★★ Little Jug of Happiness 21

A mighty line tamed by stainless steel. Unknown to Mikl (who bolted it), 'barefoot' Brian Burford had led the 2nd pitch 12 years previously - ground up on trad. Apparently he is happy to have it bolted now so put away those angle grinders tradsters! An easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs.

1. 25m (18) Easy sandy horizontals up the left wall of the left corner past many U-bolts. Either lower off first anchor or climb up and right over shale explosion to second anchor bolts at base of corner.

2. (21) Up right facing corner to ledge, then left facing corner to final undercling moves. Juggy on good rock. Don't lower off, it would be terrifying and your rope would run over all sorts of scariness. Best to lead and second this pitch. Pull over the top and there's a pair 'U' bolts at the back of the ledge.

3. (12) Up wall on left past a ring to trees and ledge. Walk right 40m to rejoin walk-down. If going to top from here, go up the gully 10m and walk right.

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.