Routes in Turtle Rock

This is the offwidth crack in the southern section of Turtle rock. The cliff face is facing north. It is detached from all other climbing sections. The crack starts at flaring hand jams , passes through a small lip, and opens into an off width. Crux is getting through the lip. Top out and easily walk up a Three bits of vegetation remains in the crack. Belay from an excellent gum tree.

First ascents unknown. Reestablished by Dave Os and Jacinda

Left from the belay and up to a bolt at 15 metres. Thin past this then up to a second bolt. Up with another move left at the bulge to a third bolt then up to finish. Scott Camps and Stuart Camps Jan 1986

The slab right of Trev's Arete, below the tourist gully. A tree is infront of the route. Up slab past 3 BR's.

Go left and up from the belay to traverse four metres left along small foot ledges to a short flake. Up, moving slightly right to a bolt. Push it out diagonally left to a second bolt and then up and left again to a third bolt. Steeply through the bulge to finish. Scott Camps and John Pearson April 1986

The right-hand arete of the Charapace wall. Start from the high boulder, clipping the carrot before you pull on. Follow the enjoyable and surprisingly well bolted (relatively) arete. Good beginner's lead.

The next three routes are also accessed from the summit. Walk down a northwestfacing gully to a large, sloping platform.

The strenuous layback corner on the right hand side. Rob Staszewski and Shane Chemello early 1980’s

Short route up L of New Paths. On the left hand wall opposite the layback corner, two metres right of old gum. Up and right to bolt, then steeply to a second. Up and left, then back right to finish at tree belay. Dick Henderson and Scott Camps April 1986

Near the edge of the slab (two metres right of Summerbreeze) pull onto the wall just left of the shallow groove to a jug/plate. Sling this and up to a bolt. Left and up to step back right at the top of the groove to a second bolt. A reachy move right leads to a jug and sling. Back left and up to tree belay (well back).

Dick Henderson and Scott Camps April 1986

Now back to ground level…

Steep and sustained. This is the steep wall down from Millions Of Dead Punks. About 55 metres around the corner from Wading Ape Direct Start from a low platform on the right. Up thin moves past two bolts. Left and up steeply through the middle of the wall past two more bolts to a marginal rest at the fifth bolt. Left and up intermittent cracks in the bulge (natural pro) to the sixth bolt. Steeply up to the seventh bolt and then an exciting finish up a slab to the top. Tree belay well back.

Scott Camps and John Pearson May 1986

No runners. The next line of holds is three metres left of I’m A Fraggile. Don’t bust an ankle bouldering the start, then straight up and right to finish. Geoff Weigand (Solo) Sept 1984

Three BR then a long run out to a BR anchor. Walk off.

Follow the wide crack three metres left of Quick Quiz to the tree. Rob Staszewski early 1980s’

Pull onto the high foothold about eight metres left of Quick Quiz, and continue up to join Wading Ape at the first bolt. Scott Camps (Solo) April 1986

Now follow the track to the summit. Rap 30 metres down the southern side to a double bolt belay on a sloping ledge (or climb Wading Ape Direct Start to the same ledge…) to access the next four routes.

A bit of a mid grade classic. From the belay traverse three metres right to the short, shallow corner (bolt). Step right and climb straight up to the second bolt. Step left and head up past a nob (Evan’s Envy) to a third bolt. Up and a bit right to finish.

Paul Grey, Mike Groom, David Groom and Phillip Waters June 1984

Straight up from the bolt belay to a bolt. Then continue up to flake and piton. Up to a second bolt in the bulge, and then easily to tree belay. Scott Camps and Dick Henderson April 1986

Follow the track another 300 metres or so past Sphinx Rock (i.e. 3.8km from campsite).

Start at the obvious detached flake behind the Turtle Rock sign where the track first meets the rock. From the top of the flake follow the slab to the top without any gear. FA Solo

Left of the large slab wall area at the end of the track there is a second large wall with an obvious finger crack line splitting the wall and trending left. Lower down it has an overlapping arete formed by the right side of the crack line's rock. This is right in front of the large tree growing there.

Follow the finger crack through the crux section lower down to gain the slabby headwall, some balancy nut placements higher up but on fairly easy ground give an exciting finish.

Plenty of size 2-5 nuts and a few slightly larger cams leave you very well protected throughout.

plenty of far back rock a the top to allow for a multi point anchor.

About 40 meters down from gully from Staircase, clip the bolt, step off the boulder and head up to the second bolt. Left and up to a third bolt and easily to the top. SLCD belay.

Don’t bother with the rack and don’t fall off now, ya hear? Boulder the start two metres right of Charapace and head straight up.

At the start of a long and narrow gully about 12 metres left of Tintogale, behind a tree. Up the wall past a bolt to tree belay.

Ten metres left of the previous route move up the slab and trend right to a bolt. Past this then to the top. Double bolt belay on the left.

Starts just left of Winter Winds. Straight up to a bolt at about 12 metres and onwards. Double bolt belay and rap.

Three metres left of Mazeppa is a bulge. Pass this and continue past two bolts. As the wall steepens to a third bolt, crank to a double bolt belay on the right.

The next nine routes are in the tourist gully about twenty five metres left of the above route.

Start from the block next to the small arête to the left of the track as it turns right to the summit. Up the arête past two bolts. Tree belay well back.

Two metres left of Mozartiana up flake to bolt. Move right then diagonally left to the top. Take the RP’s.

Follow the thin crack three metres left of The Tempest past two bolts to a tree belay (well back).

Walk under the boulder opposite New Paths and climb up a short wall to the base of a west-facing, overhanging wall. Use cairn to start. Pull onto the wall and go past first bolt, dyno to jug and second bolt. Up steeply past two more bolts to finish to the right to top.

Scott Camps and Dick Henderson May 1986

Follow track to Turtle rock, as you walk past first face you come to notice large obvious crack, unbolted, first accents? could use trad or set up toprope. Difficult finger crack start that gets easier as you go up before easy top out.