Routes as trad in Chimney Pot Gap

The seam, dodging around to find protection.

Start: Two metres right of the juggy lines is a thin, closed seam going up diagonally right.

This climb appears to take the juggy flake system just left of "Lionhearted". Just to confuse things, here's the original location description, but don't take it too seriously : "The buttress to the left of a large tree growing flat across the track, just up the hill from 'Lionhearted'.".

Coming around the corner from Lionhearted and just before a steeply overhanging section is a south-facing wall.

Steep bridging and buckets up line 2 metres right of arete on south-facing wall.

Continue under the overhanging wall to a broken-down gully. On the right wall of the gully is a small orange corner capped by a small roof, Leo.

This is probably more worthwhile as a boulder problem than a climb. Take a couple of mats, boulder to the jugs then jump off. You might even be able to sit-start it.

Climb into "Leo"'s corner then step right at break to arete. Climb this as for "Leo The Line".

The small orange corner. An energetic start off the ground on the arete directly under the roof. Up to the roof, step left and up.

Up, step right to the block. Up the left side of the chimney to the chockstone. Step onto the right wall and up.

Start: Start at right-hand crack at the base of "Not Christians For Dinner Again".

Follow the flake to its top, then up.

Start: Start on the left wall of the gully, just right of the left arete.

Up, step left at ledge and up right face of the arete.

Start: Start at crack 2 metres left of "Lion Tamer"

Up, step left at break and up centre of arete.

Start: Start at crack 5.5 metres left of

Start 7 metres left of "Not Christians For Dinner Again" at crack separating the detached block from the main face.

Follow the main crack until it gets too narrow then continue up right side of buttress.

Mossy chimney then squeeze through the roof and scamble up.

Start: Start 8 metres left of "Not Christians For Dinner Again".

Pleasant bridging up the wide chimney at the left end of the overhanging wall.

Up crack until it peters out., step right with difficulty, then up more easily in the juggy line above.

Start: On the left arete of "Zsa-Zsa's Crack" is a crack that peters out.

Left of twin cracks 1 metre right of small mossy crack.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "Zsa-Zsa's Crack".

The line direct to the top.

Start: This is described as starting 30 metres right of "Wildcat". It appears to be a steep line bounding the left side of an orange section.

A detached block of steep orange and grey rock stands out from the main cliff-line. There are no climbs on the south face but several routes are jammed together on the west. This is about 50 metres right of The Lion In Winter. Need to identify where this is in relation to boulder problems.

Start 3m to the right of 'Wildcat'

Go up vertical crack line for 2m resisting the temptation to veer left by keeping right and go straight up. At the slightly sloped break (About 1m below scooped out section) veer left to cross 'Wildcat' and take its left handbranch, topping out to the right of the bollard of "Lion Premiums".

The crack, taking the right-hand branch near the top with some doubtful holds.

Start: On the same block as 'Pangur Ban', 3 metres right of the arete.

Steeper than you expect.

Start: The middle of the orange wall on the detached block.

Up right of the overhang on the arete, move left below the small bulge and straight up on steep grey rock.

Start: Start at the left arete of the detached block.

Up line, step right to dodge gumtree (probably not any longer), then up.

Start: Start at juggy line 3 metres left of "Pangur Ban" on north-facing wall. This used to be 2 metres right of a large gumtree, but that has now fallen over and lies across the base of the climb.

The next four climbs are on west-facing wall left of and at right angles to Ray Ban and to the right of the large orange roof. On the right-hand side is a large "double chimney".

Start at the arete immediately right of the right-hand chimney.

Up, starting just left of the arete.

Not to be confused with the route of the same name at Muline. Take the right-hand chimney then up the orange corner above to pull through the "eye" (a gap in the small roof).

The right arete of the left-hand chimney.

Start: Start at the base of the left-hand chimney.

Thrutch up the left-hand chimney then up the orange wall. Pull up over rooflet then more easily.

Start: Start at chimney 3 metres left of "The Eye Of The Tiger".

A little contrived.

1. 45m (17) The right-hand line on the main face, leading up to the "lion's jaws". Near the top ignore the easiest line and climb more compact rock to the left. Belay below the jaws

2. 10m (-) Juggy wall left of the "jaws".

Superb, but all too short, orange wall. Originally done in two pitches. Start 13 metres left of Soaked And Smoked directly below an obvious break in the roof just left of the triangular orange wall and roof. Up to the roof at 10 metres(belay possible). Pull easily through roof then directly up the compact orange wall above. Tend right at the bush to finish beneath the "jaws".

Good rock and reachy crux. Start 2 metres left of Sylvester just left of the small orange roof. Follow the left-leaning diagonal cracks to the obvious ledge. Step right and up to the arete. Continue up the blunt arete and then more easily up the upper slab.

Good line with problematic start. Grade opinions vary between 16 and 18. Take the line up the left-hand buttress below the "lion's head".

A few metres right of "Watcha Gonna Call It" is a bottomless corner. A few metres right of Watcha Gonna Call It is a bottomless corner. Step off the block under the overhang to gain the corner and follow it.

This and next micro-route are behind the Lion's Head itself. From the top of Decapitating Tweety Birds walk back to the juggy wall immediately behind the back wall of the Lion's Head. On the right arete is a narrow strip of rock in an airy position. Climb the narrow band of smooth rock on the arete.

Sensational overhanging corner on left side of the wall. Exit right at the fianl roof, which can also be climbed direct.

Up to the ledge, step right around the arete, then up, tending slightly left toward the top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Masticating Mice" near the "arete".

The discontinuous line 2.5 metres left of Meow. Step off the block just to left of Meow, move diagonally left to the thin crack that finishes at a small flake. Up the line, over the flake and up.

Thin line just left of "Flea Bait".

The crack just left of "Here Kitty", starting on the right and joining the crack above the bush.

Not well-protected. Thin crack 1.5 metres left of the descent chimney.

Face 2 metres left of "Nice Puss", about 1 metre right of the descent chimney.

Not very well protected The wall and flake just left of Vanya Was A Black Feral Cat In Drag.

Good. Much better protection than Nice Puss Climb the wall midway between two flake lines to a crack at half-height. Finish up the crack.

Straight up to the flake, then up.

Start: Start at the left side of the "dished out" section of wall, directly below the flake in the middle of the wall.

Direct start to Decapitating Tweety Birds. Start 4 metres left of that climb. Up to and along the crack.

A bit sparse on gear in sections Start at a short groove in the right-hand face, 5 metres right of the right-hand flake. Climb the groove for 3 metres to a ledge. Step left and up the seam for 4 metres to a break. Follow break left for 4 metres to thin crack and up this, 1 metre right of flake line.

Start in same groove as "Decapitating Tweety Birds" and at the break continue directly up the wall.

Another variant. Start as for Decapitating Tweety Birds. Up groove to break. Go diagonally right to the obvious break in the wall and up.

An easy climb was done right of DTB in 1990 by Peter Allen and Kieran Sell. This may be the same climb. Start 3 metres right of Decapitating Tweety Birds. Up initial crack for 3 metres (use the tree or it's grade 16) then diagonally right to and up crack in upper wall.

Line 8m L of Masticating Mice. Up line to prominent slot and roof.Over roof and up wall above.

The most obvious climb on the cliff. Supposed to be a superb climb on solid rock.

Start: Start at the lowest point on the west side of the cliff.

Start as for "Restoring The Balance" but hand-traverse 2.5 metres right to the vertical line. Follow this line and continue steeply directly up the wall above.

The far left arete.

The grey slab visible uphill from "The Mountain Lion".

Starts on the left end of main orange wall near a large block on the face, 20m L of 'BTGPITN'. Technical move past a BR and a much better hold. Power up the wall and left to finish. Potentially an incredible sandbag or holds have fallen off (unlikely), as it seems at least 6 to 7 grades harder with poor protection before and after the bolt.

Powerful climbing with a truly evil start, up thin flake to overlap. Looks good, bolts may need replacing. The second pitch could be an anti-climax though.

Start: Start on wall left of prominent orange off-width corner at left end of crag.

1. 25m (27) Thin flake crack into shallow corner (4 FHs) and a grey scoop (BR) and one more FH. Step left and go up short wall to ledge.

2. 25m (17) The wall above, veering left.

Shares same start as Cellophane Heroes, but after intial crack continue straight up the thin crack past 2 RB to a DBB.

Shared start with 'Biblical Psychopaths'. Up large crack system to sloping ledge; a belay is possible here. Continue up the line in the small wall above to ledge, then up the chimney and easily up the slab and broken wall above.

Start: Start as for "Cellophane Heroes"

1. 15m (-) Up to sloping ledge.

2. 20m (19) Left to sweeping arete. a few difficult moves, and the way is obvious.

The wide corner-crack just right of "Cellophane Heroes" to ledge. Climb chimney of Cellophane Heroes to finish. Descent by scrambling down ramp systems under Upper Tier.

Start 3 metres right of the obvious corner-line ("Just Like The Wolgan"). Traverse rightwards from sickle crack to another thin crack, then up easy territory to ledge and DRB belay.

Start as for "Scud Tour Of Bagdad" but continue following the Sickle Line up to FH. Step right near top. Descent by scrambling down ramp system or continue up to the Upper Tier.

5 metres left of City of Joy. Start off block, delicate moves left from undercut to a mantle and up thin layaway crack. 3 bolts and trad to DRB anchor.

Bouldery start off block. A long reach is required to slot a bomber wire in the horizontal break (next to mystery bolt hole). Stretch across L, then go straight up crack and the shallow corner of Scud Tour of Bagdad.

Climb the central crack on the juggy wall.

Start: Starts at the slabby buttress at the right hand end of the upper tier. The route Air Raid is almost certainly a repeat of this climb.

Probably a repeat of Hussite... yet a grade easier? This route starts from the base of the cliff, directly below Hussite. 1) 14m Straight up to the terrace. 2) 25m Straight up Hussite’s crack.

Slab 3 metres left of "Hussite", 2 metres right of left arete.

Diagonally up right over the first overlap to left-leaning overlap. Surmount and follow the crack running diagonally left and up.

Start: Start left of "Bohemian" at the left wall of the buttress below a fault in the initial overlap.

Up and right to a thin crack and up to a ledge. Up a short crack and left to a long crack which is followed to the top.

Start: Start on the main slab 3 metres left of the "Five O'Clock Shadow" wall.

Straight up initial the slab, moving right across "Minties" just past the ledge to finish up the middle of the upper slab.

Start: Start as for "Minties"

Up to ledge with large tree. Step right to right wall. Up obvious large left-leaning diagonal crack for 2 metres then vertically up the wall above to finish between the large blocks.

Start: Start as for "Minties".

Good climbing up the most pronounced crack-line on the wall. Start 1 metre left of Minties Up the line, near the top stay mainly in the left of two cracks, switching back to the right to finish (loose blocks).

No protection.

Start: Start 4 metres left of "Mastermind".

Up the water-stained slab, over the thought-provoking bulge.

Up the diagonal crack for 8 metres, step left to follow another diagonal crack to the top.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Liars, Damned Liars and Politicians".

Very poor protection.

Start: Start at the flake 2 metree left of "Beachcomber".

Very poor protection. Start at the flake 2 metree left of Beachcomber. Up the flake then directly up the wall to finish about 1 metre to the left of Beachcomber.

Up the flake then diagonally left to the small ledge with a very small bush. Straight up.

Start: Start 2 metres left of "Peanut Butter Ramble".

At the left end of the orange wall is a large orange corner system. Follow the large orange corner, then through the first roof and up to the second. Step right or left and go up to ledge. Contin ue more easily and tackle the steep upper wall via the right-hand crack.

Start: Start on the arete 3 metres left of "Storm Warning"

1. 25m (13) The line 1 metre left of the arete and folow it past some roofs on the left to a good belay platform.

2. 23m (13) Steeply up left on good holds then continue up the line, taking the left crack in the upper wall.

Basically takes the left arete of the crag, at the base of a gully. Start 3 metres left of the right edge of the gully at a vegetated crack. Up and right across a small wall via a line of foot-holds. Up (crux) to gain arete. Trend leftwards and up via an orange flake bulging crack-line to a ledge below a roof. Pull through this on the right and finish up cracks.

Fifteen metres right of the orange wall is another running almost at right-angles to it. This wall is characterised by a steep orange section with a horizontal crack running to the arete and a large undercut roof. At the left end of the orange section of wall is a broken buttress/pillar.

Up to the orange section of wall. Traverse airily right to the arete on superb holds. Up the exposed arete, step left at the roof, diagonally up left, then straight up on rounded holds. Watch out for rope drag.

Start: Start at the broken buttress/pillar.

5 metres left of Sunny Days is a small broken wall leading to an upper slab. Start in the middle of this wall at the same left-facing corner created by a detached block (??)

Up centre of wall, then slab above. Follow crack through centre of steeper wall above.

Start: 8 metres left of "A 'Century' On The Old Scale" is a dark,steep crack at the right end of the main orange wall.

1. 25m (17) The crack, step left and up.

2. 35m (17) Up the slender buttress and small right-facing corner. Step right at rooflet and continue up arete.

Up wall and corner to large ledges. Walk 5 metres right and up wall, tending right to arete.

Start: Ten metres left of the prominen prow of the buttress is a short right-facing corner starting at about 3 metres,

Twenty metres right of the prow is a large chimney marking the end of the buttress. Up the chimney for 2 metres, step left onto arete and slant up diagonally left to top.

25 metres right of La Volley is a buttress with a left-leaning diagonal crack system. Poorly protected. Follow the crack system until it peters out then straight up.

Not bad for an accident. The left arete of the grey wall.

3 m right of Little Miss, climb up juggy wall into central, thin slabby crack. Small wires required.

This one goes all the way. Climb the middle of the wall, pretty much following the black streak.

There is an orange seam on the right side of the wall. Up this and hand traverse right on the orange wall over the roof.

Scramble up chimney around right arete till you can reach around to clip 1st bolt. Follow undercling/corner past 2 more bolts,until it ends. Reach right and then head straight up on gear.

Start as for MOTBQ. Clip 1st bolt then follow undercling all the way out to arete, up and back to anchor of MOTBQ.

The central line on the face.

They don't make climbs like this anymore. Climb the left edge of the outcrop.

Short corner around left end of the outcrop.

The grey, mossy wall around the arete at the left end of the main wall.

Lovely clean line 1.5m L of More Energy.

Start at the foot of the arete, 8 metres left of Sexual Blur. Hand traverse right along the break until it runs out. Up past small undercut block, left, then finish up Sexual Blur.

Diagonall left up the left-hand crack at the left end of the main wall to a ledge. Step right and finish up the steep wall. Crawling through the hole is cheating!

Variant finish to Anne Boleyn. From pea-pod take line up to thrilling finish.

One of the better climbs on the crag. No longer a chop route. Claimed by several parties but Mick was first. Climb the corner 1 metre right of Sexual Blur to the horizontal break. Step right and up the overhanging crack.

Good if you like traverses. Climb Anne Boleyn to the break then traverse right across the proudest part of the wall to a gully.