Routes as trad in New South Wales and ACT

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not Australia. Fantastic climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch. Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

1. 22m (18) Blast up the crack, you won't get lost. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

Starts at the obvious layback flake 4m left of On Edge. Most link pitch 1 & 2 and forego the final pitch, descending via lowers or onto ledge and sketchy traverse right (use a rope) to rap anchors on Angular crack.

1. 15m (17) Up sustained layback flake (big cams) to ledge (most link straight into 2nd pitch)

2. 15m (17) From ledge head right and up obvious crack through rooflet to lower-offs or onto ledge and carrot belay

3. 23m (??) Rarely done chimney pitch off to the left.

Lower-offs and new belay carrots added 2016.

Offers up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards.

Sweet Dream is regarded as the best introduction to multi-pitch climbing in New South Wales - however a recent fatality from rock fall and serious accident involving belayer failure should remind climbers this is not a casual walk in the park. The advice below is relevant to any multi-pitch route - but is contained in this route description to make sure people read it.

Rock fall is a hazard on any outdoor rock climb - but it can be especially hazardous on Sweet Dreams due to multiple parties being on the route at the same time. The danger is mainly from the unstable hillside above the route when topping out - but loose rock can be found on any pitch. Wear a helmet (on the approach and even when queuing at the base of the route) and rig belays with long enough slings/rope that a belayer can dodge falling missiles without being chained down. Care needs to be taken by all parties who attempt this route. If you have a beginner in tow let them know to be careful around loose rock.

This route is mainly low angle and thus easily affected by rain and summer sun. Have the skills and equipment to abseil off the route if required. This includes taking tube style belay devices suitable for double ropes (a grigri will not work). All belays are fitted with double ringbolts suitable for abseiling. A 60m rope is required for retreat above pitch 2 - use the anchors on Saccharine Nightmare.

Although there are many bolts on this route - this is NOT a sport route (despite what you may have heard). A trad rack is required for pitches 2 & 5 and useful on other pitches (single set of finger to fist sized cams + a couple of large wires will suffice). Bolt brackets are no longer required on this route. Most of the bolts were placed after the first ascent.

The route is only grade 14 if you finish via the corner system & left finish on pitch 5. There are two bolted variants to this pitch (both around grade 17) that avoid potential loose rock in the corner. Local advice is to use these pitches in preference to the corner (this was the location of the rockfall fatality).

Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.

1. 20m (14) Short wall past bolt onto ledge then left to chimney (bolt), up to ledge and DRB belay.

2. 20m (10) Trad protected crack to DRB belay in little alcove. Save a large cam for the last few metres of this pitch. Without trad you will be SOLOING this pitch.

3. 28m (13) Traverse up and right across slab past 6 bolts and couple of cam slots to DRB.

4. 25m (13) Up via very easy climbing and no protection to second set of DRB after about 8m (ignore these). Continue up wall (3 bolts & optional cam), then step right to crack above bowel clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner at one of two sets of DRBs. The right one is best for the trad corner - the left is best for the bolted grade 17 variants. Either way - this is an exposed belay to rockfall - be prepared to dodge.

5. 40m (14) Up easy trad protected corner for 20m, move left a few moves when possible then continue up subtle trad protected corner for another 10m to low double bolt belay - or even better a massive tree belay another 10m up the hill. Technically this is called the 'Variant Finish' but is the common way this route is now done.

The three variants to pitch 5 off the ledge are described here - but also have separate listings on this website.

The Original Finish (14) - climb the same trad corner for 20m then traverses RIGHT onto a big ledge and cam belay near huge detached blocks (not recommended due to potential loose rock). Finish up via 10m (10) pitch up the chossy overhang above taking extreme care not to drop rocks on people below.

Middle Bolted Variant (15-17) - climbs the wall just left of the corner past several ringbolts and then goes directly up the TRAD protected finish of the original pitch 5. This pitch is the easier of the two variants - it is possible to escape into the corner at one point which makes it more like grade 15.

Left Bolted Variant (17) - from the left DRB climb the subtle exposed arete past three or so ringbolts then join into the Middle Variant for a couple of bolts and then the trad finish. It is possible to traverse left at about 20m to the final belay of Saccharin Nightmare - and finish up that routes top bolted pitch (thus avoiding the trad finish of Sweet Dreams.

Start 1.5m left of the chimney (Valhalla).

1. 24m (13) Up crack then left up corner to ledge. DBB rap anchors.

2. 22m (14) Crack and corner.

Corner 2m left of SSCC1. Up corner through trees and continue up the corner behind the block above. 60m rope is fine for abseiling and lowering.

Take extra hand-size cams, plus a big cam for the top. The 2 bolt belay (carrots) is easily missed - look for them very close to where you top out.

Finger crack 2m left of Chastity. One hard move. Lower off shared chains on top.

Most will agree, this climb is the best easy/moderate trad route at the Point and for miles around. Gear placement is amply available and the climbing consistent at the grade. Start in the middle of the dark south-facing wall to the right of the Man Overboard corner. Follow the sinuous crack as it slowly widens to hand size.

The corner crack 4m left of Flake Crack.

1. 15m Up corner to chains.

2. 15m Left up corner and gully.

3. 22m Walk left, up into chimney.

Up past difficult mantle then up right to break. Traverse right to edge of arete then up to top passing several carrots on the way. Belay just below top out on stainless carrots. Belay leader from top belay to rap chains for Angular Crack.

Re-bolted with stainless glue in carrots in 2016.

Direct start is 24.

Start: Thin crack 6m left of 'The Bells of Rhymney',

Major corner crack and a popular all trad line. Beware, the route name is apt - there have been a couple of fatalities on this route. If in doubt don't run it out.

Start in the corner, just right of the typical abseil line. Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock.

One of the best and most traveled easy routes in the mountains - great rock and exposure. Can be done as one big pitch with a couple of slings. Start on blocks at base of grey slab beneath Eyrie belay cave.

1. 30m (12) Slab past cams to ring bolt (possible belay), left to arete, past another FH and up to the unique bolted belay cave. 2 bolts plus single rack of cams (Camalot 0.5-4)

2. 15m (12) Out left hand side of cave via steep, exposed moves to FH. Up left side of arete and back onto main face to find old RB. Top out for carrot belay set back from the edge, or DRB on the boulder further back.

The first route at The County (16/6/79). Very popular, and very classic. The obvious splitter hand crack. New lower-off from shackle on tree at top.

The splitter line 3m L of Amen Corner, initialled "J". Where the crack forks at 15m, take the left option. Take a full rack. Lower off chains (which are a bit outdated).

Blocky corner 3m left of TW. More popular as a rap line than a route, and probably rightly so.

Classic roof traverse above great space

Start: Right hand corner/offwidth, as for A

1. 16m (14) Thrutch up chossy corner then up and left to belay at bottom of offwidth. Trad and manky carrot belay.

2. 24m (16) What you're here for. Up offwidth in left corner, carrot at top then traverse into space. Watch your helmet at the squeeze. Up at chimney, belay there on gear or at two carrots on ledge outside. Can abseil here with a 60m.

3. 10m (14) Up and crank over side of offwidth, tree belay

Up to the ledge then head left to the arete and enjoy the exposure.

Start 2m left of Sincerity. The wide crack in the corner - take big cams. Double hangers with rings lower off at the top.

From the last ledge belay of Sweet Dreams take the left line of ringbolts up the blunt arete - either finish direct up the corner (trad) or traverse left at 15m into top pitch of Saccharine Nightmare (bolts).

1. 20m

2. 20m

3. 28m

4. 8m

5. 16m

6. 25m

The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best. If you're at this end of the crag at the end of the day this route is a nice way to significantly shorten the walk out. It's not too hard to climb it with packs on, then do a 200m bush bash due east along the ridge to the firetrail. Start 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab. Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist.

1. 30m Up slab to bulge, hand traverse around to the right and up to belay with an eclectic assortment of hardware.

2. Up slab, veering left and up. Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes, or even on a single rope if you think about which bolts to skip and which to extend.

The offwidth 8m L of Eternity with an undercut start. Thankfully it doesn't climb like an offwidth! Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor.

2m left of E.

Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.

Protection: Cams: BD #.4, #.5, #.75 x 2, #1, #2, 1 carrot

Anchors: ring bolts with shackles

Corner 4m left of N. Undercut start, then corner to cave (use high poor fixed pin and extra wires). Traverse left to ledge (poor piton + cams). Go left 2m up overhang (cam on left) and runout up wall to 2 carrot belay.

The arete right of CD. Many people traverse in from the left or right. 4 carrots plus medium-large gear.

1. 20m (14) Follow aesthetic crack up to belay stance. DBB.

2. 30m Not really worth doing. Head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. 50m rap to ground. BRs and anchor replaced August 2017.

The major splitter corner crack initialled "AC". Take a full rack, but you stll have to run out the offwidth! Lower off chains (60m rope will get you to the ground on stretch).

Up 'Dracophyllum Corner' to ledge then move left and straight up wall.

Pleasant arete. Most people start 1m R of the arête for a few metres, then move left. The gear is in some opinions "good, but spaced", but in others' opinions this route is quite dangerous to half height particularly now that the wire slots are getting worn thanks to the soft rock. Take a rack including a 4 Friend, and a bolt plate in case Rattler's top carrot looks tempting.

Classic face to the right of the Obituary. Quite unique rock. This is a mixed route, medium/large wires and multiple hand-crack sized cams required to back up the bolts.

The most popular climb in the 'Warrumbungles' and justifiably so. One of the most striking lines in Australia. Can be safely climbed and descended with a single 70m rope.

1. 30m (6) The first 90 metres was originally climbed in three pitches but can be done quite safely (and more easily) in two rope stretching pitches (50m rope), including comfy belays. Follow rib.

2. 30m (8). Keep following rib.

3. 30m (8). Keep following rib to large ledge.

4. 40m (14) Move out left around the rib at the little horn and onto the northern face for approx 5m and then back to the arete. Up to a large ledge. Approx 3 pitons on this pitch.

5. 20m (13) Up the rib from here on. The ledges for good belays are pretty obvious and about 20 metres apart.

6. 20m (12)

7. 20m (11) Up past 2 pitons at start.

Was originally called 'Cornerstone Rib Direct' but as the direct version is far more popular than the 'original' version, the direct version has taken the name.

Sydney classic at the grade! A great example of a mixed route, requiring quite a bit of trad. Start on right side of main wall at the right leading groove/flake feature with very high first bolt (stick-clip it). Up the groove (2 RBs), sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Finish up a exposed flake crack on left side of arete (cams and wires) then one final RB to lower-offs.

Another old classic. Bring 4-5 bolt plates for the beginning of climb. The rest is trad pro. Abseil access from top chains is approx 50m to ground. Tie a stopper knot.

Start: 8m right of BPC. Has an alternate direct start 8m right up corner past old bolt.

1. 10m Up grey wall to small corner, right onto slab, traverse right to tree. Most parties skip this belay and continue up p2 to cave belay.

2. 15m Cracks (big pro) to cave. DRBB.

3. 25m Through the cave and hole, or corner outside to the top. DBB.

Climb can be done in 2 pitches if you begin at direct start. (No traverse, just follow straight up the crack to cave).

Replaced bolts November 2015

Blue Mountains trad multi-pitch classic (with zero bolts!). This is the major corner system just left of the steep orange buttress. Gets sun by 8:30am in winter. Original pitches are described here, but it’s better to combine pitches 1 & 2, and 3 & 4. Note that the topo above greatly foreshortens all but the first pitch.

1. 22m (17) Hard start to get out of shale band, then up narrow chimney and corner to stance below roof. You can throw your rope over the little tree 4 or 5 metres up and use it as a slightly exciting top rope anchor to mitigate the start being hard to protect.

2. 10m (17) Over roof and up lovely corner to belay either beneath block at stance with bird crap, or (better) on ledge 2m higher, left of block.

3. 25m (17) Negotiate blocks, then follow incredible steep corner and sloping shelf to belay in cave. The money pitch.

4. 6m (14) Traverse hard left and out to double carrot belay (taking care with thin ironstone plates). Watch out for abseilers! If you have linked the previous pitch into this one it can be worth building a trad anchor just below the top out to avoid heinous rope drag and then scrambling off (roped up) from here.

1. Start as for PIS, right into fantastic corner and up around the slight rooflet. Go left under bulge at top to anchors as for Gently Mine.

2. Not really worth doing. Head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. 50m rap to ground. Rebolted August 2017.

A perspective from the one of the first ascentionist, Keith Bell. From a slight online interview conducted, Keith had the following to share with the world about the first ascent of this beautiful climb:

I was keen on Greek and Roman History/Myths and the Gates of Janus refer to a temple with two doors. I think they were opened when Rome was at war and closed in peace time. A Janus Head is also two joined heads looking in different directions. I think the name came to me because a) it sounds good and b) The climb lies at the bottom of an access gully.

Recently I wrote the following: By the start of 1970, a few climbing goals had been kicked and others had arisen to take their place. In the Warrumbungles, Howard Bevan and I had made the fourth ascent of Lieben, and the first ascent of the Gates of Janus at Mt Boyce. Rather stupidly this ascent was made in the first wear of my first pair of friction boots, a pair of RD’s that featured brown suede leather uppers and bright red laces. The rubber on the sole was case hardened and since it had not been roughed up made the layback up the corner a very slippery affair. The ascent was also cam and hexcentric free leaving the only large protection available, the extruded aluminium hexagonal chunks that were fashioned and sold by John Ewbank.

Get here early for this one.

Start: Wall to the right of OE.

1. 9m (-) Wall to ledge and triple bolt belay

2. 40m (10) Left up wall, slight recess and nose to tree belay.

Walk past DRP and continue past double rap rings on arete. 20m further is an old rap station made of old green tape tied off a gum tree. 5m further is a gum tree growing beneath some think brush. Sandstone block marked 'S' with cairn on top here. Scramble up through scrub for approx 10m then head right to find the line of fixed hangers.

1. 33m (8). Fixed hangers & Carrots. Up and right to cave on arete. Easy face climbing on easy angled slab, straight up with some beautiful views. Stay on route or risk hitting some chossy rock. Triple Carrot belay on ledge (admire old rusty belay in cave on your right.)

2. 26m (8) Left along ledge, then up and back to corner. It's possible to scramble off left here.

3. 14m (6) A fixed hanger, then medium cams/nuts. Up right crack. Belay off Rap anchors in Chimney. To get off here, rap to previous belay & scramble left or...

4. 26m (14) Alternate Finish. Chimney up abseil route, past anchor and up. Walk off as for Dirty Rotten Pig. Easy face climbing up the line of ring bolts just left (facing the cliff) of the first boars head abseil.

LOST FROM LEFT SCRAMBLE? If you're just climbing the bolted sections, here's how to get out:

Follow the line of bolts left, around the cliff, through the small forest and up onto the slab (about 15 mins). Look to your left and you'll see a set of staples in the boulder. Set up a hand-line from here using the bolts- left to the small cave, then around to the opposite side of the boulder, following the line of bolts along a high traverse, over a small gap, before meeting the main cliffline and short walk up to the carpark. You will not be able to belay due to the amount of turns so be careful setting this line up, and consider ways of protecting yourself. Tie the end off at the last bolt and use the standard 2 carabiners on safety to traverse, with draws at each bolt. Note- the exit can be much more daunting for a nervous beginner than the actual climb, but is a fun experience.

Stellar corner crack - one of the best easy cracks in the Mtns. Start under roof marked HD, up slab to bouldery move through roof (bolt) and then gear thereafter. Finish with airy traverse left and mantle up to ledge. There is double ringbolts above the route (awkward to belay from but fine for rap cleaning), or chain 5m to the left. Protected by #4 size cams and smaller - hexes also work fine.

A remarkable juggy headwall on the 2nd pitch. Start 2m right of AMJ below bolt at 5m. Single set of cams required.

1. 20m 2 bolts and spaced trad to double bolt belay.

2. 30m Continue up wall and slightly overhung orange jugs above (6 bolts).

Stunning technical arete 2m left of GW. Bolts are spaced and can be supplemented with cams (#2 & #3 Camalot).

Traverse out left and up, aiming for the nose. Up this to the top. There is a bolt hanger to get you past the fairly blank section on the arete. Double carrot belay on top.

Start: Rap into the embankment just to the right of the lowest point in the lighthouse fence.

Has seen a few fatalities, and not a great choice if its at your limit because you have to fiddle to get gear in the middle of the hardest climbing to protect a runout. A #5 camalot will help up high. Belay off UBs near the tree roots and on the boulder, not off the tree.

An easy, well-protected popular classic. Climbed on a searing summer's day, it was the first climb done on 'The Northern Slabs', taking the line of least resistance. Start at a slanting crack eight metres left of 'Equilibrium'.

1. 40m - Rightwards up the crack, then follow the groove leftwards to a sloping ledge. Belay at some wedged blocks.

2. 20m - Doddle leftwards up the groove to a belay in the corner.

3. 25m - Bridge and layback up the short corner, then left and up the steepening groove. Continue to a ledge and belay on the right.

4. 35m - Up the twin grooves to a large terrace covered with loose rock.

This is often run together into two pitches (1/2, 3/4) rather than four. If you love slabs it's also possible to combine P2 and P3 by slabbing up as for Ephemeros, avoiding the short corner on P3.

Classic. Take a full rack with heaps of wires. Lower-offs were added, then chopped, and are still absent as at Jan 2023.

Traverse left past single carrot to crack/flake. Climb directly up along the yellow rock to top. Belay in back of cave in pockets or top out and off trees.

Start: 7m left of the chopped steps in the descent gully.

The obvious crack - good intro to jamming

Start: To the right of E. Straight up nice slab aiming for the brief vague corner a metre or two right of the Eyrie's belay cave. Straight up this and into jugs above.

Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block.

Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!

Protection:

Cams: BD #1 (red), BD #.5 (purple)

Carrots: 3

Anchors: Good ledge with ring bolts plus shackles.

Corner to the right of ME.

A link-up of Sweet Dreams into Saccharine Nightmare that creates a sport climbers version of Sweet Dreams - giving slightly harder climbing and a lot more bolts. You will still need a couple of cams for Sweet Dreams pitch 2.

1. 20m (13) Pitch 1 of Sweet Dreams (ring bolts + slings)

2. 30m (12) Pitch 2 of Sweet Dreams (cams - no bolts)

3. 30m (12) Pitch 3 of Sweet Dreams to end of traverse and double RB belay. Continue past the first set of DRB to the second set 8m further. (ring bolts)

4. 35m (17) Pitch 3 of Saccharine Nightmare (12 ringbolts)

5. 10m (14) Pitch 4 of Saccharine Nightmare (3 ringbolts)

An olden day classic - historical!

Start: 20m right of FDds on smaller block down and right of the monster?

1. 35m (13) Wall to ledge below big block, left, then up to belay on top of block.

2. 30m (15) Big corner to block, move left and up to ledge or continue up crack.

3. 30m (13) Bulge, then into chimney and up.

Interesting historical note: the monster block that forms the first pitch used to be closer to the wall and higher up, but sometime in the 1970s it slid a couple of metres during a torrential rain storm. Many guidebook descriptions haven't been updated since the FA, causing confusion for many repeat ascentionists.

A light rack of cams (maybe BD 0.3 - 3) is more than enough to protect this. Most bolts are carrots

1. 18m (8) Up a few metres to bolt (used more to show direction than for protection). Up to vertical crack for pro and up bulbous wall (another bolt on right) to DBB at top of buttress. Walk up and right 8 metres to start of next pitch. DBB on wall. Many people don't find the start of this and have epics, walk 8m, find the DBB!

2. 40m (12) Left of belay grunt onto wall (crux). Natural pro in crack or horizontal breaks up higher. Clip bolt on left. Then move diagonally right to small friend (#0) in horizontal crack and further rightwards on easy stuff to bolt (clip with sling to reduce drag). Up left clipping two bolts, steep tricky move (easiest if you move left). Easy 10m ramble with two bolts to DBB. Best to give your second a tight rope when they start the pitch.

3. 16m (9) Bolt on right shows the way, then up crack on left to belay. (Bolt and #½ friend or purple camalot.)

4. 45m (8) From right of the belay move up a few metres, then traverse left past bolt runner to arête/ridge. Up ridge 30m past 4 bolts. Walk across rightwards to bolt on little buttress. Over this and walk 10m+ (no bolt protection) and scramble through small bushes up easy crack into cave to DBB (at your feet).

5. 21m (12) From belay start to the right. Up wall trending left past 4 bolts. Climb onto large blocks at top. They seem OK. And traverse right passing bolt that protects the second to DBB.

6. 26m (8) Clip bolt on right of belay. Stand on rock thing and up. Follow ridge with a few bolts to top. DBB.

Climb the obvious corner. Beware of the brown snake that likes the top out jug on the left hand side.

Seriously, beware in summer

Start: often used as the descent route.

Nowadays the leader can clean their own gear off pitch 1 by finishing at the anchors of 'Skinless Chicken', on the arete.

Start: As for 'Solomon'.

1. 25m (19) Up Solomon's corner for 8m then take the left diagonal crack to blocks. DRB rap anchor.

2. 26m (19) Often not bothered with. Left up the blocks, right to arete. Up.

3 major splitter cracks are the dominant features on the left side of the wall. Icebird is the left one. A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs, then a wide bit, to lovely hands.

On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners.

Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.

Short pitches, but packs a lot of climbing in that space. Start below a ledge four metres left of Carezza - just right of a right-facing open corner in the alcove up and left from Aitchison's Needle.

1. 16m The first pitch involves some harder-than-13 moves to get off the deck, then fairly easily upwards and left until you get to a belay on top of the pillar below the traverse.

2. 22m The traverse pitch provides some classic moves and a bit of fun for the second - make sure you place your gear well for those following! Up easily for a few metres then head right to a big grassy ledge (take your pick for belay).

3. 12m Third pitch many take the alternate version (Carezzissima Finish) which goes more direct and at a harder grade. For the original, up the corner at the back of the ledge then a few harder-than-13 moves to get up and over a flake and then easily up and away to finish off.

Start just right of LRRH. Up the line with four FHs and pockets for cams or just run it out.

Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of 'Andrew's Bulge'.

From the last ledge belay of Sweet Dreams climb the ringbolted face just left of the corner. At 15m this joins into top corner finish of Sweet Dreams (trad required).

One of the absolute classics. Considered by many to be the best line at Booroomba, noting that much of the climbing is actually face climbing rather than pure crack. Excellent natural protection. Start eight metres left of Marmalade at the slabby crack. Take lots of wires and some medium sized cams to belay. There is a rap station off to the right, above Dangermouse.

1. 30m (16) Crack to ledge.

2. 28m (18) 'Steep' crack to top.

Just another stunning line from a golden era of Australian climbing. Quite a different style to some of the other old school Piddo cracks too - which might explain why it was bumpy Bryden who got the send. Start 60m left of Skypilot. You have to scramble up 15m from the track to the base.

1. 25m 21 Awesome orange corner crack to DRB (replaced 2013 - P.T)

2. 15m The chimney above is usually not done.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder).

Start: Right of the arete. After hard boulder start it is much easier than it looks. Rebolted 2015, including a lower-off. Bring 5 bolt plates, wires, a sling for thread and a few cams including #4 camalot. Start is now protectable preclipping RB as wire placements have all blown.

Start: 1m left of 'Liquid Insanity'. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).

Steep, thin and strenuous. The best thin crack in the mountains, maybe? Crack 4m right of BEC, to a lower-off. Take a single rack up to fist sized, plus plenty of extras in the tips-fingers range.

Start: At the thin crack. Climb the thin crack until it ends at half height, step left to continue crack and up into the jams to top.

Good crack climb, lots of nuts for reassurance.

A classic climb up a steep, exposed wall and slab on good rock. An excellent intro to climbing at the Warrumbungles. Can be climbed in two pitches.

Scramble up to below the red-brown wall in middle of W Face, between prominent buttress and Abseil Gully (10 m L of Abseil Gully). Start just left of the 'V'

1. 15m To prominent ledge.

2. 35m Up close to corner for 10m and then head diagonally right to belay on Tourist Traverse. Some parties stick to the corner cracks.

3. 30m Step left to avoid small overhang. Up, superb climbing with good pro. Belay on block to avoid severe rope drag.

4. 15m Easy slab.

Up the crack as for Crackle then veer R under the roof. Dangerously underprotected through the middle section. A #5 camalot helps up high.

Start 4m left of Pharoah, just L of the arete. Arete (small-med cams, ringbolt), then right at the level of the tree to join Pharoah. Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor.

1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall.

Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.

Protection: - 1 carrot - Cams: BD #.3 (doubles), #.5 (doubles), #2

Anchors: 2 carrots (too close to the edge) 2 trees about 2 meters back from edge

Up the thin groove, break right at the overhang. Rounded exposed top out. One bolt on the main face two for the lower off. You can clip the first bolt of the route just left (Meat Puppets), some trad gear will reduce the top runout.

The right one of the 3 major crack lines. Ensure you place lots of good gear in the first half as some of the rock is a bit suspect.

Straight up the set of ledges immediately to the left of the roof, until you reach the two bolt belay. Plenty of spots for gear.

A classic. The intimidating roof section is easier than it look. Start at the left-hand side of the pillar four metres left of 'Little Hermes'. A large cam is required to safely protect both pitches (#5 is ideal, but a #4 will suffice if you're happy to wriggle in to place it).

1. 24 metres - Climb the chimney and corner crack to the top, step right and climb a short wall to a good ledge. Climb the slab, using a thin crack, to a tree belay (originally done in two pitches).

2. 26 metres - Up the magnificent corner crack (#5 protects potential ledge fall) and out right under the overhang. Belay on the ledge above or eight metres right.

A bit of a classic. The subtle rounded arete with the cool vertical ironstone band in the bottom half. Despite appearances this is not a sport route - a vital 0.75" green Camalot (or equivalent) is required between bolts 1 & 2 (a retrobolt was added and then removed in recent years). This cam is not optional - it is a substantial ground fall if you skip it. Bouldery start (you can pre-clip first bolt off the ledge on the right if tall.) Bolt plates no longer required.

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall.

The 2nd pitch is one of the classic trad pitches in the Blue Mountains. A stunning orange corner and airy traverse under a roof with oodles of history saturating your sweaty palms.

Start: Approx 28m left of 'Quits' beneath major right-angled corner.

1. 20m (15) Corner to belay on slab beneath main corner (1 carrot bolt + trad for belay).

2. 31m (20) Stunning orange corner then left around roof. Chossy easy corner above. The crack takes plenty of medium cams and is well protected - there are 4 old bolts on this pitch but these should NOT be used instead of placing trad gear.

The excellent finger crack of J into the excellent handcrack roof of ME. Lower offs added 26/5/2012.

A well protected, thoroughly enjoyable classic. Straight up the low angle corner.

There is a chain around a block at the top for abseiling (January 2021). Take care with 60 meter rope as the rap is more than 30 meters.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to top

1. 15m As for Tal to the first ledge. Best combined with pitch 2.

2. 15m (16) Up awesome crack to ledge on left with questionable carrot and fixed hanger.

3. 20m (16) Corner to roof, right under this, around lip and up into the chimney on suboptimal rock. Upon topping out you can either create a bomber trad belay in the major crack between two blocks or climb on top of these blocks and belay off two carrots. The trad belay is probably easier from a rope drag perspective.

Start as for DD. Right a bit then up wall to hairline crack, up this to top.

Start: 2m right of RHLC. Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle.

Start: 2m left of Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double BB.

In many ways shorter than its 13 metres would lead you to believe, this route starts up an easy grade 9 arete, then becomes much steeper, moving out over a rooflet with little to do with your feet for the first move or two but paste them to the limestone and grunt your way up.

If you're feeling exceptionally lazy, you can just walk up the grass slope and completely ignore the arete! Bolt recently moved down so it's below, rather than above the crux. Ringbolt lower-offs. Update 2013-08: Lower bolt has had the hanger stolen, sole bolt is at the crux

Start at parallel cracks 3 meters left of direct start.

"The first ascentionist deviated from the crack to the arete at one point on what is now considered to be the crux". Start 3m right of JC, below crack. Lower-offs at the top.

Cliff splitter!! Gear up accordingly.

Absolutely classic. Brilliant climbing on just about all pitches, lovely and tricky to start then cruisy middle-grade climbing for a long way to the top, awesome exposure, brilliant rock.

Start: Start 8m down R of Stonewall Jackson at a slabby 12m jamcrack/corner. A set of rap chains with a mound of slings on it (which is not part of the route) can be seen 40m up and about 8-10m R of the start. Can be done (just) with 2x 50m ropes.

1. 45m (18) Up jamcrack (trickier than appears) for 12m, then step L onto nose. Up for a few moves then do an intricate traverse R across slab and tricky step onto nose below chains. Nice moves lead up nose to chain, step slightly L and up corner to small belay stance at small tree/bush ~8m above chain (PR, wire, small cams).

2. 30m (18) Slightly (significantly?) harder than P1, with brilliant sustained climbing at the grade the whole way! Flaring jams and fingerlocks, tricky stemming up the steep recessed corner above the PR gains a precarious thin crack in short slab above. (From here it is possible to head diagonally R at grade 19 to eliminate the rap after P2 - though you'll miss out on a fantastic pitch!). Delicately step L on slab when possible then up next steep corner. Step R onto another short slab, then straight up with more great moves over bulges all the way to a large belay ledge. You should pass one piton on this pitch which will let you know you're in the right spot.

3. Note: time to replace the 10 year old rap sling, static rope inside 1"tape. Rap and tension down R for 18m to a surprisingly airy stance in small corner at lowest point of orange 'wing'. Some think that there is great gear here ( mainly wires), I think it's dangerous rubbish (ML). Best use the rap rope as part of the belay until there's enough good gear in P4.

4. 50m (14) Traverse R from belay (sketchy gear to start), then follow the line of least resistance diagonally R up the slab, continuous climbing at the grade in a fantastic position 100m off the deck, and following one of the most recognizable lines in Australian climbing - awesome! Generally, stay below the steep orange stuff, and at the base of the vertical black rock. Nearing the wingtip, climb up then slightly R to footledge at small bush (med. cams and wires) - a brilliant exposed belay stance.

5. 42m (14) Step R off belay then straight up past the R end of the wingtip and breach the bulge at a groove/weakness 6 to 8 m R of wingtip. Straight up great wall into a vague orange groove, which leans slightly R. Belay just before this groove leans back slightly L and steepens. From here you can see a protruding prow/nose up high (about 80m above you and slightly L). The 'exit gully' (pitch 8) is about 15m L of this prow, which tells you where P6 needs to go.

6. 42m (15) Has some slightly grotty rock but the holds are fine and the climbing is great, and you're way up there!! Up off belay then follow the slightly L leaning groove to nice moves to surmount the steepening. Continue up, trending slightly L and sticking to a slight groove feature until you are able to set up a belay at the start of the exit gully proper.

7. 48m (13) Unremarkable - maybe gets a star for being 200m in the air? Climb gully/corner, straying onto L wall whenever easier. 'Steep' moves at 40m to exit gully, then up to belay at base of pisseasy slab.

8. 48m (3) Roar up pisseasy slab to top. What a ripper of a route!

For historic purposes and in contrast to the above description, the original description is as follows:

A classic, up prominent low ramps R of Stonewall Jackson. Start 20 m R of Stonewall Jackson corner

1. 50m Slightly R to loose blocks

2. 20m Up to ledge

3. Down, then traverse R below orange rock

4. 50m Up R on ledges

5. 50m Up and slightly R

6. Up, then back L past roofs to gully.

7. 45m Gully

8. 45m continue up gully

The arete 2m left of Faith. Minimal gear.

Start 1 metre right of The Slab. Head up an easy right-veering crack, finishing at a two-bolt belay. Your pick as to which one!

Fantastic hand crack widening to offwidth. Most don't bother with pitches 2 and 3.

Start: At the crack 3 m R of Grunter.

1. 30m (19) Overcome the overhang then jamb your way to the hearts of millions. Now has rings in addition to the traditional tree anchor on large ledge. Best with 2 x #4 C4s for the offwidth.

2. 30m (-) Up dirty chimney.

3. 21m (-) Up corners to top

Start: Obvious crack L of PYMP4. DBB.

Go up the crack.