Showing all 35 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown year | |||||
17 | Crystal Cavern
| 25m | Evans Crown | ||
25 | Unknown
Start at big curving wall down right from 'Passionate Pleasantries'. Up past and left to arete past BR & 3FH. | 20m, 4 | Evans Crown | ||
1970 | |||||
10 | Reflections
Start on the boulder opposite the curving, smooth wall up and left of 'Feanor'. Low angled corner. Dec 2016 - deep in lichen FA: J.Friend, 1970 | 10m | Evans Crown | ||
1973 | |||||
13 | ★ Feanor
Start: 20m left of Bonsai Delight. 2 pitches up crack to roofs, awkwardly right to big chimney and up. FA: J.Friend, P.Blackwood & B.Wilson, 1973 | 60m, 2 | Evans Crown | ||
1976 | |||||
18 | White Wizard
Once a test piece in EBs. Take big friends! Start: 30m left of P in quiet gully. Right-to-left diagonal corner under overhang, across coloured slab to ledge. Scramble off L. FA: M.Law, 1976 | 10m | Evans Crown | ||
18 | ★ 2001 Bilbo Baggins
The first line up this impressive face. The obvious crack line leading up to a L-R diagonal ramp
Start: Obvious crack leading to diagonal ramp. FA: M.Law, J.Friend & B.Ewald, 1976 | 65m, 2 | Evans Crown | ||
1977 | |||||
16 | Parallelsogood
Start: Obvious squeeze chimney on the western side of Goog Gap that faces Celeborn FA: J.Friend, 1977 | 15m | Evans Crown | ||
18 | Bonsai D-lite
Start: 12 left of TH. Slab and up open-ended, vegetated chimney. FA: J.Friend & Palmer, 1977 | 55m | Evans Crown | ||
1987 | |||||
22 | ★ This One's for Evelyn
Start: Marked. 10m right of 2001BB. Desperately up slab past BR, then more easily up groove (4RP and small cam) to another BR. Move L, then easily up slab to big ledge & BB. FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987 | 25m, 2 | Evans Crown | ||
20 | ★ Desperately Seeking Evan
A really pleasant white slab. Start: As for 2001BB. Crack until it curves right. Move left onto slab and up past 3 BR to good ledge & BB. FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987 | 25m, 3 | Evans Crown | ||
23 | ★ Belly Acres
Very pumpy for its length. An undercling going nowhere. Start: Middle of the wall to the left of, and at right angle to PP. Stick clip 1st BR and a few hard moves gain flake. Undercling and jam to its end, and lower off the bolt.. FA: J.Smoothy, G.Bradbury & M.Colyvan, 1987 | 10m | Evans Crown | ||
23 | ★★★ The Howling
Classic! Start: Marked. 10m left of 2001BB. Thin right leaning diagonal crack. Up crack to better crack and up to tree. Left to arete and up. Traverse down and left along ramp to belay. Right side of arete and up. Please note that the climb has gone back to nature and is unclimbable. Pity FA: G.Robertson & M.Colyvan, 1987 | 85m | Evans Crown | ||
20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad
A classic. Start: Scramble up the Coffin Hole for about 15m to the top of a large boulder - the climb starts here. Belay Bolt. Straight up slab past BR to the diagonal of 2001 Bilbo Baggins where you can get a wire in. Straight up again past 4 BR to DBB. FA: M.Colyvan & J.Smoothy, 1987 | 28m | Evans Crown | ||
1988 | |||||
23 | ★★ Mr Sheen
Sustained and delicate. Start: 2m left of BD.
FA: G.de Lacy, A.Schnarbel, B.Stevens & D.Taylor, 1988 | 50m, 2 | Evans Crown | ||
24 | ★ Twitching for Jesus
Start: 25m left of TH.Straight up to BR and jug at 8m, diagonally L to BR and jug at 16m. Up easing slab. FA: M.Law & G.Robertson, 1988 | 35m | Evans Crown | ||
24 | ★★ A Ticklish Affair
Sustained, varied climbing. Start as for TfJ.
Start: As for TfJ. 3 pitches. FA: J.Smoothy, 1988 | 40m, 3 | Evans Crown | ||
23 | ★★ Finger Tight
Start: On the terrace where DSE ends, directly above that climb. Can rap in from the top of SDotT. Straight up past 3 BR then run it out up the slab. Wander across to the DBB on top of SDotT FA: P.Colyvan & G.Robbins, 1988 | 30m | Evans Crown | ||
21 | ★ Shelf Life
Good looking hanging arete. Start: Rap in from top of buttress between FN and SDotT (there is a large boulder near the edge here). Cam belay on obvious ledge at base of arete. Up arete past 4 BR. FA: P.Bayne & M.Colyvan, 1988 | 30m, 4 | Evans Crown | ||
23 | ★ Ice
Start: On same boulder as Reflections, down and round L from that climb. Step off boulder onto slab. Up diagonally left for pro (desperate nut placement), then up dyke diagonally right past 2 BR to poor BB belay at trees. FA: M.Law, 1988 | 10m | Evans Crown | ||
18 | ★★★ Fuzzy Navel
A classic long arete. Start: Thin crack 2m right of TH.
FA: P.Bayne, D.Haines, J.Monaghan & M.Colyvan, 1988 | 75m, 2 | Evans Crown | ||
14 | ★ Passionate Pleasantries
A very good slab route. Start further L from the big curving wall on some boulders just R of a gully in a corner.
Start: Up left from the big, curving wall on some boulders right of a gully. 2 pitches. FA: J.Monaghan & F.Lumsden, 1988 | 30m, 2 | Evans Crown | ||
20 | Kazad Dum
Start: 4m left of P. Off width crack for 4m then right. FA: R.Reynolds, 1988 | 10m | Evans Crown | ||
1989 | |||||
22 | ★★ Laughing Boy Morris
Good sustained climbing up a striking line. Start: 2m right of TOfE.
FA: A.Penney & CJ.Jagusch, 1989 | 55m, 2, 9 | Evans Crown | ||
22 | Thrashing the Mullet Gun
Some neat moves. Start: Thin open corner 5m left of TA and about 20m L of MS. Stem up against boulder to BR, then up corner to good pockets (nut pro). Tricky move around the next BR, then slab to rap bolts. 3 FH in total. FA: M.Stacey & F.Moon, 1989 | 25m, 3 | Evans Crown | ||
21 | ★★★ Retreat from Moscow
Sustained with a thin start. Start: 3m left of 2001BB on top of log. Fire up past 5 BR (with FH) then easily to a small ledge with DBB - rap off. FA: A.Penney & B.Scheerer, 1989 | 25m, 5 | Evans Crown | ||
20 | ★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality
Start: 4m right of GHtHHH. Up past 2 FH and over bulge, up face right of prominent groove past 4 FH and #3 Friend. Old bolts replaced by new FH. FA: R.Stiles & M.King, 1989 | 25m, 6 | Evans Crown | ||
26 | ★ Rubber Nuns
Good, hard slab climbing! Start: Step right 1.5m from the belay of 'The Howling'. Brushed strip past 2BR to bulge, hard moves over this past BR to stance, head up slab past BR to belay as per TH. FA: P.Colyvan, 1989 | 35m | Evans Crown | ||
21 | ★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers
Quite nice. Start: 2m right of SDotT. Short slab past 2 BR, across 2001BB, up past 4 BR to DBB on SDotT. FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & S.Pierce, 1989 | 28m | Evans Crown | ||
1990 | |||||
21 | Bilbo Baggins Direct Start
From cairn about 2m R of GHtHHH climb slab past 3 BR to join top crack of 2001 Bilbo Baggins. FA: Unknown, 1990 | 10m, 3 | Evans Crown | ||
20 | ★★ Mr Bubbles
Start: Near the top of the Coffin Hole 'Gully', about 10m right of 'Field Commander Jagusch'. Up slab past 5BR to DBB FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990 | 25m, 5 | Evans Crown | ||
19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart
Start: . From block on right edge of slab 1 - 2m left of MB, step left onto slab. Up past 5 BR to Mr Bubbles belay. FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990 | 25m | Evans Crown | ||
20 | ★ Field Commander Jagusch
Start: 1m right of REN. Up slab past 5 BR to DBB. A 2.5 Friend is useful near the top. FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & M.Newberry, 1990 | 25m, 5 | Evans Crown | ||
2012 | |||||
19 | ★ Occam's Razor Antithesis
Finish Retreat from Moscow by traversing to the far righthand end of the belay slab, equalising the fixed hanger on LBM and a manky 6mm carrot 2m left. Continue heading up and right along a slowly narrowing groove (2001BB) which eventually becomes an overlap and thin seam, clipping bolts on SDOTT, GHtHHH and REN and supplementing with cams (#1 BD, #3 BD) and a Mid-sized hex. When the grove widens and breaks upwards into unprotected vertical climbing, continue right past REN to the next major line of bolts (FCJ), and continue up this to finish (supplement with slinging bomber flake, and slinging shrub). Belay bolts well back from edge. May not be a first ascent, but was done as a safe way of retreating from Escape from Moscow, avoiding any of the more committing climbs above, and with minimal gear. Despite the length and wandery nature of this climb, rope-drag was not a problem. FA: P. Thomson (L) & A. Cummings (S)., 2012 | 45m | Evans Crown | ||
2015 | |||||
30 | ★★★ Fight Club
The inverted squeeze chimney / bum-crack above the Camping Cave. Starting at the back of the cave, chimney up, invert from a fist jam, stick your feet up there and shuffle upside down to lip. Cut loose, work around lip, then cruise up offwidth vertical section. Has been done in various ways using the full range of offwidth techniques, needs a few 5 & 6 cams for roof. Hardest climb listed at Tarana, maybe the hardest "wide" climb in Aus? FA: Doug McConnell, Mar 2015 NA: Gwen Lancashire, 28 May 2023 | 15m | Evans Crown | ||
2023 | |||||
30 | ★★★ Fight Club
The inverted squeeze chimney / bum-crack above the Camping Cave. Starting at the back of the cave, chimney up, invert from a fist jam, stick your feet up there and shuffle upside down to lip. Cut loose, work around lip, then cruise up offwidth vertical section. Has been done in various ways using the full range of offwidth techniques, needs a few 5 & 6 cams for roof. Hardest climb listed at Tarana, maybe the hardest "wide" climb in Aus? FA: Doug McConnell, Mar 2015 NA: Gwen Lancashire, 28 May 2023 | 15m | Evans Crown |
Showing all 35 routes.