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Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

It's sharp and it's wide. And then it gets sharper and wider. Bring big gear. About 50 meters north-east (down the hill) of Inquisition.

FFA: Chris Ferre & Philly Briglia, 16 Dec 2017

FA: Chris Ferre & Philly Briglia, 16 Dec 2017

Thrutch the chimney all the way to the top! Gear is sparse.

FFA: Chris Ferre & Philly Briglia, 16 Dec 2017

FA: Chris Ferre & Philly Briglia, 16 Dec 2017

Follow the crack up to half height, and then head right and up.

Mega burly finger crack.

Burly but not sharp tips finger crack. Move right when it ends and join up with topout for Inquisition.

FA: unknown

This major corner is a real delight and is a great introduction to granite crack climbing. Traverse L under the overhang and up. Take a big cam for the traverse.

Directly below the Inquisition block. Stand start using the boulder below and make a tough move to reach the top of the short wall/arete. Pretty mossy now and needs a good clean.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2013

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sun 30 Apr
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