Routes in Launceston (Cataract) Gorge for selected grade

Up the front to the horizontal break, go left. Bolted lower off.

Start in the yellow corner, up to break, finish on arete. Bolted lower off.

Extreme left face. Originally a solo.

The left side of the main face has some large flake underclings. Follow these to the boulder and climb over the face of the top boulder.

Bridge the fused corner and then nice finger crack above.

The thin crack splitting the buttress. Very obvious when walking along the shady side track. The original name and first ascent details seem to have been lost in the mists of time. The crack takes good gear, or could reasonably be protected with a couple of boulder pads to cover up the talus.

The corner with thin crack 2m right of Choking the Chicken. An interesting stemming problem.

Fun, technical climbing up the thin crack line starting from the sloping ledge. There is a good small wire (RP or peanut) to protect the balancy high step move near the bottom.

Starting on the side pull just left of the fugitive crack, move left into large underling. Follow the thin crack via spikes and finish straight up the face using double aretes to top out.

Another 5m upstream is a corner.

Thin crack with a slight overhang to start. Finger pocket starting hold into the thin crack at the top.

On upstream face. Route with old rusty piton, now superseded by a fixed hanger. Take some small cams for the middle section. At the big ledge, either finish up the left crack or straight up the bolt protected face. Tree belay

Bolted line right of lady midnight. Climbs the face and arete, with delicate climbing between a couple of powerful moves. DBB

Rappel from anchor located at the base of dreams of Broken Glass (down and right of lady midnight). Rappel to hanging belay. Climb out the shallow corner finger crack. Best done at low tide.

The thin bolted pinnacle

On the riverside face of the lower pinnacle (out of sight from main areas). 3 FH’s + medium to large cams. Easiest to rap to base of route via the downstream side (passing below Thin Fiend) to locate the DBB. Alternatively, a short 5m rap (veering slightly downstream) is possible from the DBB at the base of The Prow. Rap bolts located on top of pinnacle.

Starting at The base of Fatman buttress, traverse upstream to Gabriel buttress. best done at high tide when the water is deeper. Dangerous falls and some hard and high sections with unknown and generally shallow water depth.

On downstream face of The Gully. Rap to ledge. Line of fixed hangers closest to the river.

From the halfway ledge, climb the far right crack line finishing just left of the big chockstone. Tree belay.

One of the best trad routes on the Sunny Side! The prominent crack splitting the arete on the upstream face of the gully. Trends left into gully and traverses right using jugs through rooflet, finishing up crack to belay ledge. DBB

Trad line on the upstream face. Bolt protected crux down low. DBB

Open corner to thin crack DBB

Line of thin seams & cracks on the face R of bolted arete. DBB

Start up cowardice and instead of going around the roof go left onto the face where there is one bolt and then natural pro. Reachy

The thin technical bridging corner. DBB

The diagonal crack

Offwidth on far right with wire at the top

The obvious clean offwidth on the buttress set back slightly from the track. Good climbing which actually doesn't require too much wide crack technique. DBB

Shares the same start chimney and first FH as TBTSFBG. The route only becomes visible when you move left on the first big ledge. Step in from the block at the base and bridge up the semi open book corner. A few delicate face moves on small holds. Shares the same top anchor as TBTSFBG.

Climbs lest side of face to a big ledge and up sharp corner.

Rough finger crack with a little roof

Hard start to steeping crack

Excellent face and slappy arete climbing. Climb the bolted face of the obvious double arete/seperate pillar. Start at base of pillar, using chockstone for left foot if needed once climbing. DBB.

Jam crack to offwidth. Take a #5 Camalot.

On the downstream side of the pinnacle. Scramble up ramp, slightly wide crack with a fused section after the horizontal break. The anchors for history maker can be used for a toprope anchor with a long chord and it is best to rap off those same bolts.

Obvious clean finger crack in dark coloured rock. Good finger locking directly up the crack. Harder if you avoid bridging onto the hanging arete on the left. DBB added Jan 2016.

First rope on the big wall

Up the obvious groove in the right side of the chimney to grassy ledge. Clip bolt then climb the balancy arete past two more bolts to DBB.

Nice finger crack (gear) to ledge, then three bolts up the corner and arete. DBB.

Downstream facing corner in the middle of the main face.

The thin crack on the bottom level on the right.

Above Skidrow Buttress. Easily accessed from the carpark.

Up crack/flake to immediate L of Sawsea, moving left to join Joy at overlap.

The obvious overhanging offwidth located immediately above the first 'pitch' of Skidrow.

Bridge your way up the thin pillar on the right hand side of the ledge until its possible to traverse left into the ripper finger crack splitting the top of the buttress. DBB

A long abandoned Danny Ng project - recently revived after a scrub, and the addition of a couple of extra bolts and an anchor (located at the beginning of the blankness)…PS there’s no glory jug!!

Climb the detached pillar (stick clip recommended), and onto the face via x2 U’s and x2 carrots. DBB. The originally conceived finish can still be attempted (take a blue walnut, or a .4 camalot) to the SOTT anchor, and is an open project. Go for your life…

Right hand crack behind the pillar

Right hand side of detached pillar - #3 cams to start.

The thin crack on front of buttress.

Blank corner with tree part way up on RHS

Finger crack on LHS of lower tier.

Thin seam into chimney, which needs a bit of a clean.

Obvious left trending crack line. Rap from sling around chockstones.

Second crack from the L

The short bolted arete just downstream of Kiwi Fruit Jam Gully. No anchor

The nice looking widening finger crack. Located 2 minutes up the gully on the upstream wall.

Left of HoG. Start in chimney, and left onto bolted face. Tree belay.

Stand start in the centre of the slab, with a great 2 finger pocket for your right hand, and a single finger one digit crimp, from there head straight up the slab to top out.

Crouch start on good incut crimps and bad feet, big move and mantle to the top.

Start on the same horn as Earl of Lemongrab and head straight up and over the highest bit of the wall. Careful at the top as it is rather high, easiest way down is to jump onto the walking track and hop the handrail on the other side back into the gully.