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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Krishna Brendan Heywood Lee McDougall Upton Josh Mennell Benjamin Firth Postman Liren Wang Andrew Harward Ed Jazz
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Unit block / Paddington / Little Sutherland boulder 25 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Unit block 25 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.882220, 151.232889
description
Micro crag consisting of traversing and short up probs and eliminates. Good climbing for the inner city as the wall is around 20 to 30 degrees with a nice bulge running through the right side of the wall. Not the most attractive of areas but good climbing nonetheless. About eight to ten metres in length and 3m low point 4m high point. All problems top out. This spot is overgrown now. Bring some pruning tools, gloves and brushes. Is a good spot if you live locally.
access issues
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
approach
To be found at Sutherland avenue Paddington beside a big block of flats. 7min from edgecliff station and short walk from cascade street from the bus stop.
history
Development started around 2009 or 10 by Krishna Thorburn as a way of coping with the immanent birth of his little girl. Around 10 plus problems exist with half a dozen still to be done. Currently the established problems are for v1 to v5 aprox with a few harder projects to be completed. Will try and get a few more done before I move on. Move!! Gana miss this spot!!
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★★ Knuckle heads traverse
8 to 10 metre traverse. Stand start left to right. done right to left makes it a tad easier but not as good. Also a sit start below the stand start from a right three finger pocket and left under cling pinch. FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2011 | V5 | ||||||
2 |
★★★ Little knuckles
Far right last chuck of kht. Sit start on the feature up and trav right to the end of the wall. FA: Krishna, 2011 | V3 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Jug head
Crimpy eliminate. Beautiful prob requires a touch of finesse. All the big holds are out for hands and feet. Accept the hold at the top of the wall. Total classic FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2012 | V5 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★★ Muffin top
Same start as for little knuckles , but straight up and over bolge with a cool big move. FA: Krishna thorburn, 2011 | V4 | 3m | |||||
5 |
Big holds climb
Up the large holds rightwards with a nice big move to the top and interesting topout. FA: Krishna, 2011 | V1 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★★ Kht hook start variant
Adds a low traversing start from the big jug 3rd of the way on the lower part of the wall moving right to left and up into the stand start and then continue to the far right and top out. The best variation and hardest one done so far. Was thinking v5 at first but I think the standard traverse is more like v5 and this variation adds a v3 or 4 to the start. Puppy sustained number. FA: Krishna thorburn, 2013 | V6 | ||||||
7 |
★★★ Vase glarz
From the big jug 3rd of the way along the wall traverse right through the blank arch and the pounce to the lip FA: Krishna thorburn, 2013 | V5 | 3m | |||||
8 |
★★ Good fun one
Start on the L shaped feature either up to the pocket to lip then move slightly rightwards and up. Variant same start off the L shaped hold then out right to the sidepull under the bolge then same top out. Really good variant. FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2011 | V4 | 3m | |||||
9 |
★★ Good fun one and variant
Start on the L shaped feature either up to the pocket to lip then move slightly rightwards and up. Variant same start off the L shaped hold then out right to the sidepull under the bolge then same top out. Really good variant. FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2011 | V4 | 3m | |||||
10 |
★ Orange snatch
One of the higher problems on the left side. Climb through the low orange face on crimps them straight through to the top. FA: Krishna thorburn, 2011 | V3 | 4m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★ Dugout
Got desperate for another fa. On the far right of the wall there is dirt and rubble that has been used as land fill! Needed to dig it out a bit to gain access to some more holds. Big move up to the sharp jug in the bulge. Good move shame the jug is so sharp and your sitting in the dirt to start. FA: Krishna thorburn, 2013 | V2 | 3m | |||||
12 |
★★ Knuckle oil sambo
Same start as for little knuckles, moving up into the rooflet avoiding the holds on the lip move right to the slot then straight up. Technical and a bit powerful. Good variation. FA: Krishna thorburn, 2012 | V4 | 3m | |||||
13 |
Good fun one left
Same start as the other good fun ones but head left and out the top of jug head . not as good or fun as the others but something else to climb. FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2012 | V2 | ||||||
14 |
Nuckle nuts project
Low traverse of the wall. Wish I could do it but will take a shit load of training for me Set: Krishna Thorburn | |||||||
15 |
Project
Sit start under the rooflet at the far right of the wall. Start on a couple of edges and move slightly left to the black slot in the rooflet. Move directly up around the bolge. Set: Krishna Thorburn | 3m | ||||||
16 |
★★★ Under the arch project
My longest project. Love this problem and wish I could of had more time to work it. From the low jug feature 3rd of the way on the wall, traverse right on low blankish part of the middle of the wall to the next major feature then move straight to the top. Set: Krishna Thorburn | 3m | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
???
Climb the vertical face over the driveway, just to the left of the quaried over hang. Moving up on a couple of tricky pinches. Set: Krishna | |||||||
18 |
Climb on dodgy choss
Not as bad as it looks. Climb on the right of the break. FA: Krishna Thorburn | V1 | ||||||
19 |
★★ Love handles
From the jugy feat on the right, low traverse left and the up the high part of the wall. FA: Krishna Thorburn | V3 | 4m | |||||
20 |
The left variant
Not the most interesting problem. But has been done FA: Krishna Thorburn | V2 | 3m | |||||
21 |
Undercling project
Little eliminate problem taking out the obvious larger holds. Set: Krishna Thorburn | |||||||
22 |
Undercling eliminate
Little eliminate problem taking out the obvious larger holds. Set: Krishna Thorburn | |||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
23 |
Project - prow.
Starting on the low jug a third of the way along the wall. Low traverse left and up the prow and round the face over the driveway. Probably needs some pruning at the top. Could probably be top roped. Was too much of a hassle for me to develope. Set: Krishna | 4m | ||||||
24 |
★ Big snatch
Link big holds climb into orange snatch. FA: Krishna | V2 | 4m | |||||
25 |
★★★ Richard cranium trav
Link the knuckle nuts project into knuckle heads trav. Set: Krishna |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
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V1 | Big holds climb | 3m | |||
Climb on dodgy choss | |||||
V2 | ★ | Big snatch | 4m | ||
★ | Dugout | 3m | |||
Good fun one left | |||||
The left variant | 3m | ||||
V3 | ★★★ | Little knuckles | 3m | ||
★★ | Love handles | 4m | |||
★ | Orange snatch | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ | Good fun one | 3m | ||
★★ | Good fun one and variant | 3m | |||
★★ | Knuckle oil sambo | 3m | |||
★★ | Muffin top | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ | Jug head | 3m | ||
★★★ | Knuckle heads traverse | ||||
★★★ | Vase glarz | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★★ | Kht hook start variant | |||
? | ??? | ||||
Nuckle nuts project | |||||
Project | 3m | ||||
? | Project - prow. | 4m | |||
★★★ | Richard cranium trav | ||||
★★★ | Under the arch project | 3m | |||
Undercling eliminate | |||||
Undercling project |