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Routes in Googolplex Crag

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Showing all 35 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
17 Crystal Cavern
Unknown 25m Evans Crown
25 Unknown

Start at big curving wall down right from 'Passionate Pleasantries'. Up past and left to arete past BR & 3FH.

Sport 20m, 4 Evans Crown
1970
10 Reflections

Start on the boulder opposite the curving, smooth wall up and left of 'Feanor'. Low angled corner.

Dec 2016 - deep in lichen

FA: J.Friend, 1970

Trad 10m Evans Crown
1973
13 Feanor

Start: 20m left of Bonsai Delight. 2 pitches up crack to roofs, awkwardly right to big chimney and up.

FA: J.Friend, P.Blackwood & B.Wilson, 1973

Trad 60m, 2 Evans Crown
1976
18 White Wizard

Once a test piece in EBs. Take big friends!

Start: 30m left of P in quiet gully. Right-to-left diagonal corner under overhang, across coloured slab to ledge. Scramble off L.

FA: M.Law, 1976

Trad 10m Evans Crown
18 2001 Bilbo Baggins

The first line up this impressive face. The obvious crack line leading up to a L-R diagonal ramp

  1. 30m Up delicate slab with finger pocket to crack, up to ramp.Follow this R to ledge/ramp. BB on TOfE just before the start of the ramp proper.

  2. 35m Right up ramp to groove and straight up.

Start: Obvious crack leading to diagonal ramp.

FA: M.Law, J.Friend & B.Ewald, 1976

Trad 65m, 2 Evans Crown
1977
16 Parallelsogood

Start: Obvious squeeze chimney on the western side of Goog Gap that faces Celeborn

FA: J.Friend, 1977

Trad 15m Evans Crown
18 Bonsai D-lite

Start: 12 left of TH. Slab and up open-ended, vegetated chimney.

FA: J.Friend & Palmer, 1977

Trad 55m Evans Crown
1987
22 This One's for Evelyn

Start: Marked. 10m right of 2001BB. Desperately up slab past BR, then more easily up groove (4RP and small cam) to another BR. Move L, then easily up slab to big ledge & BB.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987

Mixed trad 25m, 2 Evans Crown
20 Desperately Seeking Evan

A really pleasant white slab.

Start: As for 2001BB. Crack until it curves right. Move left onto slab and up past 3 BR to good ledge & BB.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987

Mixed trad 25m, 3 Evans Crown
23 Belly Acres

Very pumpy for its length. An undercling going nowhere.

Start: Middle of the wall to the left of, and at right angle to PP. Stick clip 1st BR and a few hard moves gain flake. Undercling and jam to its end, and lower off the bolt..

FA: J.Smoothy, G.Bradbury & M.Colyvan, 1987

Trad 10m Evans Crown
23 The Howling

Classic!

Start: Marked. 10m left of 2001BB. Thin right leaning diagonal crack. Up crack to better crack and up to tree. Left to arete and up. Traverse down and left along ramp to belay. Right side of arete and up.

Please note that the climb has gone back to nature and is unclimbable. Pity

FA: G.Robertson & M.Colyvan, 1987

Trad 85m Evans Crown
20 Six Days on the Toad

A classic. Start: Scramble up the Coffin Hole for about 15m to the top of a large boulder - the climb starts here. Belay Bolt. Straight up slab past BR to the diagonal of 2001 Bilbo Baggins where you can get a wire in. Straight up again past 4 BR to DBB.

FA: M.Colyvan & J.Smoothy, 1987

Trad 28m Evans Crown
1988
23 Mr Sheen

Sustained and delicate.

Start: 2m left of BD.

  1. 35m Follow the blunt arete, moving L just before teh final steep section, then R again to the stance. 7 BR, some with FH plus a #2 Friend in crack low down.

  2. 15m Slightly easier slab past BR leads to a very tricky finale over the bulge, protected by another BR. Easy walk up slab to stance & DBB

FA: G.de Lacy, A.Schnarbel, B.Stevens & D.Taylor, 1988

Trad 50m, 2 Evans Crown
24 Twitching for Jesus

Start: 25m left of TH.Straight up to BR and jug at 8m, diagonally L to BR and jug at 16m. Up easing slab.

FA: M.Law & G.Robertson, 1988

Trad 35m Evans Crown
24 A Ticklish Affair

Sustained, varied climbing. Start as for TfJ.

  1. (24) Up TJ to bolt, then straight up wall past 3 more BR to DBB at back of ledge.

  2. 15m (24) Slither up corner behind past 3BR (BR at top protects second) and then walk right to 'Mr Sheen' belay

  3. 15m (23) finish up MS p2.

Start: As for TfJ. 3 pitches.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

Sport 40m, 3 Evans Crown
23 Finger Tight

Start: On the terrace where DSE ends, directly above that climb. Can rap in from the top of SDotT. Straight up past 3 BR then run it out up the slab. Wander across to the DBB on top of SDotT

FA: P.Colyvan & G.Robbins, 1988

Trad 30m Evans Crown
21 Shelf Life

Good looking hanging arete.

Start: Rap in from top of buttress between FN and SDotT (there is a large boulder near the edge here). Cam belay on obvious ledge at base of arete. Up arete past 4 BR.

FA: P.Bayne & M.Colyvan, 1988

Mixed trad 30m, 4 Evans Crown
23 Ice

Start: On same boulder as Reflections, down and round L from that climb. Step off boulder onto slab. Up diagonally left for pro (desperate nut placement), then up dyke diagonally right past 2 BR to poor BB belay at trees.

FA: M.Law, 1988

Trad 10m Evans Crown
18 Fuzzy Navel

A classic long arete.

Start: Thin crack 2m right of TH.

  1. 30m (18) Up crack and wall to join TH at wider crack. Belay in the groove from chockstone and and number 4 cam plus more gear around another chockstone further up the groove.

  2. 45m (18) Step left to arete and uppast 2 BR as for TH. Then on up the sustained arete past 4 BR to BB.

FA: P.Bayne, D.Haines, J.Monaghan & M.Colyvan, 1988

Trad 75m, 2 Evans Crown
14 Passionate Pleasantries

A very good slab route. Start further L from the big curving wall on some boulders just R of a gully in a corner.

  1. Step right onto slab, up past 3 BR to large ledge.

  2. Short crack then across to the mainland.

Start: Up left from the big, curving wall on some boulders right of a gully. 2 pitches.

FA: J.Monaghan & F.Lumsden, 1988

Trad 30m, 2 Evans Crown
20 Kazad Dum

Start: 4m left of P. Off width crack for 4m then right.

FA: R.Reynolds, 1988

Trad 10m Evans Crown
1989
22 Laughing Boy Morris

Good sustained climbing up a striking line. Start: 2m right of TOfE.

  1. 25m (Crux) up slab past 4 BR (3 with hangers) to large ledge with BB.

  2. 30m (crux) Sustained and thin slab climbing past 5 BR between Finger Tight and SDotT. After last BR, 15m of easier climbing leads past large ledge to DBB of SDotT.

FA: A.Penney & CJ.Jagusch, 1989

Sport 55m, 2, 9 Evans Crown
22 Thrashing the Mullet Gun

Some neat moves.

Start: Thin open corner 5m left of TA and about 20m L of MS. Stem up against boulder to BR, then up corner to good pockets (nut pro). Tricky move around the next BR, then slab to rap bolts. 3 FH in total.

FA: M.Stacey & F.Moon, 1989

Mixed trad 25m, 3 Evans Crown
21 Retreat from Moscow

Sustained with a thin start. Start: 3m left of 2001BB on top of log. Fire up past 5 BR (with FH) then easily to a small ledge with DBB - rap off.

FA: A.Penney & B.Scheerer, 1989

Sport 25m, 5 Evans Crown
20 Rene's Ethical Neutrality

Start: 4m right of GHtHHH. Up past 2 FH and over bulge, up face right of prominent groove past 4 FH and #3 Friend. Old bolts replaced by new FH.

FA: R.Stiles & M.King, 1989

Mixed trad 25m, 6 Evans Crown
26 Rubber Nuns

Good, hard slab climbing!

Start: Step right 1.5m from the belay of 'The Howling'. Brushed strip past 2BR to bulge, hard moves over this past BR to stance, head up slab past BR to belay as per TH.

FA: P.Colyvan, 1989

Trad 35m Evans Crown
21 God Help the Hash House Harriers

Quite nice. Start: 2m right of SDotT. Short slab past 2 BR, across 2001BB, up past 4 BR to DBB on SDotT.

FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & S.Pierce, 1989

Trad 28m Evans Crown
1990
21 Bilbo Baggins Direct Start

From cairn about 2m R of GHtHHH climb slab past 3 BR to join top crack of 2001 Bilbo Baggins.

FA: Unknown, 1990

Mixed trad 10m, 3 Evans Crown
20 Mr Bubbles

Start: Near the top of the Coffin Hole 'Gully', about 10m right of 'Field Commander Jagusch'. Up slab past 5BR to DBB

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990

Sport 25m, 5 Evans Crown
19 Saddam's Black Heart

Start: . From block on right edge of slab 1 - 2m left of MB, step left onto slab. Up past 5 BR to Mr Bubbles belay.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990

Trad 25m Evans Crown
20 Field Commander Jagusch

Start: 1m right of REN. Up slab past 5 BR to DBB. A 2.5 Friend is useful near the top.

FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & M.Newberry, 1990

Mixed trad 25m, 5 Evans Crown
2012
19 Occam's Razor Antithesis

Finish Retreat from Moscow by traversing to the far righthand end of the belay slab, equalising the fixed hanger on LBM and a manky 6mm carrot 2m left. Continue heading up and right along a slowly narrowing groove (2001BB) which eventually becomes an overlap and thin seam, clipping bolts on SDOTT, GHtHHH and REN and supplementing with cams (#1 BD, #3 BD) and a Mid-sized hex. When the grove widens and breaks upwards into unprotected vertical climbing, continue right past REN to the next major line of bolts (FCJ), and continue up this to finish (supplement with slinging bomber flake, and slinging shrub). Belay bolts well back from edge.

May not be a first ascent, but was done as a safe way of retreating from Escape from Moscow, avoiding any of the more committing climbs above, and with minimal gear. Despite the length and wandery nature of this climb, rope-drag was not a problem.

FA: P. Thomson (L) & A. Cummings (S)., 2012

Trad 45m Evans Crown
2015
30 Fight Club

The inverted squeeze chimney / bum-crack above the Camping Cave. Starting at the back of the cave, chimney up, invert from a fist jam, stick your feet up there and shuffle upside down to lip. Cut loose, work around lip, then cruise up offwidth vertical section. Has been done in various ways using the full range of offwidth techniques, needs a few 5 & 6 cams for roof.

Hardest climb listed at Tarana, maybe the hardest "wide" climb in Aus?

FA: Doug McConnell, Mar 2015

NA: Gwen Lancashire, 28 May 2023

Trad 15m Evans Crown
2023
30 Fight Club

The inverted squeeze chimney / bum-crack above the Camping Cave. Starting at the back of the cave, chimney up, invert from a fist jam, stick your feet up there and shuffle upside down to lip. Cut loose, work around lip, then cruise up offwidth vertical section. Has been done in various ways using the full range of offwidth techniques, needs a few 5 & 6 cams for roof.

Hardest climb listed at Tarana, maybe the hardest "wide" climb in Aus?

FA: Doug McConnell, Mar 2015

NA: Gwen Lancashire, 28 May 2023

Trad 15m Evans Crown

Showing all 35 routes.

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