Routes in North Grampians

A tricky start leads to enjoyable climbing.

Start: Start just R of the twin cracks, 15m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

Starts as for 'Karl' - but keeps traversing right - to a big move for a lone crimp up and right - then the top. Beware of the thin lip holds!

Sit start on the jugs on the arete.

Upper Cave.

Has quite a reputation... One of the best problems for its grade. Starts just left of 'Donald'. Sit-start on two opposing sidepulls and climb the central 'rib' line directly via a very bad sloper, a pinch, and some sneaky footwork. Can also be done via a LH sequence using a big move to a bad sloper (RH) - then to the slopers on the lip, before moving up to the high jug. Solid at the grade either way.

Uhuru film channel

Satoshi

Sit start at Spanking the Monkeybars.

Big move L along the rail to decent edges. Hold on tight and move through pockets in the roof to match on the slopey lip.

Sit start and climb the line up the right side of the wall using the arete and good holds on the face.

A superbly positioned bouldery little pitch. Makes a logical 3rd pitch for The Great Affair now that that has been freed. Start at the second belay of The Seventh Pillar. Blast up the surprisingly overhung headwall, trending a little R, past 2RBs and a medium cam. Lower off anchor. Rebolted 2018.

Small LH seam and good RH edge. Pounce to a pocket then top out up the groove. FA Alistair Robertson.

Sit start with side pull and pockets. Desperately to small crimps then dyno to lip when falling off.

A fun, though dank, warmup flake traverse starting in the small corridor between the two slabs.

Sit start on the juggy holds under the roof. Move back to a bad undercling and make a hard move to the pocket on the arete. Finish up Golden Oldie.

Start on Strammamax and into Endamax. Traverse into and finish on Lost for Life

Starts 50m left of the dungeon. Near the access gully. Up very nice layback flakes to anchor.

Up Menstrual then head right past a few more bolts, should be more popular but run out at the crux.

The line of FHs to the left of ‘Don’t cheat on me’. Start with obvious pockets and small edges to good rest. Big move over bulge, then up and left to glue-reinforced hold. Big moves on good holds through overhang to anchor.

Right rising traverse on low prow boulder to the right of Darjeeling Express

The very attractive line right of 'Family Loss' starting with a very low sit start under the roof utilising a LH pinch/pocket on the rib and a large RH gaston. Up through slopers and another gaston (or sidepull) to finish.

Varied, steep and enjoyable. Appears to be well travelled. Just around the right arete of Big Chimney Corner an undercut start leads to a steep wall, up this to finish up the short corner above. FA Unknown

Start up Constrictor's slab past the bolt, then (instead of traversing the break R as per the original) continue straight up following the chalked slopers of World Party's first pitch to ledge and lower-off.

The slopey funnel a metre or so left of Bad Moon Rising. Sit start from the break (not the underclings above). Pretty good.

Starts a few meters right of Fantasm. Climb past twin orange ribs and up. FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews Jan 1985

Up the left arête of the downhill face of the boulder via 5 FHs. 2FH to belay.

Start in the back of the cave as for 'The Show Must Go On'. Using the undercut crack, climb right and finish as for 'Encore'.

Arch those eyebrows. More thin and consistent face climbing. Stick clip the first bolt, watch your back, and no bridging on the boulder. Double U’s at anchor.

Thin and steep bolted slab with superb technical moves 2m R of FPA.

3m right of Silly Old B. Diagonal crack to the right, then corner.

Located on the face other side of the flake.

Nice looking wall with three bolts and sling anchor (which will inevitably need replacing). The start of this route has shed many holds, and the first two carrots have been overdriven such that getting a bolt plate onto them is a real crux.

Sit start in slot on the arete.

Powerful crimping.

An alternative to scrambling up the gully. About 10m R of the access gully for 'Brandywine' is a chimney. Up this then broken ground above. Easier than it looks.

Bouldery crux. First bolt of 'Back Stabbath' then slight left leading line which punches through a small orange shield of great rock. Bottom is a bit sandy.

The longest pumper on the wall. Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Last Waltz.

Start as for 'Iceberg Left' but continue straight up and top out onto the slab. Note: Broken crux hold as of 2021, yet to be re-climbed. Likely at least V11 now.

Start as for Mr Knox. Follow the obvious line of good holds out of the cave and head right via big moves to the arete. Continue up the right-hand arete to top out.

As for TVDSRL to lip then a few more technical moves up right to gain slopes on upper lip and mantle. Could be easier... we were pretty baked. These have clearly been done before so feel free to edit.

As for the Grampians Boulder Guide 2016 Edition.

Sit start at bucket low on wall right of arete. Climb up and left on jugs/slot to mantle.

Very low sit-start then traverse left - then back right to finish on the good jug. The direct straight up from the pockets (dyno) is V4/5.

Up clean orange face and up through the crux roof pull 3m R of GOTTV. Clip and lower anchor.

Pocketed face on average sandy rock that stays dry in rain to the right of ‘The Jump Line’. Hard extension through the bulges is an open project waiting for a strong climber.