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Unit block Guide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 42
  • Aka: Paddington
  • Aka: Little Sutherland boulder

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Krishna Lee McDougall Upton Josh Mennell Benjamin Firth Postman Liren Wang Ed Jazz

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Unit block 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.882220, 151.232889

description

Micro crag consisting of traversing and short up probs and eliminates. Good climbing for the inner city as the wall is around 20 to 30 degrees with a nice bulge running through the right side of the wall. Not the most attractive of areas but good climbing nonetheless. About eight to ten metres in length and 3m low point 4m high point. All problems top out. This spot is overgrown now. Bring some pruning tools, gloves and brushes. Is a good spot if you live locally.

access issues

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

inherited from New South Wales and ACT

approach

To be found at Sutherland avenue Paddington beside a big block of flats. 7min from edgecliff station and short walk from cascade street from the bus stop.

history

Development started around 2009 or 10 by Krishna Thorburn as a way of coping with the immanent birth of his little girl. Around 10 plus problems exist with half a dozen still to be done. Currently the established problems are for v1 to v5 aprox with a few harder projects to be completed. Will try and get a few more done before I move on. Move!! Gana miss this spot!!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Knuckle heads traverse

8 to 10 metre traverse. Stand start left to right. done right to left makes it a tad easier but not as good. Also a sit start below the stand start from a right three finger pocket and left under cling pinch.

FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2011

V5 Boulder
2 Little knuckles

Far right last chuck of kht. Sit start on the feature up and trav right to the end of the wall.

FA: Krishna, 2011

V3 Boulder 3m
3 Jug head

Crimpy eliminate. Beautiful prob requires a touch of finesse. All the big holds are out for hands and feet. Accept the hold at the top of the wall. Total classic

FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2012

V5 Boulder 3m
4 Muffin top

Same start as for little knuckles , but straight up and over bolge with a cool big move.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 2011

V4 Boulder 3m
5 Big holds climb

Up the large holds rightwards with a nice big move to the top and interesting topout.

FA: Krishna, 2011

V1 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Kht hook start variant

Adds a low traversing start from the big jug 3rd of the way on the lower part of the wall moving right to left and up into the stand start and then continue to the far right and top out. The best variation and hardest one done so far. Was thinking v5 at first but I think the standard traverse is more like v5 and this variation adds a v3 or 4 to the start. Puppy sustained number.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 2013

V6 Boulder
7 Vase glarz

From the big jug 3rd of the way along the wall traverse right through the blank arch and the pounce to the lip

FA: Krishna thorburn, 2013

V5 Boulder 3m
8 Good fun one

Start on the L shaped feature either up to the pocket to lip then move slightly rightwards and up. Variant same start off the L shaped hold then out right to the sidepull under the bolge then same top out. Really good variant.

FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2011

V4 Boulder 3m
9 Good fun one and variant

Start on the L shaped feature either up to the pocket to lip then move slightly rightwards and up. Variant same start off the L shaped hold then out right to the sidepull under the bolge then same top out. Really good variant.

FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2011

V4 Boulder 3m
10 Orange snatch

One of the higher problems on the left side. Climb through the low orange face on crimps them straight through to the top.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 2011

V3 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Dugout

Got desperate for another fa. On the far right of the wall there is dirt and rubble that has been used as land fill! Needed to dig it out a bit to gain access to some more holds. Big move up to the sharp jug in the bulge. Good move shame the jug is so sharp and your sitting in the dirt to start.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 2013

V2 Boulder 3m
12 Knuckle oil sambo

Same start as for little knuckles, moving up into the rooflet avoiding the holds on the lip move right to the slot then straight up. Technical and a bit powerful. Good variation.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 2012

V4 Boulder 3m
13 Good fun one left

Same start as the other good fun ones but head left and out the top of jug head . not as good or fun as the others but something else to climb.

FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2012

V2 Boulder
14 Nuckle nuts project

Low traverse of the wall. Wish I could do it but will take a shit load of training for me

Set: Krishna Thorburn

BoulderProject
15 Project

Sit start under the rooflet at the far right of the wall. Start on a couple of edges and move slightly left to the black slot in the rooflet. Move directly up around the bolge.

Set: Krishna Thorburn

BoulderProject 3m
16 Under the arch project

My longest project. Love this problem and wish I could of had more time to work it. From the low jug feature 3rd of the way on the wall, traverse right on low blankish part of the middle of the wall to the next major feature then move straight to the top.

Set: Krishna Thorburn

BoulderProject 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 ???

Climb the vertical face over the driveway, just to the left of the quaried over hang. Moving up on a couple of tricky pinches.

Set: Krishna

BoulderProject
18 Climb on dodgy choss

Not as bad as it looks. Climb on the right of the break.

FA: Krishna Thorburn

V1 Boulder
19 Love handles

From the jugy feat on the right, low traverse left and the up the high part of the wall.

FA: Krishna Thorburn

V3 Boulder 4m
20 The left variant

Not the most interesting problem. But has been done

FA: Krishna Thorburn

V2 Boulder 3m
21 Undercling project

Little eliminate problem taking out the obvious larger holds.

Set: Krishna Thorburn

BoulderProject
22 Undercling eliminate

Little eliminate problem taking out the obvious larger holds.

Set: Krishna Thorburn

BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
23 Project - prow.

Starting on the low jug a third of the way along the wall. Low traverse left and up the prow and round the face over the driveway. Probably needs some pruning at the top. Could probably be top roped. Was too much of a hassle for me to develope.

Set: Krishna

BoulderProject 4m
24 Big snatch

Link big holds climb into orange snatch.

FA: Krishna

V2 BoulderProject 4m
25 Richard cranium trav

Link the knuckle nuts project into knuckle heads trav.

Set: Krishna

BoulderProject

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V1 Big holds climb Boulder 3m
Climb on dodgy choss Boulder
V2 Big snatch BoulderProject 4m
Dugout Boulder 3m
Good fun one left Boulder
The left variant Boulder 3m
V3 Little knuckles Boulder 3m
Love handles Boulder 4m
Orange snatch Boulder 4m
V4 Good fun one Boulder 3m
Good fun one and variant Boulder 3m
Knuckle oil sambo Boulder 3m
Muffin top Boulder 3m
V5 Jug head Boulder 3m
Knuckle heads traverse Boulder
Vase glarz Boulder 3m
V6 Kht hook start variant Boulder
? ??? BoulderProject
Nuckle nuts project BoulderProject
Project BoulderProject 3m
? Project - prow. BoulderProject 4m
Richard cranium trav BoulderProject
Under the arch project BoulderProject 3m
Undercling eliminate BoulderProject
Undercling project BoulderProject
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