Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Stonehaven | ||||||
20 | ★★ Modern Family | 10m, 5 | ||||
Glad to see this finally open, really nice line. The holds that looked wet were actually fine!
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20 | ★ Tataclop | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did the Honnold for the gram.
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19 | ★★ Little Flakey | 12m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lap, nice but a bit pumpy
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24 | ★★ Les Dents de la Mère | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3x falls on the crux for various reasons, forever refining the microbeta, feeling confident
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15 | ★ Floating World | 20m, 10 | ||||
Warm up
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Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Mount Keira | ||||||
North Face | ||||||
17 | Streno Not Teno | 18m, 4 | ||||
TRS scout also. One rusty carrot didn't break when I kicked it so probably sweet? Hangers look bomber. Traverse looks tenuous. The crack otherwise looks like the longest/strictest hand size crack in the Illawarra? Scant face holds outside of it. Bring crack gloves to increase hand size.
Again top out looks semi-miserable And the cave to the left appears to be a Peregrine Falcon nest (didn't like my presence and plenty of bird poo in there). |
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16 | ★★ Teno Not Streno | 15m | ||||
Scouted on top rope solo, looks decent, top out looks not fun - might hang a rope to be an anchor or learn to bolt some anchors? Via ferrata the whole thing while I'm at it?
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14 | ★ Fountain Of Youth | 15m | ||||
Even TRS with a microtrax felt scary coming through the top of chimney, minimal placements available. Flakey rocks on the right of chimney that look breakable are solid.
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16 | ★ Grot Heap Groove | 15m | ||||
Scouted on top rope solo, looks nice enough!
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Mount Keira | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
17 | ★ Flaunt - with Rory Hentshel | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start must have been easier when the ground was 2m higher... Dogged on the higher of the two cams to do the first part. Rory lead out onto the crack between Sex Haunt and Jaunt for an exciting adventure, sat on the rope to get a piece out. After the bolted station, we climbed up the corner crack worked right jamming above us in the roof crack. Lovely climb
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Mount Keira | ||||||
East Face | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Windy - with Rory Hentshel | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing climb, quite well protected with the right gear. Foot slipped for my first trad fall, the most intensely I've ever yelled falling. After the main crack I went right to the corner then right out of the roof. Reached for the rap rope to finish off, could face climb the red rock but there is a big block that might come unstuck if you pulled on it too hard. I put some weight on it but got the heebie jeebies and bailed to safety. Topping out options are sparse, I tied a figure 8 in the rap rope to belay the seconder with.
Used one #6, two #5's, one #4, two #2's, two #1's, one #0.75. Plenty of bumping the bigger cams for the main crack down low. Very awesome climb, great rock quality except for the sandy slab in the middle. |
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Mount Keira | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
15 | ★★ Jaunt - with Rory Hentshel | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great! Scary on the sandy start and freaky in the roof traverse but solid morning's outing
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Mount Keira | ||||||
West Face | ||||||
8 | Volkswagon | 5m | ||||
An experience. Groveling, gear jamming on the wall preventing your leg moving
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14 | ★★ Feeling Seedy New Years Day | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pete Whittaker style start was great. Used 2x #5, 1 each #3 & #4 cams
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8 | ★ Outside Space | 6m | ||||
Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Scarborough Cliffs | ||||||
Whale of a Time Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Scars Bro | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Scarborough Cliffs | ||||||
Obesity Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★ Greyblade | 60m | ★ Good | |||
Nice after work Jaunt.
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Stonehaven | ||||||
17 | ★ Who the Fuck is Kenny | 11m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★ I Carried a Watermelon | 11m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★★ Coeur de Pardon | 9m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
24 | ★★ Les Dents de la Mère | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
28 degrees and 2000% humidity not doing any favours. This winter
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Sat 25th Nov 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek South Central | ||||||
23 | ★ Strike | 7m | ||||
Big moves only no subtle beta sorry
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22 | ★ Hunted Child | 8m | ||||
Good beta just gotta commit to bad hold
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23 | ★★ Crime Is Art | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally ticked this route after being shut down on it in 2016 and therefore hating the whole crag. Loving the power now
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Mon 6th Nov 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek South Central | ||||||
23 | ★★ Crime Is Art | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Made solid progress might finally send after 6 years of hating this and therefore the whole crag
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Stonehaven | ||||||
20 | ★ Fukinsei - with Jordan Cater | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
lap
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18 | ★ Bring Out The Chimp - with Jordan Cater | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice cruxy move on the arete
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19 | ★ Crazy In The Coconut - with Jordan Cater | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good jugs to tense crux
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18 | ★★ Blade and Bladder - with Jordan Cater | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome adventure, feels like Blueys blocky movement
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19 | ★ Frankensqueak - with Jordan Cater | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Milked the RH crack after roof, nice enough line
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24 | ★★ Les Dents de la Mère - with Jordan Cater | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
1x working attempt then 3x send burns, foot slip after standing into the crux. Joyous!
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Vanderholics Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Gina Hardface | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lap
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19 | ★★★ Vanderholics | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lap
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22 | ★★ Freak Magnet | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climb good cruxes
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Descent Gully Walls | ||||||
20 | ★★ Layoff | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice moves on solid rock down low, then don't drop the semi-sandy 2nd half like an idiot
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16 | Spokeye | 7m | ||||
Would be dicey if 16 is your limit
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18 | ★ Lefty | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Nice
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19 | ★ Janine | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Cool
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14 | Tony | 8m, 3 | ||||
Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Fear Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Two Boys One Skyhook | 110m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Jolly journey especially when a hold breaks on the 4th pitch. Had a peregrine falcon not happy to see us but we didn't get attacked
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
The Grotto Cliffline The Grotto Proper | ||||||
20 | ★★ Spinning Blades of Steel | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lap
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22 | ★★★ Amazon Queens Right Hand (flake) Variant | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Last I tried this would have been 6-7 years ago and panic struggled, went smooth second shot.
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Mon 11th Sep 2023 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Lair Members Area | ||||||
21 ~22 | ★★ Graba Granny | 16m, 5 | Average | |||
Great start but gross finish. Will get it next time
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Lair Gardens of Stone | ||||||
22 | ★★ New Years Resolution | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice moves
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20 | ★ Anti-Gravitron | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Tiny then big
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Lair Members Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Origami | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 laps
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Lair Titanic | ||||||
20 | ★★ Twilitght Zone | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Sandy first half, nice top half
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12 | ★ Mum's Short and Curleys | 15m | ||||
14 | ★★ It's a Lark | 15m | ||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Lair Gardens of Stone | ||||||
17 | ★ Hazy Days | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Super nice moves until the crux, then with practice that's nice too
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18 | ★ The Dish | 11m | ||||
Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
The Grotto Cliffline The Hood Area | ||||||
24 | ★★ Girls In The Hood | 8m, 4 | ||||
Moonboard simulator 5000. Managed everything but the crux
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21 | ★★ Baby Coneheads | 8m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Stonehaven | ||||||
20 | ★★ Donut Queen | 20m, 9 | ||||
Lovely juggy climb
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21 | ★★ The Last King of Scotland | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rested at start, the rest was fun
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21 | ★ Dead Pool | 12m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Wild difficult start to cruisy headwall.
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21 | ★ Milk Was A Bad Choice | 17m, 12 | Don't Bother | |||
Alright, very varied rock, not a fan either.
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20 | ★★ The Goon Of Fortune | 15m, 10 | Don't Bother | |||
Had to rest in a blank section. Didn't enjoy
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Stonehaven | ||||||
23 | ★★ Warrior of Light | 18m, 8 | ||||
Let go at the crux, couldn't see what foot was on. Lovely juggy start to tense balancy slab
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21 | ★ Coprophagia | 13m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm down
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21 | ★ Link's in ... da House | 13m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Solid climb, might have used a foot too far right at the big flake but meh, was in reach
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20 | ★ Mud Monkey | 12m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Quality flakes before spicy arete slabby move
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Hospital Rocks Slabby Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Dot The Dashund | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely easy excursion. Run out training for beginners
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19 | ★ Hair'o'tha Dog | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nails middle move! Decent climb
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Hospital Rocks Steeper Wall | ||||||
11 | ★ Uncle Udfuddy | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good finish to the day
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17 | ★ The Grouch | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better start to better wall
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17 | ★ Nimrod | 15m | ||||
Bastardy start to nice wall
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16 | ★ TG16 | 15m | ||||
Stick clipped the run out to practice. Good jugs
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17 | ★ Pasty Poofs | 15m | ||||
Tense middle section hence claiming the 17
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18 | ★★ Bamboozled | 15m | ||||
Nice excursion
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Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Stonehaven | ||||||
23 | ★★ 2 Crimps 1 Cup — 2 attempts | 13m, 8 | ||||
Small but solid crimps the whole way. Dirty holds to finish.
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22 | ★★ Krazy Kanguruh | 14m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did a direct start, lovely jaunt of a climb afterwards.
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20 | ★★ Bitchin About Lichen | 12m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up. No growling gecko this time
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22 | ★★ The Day Before The Day After Tomorrow | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Remembered the beta for Napalm Strike. Milked the juggy arete corner to finish.
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23 | ★★ 44 | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Broke off the solid sidepull at 4th bolt, still goes at same grade with big tall launch move.
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Stonehaven | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Cult of Chuck | 12m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
22 | ★★★ Trixie’s Ton | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
23 | ★★ 44 | 15m, 8 | ||||
Should have just lead it lol, oh well next visit.
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22 | ★★ Chiffre Apres Chiffre | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Couldn't remember why this was a 22. No feet. Good struggle!
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20 | ★★ Waiting for Wade | 18m | ||||
22 crux but the rest is 18 = 20 why not
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21 | ★★ Pole Dance | 18m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Coalcliff | ||||||
The Quarterdeck The Top Deck | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Moore or Less Alright | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Head game fun leaving the safety of the crack for wall. Decent placements on the wall but
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16 | ★★ Pirates & Plunders | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely jaunt by the sea
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16 | ★★★ Apprehension | 20m | ||||
Super nice line, top feels scary
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18 | ★ Borderline | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ Call of Kthulhu | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lovely the whole way, stiff start in the thin crack
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21 | ★★★ Deadman's Chest | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Giga jug near the top
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22 | ★★ Orange Betty | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super nice crux
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21 | ★★★ The Nautilus | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Took a rest mid-way. Great line, reachy move at start
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20 | ★★ Roaring Forties | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Didn't have the gas for the top, adventurous start
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Coalcliff | ||||||
The Quarterdeck The Alcove | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Shore Break | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Belgian Tourists in Wollongong! Used big juggy crack above ledge to rest in. Allowed?
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Coalcliff | ||||||
The Quarterdeck ABC Area | ||||||
20 | ★★ Three Sheets | 12m, 6 | ||||
Can't remember if sent clean, nice climb.
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15 | The Mighty Moonfish | 12m, 5 | ||||
22 | ★★ Nails | 10m, 4 | ||||
Couldn't hack the start, the rest is nice from memory.
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19 | ★ Pegleg | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good wandering around
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14 | Sidearms | 8m, 3 | ||||
12 | ★ ABC | 15m, 4 | ||||
17 | ★★ Acquired Arete | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Coalcliff | ||||||
The Quarterdeck Entrance Gully South | ||||||
20 | ★ The Frying Dutchman | 25m, 9 | ||||
17 | Keel-Hauled | 20m, 8 |