Malabar Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Martijn van Eijkelenborg Patrick Burr Graham Dowden Stathi Jordon James saunders Henry J Herm. Adam Ullman

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1. Malabar 38 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. Malabar 38 routes in Sector

Summary:

Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.965995, 151.257036

description

Collection of easy climbs in a beautiful location. Some shade until early arvo. Climbs all stay pretty dry except in large swell.

Climbs described as you get to them from the beach following the shoreline.

access issues

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

inherited from New South Wales and ACT

approach

Park at the East end of Fishermans Rd. The sector with The Prown is directly below the carpark (down the ramp turn right), the slab sector is a 200m walk along the shoreline towards the ocean (down the ramp and straight ahead) and the sector with Alladin (nicest) is another 50m along. Approach can give you wet feet in high tide if you walk in from the beach.

	Route	Grade	Style
The prown sector Just below the car park – walk down the boat ramp and turn right (towards the beach) or walk in from the beach. This sector is a bit wet at peak tide.
2	Waterever Knob to top.	V0	Boulder 4m
3	Somefin Undercling start	V0	Boulder 4m
4	Nofin Left of wet streak. Friction undercling start	V2	Boulder 4m
5	Dolfin Right of wet streak. Hop up to start edge under white patch and topout.	V2	Boulder 4m
6	Flukes Stand start at flakes.	V2	Boulder 4m
7	★ The Prown Standstart	V1	Boulder 4m
tidal dependence These climbs are just left (beachside) of the boat ramp. Climbable only at low tide – at high tide the boulder are half underwater!
9	New moon Accessible at low tide only. Stand start from block	V0	Boulder
10	★★ Lunatic Only at low tide. Stand start at layback and scoop, delicate move up and left and topout. Careful of sandstone choss at the very top, can bail by traversing left 1 meter.	V2	Boulder
pre-slabs Pre-slabs are 150 meters towards the ocean form the boat ramp. At high tide you may have scramble to the high track and scramble back down. Find the 90 degree block, the pre-slabs and the overhang are just in front of it.
12	★ Jam Slab Two solid hand jams in the overhanging crack then fight your way past the Westringia. Absolutely no slab engagement but you might want to tape up for this shredder. FA: Graham Dowden, 30 May 2017	V1	Boulder 4m
13	Unslab Where the legs ends, up the obvious crack. No stars! FA: Patrick Burr	V0+	Boulder 4m
14	★ De-slab Follow the shallow weakness trending rightwards. Arete/crack on the right it right out! Double top-out for good measure.	V2	Boulder 4m
15	Layback slab Trad-like corner	V0+	Boulder 4m
90-degree block The following climbs are on the 90 degree block. The vertical flakes look very delicate but are surprisingly strong. Still, best to avoid the thinnest flakes or those that are not beaten by the sun.
17	★ Multifacet Straight up the agonisingly thin facets on the west side of '90-degree block'. The entire difficult of the climb lies in not breaking any facets. FA: Graham Dowden, 30 May 2017	V0-	Boulder 3m
18	★ Normal The seaside overhung arete. Hard sit start on vertical holds, straight up the arete. FA: Patrick Burr	V1	Boulder 3m
19	Perpendicular Half a meter right of normal. Stand start on vertical holds, straight up. FA: Patrick Burr	V0	Boulder
20	★ Orthogonal Start inside the scoop/cave, swing out to jugs and then up FA: Patrick Burr	V1	Boulder 3m
21	★ Pitagora Start as for orthogonal, but then keep on traversing right to easier topout. FA: Patrick Burr	V0	Boulder
22	★★ Half a pie Traverse counterclockwise the overhanging half of the 90 degree block. The good bit starts seaside, 1 meter left off normal. FA: Patrick Burr	V2	Boulder
23	★ Limpet Traverse overhang from right to left along the lip. Could add a top out at the end at V3ish. FA: Patrick Burr, 28 May 2017	V2	Boulder
Slabs Around the corner, 20 m form the 90 degree block.
25	★★ Rosso malpelo Red thin slab left of sandy white block. 5 meters left of red slab. FA: Patrick Burr	V3	Boulder
26	★★ Red Slab Start on the shallow hole. Straight up to sloper rail. Jump off or traverse out left or right.	V3	Boulder 3m
27	Green Slab Just left of the seeping streak. Touch greens at top. Climb down or jump.	V1	Boulder 3m
28	Wet slab If not wet, provides easy descent for RS and GS.	V0	Boulder 3m
29	★ Black Slab just right of seeping streak. Start on hole on right and move to hole on left (reachy) and up.	V2	Boulder 3m
Alladin and Odin 50 meters towards the ocean again. Fun powerful moves. Some of the sitstart rail may still crumble off, but most of it should be good now.
31	Lamp smoke Sitstart up zigzag streak to sloper rail	V1	Boulder 3m
32	Alladin Straight up. Finish on high jug.	V0	Boulder 4m
33	Genie Right tending iron band. Standstart. No stars	V1	Boulder 3m
34	★ Vicky Left corner sitstart.	V2	Boulder 3m
35	★★ The Viking sitstart left of hole. Straight up.	V1	Boulder 3m
36	★★ Odin's Eye Sitstart under big hole. Top just left of hole w knee bar	V2	Boulder 3m
37	★★ Wodan sitstart little flake. Tad left and up	V3	Boulder 3m
38	★ Frigg Right corner. Sitstart	V1	Boulder 3m
39	★ Thor Traverse from Frigg to Vicky.	V3	Boulder
40	★ Dream pipes Traverse from Vicky to Frigg	V3	Boulder
Malabar Rock Pool At the south side of the bay where the Malabar rock pool is there are a few good climbs.
42	★ Stay off the Bench Sit start. Take care with the mantle and the bench.	V3	Boulder 4m
43	★★★ Off The Hook Sit start. Up past the towel hooks.	V4	Boulder 4m
44	OW Stand start about 4m left of Off The Hook, about 1m left of the white rock, where OW was carved in the rock. Up to the hole in the black rock and topout.	V2	Boulder 4m
The wall near the pool shower is great for kids to try some bouldering.
46	The Hook Overhang start, climb over edge to top. 100m from boat ramp FA: Stathi, 2 Dec 2018	V2	Boulder
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2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
V0-	★	Multifacet	Boulder 3m
V0		Alladin	Boulder 4m
		New moon	Boulder
		Perpendicular	Boulder
	★	Pitagora	Boulder
		Somefin	Boulder 4m
		Waterever	Boulder 4m
		Wet slab	Boulder 3m
V0+		Layback slab	Boulder 4m
		Unslab	Boulder 4m
V1	★	Frigg	Boulder 3m
		Genie	Boulder 3m
		Green Slab	Boulder 3m
	★	Jam Slab	Boulder 4m
		Lamp smoke	Boulder 3m
	★	Normal	Boulder 3m
	★	Orthogonal	Boulder 3m
	★	The Prown	Boulder 4m
	★★	The Viking	Boulder 3m
V2	★	Black Slab	Boulder 3m
	★	De-slab	Boulder 4m
		Dolfin	Boulder 4m
		Flukes	Boulder 4m
	★★	Half a pie	Boulder
	★	Limpet	Boulder
	★★	Lunatic	Boulder
		Nofin	Boulder 4m
		OW	Boulder 4m
	★★	Odin's Eye	Boulder 3m
		The Hook	Boulder
	★	Vicky	Boulder 3m
V3	★	Dream pipes	Boulder
	★★	Red Slab	Boulder 3m
	★★	Rosso malpelo	Boulder
	★	Stay off the Bench	Boulder 4m
	★	Thor	Boulder
	★★	Wodan	Boulder 3m
V4	★★★	Off The Hook	Boulder 4m

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Malabar 38 routes in Sector

2. Index by grade