Routes in Mid North Coast

Funky climbing up the big chimney on the left of the crag.

All Trad up crack and left at top to anchor for TST

Start 5 meters right of HOTD up finger crack in corner topped by what appears to be a loose block (actually solidly wedged) then traverse left and join HOTD. Avoids offwidth start.

20 metres around the corner from R. Natural gear, 2 large cams are useful. Offwidth start leads to small grassy ledge. Over bulge then traverse right and up gully. Top out for tree belay.

In the middle of the wall, great climb for beginners, up the wall past nicely spaced bolts to a lower off in the groove down right of the tree.

1m right of TM. Natural gear (cams) in breaks, 1 fixed hanger, finish at rings above TM

3 bolts, finish as per CRTB

Obvious Corner Crack. Up into the juggy corner, around the roof and up a nice hand crack to a tree.

The right side of the arete.

Up Wall on Trad Gear

6m R of updl. Start above small cave, up to vertical crack, then another smaller cave, over this to ledge. Tree anchor.climb

70m right of Ankle Confidence, below obvious twin cracks leading to a fig tree and jutting prow above. 1st pitch (45m): Up easy ledge to left of line, to meet at start of cracks. Climb cracks (mainly right hand crack) to ledge. 2nd pitch (15m): Left across loose blocks, traverse, then up to hanging corner. Aid for 5m to ledge then free to large ledge. 3rd pitch has not yet been completed. Might go free at about 22.

Access traverse, do not attempt if wet as waves can make this part dangerous. Rope up at slot, clip bolt, traverse to Crows Nest for the first few climbs, or continue rising traverse to the bigger belay ledge the 'South Side Platform'.

Follow fixed hangers through overlap and up to pass old original bolt next to new fixed hanger. The anchors are set quite far back at the top.

The standout pillar with obvious hand/finger crackline and small overlap at 3m height, around to the R of FW. It is possible to walk off from the top.

The corner crack 2 metres left of Half Mast. Good gear the whole way. Likely already climbed due to the absence of loose rock. It can be climbed at high tide

Use block on right for gear. When block finishes toot your foghorn and continue up wall on decent jugs. Be wary of possible detached blocks at top. Double carrot bolts back from the edge. Note: Aug 2023- some ratbags dislodged and tumbled some large sections next to this climb and some at the top of this climb. This will be assessed asap and notes updated. If your climbing there, climb the upper with caution.

The anchors are above the first wall opposite the "almost-an-island" lump of angled rock. Climb up the corner of the detached slab, or directly up the face

Approx 30 m's before the grassy bowl above the slot, head right and steep downhill to the tope-rope anchors. Use long slings or set-up rope to reduce rope drag

Starts on the right hand side of a steep wall. A granitic version of Arapilies bulges, seams and overhanging silliness. 1st pitch (45m): Up and diagonally right to layback corner. Up this to slabby groove and on to top.

Another historical line, marked "M" in the ol' white paint style 1m right of "HM". RS/FA unknown.... couple gear options down low but nothing? for the top half and the slightly desperate slopy topout to the big ledge. optional easy 2m headwall or walk off left

Start in line with arete 2m left and below WINK WINK. Pro in horizontal crack. Up and left for pro in left cnr crack. Move up and right to first BR Follow BR line to top. 3 BR's plus natural. Nice and pleasant. Tree belay

Cnr crack - It was there. Natural Pro

Thin pro at start up to small tree.

8m right of Blue Sky Mining. Up onto ledge then up crack past a bolt to top.

The crack 2m left of Blue Sky Mining.

The first crack on the left side of the tier. U crack through the dirt to the top. A great climb if you are sick in the head.

The crack 1m right of 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

Climb the right hand crack to chain. Large cams. The second route climbed at Wonderland. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

Climb arete and wall past 2 bolts and trad gear to a tree belay.

Scramble up face to where the crack starts in a bulge next to grass tree. Pull through bulge, then nice jams to the top.

2m crack on west face

Flakes and edges 2m left of "what crack"

2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay.

Farthest left bolted climb on cliff. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay

The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all.

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

Start up Chimney to ledge, then up beautiful corner crack to roof and traverse right under roof to anchors.

Start on low step below large tree on set back ledge. On ledge three options to climb with the crack in the middle that takes two large cams (a #4 is handy). Easier line on the left.

The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA

Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay

2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you.

15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers.

Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings.

About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy.

Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout.

Tough opening sequence leading to the same, fun upper section.

The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay.

Up through Rooflet to anchor.

Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors.

Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor

No hand slab up the left of the Worm Wiggle twins.

Starting on a good edge underneath the rectangular grey blocks on the left side of the "Spray Wall", scramble steeply up and left over the blocks.

Traverse from left to right. Start on choss jugs to the right of shallow chimney and finish on holds on the black patch that’s to the right of metal pin in rock.

Sit start obvious crack line R of DH

Sit start to the L of DH. Up crack.

through the big hole

Straight up the block with the crack.

up the side of the big block.

Small scramble up the left slightly overhanging arete in the cave on the north end of the beach.

Sit start on jug rail up back of block staying off the left block, mantle over bulge and up crack to top

Stay out of the cracks either side.

Easy but committing!

Small corner used to access the Grey Area and beyond.

Start R of Mako and traverse airily seaward to far arete and over block, down WMDITW

Sit start the crack and layback up.

Bad wet landing.

Feels higher than it is.

Awesome at the grade! Up past two pockets.

The arete.

SS at arete right of LHF and head straight up

Stand start to LHF

On opposite side to dead tree hand traverse diagonal crack

North arete, goal side of plaque block

Start for cornered treavese right following the Horizontal crack finish up

First problem done here in 1996.