Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 12th Jun 2017 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Third Breakaway | ||||||
23 | FA ★★★ Pub Grubs And Bloody Greenies - with Ben Vincent | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seconded Ben with a few rests. The first strenuous fingery layback moves from the ground - and getting established immediately afterwards seemed harder than 22. Based on the principle that a climb shouldn't be given a grade easier than its hardest move, I'd take that into account.
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23 | FA ★★ Chewin Fat With The Paleo Brat - with carol lee | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seconded Carol on this with a few rests, I accept that I'm a bit long in the tooth for this sort of thing but but it seemed much harder than 21 to me. Possibly no individual moves harder than 22 but string them together (with nothing between which qualifies as a real rest) and take into account the technical nature of the moves... and you've got yourself a 23. OK that's my two bob's worth... Comments anyone?
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Tue 15th Dec 2015 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
16 | FA Geronim- Alternate Direct Finish - with J. Lattanzio | 30m | Average | |||
Mon 26th Oct 2015 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Second Breakaway | ||||||
16 | FA ★★ Last Straw - with Lamonis Kavalieris | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Straightforward with modern pro. One star.
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Tue 6th Oct 2015 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
16 |
★ Bottled Neat
1
15
lead by
Richard
2
16
lead by
Carol
| 53m | ★ Good | |||
Perhaps the crux at the start of pitch 2 deserves 17 (delicate and airy). The 'spiky vines' mentioned by someone else at the start of the final crack are not spiky and are avoided by stepping onto the easy right wall.
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Oct 2015 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Descent Gully Cliff | ||||||
18 | FA ★ Silk Aromas - with Carol | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Seconded Carol on her first ascent.
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Sat 15th Aug 2015 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Lower Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Risky Shift | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Carol led in style. I've done the climb a few times now and it's definitely better than the 'average' rating that first ascentionist gave it. The slightly 'iffy' first moves can be well protected with a little patience.
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Sun 5th Apr 2015 - Blue Lake | ||||||
Elephant Buttress | ||||||
18 | FA ★★ Exorcist - with Chris Larque | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Chris did a bold lead for the time.
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Thu 25th Sep 2014 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Sixth Breakaway | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Lethal Dose - with John Lattanzio | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Couldn't believe I got up this after 3 decades away and managed to second it clean. More straightforward than Toxic Shock.
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20 | ★★ Toxic Shock - with John Lattanzio | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hadn't done this for 30 years and it showed. Oh well... at least I got up it.
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Fri 25th Jul 2014 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall The Jungle | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ Angels and Us alternate finish - with Ben V | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconded this one. Had to rig up a back rope on the traverse as I couldn't see the footholds in the gathering darkness. Ben could barely hear me and must have wondered what the f___ was happening as I called for 'slack on yellow and tight on white'.
Aided a couple of moves on the fisty crack in the dark before grabbing the fig tree with a degree of relief. Untangled the ropes at the top purely by feel. - Another adventure. Oh Yeah!
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Sat 19th Jul 2014 - Western Gara Gorge | ||||||
Three Sisters East Gully | ||||||
16 | FA ★★ Clarence Frogman Henry - with Cal | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | FA ★ Richard the Obscure - with Cal | 16m | ★ Good | |||
21 | FA ★★ Trying Time - with Al | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | FA ★★★ House of Cards - with Al | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
20 | ★★ The Rough Diamond - with Al | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | FA ★★ Lady Finger's Boudoir Biscuits - with Brian | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | FA ★ Just an Old-Fashioned Girl - with Brian | 25m | ★ Good | |||
18 | FA ★ High Mass - with Brian | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 12th Jul 2014 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
The Glen | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Loose Composure | 50m | ||||
A Hairy, Scary adventure. Onya Ben.
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Fri 27th Jun 2014 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
The Glen | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Brawn & Bovril - with Ben | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice to be back new routing. This was a good one to test how the fitness, strength and technique are going. Confidence could be better!
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Sun 25th May 2014 - Western Gara Gorge | ||||||
Dome Wall Middle Tier | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Autumnal Beauty - with Carol | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great to get back to this old favourite. I had forgotten just how good it is. Great variety for a climb of this length.
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Sat 15th Mar 2014 - Cathedral Rock National Park | ||||||
Cathedral Rock The isolated pillar | ||||||
21 | FA ★ Street Café - with as second | 30m | ||||
Seconded Al
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Tue 3rd Dec 2013 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
19 | ★ Smike | 83m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got a shock when Ben turned nasty and threw a shoebox-sized block at me while doing a one-handed layback at the start of pitch 2.
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Mon 2nd Dec 2013 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
18 | ★ Horrendous Episode | 93m | ★ Good | |||
Must do a few more chin-ups!
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Fri 13th Sep 2013 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Third Breakaway | ||||||
18 | FA ★ Failsafe | 20m | ||||
Fri 1st Mar 2013 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor Cream Buttress | ||||||
18 | FA ★★★ Cream - with Jim G | 43m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 8th Feb 2013 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Second Breakaway | ||||||
18 | FA ★★ Fingers | 8m | ||||
Gradually tapers down until a lunge for the top.
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Fri 8th Feb 2013 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
15 | FA ★ The Removalist - with seconded | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice little number.
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19 | FA ★★ Narcissus | 15m | ||||
2004 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
16 | Patient Scruff | 30m | Average | |||
2000 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
23 | FA ★★★ CS - with Ben | 93m | ★★★ Classic | |||
1997 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ The Far Side - with John | 93m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good alternate finish to Red Disc.
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1996 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall Orchidview Terrace | ||||||
22 | FA ★★★ A Stranger to Friction - with one rest | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
1996 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall Broken Terrace | ||||||
21 | FA ★★★ Tiny Tips - with Johno | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
1996 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall Orchidview Terrace | ||||||
19 | FA ★★★ Orchadia - with Johno | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1995 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Fifth Breakaway | ||||||
8 | FA Elbow Twister - with Vaughan Curtis, John Oddie | 15m | Average | |||
1995 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Facial Discrimination - with Johno | 230m | ★ Good | |||
We thought we did a first ascent, only to find out years later that it had been done by two of my previous climbing partners while I was living in Melbourne. We probably did a different series of pitches after the crux pitch.
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1995 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall Broken Terrace | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ Sailors of the Sun - with Johno | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
20 | FA ★★ Surprising Rising - with Johno | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 | FA ★ Tigger's Pause | 60m | ||||
1995 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Colony Wall The Jungle | ||||||
16 | FA ★ P's and Q's - with Johno | 75m | ★ Good | |||
20 | FA ★★ Angels and Us - with Johno | 83m | ||||
Fri 12th Jul 1991 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Whipping wall | ||||||
16 | FA Getting Up | Average | ||||
Thu 11th Jul 1991 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Overdrive Wall | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ Adrenaline Overdrive | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 11th Jul 1991 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Silk 'n' Steel Wall | ||||||
21 | FA ★★★ Silk 'N' Steel | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
1991 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Grab the Gristle Area | ||||||
19 | FA ★ Pink Slip - with Ed | 18m | ★ Good | |||
20 | FA ★ Bitter Fingers - with Ed | 10m | ★ Good | |||
1991 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Whipping wall | ||||||
15 | FA Knuckle Sandwich | 10m | Average | |||
1991 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Lower Main Wall | ||||||
18 | FA Shattered - with Jack | 15m | ||||
1991 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Pineapple Rough | ||||||
17 | FA ★ Backwards to the Future - with Jack and Chris | 70m | ★ Good | |||
17 | FA Trad Jaz - with Jack | 40m | Average | |||
1988 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
19 | FA ★ Goose n' Off - with John Lattanzio, Tim Ball | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Worth a star - perhaps two if the vines at the top were trimmed.
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1986 - Western Gara Gorge | ||||||
Wallaby Wall & Slab City | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ Unholy Trinity - with Jack and Brian | 45m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
I led the first pitch and Jack led the crux second pitch
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1986 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
16 | FA First Offence | 25m | Average | |||
1986 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor Nirvana Buttress | ||||||
19 | FA ★ Our Man in Nirvana - with Richard | 55m | ★ Good | |||
1986 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
22 | ★★ Supermouse - with John Lattanzio | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Extremely thin on holds. Main difficulty is hanging around to place small wires.
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1986 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
20 | FA ★★ Terminal Operator - with Richard | 42m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1985 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Bondage Buttress | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ Grab the Snatch - with Paul Colyvan, B Birchall, S Gaye | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Led by Animal
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18 | FA ★ Snatch and Grab - with Richard Curtis | 10m | ★ Good | |||
1984 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
Mix Master boulders | ||||||
21 | FA ★ Bad Times Just Around The Corner - with Al Stephens | 20m | ★ Good | |||
1984 - Western Gara Gorge | ||||||
Dome Wall The King Pin | ||||||
18 | FA ★ View from the Edge | ★ Good | ||||
1984 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Savage Amusement | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Did it when it was 20
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1984 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Lower Main Wall | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ Enfant Terrible - with Kevin Lindorff, Mike Wust | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
1984 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Chocolate Barbarian - with Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
14 | FA Fruit Loops and Frosties - with Simon Gaye | 15m | Average | |||
I think this might have been Simon's first lead on a first ascent.
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18 | FA ★ Little Wonder - with Simon Gaye | 15m | ★ Good | |||
1984 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Lower Yellow Wall | ||||||
19 | FA ★ Rough Justice - with Brian B | 20m | ★ Good | |||
1984 - Cathedral Rock National Park | ||||||
Cathedral Rock The isolated pillar | ||||||
22 | FA ★★ Tontons Macoutes - with Al S | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The Tontons Macoutes were the paramilitary hatchetmen of Haiti's dictator 'Papa Doc' Duvalier.
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1984 - Western Gara Gorge | ||||||
Wallaby Wall & Slab City | ||||||
20 | FA ★ Bananas - with Al | 25m | ★ Good | |||
1984 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Third Breakaway | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ Perfect Match | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1983 - Eastern Gara Gorge | ||||||
Yellow Wall Lower Main Wall | ||||||
23 | FA ★★★ Sundance - with Chris Dale, John Lattanzio | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The move past the bolt defeated me.
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1983 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Third Breakaway | ||||||
22 | FA ★★ It's My Party - with Mark Colyvan, P. Colyvan, P. Bayne, B. Birchall | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Developed falling off into an artform on this one.
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1982 - Kaputar | ||||||
Ningadhun | ||||||
18 | FA ★★ Industrial Unrest - with Kevin | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1982 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
22 | FA ★ The Promised Land - with Kevin | 96m | ★★★ Classic | |||
24 | FA ★★ The Millionaire Touch - with Kevin and Paul | 100m | ||||
Tight rope seconding the crux!
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20 | FA ★ Spook Direct - with Kevin | 77m | ★ Good | |||
18 | FA ★★ The Real McCoy - with Kevin | 85m | ★★★ Classic | |||
20 | FA ★ Acid Test - with Kevin | 65m | ★ Good | |||
21 | FA ★★ Sang Froid - with Kevin | 92m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 1st May 1981 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
21 | FA ★★★ The Recidivist Direct | 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
1981 - Kaputar | ||||||
Ningadhun | ||||||
22 | FA ★★★ Blood Sports - with Brian and Richard | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The first pitch was a bit freaky.
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18 | FA ★★ Classical Gas - with Brian and Richard | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
21 | FA ★★ Overexposed - with Brian and Richard | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
18 | FA Excentric - with Richard Morris | 15m | Average | |||
1981 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
20 | FA ★★ Comic Crack - with Brian | 42m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice climbing up the blut arete.
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1981 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
16 | FA ★ Pooh, Red Disc Connection - with Richard | 110m | ★ Good | |||
22 | FA ★★ Gun Control - with Richard | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
1980 - Kaputar | ||||||
Ningadhun | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ A Jam for All Seasons - with Mark | 63m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1980 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
19 | FA ★★ Don't Eat the Daisies - with Mark | 80m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1979 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
20 | FA ★ Katzenjammer Kraks | 60m | ||||
20 | FA ★★ Freudian Slip - with Brian and Jim N | 52m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1979 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
19 | FA ★ Smike - with Brian | 83m | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 | FA ★★ Bum Leeper - with Jim | 93m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA.
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18 | FA ★★ The Governor - with Jim and Brian | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 | FA ★★ Spook - with Brian | 72m | ||||
18 | FA ★ Shake, Rattle and Roll - with Brian | 53m | ★ Good | |||
21 | FA ★★★ Blood on the Moon - with Jim N | 75m | ★★★ Classic | |||
19 | FA ★ Pure and Simple | 70m | ★ Good | |||
1978 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
20 | FA ★ Geronimo - with FA: R. Curtis, B. Birchall, J. Friend | 80m | ★ Good | |||
Had a lot of difficulty following Joe on the top pitch.
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