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description

Powerful moves following an incipient diagonal crack on the 20 degree overhanging headwall above The Great Roof. The Belay is a fully-hanging stance on the very lip of the roof.

Getting to the climb is a big undertaking. From the top of Bare Rock, locate the rap-access anchors for the Easter Rising Face (about 50m right (looking out) of the Supernaut top anchor, tucked away among some scraggly bushes near the cliff edge (ignore another set of anchors in the open between the Supernaut anchors and the Easter Rising anchors - these are the top-out anchors for Master of Puppets)).

Fix a 60m rope, rap down and redirect the rap-rope off a single bolt (on McDonagh face), then rap down and right (looking in) aiming for a double U-bolt belay about 10m right of the direct rap line. Redirect the rap-rope again off these anchors, and rap down the overhanging headwall (clip into bolts on the way down, as the line is very steep, and diagonal) to the belay on the lip of the Great Roof. A 60m rope JUST reaches (tie a knot in the end).

Climb the Diagonal crack past 5 bolts to the anchors. Then Jumaar 40m back to the top.

Route history

First ascent: Chris Coppard

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -41.66665, 147.98911

Grade citation

27 Assigned grade
25 [23 - 26] -- grAId
27

ethic

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (fingalvalley@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

inherited from Fingal Valley

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
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Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 67 from 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Attempt 1

Comment keywords

exposed scary tough powerful solid hard strenuous crazy bad crack perfect good rad

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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