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Siren Area Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Luen Warneke Phil Laukens Dave Scarlett Matt Brooks Andrew Clark Alex Holroyd Nathan Murdoch

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Siren Area 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
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F
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A
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S
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Seasonality

All Trad climbing

description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area

access issues

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

inherited from Arapiles

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Artemis

Starts at Siren’s first belay.

  1. 40m (12). Starts directly behind the dead Cypress Pine. Climb the middle of the face. (crux). At first ledge, set up belay.

  2. 40m (12) Directly up, to right hand end of the Eagles Eyrie. Taking the small left facing corner and then up juggy wall to top.

FA: Pete Holmes, Jack Jane & Colin Hoad, 2 Jun 2017

12 Trad 80m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Siren

A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner.

Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

  1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree, as for the first pitch of Introductory Route.

  2. 35m (8) Move right and up a little crack then follow prominent right-leading diagonal to a spectacular ledge on the arete. Note that the climb originally climbed the latter part of this pitch out right near the arete, now included in the second pitch of Xena.

  3. 35m (8) A mildly terrifying step across the void leads to easy climbing diagonally right. A few tricky moves then lead to a comfortable ledge below the big corner, with DRB.

  4. 25m (6) Up corner to next ledge or carry on up the next pitch.

  5. 25m (9) Up corner which finishes with a few rounded layback moves, then continue up little wall and belay on terrace.

From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11.

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963

9 Trad 150m, 5
3 Siren Direct Finish

Definitely the best way to climb Siren, especially as it only has one move at grade 12 and creates one of the best easy corner pitches anywhere!

  1. 25m (4) As for Siren

  2. 35m (8) As for Siren

  3. 35m (8) As for Siren

  4. 50m (12) Brilliant corner as for Siren but instead of stopping at the belay at 25m, continue up and step right through the rooflet and on to more glorious corner above. Belay on major ledge. From here either walk of left or...

  5. 10m (11) Walk left along the ledge to the small right-facing corner and finish up this for full value.

FA: Ian Guild & Doug Hatt.., 1964

12 Trad 180m, 5
4 Siren Left Wall

The left wall of the 'Siren' corner is very obvious but is not quite as good as it looks. The old bolts need replacing.

FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter, 1965

15 Mixed trad 30m, 2
5 Xena

Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.

  1. 35m (8) Up to and over crack and up left line in wall to juggy ground. Continue up steep wall just left of arete to incut ledge looking out over 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  2. 22m (9) Climb up just left of arete to big ledge (Siren's second belay) and continue to next ledge on left a couple of metres further up.

  3. 23m (5) Easy ground to ledge below headwall.

  4. 30m (10) Step right, then steeply up on good holds. Up, tending slightly left.

FA: Simon Mentz & Glenn Tempest

10 Trad 110m, 4
6 Tales of Brave Ulysses

A good finishing pitch. Often done as a finish to 'Creon' but can be easily reached via the ledge system the crosses the face at 60 metres.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Keith Egerton, 1978

18 Trad 40m
7 Tauraroa

Follows the chimney-corner bounding the left edge of the left Watchtower face after starting up Hot Flap's first pitch, then the chimney-gully forming the left side of the Siren buttress.

FA: John Bennett & MUMC team. 1960s, 2000

9 Trad 120m, 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
9 Siren Trad 150m, 5
Tauraroa Trad 120m, 4
10 Xena Trad 110m, 4
12 Artemis Trad 80m, 2
Siren Direct Finish Trad 180m, 5
15 Siren Left Wall Mixed trad 30m, 2
18 Tales of Brave Ulysses Trad 40m
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