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Routes in Mt Ninderry for selected grade

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Showing all 16 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Eastern Seaboard
26 No Holds Barred

The flake feature on the the left hand end of the steep wall. Fun and sustained climbing.

FFA: Bernie Walsh, 5 Jun 2016

Sport 15m, 6
26 What the Sea Wants, the Sea Shall Have

Diagonal crack to arete. Hard start requiring an attentive belay past the first 3 bolts, leading to the steep arete.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jun 2016

Sport 12m, 6
26 Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner

R end of main wall. Semi-hanging belay on ledge. Punchy boulder problem start. Tricky all the way to the chains.

Set: Kenny Walker

FFA: Kenny Walker, Nov 2016

Sport 12m, 7
Octopuses Garden
26 Mantel proj

Load up the crack, punch out roof and mantle into blankness joining into Pitcairn. Bold.

TradProject 15m
27 Munchausen by proxy

Climb pillar with funky moves to gain boulder then traverse R. Bouldery, punchy moves up arete to top out. Single bolt lower-off however easier to back jump and clean.

Set: Dick Harding

FFA: Dick Harding & kenny

Sport 10m, 6
Enter the Ninja Sector
26 The Iron Fist

Face and rooflet between unclimbed wide crack and SA. Climb pitch1 of FitS then R to belay. Thin edges, a bouldery section, then quest to glory with exciting, but moderate, climbing through the exposed overhang.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2013

Sport 13m, 5
Ocean Vista Area
26 Mad Cows On Acid

The furthest R route on this sector, behind the rock arch. Climb wall to ledge in cave. Monkey up R side of scoop, power through sustained cruxy bulge, and up moderate headwall to the world’s end. Use long runners in cave. Harder than the original 24 since hold broke.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

Sport 25m, 11
27 Kill Bill

Begin in L side of cave, around the arete and up face to anchors of NT. Uber sustained from the get go until the break.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2012

Sport 15m, 8
26 Sweep The Leg

On the little wall down gully below FW. Though short, this route has sustained technical climbing with a diabolical crux. Gets lichen.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Sport 10m, 6
Caves Area
27 Absinthe

Up the steepest part of the left side of the cave. Start on the chalked holds at the right end of the steep scoop. This route was born as a 26, then grew to 27, now probably 28 or harder after multiple breaks up high. You bolt choss that’s what you get. Could probably use a little glue and love if anyone is motivated.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Sport 14m, 7
27 Getting Buck

Link up. Begin up Absinthe to the 4th bolt, then follow the steep underbelly right across SS and GASS to finish up Screaming Rage. If instead, at the end, you keep going R and finish up the corner feature (Quiet Rage), it's Getting Buck Right, at low-end 26.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

Sport 15m, 9
27 Struggles with Absinthe

Climb Absinthe to halfway then diagonal naturally right on blobs to join Struggle Snuggle. More pumpy and interesting than the direct and pushes the gnarly SS into the next grade.

FA: Dick Harding, Aug 2020

Sport 15m, 7
26 Struggle Snuggle

Starts just right of Absinthe under the steep, chossy looking, open book feature. Fun steep jugging to about halfway, then a very hard section of bouldering leads to a superb pumper finish. Great climbing despite appearances.

FFA: Nate Foster, 2011

Sport 13m, 6
26 Tick Typhus

Starts up P for two bolts (use long slings), and climb straight up to U bolt (long sling again). Continue up 3D corner to small ledge above on the right. Make a move back left and tackle the steep black corner (avoid moving way out right at last bolt into no mans land) to chains over the lip.

FA: Matt Schimke, 5 Aug 2014

Sport 25m, 8
27 What The Left Hand Don't Know

3m L of NA. Up runout, easy jugs for three ringbolts (long slings). Pull L into steep runnel and thug up to the base of 50 degree overhung headwall (grade 18 to here). The permadraw hanging over the lip points the way. A hard and direct boulder problem to the blind (and tiny) hold over the lip. Difficult moves are followed by a mantle onto the lip hold. A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that there’s tempting easy ground off L (not in). Hard to grade. 18 V7? Save your rope and clean from the permadraw and leaver-biner. Rebolted December 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

Sport 25m, 11
26 Saturday Night Nitro

First 5 bolts of SNP, then logically R into the business section of Nitro. Hard crimpy V5 boulder problem into grade 24 climbing.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Sport 15m, 6

Showing all 16 routes.

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