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Ascents in Sublime Point as Tick by Macciza a.k.a. Macca

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Showing all 4 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Fri 4th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls
20 21 Smack My Pitch Up - with zachary vertrees, Michael Croker Sport 120m Good
Hmmm not bad... bit of a ‘weird scenes inside the goldmine’ type day ... Route is a bit over bolted imho but most probably like it like that. Swung pitches...

 
2012 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Shady Wall
21 Consumer Eve Sport 20m, 9
21 Shady Lady Sport 32m, 15
Wed 19th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
25 26 R Thumbs Out Trad 23m Classic
Extended Gear Beta for ground-up attempts...

Ignore if you wish to go for the complete onsight.

Read on if you wish for bit more safety...

Small cam and C3 00/Metolius Offset 0 protect up to the roof. Good old style BD 4 or reasonable DMM in slot in corner of roof, equalised with WC 0 offset in roof... Optional Black Totem around the roof to left. Climb through the roof.

Medium wire and small cam in corner crack above roof. WC Offset 2.5 or maybe a similar Metolius/Totem in strange pocket to right. Traverse right a few metres to below crux. Good Red DMM, not Totem, in horizontal that uses the best part of the hold, and/or small wires/ micro cams in thin horizontal above. This is the crux gear here, and has been fallen on...

Climb through crux. Optional Red Totem after the crux but could cause problems if being seconded. Yellow to Silver DMMs should cover the rest. Belay, Purple to Yellow Totems.

Tie in to both ends of a rope (or two ropes) and use one for first section only. Clip second rope into black Totem (if used) and the good gear in crack above roof. Find rest with knee bar assist and untie first rope then climb on. This manoeuvre avoids rope drag across lip of roof. You could also solo up the face to the left, traverse over and place/pre-clip this gear to pre-protect the start if that fits your ethics.. YMMV.

My trad ascent back in the day was with a rest before the crux, 24M0. Good luck, stay solid, make sure your gear is good, have fun and try not to break your ankles... Cheers...

 

Showing all 4 ascents.

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