A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran Campbell Gome Glenn Tempest Douglas Hockly Luen Warneke Andrew Clark Iain Duggin Wendy Eden Lassi Mark Wood
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge 19 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge 19 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area
access issues
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Through the Tulips
Up slab to roof and through. Start: Starts where slab is steepest just right of No Charlie. FA: Smith, Hoskins, Martin Bride & Pritchard, 1995 | 18 | 10m | |||||
2 |
No Charlie, It Wasn't
Left edge of left wall of alcove. | 4 | 10m | |||||
3 |
Beer and Trembling
Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left FA: Greg Pritxchard & Nicki Sunderland, 1992 | 8 | 10m | |||||
4 |
Falling Numbers
Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake. FA: Greg Pritchard & Phil Wilkins, 1993 | 8 | 20m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 |
★ Free Beer
"You can lead them to free beer but you can't make them climb." Greg might have more takers if the free beer was kept until after the climbing. FA: Greg Pritchard & Phil Wilkins, 1993 | 18 | 30m | |||||
6 |
Chookfest 93
Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab. FA: Greg Pritchard, Jon Muir, Graeme Sigh & Annette Jone, 1993 | 12 | 30m | |||||
7 |
★ Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start
Obvious left diagonal to thin crack | 8 | 30m | |||||
8 |
★ Pritchard The Almost Unstoppable New Route Machine
Start at 'Tiptoe Ridge' DS, but take short, wide right-leading diagonal through bulge. FA: Jon Muir, Greg Pritchard, Graeme Singh & Annette Jones, 1993 | 18 | 30m | |||||
9 |
Father Figure
The short orange wall just left of Bossy Mothers eases quickly (stay R of the loose juggy line). Easier climbing then continues up the pleasant slabby grey wall above. At the top move over R to the anchors above Bossy Mothers. FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Sep 2014 | 18 | 16m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★ Bossy Mothers
Reachy start to gain crack which maintains its interest. FA: Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey, 1981 | 20 | 15m, 1 | |||||
11 |
★ Just Out of Habit
Start left of arch and move up and right to finish up grey streak to 'Bossy Mothers' anchor. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 23 | 20m | |||||
12 |
Cruella de Ville
Thin rightward leading seam right of Just Out Of Habit. FA: Robin Miller & Andrea Hayes, 1986 | 20 | 15m | |||||
13 |
His Master's Vice
Scramble up right of Cruella De Ville and follow line just right of it. Move left uner overhang to easier finishing crack. FA: Chris Baxter & Phil Swainson, 1986 | 15 | 15m | |||||
14 |
Llama Sutra
Climb middle of very small south-facing wall of subsidiary pinnacle behind dead tree. FA: Greg Pritchard & Nicky Sunderland, 1992 | 16 | 8m | |||||
15 |
★ PearI Jam
Crack, curving left to exit on orange, north-facing wall. FA: Greg Pritchard & Phil Wilkins, 1992 | 16 | 16m | |||||
16 |
Let Them Eat Ralph
Wall 1 metre right of Pearl Jam, right, up back left above Pearl Jam. FA: Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 1992 | 19 | 15m | |||||
17 |
★ Ordinary Trees
"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinary trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'. Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.
FA: Greg Pritchard & punters from Melb. Uni, 1993 | 6 | 140m, 4 | |||||
18 |
★★ Introductory Route
The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'. The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed. Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.
FA: Doug Angus, Bob Craddock & Peter Jackson, 1963 | 5 | 140m, 4 | |||||
19 | Barren Waste | 13 | 170m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
4 | No Charlie, It Wasn't | 10m | |||
5 | ★★ | Introductory Route | 140m, 4 | ||
6 | ★ | Ordinary Trees | 140m, 4 | ||
8 | Beer and Trembling | 10m | |||
Falling Numbers | 20m | ||||
★ | Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start | 30m | |||
12 | Chookfest 93 | 30m | |||
13 | Barren Waste | 170m | |||
15 | His Master's Vice | 15m | |||
16 | Llama Sutra | 8m | |||
★ | PearI Jam | 16m | |||
18 | Father Figure | 16m | |||
★ | Free Beer | 30m | |||
★ | Pritchard The Almost Unstoppable New Route Machine | 30m | |||
Through the Tulips | 10m | ||||
19 | Let Them Eat Ralph | 15m | |||
20 | ★ | Bossy Mothers | 15m, 1 | ||
Cruella de Ville | 15m | ||||
23 | ★ | Just Out of Habit | 20m |