Routes as sport in Illawarra and Shoalhaven

A crazy extension to Metamorphosis climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Endurance test piece.

Daniel

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Jake Bresnehan

Short but desperately powerful climbing. Excellent. Originally climbed as Attack Mode to the fixed biner and given grade 32. Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder.

Start Attack mode but go direct.

The alternate unethical approach to https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/sutherland/route/13097509

Sit start matched on a large jug at the far right end of the cave. Traverse about a meter left on some crimps to meet the Sloper Rail line running along the roof. Follow this to the crack and all the way out the cave traversing right along the face before a scary top out.

Liam Buckman

He says he cant but its the belief he can.

Start up Cheese Monster past the first crux. At the break climb right, past the crux of "Non-Dairy Cheese-Like Substitute". At the break under the roof, head straight out past slopes and edges (V9) and finish with a big move to the break. Awesomely sustained climb, vision and bolts by Robbie Le Breton, climbed by Vince Day.

Route renamed on request of Vince Day in 2020.

Lee Cossey

Tom O'Halloran

Climb meta to the last bolt then head left to the ‘jug’ rest on baby cheeses and do it’s final crux before finishing up the big cheese.

Same first move as Brown Badge, then head right to finish all the way up ANS. Originally bolted by Rob Lebreton

Bit of a debate about the grade, seems 32/33!! Start as for Frosty, at the major break where frosty continues upwards, veer left via some awesome bouldery moves.

The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian.

Daniel Fisher

Rose Weller

White Trash into Tramp Stamp via the project bolts.Then just keep on trucking. Slightly harder version of Tramp Stamp original.

As for either WT or SITW. If beginning up WT, trend leftwards to join the traverse on Skin to Skin, get your ass up to the cave at the chain on top of SITW. From here wind the biceps up and punch out along the roof flake until a chain anchor around the lip. Could be the best roof climb in Australia. Awesome!!!

Extension of "Sexy is the Word".

Small flakes up the consistently overhanging wall. Looks about grade 1 million ! Closed Project until 2023

As for The Simple Life for three bolts, then right and through centre of cave. Runout and hard.

Slab > roof > big throw > headwall > two crimp mantle

Start up WBTM, traverse right into "Strike of the Silver Fox" then continue right through roof for a few more meters before turning the lip and finishing up head wall.

Start up Cheesemonster. At the break traverse right a few metres to join Non Dairy Cheeselike Substitute, and finish up that.

Start on 'ankles away' then head right through multiple roofs to a ledge before the unique 'bowl' crux and final roof. Wait for a dry spell and take some long slings.

One for the Kneebarers, starts a few metres left of Cheese Gobbler up via a couple powerful moves and cruxy kneebar into the quality roof and head wall.

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Parasite into the finish of El Maco via the cool 'la rose' move. Sustained.

Start as for Parasite past the crux the head left through El Maco to finish up the crux of Frosty.

Start as for Frosty and at 3rd bolt move leftwards towards the small cave directly under the roof, blast directly through roof.

The original line. From Meet The G anchors, climb around rooflet onto upper face to high anchor.

A long link-up worthy of mention as it covers some amazing country. Start up Dude Food, to go through Vogue and up Church Of Christ to anchors. Head right across Turn Your Eyes Insane to finish up Hopelessly Devoted To You anchors.

Relatively easy climbing to a desperate boulder problem crux (~V9). Most of the recent ascentionists use a different (easier) crux sequence to the original ascentionists and the grade might be coming down soon.

climb the first 2 bolts of narcosis, then bust right to the lip of slip, slop, slap. clip the bolt and finish up slip slop slap!! great fun!

Start: as for narcosis

The really obvious and desperate looking arete that overhangs the boulders, just left of Caribbean Beat Master. Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

Short crack to spectacular orange line above.

As for Stinky Cheese for 8 metres or so. Head up through the slopey flake to the start of the roof. Go left about 10 metres to join the last 3 moves of Cheesemonster (stay high).

Andrew Bull Hugo Hornshaw

Insane! A line of holds just happens to lead into the belly of the big roof, meeting the Big Cheese for the final few moves at the lip. The star destroyer shaped roof is brilliant pocketed sandstone.

Extension to Old, Fat and Married.

Start as for Comin' at ya Pundi, through initial crux, then out left past a hanger under roof to finish up the final moves of El Maco.

The line just right of lucious, a sandy start leads into some tough but good bouldery moves through the roof, finishes up Aloha.

5m left of Slurry Whipping. Line of RBs over bulge to double RBs.

This is the left arete of the awesome hanging wall. Climb from the ground to a sustained boulder problem past the last 2 bolts.

The line just to the right of Meet The G. Fun climbing via some sandy sections to a heartbreaker ending. Conditions help. Previously known by another name. The first ascentionist has requested that the route be known by the original name given to it by the equipper.

A perfect boulder problem on a rope. Three moves to glory... slip, slop, slap.

Tara Sutherland's 2002 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 30.

The hardest route at New Nowra? Left most line directly up through the massive steepness. Scramble up shale mess to small ledge. Bouldery and unlikely start onto the white white (ignore seepy seam) - then up and out out out. Spaced bolting.

Variants to NDCS : just before the final crux, drop-down onto Cheesemonster's final big jug. Finish as for Cheesemonster or Stinky Cheese.

Mark McGivern

Right hand exit to dungeon master, keep right after the first jump around the lip and finish up the slab.

Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'.

If you love pumped forearms then at the last bolt (before anchor) traverse left to finish up Brown Badge.

Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.

Classic South Central climbing! Do the start dyno of Brown Badge, then head right past a couple independant bolts to join Spermies, and finish at its anchors.

A good line that shares the first two rings of 'Maintain The Rage' before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up 'Black Flag'.

Classic steep Nowra climbing. Don't pump out after the crux - it has been done!

Start 4m R of Evil E, stick clip and batman to start. The climbing is barely any harder than Evil E but is more sustained, and just as brilliant. It's easy to place the draws while lowering off Evil E if you want the soft option.

As for Insane Funk and the Evil Grip but go right out of the hole at the third bolt across a few crimps back into Evil E rather than left into Funky Gripster.

Batman to start of Evil E. Move left and do the crux of Insane in the Brain then left at the 4th bolt into the undercling crux of Funky Gripsta. Under the rooflet, move right a metre and finish up Evil E through its crux. Classic link up.

Make sure you traverse right into Evil E directly after the crux of Funky - if you find yourself at the kneebar rest, you've gone much too far. Give yourself 28 if you do it this way.

Super bouldery roof. The original flake in the roof broke and has now been replaced by a drilled pocket.

Start: Just left of rabbit trap on small pockets and edges.

2m right of SITW , rebolted May 2017.

A savage little number with a very hard crux. Great sequence!

Start matched on the low nothing rail anything higher is not in until both feet are off the ground.

Vertical reach restrictions apply! If you are 6ft plus standing on Pet Rok is not allowed. Shorter can still stand on Pet Rok.

Essentially the harder better version of Brown badge.

The central line through the best rock of the cave. Gymnastic climbing in the first half. Outstanding boulder problem after the ledge. Kneepad used on the first ascent.

To minimise rope drag double or triple length draws are recommended, as well as unclipping previous draws where possible.

4 bolts above DAD. Superb rock and thin technical climbing. Some of the best rock on the wall with small edges and pockets. Dedication to the vision of Will creating the line. With his Name and climbing hold company Unleashed : )

Rap of double rings at top. Recommend pre clipping 1st bolt. Start at ledge and up steep over hang. Up and up to crux on small pockets and moving right across the shield to arete. Good no hands rest and spicy slab finisher! Epic climbing and lasting memory for the faithful hound

Impressive steep arete, overhung on both sides. Bolts still good as at 2020. Fantastic easier climbing to a stout final section.

A fun slab to half way followed by hard, technical, bouldery climbing directly up the middle of the steep headwall above. Great climbing, and a beautiful piece of rock.

A couple of notes...

• Take care of falls with a soft catch, you will possibly hit the ledge falling between the 1st and 2nd, or 2nd and 3rd bolts. A new bolt has been added between what was the 3rd and 4th bolts making this section nice and safe now.

• The grade will probably vary greatly with height, so take whatever seems right for you. If you're quite short, this will still be doable and super fun with creative beta, but expect a challenge.

Great climbing to even greater climbing, moving through side pulls to last bolt.

Awesomely long crimp sequence up to steep finish.

Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. Start 3m R of Dixie Normous, Steep and powerful start leads to bouldery climbing leading righwards to arete. Power endurance test piece.

The right hand route. Sweet moves to good rest then bouldery crux... awesome

The awesome line to the left of Father Figure, starts under the roof and then climbs the orange wall to the right of the cave.

As for Stinky Cheese for 15 metres or so. Where Dick Cheese traverses left at the break near the end, go up for two bolts then left to Dick Cheese anchors.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Traverse across the brilliant white rock in an excellent position, crossing the bulge to a fine headwall. Extend the clip on the bolt before the steepness to avoid excessive drag.

The original project before Curds of Prey was found, the huge undercling at the lip looked so inviting. A cool sequence to turn the lip, then traverse left along the juggy red stone to the apex of the cheese wedge. Clip the chains on The Wheel of Cheese, then top out!

Has been called the best 28 in the world. The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.

Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.

Angie Scarth-Johnson (11)