哈 两把搞定 不过探索阶段爬的还挺吃力 后面已经发展到不用人工点干的方式了 阿软甚至徒步鞋随便嗨了

去年干了一个月 勉强分明白了动作 分三次take爬完 这次来抱着随手拿下的心态 被狠狠了虐了几天 不过因为兄弟们的到来（日巧软熊）分出来很多更简洁高效的动作 大幅提高了我的效率 早在六把前就从分线状态一下进入红线模式 不过由于自己的各种粗枝大叶和藐视不屑的心态频频失误（包括勾的不好强行出手、手腕没缠好等） 所幸今日第二把愉悦拿下 获得晚上可以吃最大的螃蟹的资格哈哈 我日今天状态神勇一把就搞定了比我先红 我上线前他说了一句话：“兄弟，要一起完成” 于是我拼成功了 完成的那一刻心里只有平静 这么久的奋斗 只觉努力终有收获 一切都是那么理所应当 感谢老板在干攀上的领路和无私的装备奉献（包括同行兄弟们的镐爪） 感谢摄影师rocker、蜗牛、博弈的大作和rocker的海鲜大餐 感谢兄弟朋友们（日巧软熊莉六熊吉小昭安妮）的陪伴和鼓励 感谢Sherry的远程心理辅导接收我乱七八糟的心理波动 今晚大家吹牛逼时说了一句话 国内干攀的前三人（老板、阿日、我）都在这个屋里了 有点嚣张 但好像也没毛病（干攀群体还是太少了哈哈） 还要继续努力 这条线国内干攀能力最强的变态三把就完成了 比他更变态的变态拿这个热身 任重而道远呐

完美的线路

4 pitches to avoid rope drag. Sketchy moves, polished footholds. Fun first pitch with a scary foot plant move just before the anchor.

Only made 1st two pitches. Anchor plate at the top of pitch two is seriously damaged, recommend bringing trad gear for extra security.

A four person, 8 pitch epic 14hrs bottom to top and down again. Bolted pitches are great climbing, after that it's a mad scramble of low grade trad leading over super sharp rock and scrub.

All day epic climb. Climbed the route as a team of 4. First four pitches: classic sport climbing. Pitch 1 & 2 strung together. The left bolt hanger of the anchor at pitch 3 is damaged, recommend bringing nat pro to reinforce. Pitch 4 the most technical with great moves over an overhanging stalactite. Higher pitches are Jungleneering: low-ish grade trad climbing (< French 5b) with lots of trees and sharp rock.

Longest climb ever, took me more then 10 hours to complete. 2nd pitch was hardest especially the traverse part.

p1 - went to rap station 5o'clock of anchor (shared w rock root). Should go to rock root. Hand jammed on crux!! Feels 6a.

p2 - natural line up glossy holds followed by rather sketchy right traverse. Anchors around the corner. Follow bolt line. Feels 6a+ / 6b. Esp. the traverse.

p3 - starting on stalactites (how to spell? lol) on left of pitch 2 anchors, follow bolt line up. Some bolts have surface rust but should be fine. Felt like short and physical 6a, but aik says it's a lil harder.

p4 - features exactly one bolt! Will need trad gear, around BD size 0.5 - 2 cams. The start has no bolt line, so we took the middle crack up over the overhanging block (might want to look out for loose blocks). Afterwards, there's an obvious (rather pretty) crack line (w 1 bolts) to a ledge, from where you'll spot the anchors. Lots of fun (but lil sharp) hand jams!!

Rap stations were well placed. Slight swinging as usual. We ended at p4 because it looked like ugly jungleneering from there onwards.

540 meters of rock climbing a day seems doable, as they were a few grades easier then what I usually do for sport climbing, either single or multi pitches. But it turned out I had drastically underestimated the exhausting continuousness, the extra heavy load, and the intimation from not being able to see the next bolt.

The threat of the sunset kept adding a sense of urgency, while we still fell to climb the last 3 pitches followed by a 5th class in the dark, and finally pulled our tired bodies over the summit.

beautiful climbing route, but lots of run out, could be scary if you don't have prior experiences. We climbed way too slow than planned, ended up climbing last 4 pitches in the dark, it was easy climbing but didn't feel too good climbing in the dark, route finding was OK, but not super easy. I liked the climb, but could do better and had a better experience on there.

依然很无耻的抓了几次挂 不过除了抓挂路段之外很愉悦 已经适应了七八米一个保护的感觉 甚至走错路导致非常极限的solo了一整段10a.. 期待下次完全free掉

洞穴寓言的左边是叛逆的灵魂，两条线路在第五段左右距离比较近，我们在爬的时候不小心爬到了叛逆的灵魂。两条线路的顶是不一样的，洞穴寓言是有钢链的，叛逆的灵魂是用绳圈连接的。 我们带了一套0.1到3号的塞子，如果不要两段连爬且线路不是能力极限，够用了。 接近路线，有一条从茂打洛上山的路，海拔提升平缓，小路明显，相对于路书上的接近路线更好走。从山顶下撤路线很陡峭，最好不要摸黑下撤，有一定的危险性。 线路质量很高，需要丰富的经验，全面的技术和过硬的心理素质。希望大家在这条线路上玩的开心。