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Routes as sport in Octopuses Garden

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Showing all 20 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
17 Just Add Water

At the far left hand side the wall as you first arrive at the crag, 10 m left of Yellow Submarine. Can be used to access the steep wall of The Eastern Seaboard, but not access gully routes.

Set: Glenn, 1 Sep 2017

FFA: Glenn & ross ferguson, 1 Sep 2017

Sport 30m, 2
20 R Captain Jack Sparrow

Second climb from the left. Plenty of questionable rock and a big run out between the 3rd and the 4th bolt.

Sport 15m
22 Yellow Submarine

Start: 2m left of Lava Tube under cave. Slab for first 2 bolts into cave and 3rd FH. Get all tangled up getting to the 4th FH and turn the lip. Continues straight up to chains. 7 FHs

Sport 15m, 7
18 Lava Tube

Great featured climbing up the scoop, then leftwards to the last bolt and anchors. Mind the tree.

Set: Glenn, 1 Sep 2017

FFA: Glenn, 1 Sep 2017

Sport 16m, 8
21 Twisted Tenticles

Up left side of cave to shared anchors.

Sport 15m
22 Siphonophore Tour

Scramble over loose cave floor to the middle left side of the cave. Straight up the vertical mid cave and into the ledge. From the ledge it's straight through the roof to the lip of the cave and out on to the head wall. Extra bolt on ledge if you want but adds drag, runners advised

FA: Neil Jenman, 16 Dec 2017

Sport 16m, 7
23 Captain Barnacles

The centre line straight through the heart of the cave. Head up the vertical face at the middle back of cave and ascend to the back ledge of the cave. From the ledge take a leap of faith out on to the knobby protrusions then summon your polar bear strength to climb straight across the roof and over the lip to the head wall.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 22 May 2018

FA: Neil Jenman, 22 May 2018

Sport 15m, 7
21 Octopuses Garden

Starts up the right side of the cave then left through the roof on wild "Ninderry-solid" features. Finishes up the middle of the headwall. Awesome steep climbing at a moderate grade.

Sport 15m, 6
23 Rum, Sodomy and The Lash

Easy scramble up into scoop on R side of cave. Steep L trending line up scoops and crack on headwall. Jamming crux will make you think you’re at Frog! Possibly 22? Repeaters can decide.

FFA: Dick Harding, Jun 2023

Sport 15m, 5
24 Hello Sailor

First 2 bolts of Water Line then bust out left and up punching thru a few cruxes. Most excellent.

FFA: ross ferguson, 14 Sep 2017

Sport 10m, 5
22 Waterline

Fun, pumpy, punchy climbing on great rock up the short steep wall.

Sport 10m, 4
25 Said the Sailor to the Girl

Last line before the wall rounds the bend. Quality micro-route. Easy start, hard boulder problem direct through the shield, pumpy little finish.

Set: Dick Harding & kenny walker

FFA: Dick Harding & kenny walker

Sport 8m, 4
25 Raptures of the Deep

Start off the terrace above the previous routes. Short and intense. Heel, toe, gut busting core. Turn the lip to the anchors (double bolts) however back cleaning required.

Set: Dick Harding

FFA: Dick Harding & kenny walker, 14 Aug 2017

Sport 7m, 4
16 Bruce

The arete as the track rounds the bend. Gets a bit dirty up high

FFA: Glenn

FA: glen ferguson

Sport 12m, 6
19 Nemo

Face right of arete. Shares last bolt and anchors with Bruce. Can also share 1st bolt with Bruce, but isn’t required. 5FHs, 6FHs if using Bruce’s first.

FFA: Glenn

FA: glen ferguson

Sport 12m, 5
20 I am the Walrus

Starts a few meters to the right of Bruce and Nemo. Stick clip the first bolt. A climb needing some thought.

Set: Glenn, Sarah Shoelace & Rohan McEvoy, 24 Nov 2018

FFA: Rohan McEvoy, Sarah Shoelace & Glenn, 24 Nov 2018

Sport 12m, 6
The Unflashable

Located hidden up the gully just beyond the trad wall. This route and MbP both climb the slabby pillar and then the living-room sized boulder wedged between the walls. TU is the left route directly up the guts. A closed project for now.

SportProject 10m, 5
27 Munchausen by proxy

Climb pillar with funky moves to gain boulder then traverse R. Bouldery, punchy moves up arete to top out. Single bolt lower-off however easier to back jump and clean.

Set: Dick Harding

FFA: Dick Harding & kenny

Sport 10m, 6
20 Bitter Sweet Break-off

10min walk east of Sayonara Bitches along the cliff base, facing east. Stick clip first bolt. Start in centre left of cave and follow the obvious rib through the overhang onto the slightly hung headwall.

FFA: Michael Jansen, 2013

FFA: Brenton Owens, 2013

Sport 11m, 4
22 A Broken Hold Never Heals

Start 2m right of BSB, Superman start into the roof following obvious line to headwall. Joining BSB at its 4th bolt.

FFA: Michael Jansen, 2013

Sport 10m, 3

Showing all 20 routes.

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