Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V12 | |||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Red Mist Boulder | |||||
V12 | Red Mist
FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Juju Rock | |||||
V12 | ★★★ Mojo Juju
On the downhill side of the boulder, from far right traverse leftwards using the obvious sloping crack accross the overhanging wall and topout frighteningly at the tallest point of the face. Mega FA: Oliver Miller, 2017 | 8m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths First Blood | |||||
V12 | ★★★ Silver Platter
Just left of the right end of the boulder is a scaly purple streak. Climb dimples to the shallow pocket, from where you make a big move left, finishing up the scoop. | ||||
V11 | |||||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Abyss Boulder | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Devil in the Detail | 8m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Ways of Being Boulder | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Ways of Being
Sit start on left-hand side of boulder, moving right through undercling and various pinches, finishing with a desperate and bare top-out. Good idea to suss the finish before getting there. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants The Taken Boulder | |||||
V11 | ★★★ The Taken
| 5m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bakelite Concept | |||||
V11 | ★★★ The Bakelite Concept
The beautiful cracked face is deceptively hard. From the stand start climb the face past a very hard deadpoint. FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths First Blood | |||||
V11 | ★★★ First Blood
Sit start on small side pull edges then up with difficulty compressing heinous slopers on the awesome prow/arete (slightly left of line in printed guide) FA: Simon Weill | ||||
V10/11 | |||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Quickening Boulder | |||||
V10/11 | ★★ The Thiccening
Start as for The Quickening, head right through crimps from the jug. | ||||
V10 | |||||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants The Taken Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ The Departed
Sit start left of the arete on a sloping break. Hard moves leading left before moving up to a high and commiting finish. FA: Simon Weill | 5m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Blackbeard's Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ London Gentleman
| 3m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Stoplight Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Stoplight Arete
Sit start/crouched on slopey edges and up pinching up the arete. FA: Oliver Miller | 4m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Blockhead Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★ Blockhead
Doesn't look like much but packs in some hard technical climbing. From a desperate sit start off side pulls climb the boulders nose past increasingly sloping holds. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Alchemy Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Alchemy
FA: Trent Searcy | ||||
V9/10 | |||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Quickening Boulder | |||||
V9/10 | ★★★ The Gathering
Sit start on the arete, slap up and finish as for The Quickening. FA: Matthew Lu | ||||
V9 | |||||
Wonderland Boulders | |||||
V9 | open project
Slopey and crimpy, partially overhanging and at least 6m high. Makes for an amazing boulder problem. Perhaps V9 or above. | 6m | |||
Town Cliffs Wing Wall | |||||
V9 | ★★ Debriefing and Cocktails
Sit start and climb the wall via crimps and pockets. Nice moves. FFA: Simon Weill, 2010 FA: Simon Weill, 2010 | ||||
V9 | ★★ Beating Wings
Sit start and climb the wall via the discontinuous crack. A good problem. FFA: Peter Reynolds, 2010 FA: Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Abyss Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★★ The Abyss
| 8m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants The Taken Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Waking life
| 5m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Quickening Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★★ The Quickening
| ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers The Walker Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★★ The Walker
Start from the back of the cave. Burst out to the lip and continue up the slopey arete. FA: Simon Weill | 3m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Blackbeard's Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★ Musk Up
| ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Immersion Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Immersion
On the east side of the boulder (facing downstream) is a blunt arete. From a sit start (the stand is a very good V8 in its own right) climb the edges right of the seam. Long moves lead to a tricky conclusion. Try not to ping off into the creek. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths First Blood | |||||
V9 | ★★ Second Blood
The line in the print guide, which is not how Arnie climbed First Blood. Start as for FB but shoulder up out of the flake to crap then better sloper pockets in seam to regain upper flake. | ||||
V8 | |||||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Pinch and Punch Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Pinch and Punch
Sit start from an undercling and a slopey lip. Pull straight up. | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Close Shave Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★ Eyes Wide Shut
Sit start on small edges. | 3m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants The Taken Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ BFG
| 5m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Magic Daddy | |||||
V8 | ★★ Rick Steel
One of Weill's faves. Sit start on underclings 2m left of the arete. Bust left to side pull, right to undercling pocket, then two very slopey pinches. Exit for Anonymous Arete | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers The Walker Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ CMD
From the start of The Walker, head right on crimps to finish on Evac. FA: Simon Weill | 3m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Beige Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Beige is All The Rage
Stand start under roof. Using underling pockets to start, move through lip and up the face. FA: Simon Weill | 3m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Blackbeard's Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Blackbeard's Delight | 3m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Juju Rock | |||||
V8 | ★★ The Fat Of The Land
The beefy main line of slopers going to the top of the uphill side of the boulder. Sit start on crimps and bad feet, climb up and right before big moves through the slopers and to the top. FA: Ollie Miller, 2016 | 6m | |||
V8 | ★ Contrivaband
From the big rock to the right of TFOTL, pull on and climb rightwards over small technical holds to finish above Trippa Snippa. Eliminate the juggy rail up high, stay low and techy. FA: Charlotte Garden, 2018 | 3m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Immersion Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Submersion
Start on flat jug, use the seam to stand up and hop for a slopey hold. Topout is tall and mossy but easy. FA: Callum Mather | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bath Shark | |||||
V8 | ★★ Bath Shark
Short and punchy. From a sit start on slopey edge and side pull, follow the prominent seam to a slabby exit. FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Rick & Morty Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Rick & Morty
The right arete doesn't look hard at first blush, but closer inspection reveals few holds. From a stand start balance up to a relenting finish. FA: Oliver Miller | 4m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths First Blood | |||||
V8 | ★ S&M Arete
The blunt arete on the track with a dihedral corner is climb from a stand start off a flat top jug. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Mars Attacks Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Mars Attacks
Climbs the blunt prow of the spaceship boulder from a sit start. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V8 | Fireline
In the cleft right of Mars Attacks is a diagonal pencil seam. Climb the seam from a stand start via several desperate moves - watch your back. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V7 | |||||
Town Cliffs Wing Wall | |||||
V7 | ★★ The Warm-up
Sit start and make a huge rockover to get the obvious crimp. Finish more easily. All about the timing and positioning. FFA: Simon Weill, 2010 FA: Simon Weill, 2010 | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Pinch and Punch Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★ A Duel of Hearts
| 6m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants The Taken Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Where the Wild Things Are
| 6m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Valley of the Wads Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ The World Cup
The right hand groove. | 4m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Slappers Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ The Dog-House
Climb the back left arête of the Slapper's Arête boulder. Starting lowest left hand side pull and slopey right hand sidepull. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Slapper's Arete (sit-start)
Sit start down left on side pulls. | 3m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Jamarcus | |||||
V7 | Jamarcus
FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Beige Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ Bermuda
Start with left hand under triangle feature and right hand on good rail to the right. Move left and finish up "Beige is all the rage." Starting holds are a bit high so may need to stack pads or jump start to establish if shorter. When established, the starting holds feel like jugs 👌 📹 Bermuda For an extra challenge, climb Bermuda without feet. Fun flowy campus finishing on a big move to the last jug. Feet on is okay to get undercling over the lip and top out. Adds a Vee point in difficulty. FA: Len Dalit, 23 Mar | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers The Bloody Face | |||||
V7 | There will be Blood
FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Royal Box | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Regal Passage
Start Low on Slopers at Aréte trend left then Dyno for the lip FA: Chook | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Railon Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ Rail to Rail
This line traverses the whole face and adds a challenging undercling section which requires good footwork to succeed. Start as for "Crimp Rail", traversing leftward to finish up "Swarm Up" (V2). FA: Jake, 31 Mar | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Crimp Rail
Excellent. Sit-start on right side of boulder matched on good sloper. Traverse leftward on jugs into double gaston. Make hard moves on good crimps and finish as for "Railup" (V4). FA: Jamie, 31 Mar | 4m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Juju Rock | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Trippa Snippa
The fantastic short ripple-textured wall on the uphill face of the boulder, far right hand side. Start with the crimps at face height and campus until you can put your feet somewhere useful before topping out right. This is also the easiest way off the Juju Boulder as its not far to jump to the ground from the upper holds of Trippa Snippa. FA: Ollie Miller, 2016 | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bath Shark | |||||
V7 | ★★ Shower Snake
From the same start as Bath Shark, climb left and up to a hard mantel. FA: Jimmy Campbell | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths First Blood | |||||
V7 | ★★ Third Blood
Sit start on left hand arete (be careful of the edge now) traversing right using the lowest holds before finishing up First Blood. https://www.instagram.com/p/C6A0yY2SpA-/ FA: Tom Hodgson | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Ceramics Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Copperhead
Start on obvious chalked rail (half a metre right of Ceramics) and work your way up the arête to a committing few moves up high. FA: Oliver Miller | 5m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths The Beanstalk Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ Jumping Jack
Just right of the tree in the middle of the face. From the edge and side pull, climb the seam above. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V6 | |||||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Hand of Fatima | |||||
V6 | ★ Manosphere
| 5m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Pinch and Punch Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ The Cross of Love
| 6m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants The Taken Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Take
| 5m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers White Shadow Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ White Shadow
FFA: Simon Weill | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Den of Dwarfs | |||||
V6 | ★ Tap the tit
On the back of The Crescent, Start on the large rail and move through the slopey edges. FA: Pat | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Magic Daddy | |||||
V6 | ★★ Magic Daddy
Start on the low jug, up the underclings and burst through the slopers | 4m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers The Walker Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Evac
FA: Simon Weill | 3m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Nicholas Cage Memorial Face | |||||
V6 | Gone in 60 Seconds
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Blackbeard's Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Sex Panther
Originally given v9 without the high right heel-toe cam. FA: Al 'Sex Panther' Robertson | 3m | |||
V6 | Lexit
| ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Heart Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★ J.E. Memorial Slab
Sit start on the low right hand crimp and left hand side pull/undercling. Straight up trend right to top. FA: Tyrone Clements | 5m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Juju Rock | |||||
V6 | ★ Underdose
Start low left of Overdose on small crimps. Make a few powerful moves up over small holds leading to the start holds of Overdose, continue up. FA: Ollie Miller, 2017 | 5m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Fairy Tales Rock | |||||
V6 | Tall Tales
Start as for Rapunzel on the magic pumpkin, but trend up and left with difficulty to the tallest part of the boulder. A tad contrived. FA: Damo Taylor, 2016 | 5m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Stoplight Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Stoplight Arete Left Variant
Start as for Stoplight Arete but bust out left via under clings and up face. FA: Jimmy | 5m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Diagonal Laneway Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★ Bad Boy Sandy
Just up the hill from Diagonal Laneway boulder. Start off big side pull and crimp, head up through spanny moves. Bit sandy but still worthy. FA: Callum Mather | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Courtyard Boulders | |||||
V6 | ★ Tsunami
On the back side of the boulder (left of where the 2 boulders rest against each other), sit start on the flat hold, up to slopers and short face. FA: Olliver Miller | ||||
V6 | ★ Nautilus
Climb You Beaut to the crimp. Then make a big span left to the arete. Match and hold the swing before swarming around the arete to finish up the slab. FA: Peter Reynolds, 18 Dec 2017 | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bear Necessities Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Baloo
Sit start on crimps, head left and up through gaston and crimp to a high top out. FA: Callum Mather | 6m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bakelite Concept | |||||
V6 | ★★ Plastic Facts
From the start holds of TBC, climb the diagonal rightwards. FA: Oliver Miller | 3m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bath Shark | |||||
V6 | ★★ Twin Fin
Climbs the right arete. Start on the faux tufa and follow the vertical seams up the blunt arete to top out. FA: Simon Weill | ||||
V6 | ★ Layer Cake
Stand start just right of tree, finishing via a desperate mantel. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V5 | |||||
Wonderland Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★ Winter Wonderland
Two Hand sit-start up to thin edges and eventual jugs to the top. | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Hand of Fatima | |||||
V5 | ★ Lost Negative
| 5m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Pinch and Punch Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ The World is a Napkin
Start on the slopey jug and move right before tricky face climb. | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Weilly Annoying Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Weilly Annoying
| 5m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants The Taken Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Shakey Taylor | 5m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Big Bastard | |||||
V5 | Little Bastard
| 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Classic Langers
| 4m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Frankston Boulders | |||||
V5 | Like Stealing Candy From a Baby
| ||||
V5 | ★ Derailed
Sit start. Make a big move over the lip. | 2m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Magic Daddy | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Anonymous Arete
The right arete is a classic that has a sting in the tail. Sit start on the underclings and climb up left past a pocket and into slopey finish. | 3m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Felching Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Feltching Season
Is this the Weill's favourite time of the year? Looks unlikely for the grade (and, obviously, could be spoogey). Sit start off LH undercling and RH side-pull then go up the blunt arete. FA: Simon Weill | 3m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Korean Jesus | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Korean Jesus | 5m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Nicholas Cage Memorial Face | |||||
V5 | Con Air
FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers The Alcove | |||||
V5 | ★★ A Rebel to Authority
Probably the best line at the Alcove. Sit-start left hand on jug, right hand on choice of low crimps. Get the bomber pinch, stay low, and slap rightward to double slopers before mantelling the face. FA: Jamie, 31 Mar | 3m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Juju Rock | |||||
V5 | ★★ Boozoo Bajou
On the north facing wall, downhill end. Sit start on good holds, move up and left over bulge through slopers, crimps and pinches. Top out and scramble to the summit of the boulder. FA: caillan sainsbury, 2018 | 4m | |||
V5 | Fat Mans Land (gym climber variant)
Climb the best part of Fat Mans Land through the two perfect slopers, then shamefully escape right to the ledge because you hate highballs and you climb in a gym too much. Could also be started as for The Fat Of The Land, but if you're that strong and you escape right then you deserve a paddling. FA: 2018 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Fat Mans Land
The moderate variant to TFOTL, still very worthwhile. Step off the boulder on the right pulling onto the first major sloper of TFOTL and continue up. FA: caillan sainsbury, 2018 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Cocaine Overdose
Link Cocaine into Overdose. Long, pumpy, powerful, technical, awesome! FA: caillan sainsbury, 2017 | 10m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Fairy Tales Rock | |||||
V5 | ★★ Peter Pantastic
Make the first few moves of Rapunzel, but before the topout traverse powerfully rightward a few meters and gain the top to the right side of the over-hanging prow. FA: joel wilson | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Rapunzel
Sit start low on the Magic Pumpkin, move powerfully up and right through the awesomely featured face to gain the top. FA: joshua brown, 2015 | 4m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Humping An Orca | |||||
V5 | Humping An Orca
Balance up the slab. FA: Ollie Tobias Bugg | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Silver Linings Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Every Cloud
Sit start around R of SL on an obvious positive edge. Up L on the slopes and side pulls. FA: Matt Brooks, 5 Mar | 3m |