Routes in South-Eastern Grampians for selected grade

Up the L side of the LH side wall of the block 10m R of TBM

From behind 'Three Blind Mice' follow the upper tier to its LH end [about 100m]. Look for a buttress with a neat looking crack splitting its short clean summit block. Up groove down and R of this crack, stepping L to finish up crack.

Walk off to L.

The cliff here abouts took quite a hammering in the fires [it was probably always a bit unstable]. Once you get more than about 10m up everything is dangerously shattered and unstable, some VERY large stacks of blocks are just perched waiting to go.

Start: 6m R of MO

1. 23m (14) From chipped initials climb corner then up slightly R to ledge below prominent corner.

2. 20m (14) L corner crack and on past blocks to foot of P3 of MO

3. 23m (14) As for P3 MO.

Once you get past the lower 15m of broken rubbish this a surprisingly good old fashioned steep route. The rock is a bit frail in places.

Start: Right of 'Algiers' is a big buttress split by a major chimney/crack line. 'Scurvy' takes that line.

1. 15m (10) The aim is to get to the big tree below the crack on the major buttress without handling too much shattered rock. Possibly best to head up near 'Algiers' and traverse R to the tree.

2. 25m (14) The awkward V groove to ledge.

3. 20m (14) R and up steep crack with some exciting sections to ledge. Watch for loose holds.

4. 14m (10) Easy wall from back of block.

Walking the plank would be preferable. Even the first ascent party said it was unbelievable choss.

Start: L facing line 5m R of 'Landlubber'. Initialled.

1. 26m (14) Line to cave.

2. 30m (-) From cave go diagonally R over loose blocks, continue up line to exit up R.

3. 8m (-) Scrub and the line to next ledge.

4. 23m (-) Traverse L to chimney, up to ledge.

5. 18m (-) Up.

Chimney-crack up front of Coyote Pinnacle. Above ledge, take finger-crack, then face.

From the back of the pinnacle, go up left on easy blocks, then steeply up right.

Start 3 metres right of 'Free To Air' Better than it looks, which might not be saying much.

1. 30m Climb black, left-facing corner/gully to large block on right at about 20m. Crack, small corner, then slab above to ledge.

2. 30m Up left on to next ledge. Left on this for 4m to eucalypt. Now steeply up right, then straight up line.

Not located but somewhere near 'Florentine Pogen' or 'Dog Breath'

First pitch takes one of the most prominent lines on the cliff. May be undergraded. Giant corner 60 metres left of 'Tonto'.

1. 35m (14) Giant right-facing corner can be started on the right or directly, Up corner to belay in niche below a large guano stain. There may be an old piton here.

2. 15m (14) Up corner on poor rock for 5 metres then right across slab and then hand traverse right to ledge.

3. 23m Right again for 12 metres, up past bush at overhang to cave.

4. 30m (14) Over bulge and up to roof and right to chimney-groove.

Start as for 'Pocahontas'. This alternative finish looks outrageous for the grade.

Initialled line 24m left of descent gully.

7m R of 'Torero', initailled. Slabby wall then corner.

Sustained and varied, really very good. Initalled crack 2m R of SF. Up crack to overhang then up shallow V corner in orange wall to overhang. Turn overhang on R then up wall and blocks.

Climb initialled corner 30m R of 'Puppet' then continue up crack. A bit dirty and fiddly to protect at the top.

Up tiered corner L of pinnacle [which is 30m above ground] Traverse L below roof then up steep broken ground. Abseil from tree.

Start: Yet to be located. Possibly 2m L of 'Snuffy'.

Awful first pitch. At the R edge of the gully/groove line R of Swarm is a large detached pinnacle.

P1 (34m, 14) Up the R side of the pinnacle then R ward into a series of short corners leading to a ledge below a steep exit crack.

P2 (12m, 14) Crack and chimney

Initialled TD. About 22m R of 'Excalibur', and 7m R of 'Yesukai' are a pair of short corners just R of some rooves. Up the RH corner to a ledge, rising traverse L ward for 3m then up short wall to ledge. Up wide crack, then short walls, cracks and gullies to top.

Classic outing.

Start: start below the only real line on the wall, 100m left of the right arete (down climb)

1. -m (-) Climb wall to crack through overhang and up flake-crack. Exit right.

2. 24m (-) Step down and traverse right to crack. Up to blocks.

3. 45m (-) Go right 3m, up 10m then veer up left for 28m. Left slab to small tree.

4. 44m (-) Up left to traverse left. Go up from blocks to overhang. Traverse left to big line and up on to left wall.

5. 36m (-) On to left arete of face. Veer up left past big dead tree, then climb corner on left to overhangs. Traverse right and go up to exit right to second dead tree.

6. 44m (-) Crack to cully. Leave it when cracks lead up right wall.

Start: Crack 6m right of arete (the right of two) at left end of steep orange wall (about 400m left of \"Sweet Sixteen\"

1. 40m (14) Crack 4m right of Black Boys, then off-width. Up.

2. 20m (14) Chimney, then scramble up gully

Line 2m right of Give Me a Break, which curves up left side of face.

Quite good. Cairned crack 4m right of Fallen Angels.

Loose. 30m down and round right of Predatory Pussy is a prominent crack on right wall of a recess (a bit like Boomer at Mount Arapiles). Cairned. Climb slabby overlap to ledge. Up crack.

Line with big block up from Bagnolet.

From 7m up gully, start up first crack, then go up and left to bigger one.

As for Up The Spout. Left before chimney and finish up line.

V-corner 10m right of BSAF.

Chimney 1m right of Cry Free.

From the anchor on top of Orb Weaver step right around arete and go straight up using easy steps. Follow the narrow crack to next ledge. Slightly run-out easy scramble for the last few meters

Broken corner right of caves, leading into Echo And The Bunny Men.

Small, right-facing corner 2m left of left buttress from ledge. Follow twin cracks that converge on upper wall to dirty exit.

Adventure climbing. Be prepared for exposure, getting off-route and steep scrub on the descent. If this is the kind of climbing you like, be prepared for a great day out.

A mega line with some mega choss. The big corner in the middle of the face for 5 pitches.