Routes as sport in Mt Ninderry

The route to the left of Boaty McBoatface, shared anchor with Boaty. Hangers are easily seen near the top but extend to approx 15 below the Boaty DBB station where another DBB exists in good condition to belay from. Can also be used as a descent route (another 20m or so) to the ledge just above the start of pitch two for Just Add Water from Octopuses Garden. If rapping down this way be aware the pull down runs the risk of snagging your rope in trees halfway down and another rap from a tree or a longish walk around is still needed to get back to Octopuses Garden if your gear is there.

Proud arete with some refreshing exposure. From rings at the southern edge of the access gully, head up the slab to a ledge where the arete starts. Climb the overhanging (left) side of the arete on great holds until you run out of arete and mantle to top out finish.

Start in the middle of the south wall of the gully. Bouldery start into slabby fun before heading up the right side of the arete. Tops out to the same rings as Boaty McBoatface.

Start up the black streak to the right of I'm an anemone, at the bottom of the corner rap from the summit. Slabby climbing to it's own set of chains.

Top route in the access gully.

Lower steep route in the access gully. Belay bolt on ledge.

The flake feature on the the left hand end of the steep wall. Fun and sustained climbing.

Will be hard! Alex has done all the moves so it goes. Give it a crack!

Takes the hard R to L undercling to headwall. Looks classic and hard!

Diagonal crack to arete. Hard start requiring an attentive belay past the first 3 bolts, leading to the steep arete.

R end of main wall. Semi-hanging belay on ledge. Punchy boulder problem start. Tricky all the way to the chains.

Short prominent arete R end of the wall. Clip the low first bolt then start R in the corner. Explosive movements with long tosses and stiff climbing.

Below Seaman Staines in little cave, thread the feature then clip one fh before squirming out to the anchors. Can rap in or easy scramble down/out to left.

A mini adventure route up the corner on the far right of the terrace. Easiest to access by fixing a line to the right end of the fixed rope and lowering to an anchor on the edge. Climbing gingerly right below the loose stuff and up the wall, following the corner and then the arete.

At the far left hand side the wall as you first arrive at the crag, 10 m left of Yellow Submarine. Can be used to access the steep wall of The Eastern Seaboard, but not access gully routes.

Second climb from the left. Plenty of questionable rock and a big run out between the 3rd and the 4th bolt.

Start: 2m left of Lava Tube under cave. Slab for first 2 bolts into cave and 3rd FH. Get all tangled up getting to the 4th FH and turn the lip. Continues straight up to chains. 7 FHs

Great featured climbing up the scoop, then leftwards to the last bolt and anchors. Mind the tree.

Up left side of cave to shared anchors.

Scramble over loose cave floor to the middle left side of the cave. Straight up the vertical mid cave and into the ledge. From the ledge it's straight through the roof to the lip of the cave and out on to the head wall. Extra bolt on ledge if you want but adds drag, runners advised

The centre line straight through the heart of the cave. Head up the vertical face at the middle back of cave and ascend to the back ledge of the cave. From the ledge take a leap of faith out on to the knobby protrusions then summon your polar bear strength to climb straight across the roof and over the lip to the head wall.

Starts up the right side of the cave then left through the roof on wild "Ninderry-solid" features. Finishes up the middle of the headwall. Awesome steep climbing at a moderate grade.

Easy scramble up into scoop on R side of cave. Steep L trending line up scoops and crack on headwall. Jamming crux will make you think you’re at Frog! Possibly 22? Repeaters can decide.

First 2 bolts of Water Line then bust out left and up punching thru a few cruxes. Most excellent.

Fun, pumpy, punchy climbing on great rock up the short steep wall.

Last line before the wall rounds the bend. Quality micro-route. Easy start, hard boulder problem direct through the shield, pumpy little finish.

Start off the terrace above the previous routes. Short and intense. Heel, toe, gut busting core. Turn the lip to the anchors (double bolts) however back cleaning required.

The arete as the track rounds the bend. Gets a bit dirty up high

Face right of arete. Shares last bolt and anchors with Bruce. Can also share 1st bolt with Bruce, but isn’t required. 5FHs, 6FHs if using Bruce’s first.

Starts a few meters to the right of Bruce and Nemo. Stick clip the first bolt. A climb needing some thought.

Located hidden up the gully just beyond the trad wall. This route and MbP both climb the slabby pillar and then the living-room sized boulder wedged between the walls. TU is the left route directly up the guts. A closed project for now.

Climb pillar with funky moves to gain boulder then traverse R. Bouldery, punchy moves up arete to top out. Single bolt lower-off however easier to back jump and clean.

10min walk east of Sayonara Bitches along the cliff base, facing east. Stick clip first bolt. Start in centre left of cave and follow the obvious rib through the overhang onto the slightly hung headwall.

Start 2m right of BSB, Superman start into the roof following obvious line to headwall. Joining BSB at its 4th bolt.

Face and arete L of ER crack. Accessed from P1 of FitS. 5BR to anchors. Diagonalling left, this diminutive route packs a whallup. Committing blind moves down low, tricky all the way to the anchors. Mind the tree.

10BR to anchors (+1 optional belay bolt on ledge). Moderate ledge-y stuff on P1 then sweeeet clean face above. Belay on ledge a good idea (grade 18, 5BR to there) but reasonable as a single pitch with a few long runners in the first half and an attentive belay. From the ledge, get your crimp action on. A thin bouldery section is followed by excellent edging up an immaculate steep wall to anchors.

Face and rooflet between unclimbed wide crack and SA. Climb pitch1 of FitS then R to belay. Thin edges, a bouldery section, then quest to glory with exciting, but moderate, climbing through the exposed overhang.

Other side of arete from ETN. Use long runner on first bolt of ETN then L around arête to high FH on face. Jugs and crimps to the break. A move L on edges sets you up to attack the face. Sustained crimping over the bulge leads back to the arête and a welcome FH. Up arete to break, final bolt (long runner) and anchors of ETN.

Arete RHS. High first bolt near arete. Somewhat engaging climbing requiring a steady hand. Should one be seized with fear, or suffer a sudden palsy up high, then disaster is imminent.

Bouldery start (don't use tree, yes sensei!) a few metres to the right of ETN. Move left at second bolt onto face with some thin climbing before encountering a steep top with chain just below lip.

Starts two metres left of TPPP in corner crack. Climbs easily up crack till prow is reached at second bolt (optional small cam beneath second bolt). Tough move through prow and sustained climbing follows, which trends slightly left the whole way. Lower off just before ledge.

A hard crux through the roof, especially for the vertically challenged, followed by fun cranking over a bucket or two, to an exciting topout.

A hidden gem! Up Potbelly then veer R at the last bolt (long draw) and downclimb behind the pillar into the cave. Belay second with care off the first bolt of Airbender. The route climbs the back wall then steep L trending rib. At the top resist the temptation to step back and climb past the last bolt and onto the ledge. Exit left to tree belay then rap off anchors above ETN (rusty) or around the corner above Katana. Quite an adventure!

Starts uphill from ETN and climbs the wild scooped out overhang up high. Bit of a ramble, however, the top 6 metres is the steepest 20 you'll ever climb!

The furthest R route on this sector, behind the rock arch. Climb wall to ledge in cave. Monkey up R side of scoop, power through sustained cruxy bulge, and up moderate headwall to the world’s end. Use long runners in cave. Harder than the original 24 since hold broke.

Middle line out of cave. If lead in one pitch, anchor in and pull the rope through the first 4 draws before proceeding to reduce drag.

Not bad in it's own right. May have suffered a broken hold...

7 bolts from the cave to anchors. Climb as for FC to the cave. This is the L line directly above the anchors. Severe Body-English is necessary to solve the boulder problem out the cave. The climbing eases significantly as the angle relents, though still keeps you punching through the overlap. To minimise drag, safety into the first anchors and pull the rope through before continuing.

9 BR to anchors. Deceptively steep face and blunt arête. Pumpy. Not for the feint of heart with a little funky rock and an engaging crux. Stick to the line and no traversing way off R into the cave.

Shares the start with it's twin, then L onto the ledge. Direct up following the vertical seam through the crimpy face. Maybe a tad contrived but does not climb the easy stuff out L. Trend R above hard section to join the top of DDR.

Straight up the centre of the chimney working your way in and out of a series of scoops. 9 hangers to anchors. Chossy start but gets better. Belayer wear a helmet!

Traverse R along fixed rope. Grey face/arete. Stick clip first bolt and start up crack. Punchy and sustained little route with long moves between good holds.

Good compression boulder problem then glory to the chains!

Start carefully up arete to big hueco and first bolt. A hard mid section leads to sustained and committing climbing all the way to the chains. Don't mistake the last bolt with the mallion on it for the finish - double bolt anchors at the top.

Named after an angry former inhabitant! Start in the back of the black cave. Burly climbing through cool hanging features. The sustained headwall still packs a bite!

Direct start of funnel web, stick clip second bolt and start up crack in middle of wall. Continue up staying on left hand side of bolts. Great climbing.

Begin in L side of cave, around the arete and up face to anchors of NT. Uber sustained from the get go until the break.

Link up. First two bolts of Kill Bill to its third FH (but don't clip it) before traversing R into Funnel Web at its third FH and finishing up this.

On the little wall down gully below FW. Though short, this route has sustained technical climbing with a diabolical crux. Gets lichen.

L of STL. Tough crux, but fall-offable all the way!

L of CKKC. Good little route with a few difficult sections and an excellent warmup for the harder stuff around here.

The direct on Kill Bill. Start R of NT at the crack. 3 bolts to join KB at the end of the traverse. The climb goes just R of bolt 3 (the patina prevented bolts from being placed further R). Sustained pinches, underclings, sidepulls. Tough 2nd clip, but for full value avoid stickclipping it.

Clip first bolt from the narrow ledge and pull onto the hard start. Pumpy pocketed face. Avoid traversing R for a giant rest on the jug of KB and add a grade and a star. A classic route but best avoided between Aug-Dec as the local falcon has a habit of greeting would-be ascentionists at very high speeds.

Dappled face veering R to a tricky clip at the 5th bolt, then directly up into the cave. Don't finish here! Use a very long draw then up and R onto the giant fang with a bolt on the tip, questing heroically to the anchors on the headwall.

SK into cave, then L line of bolts out cave to very top of wall. Do not confuse to 2 bolts with fixed gear on them (wtf?) at the top of the cave for the anchors, it keeps going. Exposed exciting finish!

Face and blunt arete just L of crack. Joins COYS in cave.

A squeeze, but so what. Shares first bolt with Five Point. Goes a little L after bolt 3 into the underclings. Shares a few holds with COYS before busting R and up. Same top as the others. Can certainly be done punching R lower on some cool intense side pulls at 23 but is unfortunately contrived.

Stickclip recommended. Use long draw in cave. Beware loose rock in top section but it doesn't detract from the experience.

Starts just right of the large grass tree. Stickclip first bolt and step off block to venture up overhanging rib on good holds with some punchy moves on small headwall above. Carefully to anchor. Shares last bolt with Anagrams or just run it out. *Please respect resident Falcon

Starts left of large grass tree under cave. Stickclip first bolt and either climb direct or come in from the left over first bolt. Interesting moves through cave to pull onto wall above. Carefully through to upper cave which holds one of Ninderry's finest views. Shared anchor with Distraction Utopia. *Please respect the resident Falcon.

On the main wall, but confusingly left of the two subsequent described routes. Scramble/bridge up into the very top section of cave. This route climbs the steep L side of cave and wall above. Somewhat sharp rock at the start leads to a surprisingly fine and exposed headwall with anchors.

Dappled face of high pinnacle. Climbs the face L of the bolts not the easy flake way off to the R. This route is thin, technical and tricky. Shares anchors with IaTN so requires long 1.5m slings to lower off.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- November)

Steep arete on pinnacle. What it lacks in length it makes up for with exposure and pumpiness! Use 1+mtr slings on anchors if lowering or alternatively abseil off to clean.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- December)

One of the better warm ups on the cliff. An isolated route but well worth doing on great rock. 6 UB’s lead up the steep and juggy wall to anchors over the lip.

Small wall to a burly little roof and mantle. Quite fun as a warm up, and an enjoyable miniature piece of climbing. 4 FHs to chains

Runout after second bolt, but still quite fun. Shares anchors and last bolt with Have another Home Brew

Left most end of the cave. Climbs well but there may still be some rubbish rock. Needs a good day of cleaning and sorting out of the clusterfuck of bolts.

Up the steepest part of the left side of the cave. Start on the chalked holds at the right end of the steep scoop. This route was born as a 26, then grew to 27, now probably 28 or harder after multiple breaks up high. You bolt choss that’s what you get. Could probably use a little glue and love if anyone is motivated.

Link up. Begin up Absinthe to the 4th bolt, then follow the steep underbelly right across SS and GASS to finish up Screaming Rage. If instead, at the end, you keep going R and finish up the corner feature (Quiet Rage), it's Getting Buck Right, at low-end 26.

Climb Absinthe to halfway then diagonal naturally right on blobs to join Struggle Snuggle. More pumpy and interesting than the direct and pushes the gnarly SS into the next grade.

Starts just right of Absinthe under the steep, chossy looking, open book feature. Fun steep jugging to about halfway, then a very hard section of bouldering leads to a superb pumper finish. Great climbing despite appearances.

Up QR for three bolts, then L through the steep bulge. After the boulder problem continue L a tad to join the top of SS. Either top out SS (rope twisting anchors) or use the right bolt and hand traverse right to SR anchors.

Climb QR then instead of heading right and up the corner, go straight up through the roof and overlap. Pumpy moves lead to a glorious throw to the top. A harder, better and more sustained finish to QR.

Starts under the overhanging bob in the middle of the cave. Juggy for the first 4 bolts. High clip in the roof and a great sequence of bouldering leading to the big flake. Bust your way right on jugs to a pumpy finish in the black crack/corner. High anchor over the top.

R hand route in cave (L of manky crack). Very poor rock

R of the steep manky crack. A couple of cruxes. The original line moves right and up thru a technical fingery crux and wild dyno. Some climbers prefer to climb the juggy crack instead.

“Despite appearances all the holds are bomber... I challenge you to pull anything off!” - J. Make him a wager. Enjoyable climbing on big, nicely moulded holds.

Left hand finish to Birds of Prey. Spicy boulder problem in the sky, keep the bolts at your chest then clip anchors at your waist for full value. Pack your pads.

A very proud line with classy climbing that follows TSSS to the anchors, veers R, then straight up aiming for the beautiful orange headwall and arete at the very top of the cliffs. Veer R up the final arete, ignore the distracting bolts just to the left. A few things to note: 1. To climb with minimal drag backclean the first bolt, use extenders for last BR and anchors on TSSS (or clip the last bolt on Tim Burton Tunnel and backclean the TSSS anchor). 2. It’s not possible to lower to ground from final anchors using a 60m rope so clean this climb in two pitches or use a 70m rope. Climb named with respect for the peregrine falcons that nest close by, so as much as this is a great climb, it should only be climbed outside of the falcons nesting season.

Steep continuous jugging! Stickclip high first bolt in roof. Use long draws. Up past a couple of bolts then exposed traverse right under roof before heading up to the anchors on slab.

The continuation of Pneumothorax past 3 more bolts through orange bulge to anchors. You can also access this by climbing TT to its third last bolt and heading right into this climb at the ledge (rope probably runs better this way).

Climb Pneumothorax past its first two bolts, extending both. Then clip the RB of Tick Typhus, following its three dimensional tunnel until the angle eases. From here, step right to clip the anchors of Pneumothorax. Not an independent route, but quite enjoyable in its own right!

Starts up P for two bolts (use long slings), and climb straight up to U bolt (long sling again). Continue up 3D corner to small ledge above on the right. Make a move back left and tackle the steep black corner (avoid moving way out right at last bolt into no mans land) to chains over the lip.

Links the beginning of Vertigo into last bolt of Pneumothorax. Sling a protrusion on the traverse. Not an integral route in it's own right but a linkup of the easiest sections of both routes.

Starts 3m R of Pneumothorax in hollowed out cave. Begin the wild start by stick clipping the low bolt and cranking over the crazy roof! A vision quest up Ninderry funk to a headwall crux. Take a sling for a mid way thread thru a hole.

Extend almost every draw to make the rope run well on this wild adventurous traverse. Start up the first four U bolts of What the left hand don't know but instead of heading straight up wind your way up the line of fixed hangers out left through steepness and exposure around lip of giant roof finishing at Vertigo's anchor. Attentive rope management required. Best to have second to top rope to clean.

3m L of NA. Up runout, easy jugs for three ringbolts (long slings). Pull L into steep runnel and thug up to the base of 50 degree overhung headwall (grade 18 to here). The permadraw hanging over the lip points the way. A hard and direct boulder problem to the blind (and tiny) hold over the lip. Difficult moves are followed by a mantle onto the lip hold. A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that there’s tempting easy ground off L (not in). Hard to grade. 18 V7? Save your rope and clean from the permadraw and leaver-biner. Rebolted December 2013.