Ascents in Mount Buffalo as Tick or First ascent

Very hot in the sun. Take lots of #3 camalots. A great lead by Ian around the crux roof and final slab to finish.

terrifying but so worth it. 4 pitches to top of pinnacle, 9 hours car to car. so much of the first two pitches was offwidth for me, which was definitely character-building.

Full value 17! I've never had to work so hard on a multi, pretty much sustained climbing the whole way. As echoed by the previous comments make sure you have ankle protection.

This route has everything! Hand jams thin and loose, fists, hand/fist, off width, tight worm chimney, strange 3D stemming, scary slab traverse, tight finger jams with a crux so tight I could only fit in a pinky.

Most pitches felt much harder than the grade listed. If you can't jam, you won't make it 😂

Next time, bring a #5 (and/or more than two #4's) and more than three #3's. We took five #2, five #1, four green, four purple plus doubles down to .2 and we used it all! Really no need for wires.

tried to lead, placed the merlin but bailed when the chimney turned into an offwidth and i didn't really know how to proceed. brutal.

Abseiled to Big Grassy from lookout. Fixed the ab rope to belay at the end of pitch 6 (before traverse left) and at nice belay on arête after the corner on pitch 5 on the way down.

Pretty rad to be down playing on this wall. Not sure how many opportunities i’ll have to try the route whilst working on this film about Duncan with Tristan and Tom for TNF but was cool to have a play as Duncan rested. Seconded pitch one first go which was pretty chill and then did three back to back laps on the 25 pitch. I went up it first to figure it out and fell off a few times, came down to the stance just above the balancy start and climbed from there to the top but figured I should do it properly so lowered back down to the belay and did it pulling the rope through the grigri the whole time which was a bit brutal. Hopefully it feels easier on lead.

Abseiled into big grassy! 1 shivering night on the ledge, freed 90% despite dogging every pitch other then the 24 and the troll toll hole to sunshine glory. Dave really was the MVP - the power of friendship got this one done! A little above my pay grade but stoked to aim to free this rig with little to no climbing of late

Definately a mixed-bag adventure. P1 - O/S, okay climbing up a left leaning corner crack, but extremely mossy, dirty and vegetated. P2 - 2nd Clean, balancy and techy off belay, hard flared crack to stance, and sustained technical jamming to the belay. A bit dirty but still climbable. P3 - Dog, one BIG fall between last 2 bolts on committing steep layback. Very spaced bolts and gear. Consistant, sustained and varied climbing on this looong wandery pitch. Balancy and mossy towards the top.

First pitch was no worries. Second pitch took a bit of figuring out. Did the roof section, but flailed up the wall.

took a few goes

This is an excellent pitch of climbing.

It was brushed feb 2022

A really great route, has it all. If the dyno start doesn't look like your flavor then tension traverse across to the crack as the rest of the route is incredible. Alternatively, climb Caligula (corner to the left) up to the slab then transfer across right into the easier crack to enjoy the seam on pitch two, but you'd be cheating yourself. Sustained jamming and thin seam traversing, well protected with thin gear. A good gauge if your thinking of doing hard rain as the difficulty is comparable.

Note: The picture draws the traverse on pitch two a little low, its after that tree from memory, but its pretty hard to miss the seam.

Hard, very hard on feet and hards, must know how to butterfly...gear is perfect though

Awesome, super exposed, hard, clean, classic and long

Brilliant. Took the gravy train after leading first pitch behind Mr Luck. Awesome route

excellent route, bloody hard near top

Alt leads with Mark M. 1980

hard, runout

Slab climbing is wonderful!

This route is the best multipitch I've done in Australia. If you like trad climbing then look no further, quality moves from top to bottom through clean granite flake systems with jamming, slabbing, laybacking and everything inbetween. Done as three pitches (link 3,4) its also a pretty casual day out for how epic the line/position is. It's listed as an aid climb here but its just a simple transfer between crack systems across the first belay.

Wanted to give a bit of info as the guide can be a little tricky:

To see the route from above: go to the climbers lookout (the rocky lookout on your left looking out from bents lookout) then look for the crack system that curves up directly under bents lookout.

Abseil access: To the right of bents lookout (looking out) there is a gumtree between you and the next lookout, sling this and fix a 70m rope there then slab across under bents lookout (climbers right) to three shiny ringbolts on the other side of the slab. Clove hitch the rope to one (or more) of these bolts so your partner can come across on a fixed line then rap down the redirected single line from the bolts. You'll get to the bolted hanging belay at the end of pitch one. Leave the fixed line and rap from these bolts with your climbing rope to the start of pitch one leaving the anchor in place. Once you finish the climb, you can use the fixed line to get back across the slab to the gumtree and froth on the day you've just had!

Really can't stress how good this route is, holy moly.

6 #2 cams for P1.

Classic layback flake, good pro

fresh from Yosemite trip so handle it Ok