Ascents in Reaper Buttress having Beta

So good!! Very bold up the seam! Really classic climbing up for the face for the second pitch

Felt hard!

Mega!

Definitely type-2 fun!

Gear beta: If you thrutch up the chimney crux near the start, a number 5 or 6 cam (or both!) make it a pretty reasonable climb in terms of protection. Without, you'd be looking at a substantial runout through some hairy climbing.

This is one of the best 25's at the mount.

Very run out, bailed onto Josies anchors at halfway point.... dodgy AF!

Seconding Simmo. Climbed as a giant 50m pitch. Absolutely awesome in this manner, eith a super cool finale up the face.

Actually climbed the rotten juggy overhang to the top of Reaper Buttress from the Red Parrot rap chains but it isn't in the crag

I did Josie's Climb on and off up the way. Weird route

Climbed exactly as I thought it would looking from the ground. Dirty, awkward chimney climbing, with a few brief desperate thrutches past the bulges, followed by more straight forward bridge/face climbing to the chains.

Pro was definitely there, but took some meandering to find, leading to an absolute mess of rope drag. Bring your longest slings.

I really don't know how to feel about this. There was and great climbing mixed with terrible protection and skin ripping chimneys. I think I recommend it, strongly recommend not wearing shorts.

Absolute classic and "on" for an awful long time. You can blow it 5m in, 37m in or frankly any number of places in between.

Nothing harder than V2/3, but there's nearly 100 (hand) moves on this route so employ a good memory if - like me - you're not blessed with massive amounts of power.

Linked most of Incest from the ground, then the rest of Incest + the first two cruxes of TSD, then was cactus and did shorter sections to the top.

Further to the previous discussion around grade I (personally) feel like 26 is about right for the simple reason that you need to not stuff it up (which is very easy to do) for such a long time. (Way, way harder - and better - than Anus Horribilus). Not 27 though, because I'm a chance on this which disqualifies it.

What a blast. First pitch is quite good. Second pitch I managed clean to the crux, tried a few different sequences but by the time I worked it out was gassed and punted off. Went back to belay, pulled the rope and tried again. Ended up briefly dislocating my shoulder through the crux but held on and pulled the remainder of the moves to end up groveling through the crack. There's a fixed cam at the crux on this route that we couldn't get out, might be blocking a key hold? 10/10 would relocate again.

Ben took some mighty whips at the crux.

as weird as it comes. party of three, so lead to some good musical ropes. so close to the onsight on both pithces, just got a little too pumped hanging around so took on 1st and 2nd pitches just to sus things then pulled through them both ok. amazing, will have to come back to get it proper

Did a variation including the fixed hanger at bottom and a fun arete at the top, best climb I've found at araps so far for easyish Enduro 60ish meters of consistent climbing

Great route! Felt a bit hard for 22 ran out of light to workout the second pitch Crux so bailed off. Will come back for sure

Alzheimer's

onsighted P1. froze my ass off at the belay for an hour after Leigh realised he needed a pre-climb weight loss/toilet stop. Icy immobile muscles led to a fall seconding P2 after committing to wrong beta. will have to come back for the full tick

Couldn’t figure out the last hard bit. First time taking on a cam!!

A very fun climb drawing two stars from me. I fell off at the end of the crux (which is the first 5m of the climb) as I made an error with my footwork. Got back on and up after a brief reprieve.

The second pitch was the real highlight. Airy jugs on awesome rock was a fantastic way to end the easter weekend.

The guide book says 18, the crag 20. It might just be that it was the end of day three but I would say it was a solid 20. Definitely well worth your time though and it is well protected at the crux with a bolt (may want to stick clip it).

Really good i reckon totally underrated with 1 star. Tricky slab crux on the first pitch had a really cool solution. P2 was a corker and very glad to have got behind the wheel for this one. A very exposed run out traverse with gr 15 climbing after a funky corner chimney and an easy but cool layback flake to the ledge. After the girdle across to the anchor, we almost came unstuck with a hanging rap but lucky rope stretch saved the day. Thanks gretchy for the rack!

So classic!!!

Quite an experience! Second pitch is nicely exposed, with some amusing rope drag.

Done over 2 days with a jug out and in to the first pitch anchors cos light was fading yesterday. A wild time on the wall was had. Grats to kyle for the onsight. Some of my highlights included a dyno to a slung rp on the first pitch where i couldnt do the crux move, a distinct low point trying to dismantle the wires from the anchor that had been up overnight, one nut even resisted some frustrated hammer bashing for a bit. A nice big wall experience on a pretty small wall. Great climb.

This is another awesome wall and great looking route, I just did the crux totally wrong and got in some positions that made it very difficult. Also did it all in one pitch, clipping the pitons creates a lot of drag so some big slings are needed

Harrie’s last day, so hitting his tick list. Did it in one big pitch. Think it would be better to use double ropes than try get slings right.

There’s a couple of fixed pieces that would probably come out with a little bit of work too - I just decided to tick the route (even on toprope) instead of sitting on the rope to get it out

Thin for a bit

Good stuff!

Epic!

Led pitch 2 and 3 with epic exposure!

Wild and awesome.

Didn’t read correct sequence, quite intimidating.

Really enjoyed this one, 2 great engaging pitches if you rap off from the chain level with pitch 2

What a great number and with the legend himself

I don’t like the first 3M of bouldering moves which I fell, then I got the rest all in one pitch. Nice enough gear, spaced out face.

First pitch gets a star for the funky start, second pitch for the exposure. Last pitch is ass.