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Ascents in West of the access track as various tick types by Douglas Hockly

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Showing all 84 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Mon 15th Aug 2016 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
16 Illusion / Bad Blues Link Up Trad 22m Good
18 Iron Mandible Trad 24m Very Good
Take care and small wires on the start

 
17 Neon Philharmonic Trad 35m Average
God this is desperate.

 
21 The Anti-From Trad 17m Good
24 Serenade for Strings Trad 35m Average
19 Drop Out Trad 24m Good
Good but has a substantial loose bit

 
16 Drop-out Direct Finish Trad 7m Good
15 Bad Company Trad 20m Average
Insecure feeling, not that fun

 
19 Jumbo Services Mrs Mills and the Electric Yellow Bums Trad 20m Don't Bother
17 16 Micron Trad 20m Good
18 17 Elastic RURP Trad 20m Very Good
20 Catharsis Trad 20m Good
This is better than it looks! The top offwith is great, I used stacked handjams which worked well.

 
17 Pixel Princess Trad 15m Average
Better than it looks, but has some loose blocks to be careful of up high. Also more like 17 off the ground than 15

 
20 Footloose and Falling Free Trad 11m Very Good
I really like this one. Surprisingly takes a blue cam 3 camalot at the top.

 
19 Magical Mystery Tour Trad 34m Good
Take some small wires

 
21 Half-dazed and Patched Pants Trad 18m Average
I remember having a wobbler above the bolt on this!

 
22 20 The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine Trad 33m Good
The start detracts, and the rest is quite hard, feels as hard as other 22s

 
19 Bay Play Trad 10m Good
Hard and the gear strenuous to place. Good climbing but some loose bits.

 
21 20 The One That Got Away Trad 35m Classic
Love this one.

 
23 23 X Ockerphillia - with Robbie McKillop Trad 23m Very Good
Rapped down and looked at the gear first. IIRC there's nothing to the crux and not much after it but I got about 4 bits on the crux that I thought would hold a slump.

 
23 Chemical Adrenalin Mixed trad 24m, 4 Very Good
Found this hard, maybe 24?

 
21 Conquistador Trad 45m Mega Classic
21 Oppenheimer's Monster Mixed trad 25m, 2 Average
It's been a long time but I remember being a bit put off by the rock quality, and hence the gear that's in it.

 
20 Devils Dihedral Trad 45m Mega Classic
My fave at Frog

 
15 Devil's Wart Trad 27m Very Good
Hollow corner at the top is a bit offputting

 
23 Baby Staysharp Sport 7m, 2 Good
My first 23 flash

 
18 Hello Sailor Trad 20m Good
This is surprisingly good. No real offwidthing required.

 
17 Genghis Khan Trad 20m Don't Bother
I only just got up this! I did it by chimneying which was exhausting, maybe there is a better way. (Wendy did it much better) There really is no gear till half height, and some poor rock, and it's filthy... get on it.

 
23 Go-between Trad 18m Good
I thought this was really nice, and I think the gear would be better these days with micro cams. Could be 22.

 
19 Hollywood Rattlesnake Trad 18m Good
A bit graunchy but good.

 
22 Out on a Limb Trad 18m Good
The crux placements have shattered which is not that confidence inspiring. You can get questionable cams now. Delicate climbing on your feet.

 
22 21 Run With the Pack Trad 20m Good
More like a toprope. I went up Bad Company to the first good bit of gear, which is 2/3 of the way up the route. I would not trust the gear in the initial corner at all. Much scarier than Out On A Limb or The Go-Between. Climbing is ok, top crack is nice. I think 22.

 
23 The Guns of Navaronne Trad 30m Good
Good but the hard bit is short if you start up Odin like we did.

 
22 Decade Trad 30m Average
A good line but the climbing is easier to the left and then the right so it ended up feeling a bit contrived to me.

 
17 If Trad 30m Don't Bother
Not that great, and neither is the gear when it matters

 
21 20 Short Order Trad 30m Classic
I find this to be solid 21. Great climbing, though feels insecure all the way. Every time I do it I remember that Malcolm soloed it. Gawd.

 
17 Smoked Banana Trad 40m Good
13 12 Witches Cauldron Pitch 1 Trad 12m Don't Bother
Quite horrible, consists of stacked blocks which contain the gear...

 
18 Midnight Express - with Wendy Eden Trad 23m Average
Not too hard, and not as bad as it looks. Some loose rock but no real offwidthing, you can head onto the R wall at the top

 
17 Psychedelic Apricot Pitch Two - with Wendy Eden Trad 25m Average
This seemed quite easy for 19... on second. There is a fair bit of loose rock but not awful. Climbing is ok.

 
14 Faki Trad 13m Good
22 Satsang Mixed trad 5m, 1 Average
22 Yankee Go Home Trad 26m Very Good
18 Warlock Trad 26m Average
23 Day of the Jackal Trad 28m Very Good
I had a great experience on this.. a bit scared, at my limit, but got up it. I thought it was great but YMMV

 
20 19 Thor Trad 30m Don't Bother
I thought this was horrible. The first half is ok but the top is just a jigsaw of loose blocks.

 
20 Odin Trad 30m Average
I remember hating this before I could jam!

 
Tue 5th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
20 Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles Trad 32m Good
Mon 4th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
19 Sorcerer's Apprentice Trad 30m Very Good
I think the start has cleaned up a bit by now but still take care.

 
21 Satyricon - with Ben Weissner Trad 35m Good
OK, I wasn't really taken with this but it is a nice long pitch. I found the finish very hard.

 
22 Old Guard - with Wendy Eden Trad 40m Very Good
Better than it looks and there are a number of stances on the way.

 
20 Termination Trad 18m Good
These days I put a side runner in IIL to the right as the wire placement at the start is not that inspiring.

 
16 Integrated Injection Logic - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Average
19 18 Plume Trad 25m Very Good
Great. And well protected.

 
24 Bitching and Back Stabbing Mixed trad 12m, 2 Good
An interesting move or two but short

 
18 Gladiator Trad 20m Good
23 Nosy Business Mixed trad 20m, 4 Average
Don't really remember this, the climbing didn't stand out.

 
18 Chocolate Watch Band Trad 17m Good
I quite like this but it's very hard when you have rudimentary wide crack skills!

 
6 Saturday Afternoon Walk Trad 15m Good
15 Rest Area Ahead Trad 10m Average
19 Humility Trad 15m Average
Pretty poor gear. There's not much climbing either.

 
18 Witches Covert - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Average
The start is interesting (and a bit slick and desperate) but the chimney up the top is no fun. And no gear. And some loose bits.

 
22 Lonely Teardrops - with Wendy Eden Trad 22m Classic
Really great.

 
19 Infinity - with Wendy Eden Trad 40m Classic
Awsm!

 
25 Stonkers and Steroids - with Paul Hoskins Mixed trad 30m, 4 Good
Second or third shot, after which it was promptly downgraded from 26... sigh. Boulder problems between jugs.

 
28 Brown Corduroy Trousers - with Ingvar Lidman Trad 25m Very Good
Beautiful climbing in the initial groove and the top, the crux is not quite as nice - just really hard crimping. I wore a groove in my left boot on the crux edge - always thought my foot was going to blow but I guess the groove held it on! Strangely takes lots of gear between #2 and #3 RP size. 3 days I think.

 
23 Epic Journey - with Chad Albinger Trad 30m Classic
Good gear, great climbing, lovely route.

 
18 Fluid / Epic Link Up Trad 30m Very Good
This is really great! interesting and varied climbing, though can be a bit dirty up high.

 
21 Fluid Journey Trad 40m Good
Pretty good, one hard move up the top, but the linkup or Epic are better

 
23 22 Insomnia Trad 40m Don't Bother
Everyone, it seems, loves this route except me. It's a good looking line but there is a frightening amount of loose rock in the first half, an unpleasant slopey mantle and then a quite avoidable offwidth. The climbing's just not very good.

 
20 Piranha Trad 45m Very Good
Really like this one. Varied and interesting.

 
24 Worrying Heights Trad 30m Very Good
Most people seem to think this is a mega classic but it doesn't really grab me. It's good, but some loose feeling rock and the way it goes out to the arete detracts for me. Still very good, I just enjoy other things more.

 
19 Electronic Flag DS - RHS (Electronic Flag DS) Trad 10m Average
super slippery now

 
14 Electronic Flag Trad 40m Good
I remember wobbling up this with anchor-like rope drag on one of my first leads at Frog

 
18 Arknamton 2 - with Wendy Eden Trad 30m Don't Bother
Not worth it.

 
22 No Return Trad 30m Good
Wobbled my way up this as one of my early 21s...

 
10 Strawberry Alarm-clock Trad 20m Don't Bother
Horrible, but all chimneys are the same. They should only be used for expelling smoke, not climbing.

 
14 Orchid Alley Trad 20m Average
Don't remember enjoying this.

 
17 Blow by Blow Mixed trad 18m, 1 Average
13 Clockwork Orange Corner Trad 15m Average
Desperate as your first route at Frog after a few weeks of climbing! Not a great choice for early leaders unless you have a lot of biggish gear.

 
20 20 R Sleight of Hand Trad 8m Very Good
I remember this being remarkably nice for a short thing. Not that I've got anything against short things, of course.

 
22 Lord Drool Sport 6m Good
24 Down With His Pants Mixed trad 20m, 3 Very Good
The bottom has a cool sequence, I remember enjoying the top too.

 
24 Suicide City - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Very Good
Just squeaked up this one on second! Really good, odd climbing, very sustained for the first 8m or so.

 

Showing all 84 ascents.

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