Ascents in Katoomba Cliffs as Red point

Great position and fun moves on some slightly chossy rock. The thread is necessary, but i carried cams and only placed one which happened to be right next to an unseen bolt. First move is indeed hard, had to try it twice to get it. Onsight from there

The line is unquestionably primo. The climbing itself was like questing up a slimey waterslide at Raging Waters.

I slowly greased out of a right jam on the crux transition a couple of times before pulling the rope and sending it. Crack gloves next time

A memorable ascent, although I might wait for a couple of seasons of glorious El Niño conditions before repeating this one.

First time on lead. Even better and a bit exciting

Day 6 for the Redpoint!

I really wanted to come back and improve the style on this. Firstly, because I think mine is the first repeat of the route, and secondly, because this route is both harder and scarier to do it placing the gear (the former for P1, the latter for P2)... It's also proud enough that it warrants the extra effort.

So, as you might imagine, I'm pretty chuffed to have gotten this done, and in pretty good style.

Full disclosure: I did have the first few pieces of gear clipped off the belay at the start of each pitch.

Quote of the day:

"Don't get upset if I start freaking out; I'm weak, wimpy Frothy, not bold, strong Zackie"

Repeat -P3 only. Returning to clean up the style of the ascent of P3, now that it's not pouring with water.

Gr22 for P3 seems fair when it's in condition. Awesome roofing protected by a crappy hanger, a #3. a #0.4, and nothing else. Has a bold-ish vibe.

One of the last known great lines in the Blueys, and one of my proudest FA's to date. Exposed, scary, great rock, long, and with radical climbing (especially on the crux arete pitch). The crux in particular has some of the wildest arete-slapping/trickery that I've done in my entire climbing career.

Done over about 8 days of effort in total. I originally led the crux pitch as two shorter pitches (27 and 26 respectively) via a hanging belay, before coming back to eliminate the belay and do it properly.

Laps. This time placing the crux gear, which I somehow haven’t done yet despite being up it so many times.

Never in doubt, but it was wetter than last time so I had a moment or two on the layback. Henry onsighted P4 without much rest after P3 - top work!

“I was trying to get on to Echo Crack…”, read a message from Zac. I did a double take.

“Either tomorrow or next weekend”, read the next one.

And so it began. “Tomorrow” and next weekend, and the weekend after and… Considering how many days our happy little vertical conga line has spent hanging around here, we’ve done cockatoo’s diddly squat actual climbing (and I've taken just as many photos).

Yesterday unravelled in much the same way. I quickly discovered that:

1. If your 3:1 rig lets you play ‘Twinkle Twinkle Little Star’ on the rap line, it is indeed “proper stuck, dude”,

2. I suck at rock-paper-jumars,

3. My life is worth a fist-bump.

But I accepted my fate, and quietly began jugging my rope, clipping my gear and shitting my pants. Back at the alcove (after freeing the rap and going down again for P3) we found ourselves armed with one bosuns chair and one headlamp, which are about as useful as a coconut and a mandolin when the sun begins to set.

Oh, “and the send?” you ask. Yep, I was happy to get P4 clean, but the highlight (punny right?) of the day was Zac seconding it in total darkness without a headlamp. He will deny, but I’m convinced it was all a secret plot to boost his employability with a certain physiotherapy clinic, for which he is only a few wooden chocks away.

2021 January, 1st lead attempt

Stoked! All pitches climbed clean 1st shot today, placing all gear on lead for the true Trad Redpoint tick! As usual, I climb so much better when there's real consequences, and I felt fully engaged and mentally strong the whole way up. Having said that, the tenuous moves above dubious gear on P1 was a slightly gripping warmup, and the excitingly huge runout above gear during the top crux of P2 was a tad ball-shriveling. On the 2nd pitch I used 5 bits of pro and 3 bolts in 40m! A great route in an old-school style, for those who have the time (and dedication) to approach it with the original Warwick Baird mentality: over-inspected and under-protected

Holy shit balls. Fucking terrifying. First two pitches only. Attempted hammerless ascent. Don't try this at home.

FFA.

the cavalcade of foreign tourists give this climb a circus feel. Don't forget the clown shoes and red nose on this op. Be prepared to be asked to do some summersaults or tight rope walking.

Shame we can't do this anymore. Good intro to multipitch, also fun solo tick for the adventurous.

Solo, with Andrew Penney. 40 mins car-to-car

why not?