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Table of contents
- 1. Tiger Face 15 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Tiger Face 15 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: -28.203912, 152.727263
- Tiger Face LHS:
- Tiger Face RHS:
summary
Roughly 800m of super daunting cliff: 60m high at its lowest point (N.E. Buttress) and 140m high at its highest (just left of The Graveyard Ridge).
description
Very few routes established here, due to the severe overhanging lower sections. The one accessible section has seen routes on top of routes established. About 10-12 routes in 800m of cliff, with 5-6 of those all at the Solar Quartet area.
Climbs arranged L to R.
access issues
Access from the sluice gate all the way to the big gully below "Heartbreak Ridge" is across private land, please stay on the QPWS fire track.
approach
Very severe approach:
From the sluice gate, walk up the hiker's track to the tree line, continue for another 200m until you see the first National Parks sign on the track:
Tiger Face - 20200801_160941-R.jpg
behind you, about 20-30m on the right, you will see a faint track heading off right into the scrub:
Nympho Buttress - N.E. Crags access track
Follow this down to & across the gully, then up the steep slope to the cliffs left of The Hourglass Cliffs and climb these (grade 4-5)
Tiger Face - Access cliffs.jpg
Tiger Face - Tiger Face access track
Continue up the nasty scree slope above till you arrive at the cliffs.
Access time roughly 1.5-2hrs.
Up the slope from the sluice gate to where the QPWS fire access track crosses the paddock and turn Right:
North West Columns - Track turn-off
follow this bulldozed track/road down around left below a knoll, then right along to a grassy paddock till you come to a steep fire track & turn Left up this. When you come to the main fire track above, turn Right and follow this along until it ends at the deep gully & clamber up "Heartbreak Ridge" on the other side (100-110m vertical gain):
Paparazzi Cliff - Heartbreak Ridge
up to The Insignificant Cliff:
The Insignificant Cliff - Insignificant - stitched.JPG
turn right & continue, following the cliff line to Paparazzi Cliff:
Tiger Face - 20200119_174913.jpg
turn Left up here for about 10-15m, then turn Right & walk through some bush-boys & scrub to cross a narrow ledge on a small cliff face. Continue up the scree slope, then rockface till you arrive at a corner (4-5m high - grade 2-3 scramble) below The Graveyard Ridge, scramble up this & make your way up through the nasty chest high vegetation to your desired spot.
Access time 2-2.25hrs
ethic
Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.
history
Named by Rick White; a "Tiger" in 1968 climbing terminology was a very strong leading edge climber. Back then, the toughest grade in Australia was 18!
The very first route to breach The Tiger Face was Rick & Chris' "Tiger Face Escape Route" in 1968.
Later developed by Trevor Gynther & Tony Kelly who established 5 routes here in the early to mid 70s. Trevor & Tony became totally hooked on the Tiger Face & turned it into a project, hauling 20l containers of water up & then filling them bit by bit. One day they came back to find there'd been a bush fire & the water containers were melted.
Trevor took a serious, 15m whipper off a project (on the blank face right of POV), & busted his ankle & had to roll downhill, then crawl back to the car - a 6hr trek.
Chris Frost established several routes here with various partners in the 80s: Chris & Kim Carrigan established a very bold route here in the 90s. In an interview with me, Kim said that the Carrigan-Frost (24) route was one of the most serious routes in Qld.
Evan Bieske & Peter Lehman established a route here in the late 80s: Kelvinator Country - named after the refrigerator sized block that came off during the first ascent.
Darrin Carter established a route here in the 90s, as did Saul Squires with .
Henk Morgans & party established the very hard "Solar Quartet" in 2004.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Kelly-Gynther Route
Start: At a block (shown on topo), below a crackline on a clean face, far LHS of Tiger Face, just Right of The N.E. Buttress. Up the crack-line, to the overhang, & up through this. FA: Tony Kelly & Trevor Gynther, 1972 | 18 | 70m, 2 | |||||
2 |
Bright-Kembery-Squires Route
Start: about 50-70m Right of the N. E. Buttress, 40-50m Left of TRHFD. Height is a best estimate only. Route details & pitches unknown. FA: Saul Squires, Miles Bright & Neil Kembery | 23 | 120m, 2 | |||||
3 |
The Red Haired Farmer's Daughter
Start: About 100m right of the N.E. Buttress (see topo of start) in the shallow corner. The initial 1st belay block is now gone.
Named after they spotted a girl on horseback that day. (Length of route is an approximation only) Trevor's original notes: "trees" may no longer exist. FA: Trevor Gynther & Tony Kelly, 1975 | 18 M4 | 120m, 4 | |||||
4 |
Sharrock Route #1
Start: About 40-50m downhill from TRHFD. Unknown details of route. Height & grade are guesstimates. FA: Glen Sharrock, 1995 | 23 | 120m, 1 | |||||
5 |
Sharrock Route #2
Up the sloping corner. Height & grade are unknown. FA: Glen Sharrock | 120m, 2 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
The Carrigan-Frost Route
Start: at the first easy access section of cliff, behind a big gum tree (see photo topo).
(Height is approx.) Kim: pitches 1&3; Chris: pitch 2 FA: Kim Carrigan & Chric Frost, 1996 | 23 | 120m, 3 | |||||
7 |
Knocking On Evan's Door
Start: Right of TC-FR. Shares pitch 1 with Zoomers On Speed.
(Route length is approximate) FA: Chris Frost & Jon Pearson, 1989 | 22 | 120m, 4 | |||||
8 |
Zoomers On Speed
Start: Right of SQ & TC-FR.
(Route length is approximate) FA: evan bieske, Bill Lukin & Chris Frost, 1987 | 22 | 120m, 4 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Solar Quartet
Start: About the same as for TCFR. Bolts + trad.
FA: henk morgans, peter jones, Nick Bilton & James Fisher, 2005 | 23 AID:A1 | 130m, 4, 25 | |||||
10 |
Plate Of Vegetables
(Route lengths are approximate, but can be done in 3 pitches on today's 60m ropes.) Named at the restaurant in Beaudesert, after the FA. Tony took a big fall on pitch 2, running it out with no modern gear back then & ended up straddling a Bushboy stump. FA: Tony Kelly & Trevor Gynther, 1972 | 19 | 120m, 4 | |||||
11 |
The Vapors
Start: First pitch is possibly Plate Of Vegetables, heading out Right.
(Route length is approximate. Data from Screamer mag, Spring 1989 & Chris Frost.) FA: Chris Frost & Bill Lukin, 1986 | 18 | 130m, 5 | |||||
12 |
Kelvinator Country
FA: evan bieske & Peter Lehman, 1987 | 19 | 120m, 3 | |||||
13 |
Fortune Cookie
Start: about 70m Left of The Graveyard Ridge corner, just left of a 2m corner.
FA: Robert Staszewski & Trevor Gynther, 1978 | 17 | 140m, 4 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
Stacked Bacon
Start: Roughly 15-20m left of where The Graveyard Ridge meets The Tiger Face. A prominent column + crack/corner (see topo).
(Highest part of the cliff, route length is approximate.) Note: these are Trevor's original 1975 notes, so "trees" may no longer exist. FA: Trevor Gynther & Alan Stephens, 1975 | 18 | 140m, 2 | |||||
15 |
A Slice Of Cold Mutton
Start: Unknown. "Easy free crack start. Mixed free + aid."
(Trevor's notes) FA: Trevor Gynther & Tony Kelly, 1975 | 15 M3 | 130m, 4 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
15 M3 | A Slice Of Cold Mutton | 130m, 4 | |||
17 | Fortune Cookie | 140m, 4 | |||
18 | Kelly-Gynther Route | 70m, 2 | |||
Stacked Bacon | 140m, 2 | ||||
The Vapors | 130m, 5 | ||||
18 M4 | The Red Haired Farmer's Daughter | 120m, 4 | |||
19 | Kelvinator Country | 120m, 3 | |||
Plate Of Vegetables | 120m, 4 | ||||
22 | Knocking On Evan's Door | 120m, 4 | |||
Zoomers On Speed | 120m, 4 | ||||
23 | Bright-Kembery-Squires Route | 120m, 2 | |||
Sharrock Route #1 | 120m, 1 | ||||
The Carrigan-Frost Route | 120m, 3 | ||||
23 A1 | ★★★ | Solar Quartet | 130m, 4, 25 | ||
? | Sharrock Route #2 | 120m, 2 |