Routes in North Grampians

Start up steep crack 2 metres right of WDYDtL?, right to flake, up

Start: Start as for 'The Phantom Cocky Killer of Troopers Creek Arms' ledge to continue up past FH and steep moves to high ledge. DBB Rap 15m to ground

Stand start from middle of slab then climb up and top out.

Highball (6 metres) slightly overhung face route. Crux is the first move (big) but a tricky finish awaits.

Just right of waterfall

Arete on the right up. Sit start for hard variant.

About 10m L of 'Inkido Roof' is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases.

2 bolt boulder start to RS. Classic!!

sit start on good holds and climb the arête left of axe to grind

Popular. Sit start on good flakes at the lowest part of the roof and climb the line of flakes, pinches and edges all the way out to cruxy moves at the lip. Finish at the big jug on the face or top out.

Sit start on the block and seam under the small rooflet. Move left and up the flakeline to top out over the nose. *Note a intermediary hold has broken off just above the block. Completion of the problem is still possible and maintains the V3 grade

Slabba-dabba-do! An absorbing, exacting and extremely long pitch. The lengthy co-crux slab sections are unique for the 'Grampians'. Take 6 brackets, cams from micro to #3, and a few wires. There's ledge-fall potential at the 2nd FH (oops). A retrobolt above the 1st bolt (and shifting the 1st bolt a bit lower) would be welcomed. Until then, a quick safer option is to scoot up the easy first 8m of 'Simpleton', walk R to Present's 3rd bolt, and lower off it to pre-clip/pre-extend the 2nd bolt. You could also climb this as a fantastic 24/5 by starting up 'Simpleton' and linking into this pitch at the 3rd bolt. Start: Scramble up to the ledge/terrace, 2-3m R of 'Simpleton', and 8m L of the start of 'Missing'. Straight up between Simpleton & Missing, past 2 FHs, 5 carrots (glue-in stainless) & Missing's crux bolt. Join Missing only for a bodylength, namely it's crux. Up high, stay 3-4m R of Simpleton until almost at the capping roof. If your rope is "only" 60m long, you may wish to belay here to avoid simul-climbing 5m. Finish out the roof of Technical Ecstasy.

Fun traversing on superb aesthetic stone. Full set of cams. Has also been done by starting up the unpleasant flakes 10m L of Great Divide (see 16a on topo). You can do a 150m girdle of Taipan, via The Mint, Arabic Mint and Lawrence of Arabia (the full thing is yet to be done in a single push).

Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the far right hand end of the elevated ledge. Put your belayer on the wide ledge 6m below the start, so they can see the crux.

1. 32m (21) Step down from R end of ledge to hand traverse R under large roof, cross Great Divide, and continue traversing R to Seventh Banana's first anchor.

2. 10m (17) Continue traversing R to Sirocco's first anchor. Rap off (18m).

Sit-start from a low 'horizontal and slightly higher (LH) one - then motor up the left-trending vague arete using crimps - until you can lock up and right to a big pocket/jug. Solid at the grade.

Line just right of 'Anal Head'.

Warning: crux is on 3m fall onto rocks.

Tall, overhanging bubbly rock anticlockwise from Shiitake 2 or 3 meters. Start from sidepulls and head up to juggish slopers, then up to sidepulls and crimps on overhang to the right.

To the right of Caffeinator, sit start the crack.

Sit start on slopey rail.

Surprisingly good.

This route has been upgraded from 16 to 17 in the guide "Sublime Climbs" 2011 by K.Lindroff, J.Goding & J. Hodgson.

Personally, I tend to agree with the upgrade (Con Dritsas).

Sit start between GHMT and BMR below the twin seams. Out to lip via the obvious thin but positive pockets.

Start below a left-leaning closed corner line, right of centre of the face. Up to the base of the corner, then up a couple of body-lengths until able to pull up right around the arête and onto the face. Up. 4 FHs.

Start as for Jugged on triangular hold and head right on slopers and crimps to finish as for Jugged.

Gently overhanging with great moves on pockets then a steep finish via a big scoop.

Starts in the little alcove. Thin techy bolted slab. Runout but very easy climbing to the anchors.

6.5m right of Toasting Fork.Up to thin move right then straight up.

aka The Dopeman 'Extension'. An excellent line across a prominent feature. A modern classic that was somehow overlooked in the first VD Land onslaught.

Start: Start on ledge at finish of 'The Dope Man'.

Start at right end of the boulder following the flake up to the top.

Some parts of flakes look really thin.

Sit start on the slot before connecting to 'Some Days You Bore'.

Upper Cave.

A great looking arete-type weakness that isn't too hard for the grade. Climb the obvious line just right of 'Donald's' start and head right to finish.

The RH crack weakness starting with a sit-start

Sit start to the right of Exposed.

Sit start under the roof at the obvious juggy ledge. Sit start at the obvious juggy ledge. Move up to flakes in the roof and left to mantle over the ledge.

(Make sure the head is protected from the rock behind by a pad or close hand)

Sit start with a side pull on the large, juggy flake.

Start on two underclings (don't stack pads) then move up to the rail and finish as for 'Drowning Dicaprio'.

Start as Ocean Rain for a few bolts then go directly up thin grey wall.

Stand start from jug then climb up and top out.

The obvious left to right traverse along the bottom left side of Spurt Wall.

Sit start at the base of the leaning arete. Mantle into the scoop and climb straight up on slopers and edges.

The best sport climb at its grade in the Grampians!? Start of the R end of the ledge about 10 R of CIC. Follow the bolts and jugs up the face to DUB. Best to rap off as lowering kills the rope.

Start below Live long and Prosper he'd diagonally left and then up the blank grey wall

SS with letterbox jug past small edge in roof to the lip. Mantle.

Short problem on the right-side of the wall with a very awkward low sit-start.

Closed Project - super hard, starts off the ledge R of DNIT, climbs straight up the wall to join it at the end of the traverse.

Starts in the scoop 4m R of Stallone, diagonally up to break, traverse then pull the lip trying to stay off the holds on Stallone then slab to rings.

The clean arete right of TFC. Trundle up the blocky start then step on and resist any urge to bridge. Like kabana by the campfire, the don is the goods!

Sit start at the base of the leaning arete and climb leftwards up the line of slopers and flakes. A classic for the grade!