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Routes in Northern Wonderland Range for selected grade

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Showing all 38 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Venus Baths Courtyard Boulders
V0 Duck's Nuts

Start on the chalked crack just to the right of the V3. Head straight up.

Boulder 5m
Mackeys Peak
16 Second Choice

Looks a bit pointless. From 18m up 'Jagger' go R into finger crack. Up this for 5m to overhang. Step R, go over overhang then back L to finish up 'Jagger'

FA: Carl karancsay, Trevor Fiske & Gerald Gierer, 1986

Trad 30m
16 The Righteous

An old long forgotten classic. Good fun and a good line.

Start: 'Steep' corner 3m R of 'Rimbaud'.

  1. 20m (16) Up to some exciting moves around first big overhang. Continue up corner which becomes steeper, wider [BD4 or large hex useful] and more strenous to final steep exit over bulge to good ledge.

  2. 25m (14) Up undercut chimney on L as for 'Rimbaud' or straight over steep bulge above [about grade 15.]

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst [alt], 1967

Trad 43m, 2
Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Fairy Tales Rock
V0 The BFG

The best rock you can take your non-climber date to climb on. On the downhill side on the blouder use large flake to traverse miles left to a topout on the far left of the boulder. Enjoy the view at the top.

FA: caillan sainsbury, 2015

Boulder
Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Rabbit Rock
V0 Mixin-me-toasties

Left of Slap A Bunny. Climb the featured face.

FA: Harriet Negus, 2016

Boulder 2m
The Elephants Hide
16 R Hide of a Wino

Unprotected at the hard parts, but some quite nice climbing. 24m L of PS at very L end of overlap at 3m. Over this and up slab past obvious knob [10m up, first pro] for 15m, then diagonally R to flakes. Up these until they run out in 10m. Now 3m up knobby wall, then 3m diagonally L up unprotected delicate wall. Up slab for 10m and little wall above.

FA: Mike Law [solo], 1991

Trad 60m
Blockbuster Buttress
16 Blockbuster
Trad 30m
Crock Wall
16 Shuper Sheet

The buttress left of Barabajagal with sparse protection

Trad 28m
16 Dynomotive

The black streak 3m L of Precarious is thin and unprotected. Up the streak to a ledge at 6m then the corner on the R hand end of the ledge.

FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1981

Trad 23m
Point Sunshine
16 Red Herring
Trad 30m
16 Ayesha
Trad 48m
The Lower Goon
16 The Voyage of the Beagle
Trad 30m
16 Sic Transit Gloria
Trad 26m
16 Rounders
Trad 23m
The Upper Goon
16 A Quarter of Jelly Babies
Trad 40m
16 Mrs Fitzsimmons
Trad 20m
16 John Snagg
Trad 31m
Signal Peak
16 Heliograph
Trad 45m
The Grand Canyon East Wall
16 Wild Horses
Trad 25m
16 Hot Summer's Day
Trad 22m
16 Californian Girls
Trad 23m
The Wall of China Southern Outcrops
16 Bringing it Back

Start up major crack 4m R of TS and marking RH end of wall. L onto arete at 3m, then up and slightly L of arete

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2007

Trad 25m
16 The Crow

Novel little exercise. Line up front of pinnacle to a rounded exit. Harder and steeper than it looks. Either abseil off using the bollard on the summit, or leave a rope comnnected to a ground anchor [like a tree] and abseil down the opposite side.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2007

Trad 11m
16 Lost Property

Start up crack 1m R of The Crow pinnacle. Step R at overhang. Up, steeply at first. Hard to find a belay on top. To descend either jump across the gap and chimney down, or leave a ground anchor and abseil down the gap.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2007

Trad 20m
16 Choughed

R of Lost Property is a large protruding buttress. Towards RH edge of buttress is a short jagged R leaning hand crack starting 5m up.

P1 (20m, 16) Up to crack then up this to groove. Follow groove to bulge, pass R of this and up to large platform.

P2 (10m, 8) From back of platform step across gap and up to top of pinnacle. Step across gap.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody [alt], 2012

Trad 30m, 2
16 Australian Story

Good climbing. Up PF for 4m then up R wall to shallow, R slanting, 2m ramp. From top of this go up then slightly L.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2007

Trad 22m
16 Rising

Around the L arête of the Lazarus and Jonah block is a steep side wall. Start from the top of the block/rock step half way along this wall. Step up to below crack, traverse R to second crack, step R to third crack, up this.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2013

Trad 18m
The Wall of China South-eastern Outcrops
16 Sang Kyu Bai

Start 2m right of Yangtze. Climb the middle of the face and move left to finish up Yangtze.

Trad 17m
16 Chinese Burning Tower

Add about 8 grades if you don't use a "cheater stone" to reach the twin knobbed nodule up and just right of the initial crack!! Up crack and runnel above.

Trad 15m
The Wall of China Main Wall
16 Chinese Take-away

Prominent overhanging crack [first good line R of descent gully] at L end of a yellow section of wall. Step up and R to crack. It widens and steepens near the top.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Richard Hitchins & Iain Sedgman, 1978

Trad 20m
16 Tibet
Trad 25m
16 Little Bourke Street Direct Start

Start 3 m left of arete. Incuts to join original route at end of ramp.

FA: Glen Donohue, Graeme Smith & Andrew Webb, 1996

Trad 7m
16 Fire Dragon

Beyond the LH end of the wall with the bolted sport routes are 3 deep old fashioned cracks. This is the LH one in a R facing corner. A good steep exercise in awkward jamming and bridging technique. [This route was shown as being The Good Soldier Schwiek in the Select Guide]

FA: Mike March, Terry Brooks & Iain Sedgman, 1973

Trad 23m
16 Hung Low
Trad 27m
The Wall of China Echo Cave Area
16 Falling Echoes
Trad 15m
Garden of the Grampians
16 Trouble in Kitchen

Delicate and run-out finish. Up B&B for 3m. Up flake on R, then up and R on face, then up and L to finish

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2005

Trad 18m
16 Snail Trail

Great climbing. 35m right of At Play in the Fields of the Lord. Crack up front of narrow buttress then thin crack in upper block.

FA: Rob Burton, Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 2007

Trad 20m
16 Dewey

Starts 2m R of chimney. Up steep wall then crack.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & Rob Burton, 2007

Trad 8m

Showing all 38 routes.

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