Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Boulder | |||||
V0/0+ | ★★ S9
Same start as S8, mantle sans huge flake via crimps. Up half a grade since the crux hold snapped. | 2m | Stonehenge | ||
V0+ | ★ Palm Tree
To the right of Banana lounge, high foot start, crimpy and strong! Set: Alicia Cummins, Seamus Traynor & Deon Heemskerk, 12 Jun 2016 FA: Alicia Cummins, 12 Jun 2016 | 3m | Moonbi slabs | ||
V0+ | ★★★ Right Flake Crack
Sit start as for Short Offwidth transitioning right into and up the adjacent flake crack and all the way up the slab. | 4m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | Flattie Sit Start
From jug on arete/prow. | 2m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★ 10 Crag Commandments
Start 1 metre left of BB where the good footers are located in the pocket. Head up and finish to the left in the high scoop. Down climb. | 5m | RnR | ||
V0+ | Unslab
Where the legs ends, up the obvious crack. No stars! FA: Patrick Burr | 4m | Malabar | ||
V0+ | ★ Don't Put Your Foot In That
Climb the face immediately right of the cave. Resist the temptation to put your foot in the stirrup 'cause this is Sydney sandstone. FA: Tom Bes, 2021 | 5m | Carss Park | ||
V0+ | ★ CB Slab
Africa looking slab starting from good left sidepull. | 2m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | L to R and R to L
Left to right and right back to left. There is a few spots to have a break pop up on the end on the right. mid point there is a decent little edge. Set: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Feb 2016 FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Feb 2016 | Bendemeer | |||
V0+ | ★★ Backside Direct
Sit start at the low backside feature on the northern end ofthe boulder to gain the slab/arete utilising crimps and subsequently moving left and up the arete and slab to top out directly Also the descent route. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★★ DR2.6.2
Sit start as for DR2.1.3 traversing right to finish via seamed slab of DR2.6. | 5m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | DR3.6.2
Up direct from sit start left slot crimp right undercut. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★★ RD1.9
As for RD1.7 but the good feet on right are out, directly up arete on smears. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★★ Flake Arete Sit B
| 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | Sherbert
Surprisingly good and continuous climbing up the steep little buttress. | 5m | The Fear Factory | ||
V0+ | ★★ Fr2.1
Start left side of the bloc to gain the slab and top out. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★★ The Fortune Cookie Sit Left
Sit start as for FC Right Sit Start to shuffle right and finish as for The Fortune Cookie. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★ Mollusk
| Woy Woy | |||
V0+ | ★ A Walk In The Rock
Start to the right of the low scoop as for BB. Using the undercling head up following the obvious groove. Down climb. | 5m | RnR | ||
V0+ | Tommee Tippee
Tip-toe up the ledges and edges in the middle of the wall. FA: Tom Bes | 4m | Carss Park | ||
V0+ | Direct
Up the rib/arete starting left of groundflake. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | Looky Looky
Harder than it looks. Set: Deon Heemskerk & Andrew Mclean, 5 Feb 2016 FA: Andrew Mclean, 5 Feb 2016 | 4m | Warrabah national park | ||
V0+ | ★★ Tree Line
Left of Warm Up LHV start left of the high tree branch on good holds moving diagonally left to the jug then up. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★★★ VM3.3
Climb as for VM2.3 continuing left to finish up the dihedral and slab problem of VM3.1, awesome! | 5m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | Freddie's Traverse
Sit start. Then traverse left to right across the face Set: Deon Heemskerk, Isaac Searant & Seamus Traynor, 12 Dec 2016 FA: Freddie Eather, 14 Jan 2018 | 2m | Bendemeer | ||
{FB} VB - 1 | First day at the rocks
Climb up the jugs FA: Richard Trethewey, 2002 | Gardiner's Lookout | |||
V0+ | Crap Off
Contrived fun sillyness.Layback the left side of the fallen block and then up the arete. FFA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003 | Mystery Rocks | |||
V0+ | PF3.1
Sans dab. Similar to PF2.1 except eliminating the good upper left foothold instead utilising the smaller lower footer. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★ Flake Crackvar Left
Climb Flake Crack left exiting left via ramp. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★ Hardly Holding
Start half a metre to the left of P. After 2 moves tend slightly right following the big jugs to the top. Down Climb. | 5m | RnR | ||
V0+ | ★★ Aretee Slab Central
Up direct left side of orange streak. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
VB- - 0+ | ★ Not a Toddler Anymore
Small line up obvious features on the left side of the downside of Crèche boulder. How do I delete this route??? FA: SiennaBelle Parer, 2013 | 2m | Blue Mountains | ||
V0+ | ★★ Craft beer
Right of the crack using a couple of crimps. Set: Seamus Traynor & Deon Heemskerk, 10 Feb 2016 FA: Jack, 15 Feb 2016 | 3m | Tintinhull | ||
V0+ | Better Than a head Injury
Up left side of boulder | 3m | Blue Mountains | ||
V0+ | ★ Frontside Direct
Starting on the ground (detached block is out) Western face of Smokin' Boulder, gain the slab via the jug and finish up Frontside. Take care due to loose sections of rock remain on upper slab, not a great landing. | 4m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★ Long Stems
Stand start on triangle at base of BoF moving right onto the slab and up More Flowers. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★★ Sit the Green Slab
Sit start as for Flake Slab Sit traversing left into and up Green Slab. | 6m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★ Norm'
Lovely technical sit start to Pan. | 3m | Cowra | ||
{FB} VB - 1 | First night at the rocks
Climb up the crack FA: Richard Trethewey, 2002 | Gardiner's Lookout | |||
V0+ | Full Piss
| Mystery Rocks | |||
V0+ | ★★ ACME Crack
ACME finger crack, crux at top. | 4m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★ Flake Crackvar Left Sit
| 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★ Ahoy
Start just below small tree growing out of rock. Head slightly right and up arête. FA: Tom Bes | 3m | Carss Park | ||
V0+ | ★ Crumpet of the South 2
Climb as for Crumpet of the South 1 finishing at the starting holds for Southern Crumpet 2 being sure to match the highish central crimp before going for the arete. | 3m | Cowra | ||
V0+ | ★★ Aretee Slab Right
Left of Foot Crack NE. | 2m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★ Creamgold
Crimp with the left. Feet with the low feature, high right smear. Then undercling with both hands, top out using the crystals on the edge. Set: Seamus Traynor, 10 Feb 2016 FA: Deon Heemskerk, 15 Feb 2016 | 3m | Tintinhull | ||
V0+ | ★ (Temba, His Arms Wide)
sit start with a hand in each break on low slab. stand up and gain big rail. Move up and right to top out. FA: Tom Beswetherick | 2m | Jannali Reserve | ||
V0+ | ★★★ East Diagonal
Start as for East Crack traversing right and up along the ramp until you are ready to mantle! | 5m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★★ Green Slab LHV
Start as for Green Slab moving slightly left to top out, watch the landing. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★ Right Of Resurrection
Start on the right hand corner and tend left as you send. | 3m | East Killara | ||
V0+ | ★ Trouble maker
up the nice looking boulder on the not so nice rock. FFA: Hugh Harrison FA: daryl jones | 3m | Nowra | ||
V0+ | ★ Sentinel Right
Sit start to Arete from its right side and traversing left. | 4m | Cowra | ||
V0+ | ★ Groundstone Slab
Direct up from groundstone. | 2m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | Sketchpad
| Mystery Rocks | |||
V0+ | Clogs
Up the slab on little edges, runs out a little towards the top but have faith in the little crystals. Its all feet. Set: Trent Sheather, 18 Jul 2016 FA: Trent Sheather, 18 Jul 2016 | 4m | Moonbi slabs | ||
V0+ | ★★ Alchemy
Eliminate, climbs the obvious crack/seam with feet in or right of the crack at all times from standing. Left good seam crimp is in, large block far left out, all of slab for top out is in. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | Aortic Valve
Sit start as for Left Ventricle bumping up to jugs before moving left into and up Aorta. | 2m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★ Problem 14
Pop to jugs on lip and mantle over FFA: ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m | The Stables | ||
V0+ | ★★ Rock Orchid Roof
Juggy roof on right hand end of the crag, past rock orchids. | 3m | Coffs Harbour | ||
V0+ | ★★★ Short Splitter
NE aspect. | 5m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | Fluff Free Man
Arete left of the bottom cave entrance. Needs a good clean. FA: Chris Fox, 2006 | Bouddi National Park | |||
V0+ | Prickly Pervert
Nice height easy boulder, with a cactus perched on a little ledge. Traverse around the cactus and continue to the top.. down climb to the left. Set: Deon Heemskerk, 23 Oct 2015 FA: Deon Heemskerk, 23 Oct 2015 | 5m | Burgess beach | ||
V0+ | Wall
Eastern overhanging section of Cliff, start at the central flat jug to gain the top holds and mantle the overhanging rib. | 3m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★★★ East Crack Indirect
Starting at the short crack right of East Crack to mantle the ramp before moving left and up. | 5m | Lake Copeton | ||
V0+ | ★★ Left Pods
Stand start on left arete with good slots. | 2m | Shelly Beach Headland | ||
V0+ | ★★ PR2.2
Start on low step of PR1.6 moving left to finish via the expanding crack of PR2.1. | 4m | Cowra | ||
V0+ | ★★ Blunt Arete
Starts left of groundstone. | 2m | Lake Copeton | ||
Aid | |||||
18 AID:A1 | Children's Hour
| 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
18 M4 | Gorgo
FA: J. Ewbank & A. Campbell, 1967 | 120m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
18 AID:A1 | Old and Grey
(18M1). "See topo" they said......this route isn't shown on The Crag topo! Details unsure, however a likely situation is that it shares the start of Red Heat before traversing right, sharing the end of the first pitch of Evolution. Keep going past Evolution's belay to to bolted belay 10m right on the same ledge (shared with Jump Master and 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'). Up the next pitch and a half of Reason for Man (passing a couple of bolts), before traversing left back across 'The Bridge'[724942089] and into Red Heat for a pitch or so to gain the large 'Evolution cave'. 'Old and Grey' then traverses left a pitch to join Scorpion to the top of the wall. Note that Old and Grey predates all the other routes on this wall. A great effort for the time, but unlikely to appeal to anyone sane these days. FA: Ian Brown & Don Fletcher, 1977 | 300m | Bungonia Gorge | ||
18 M2 | Lunatic
Corner, traverse left to S then up to piton. 2). Up to hollow flake, up right corner, up and right (aid), wall to belay. Off right. Start: 1.5m right of BTP on left side of square gully. FA: J.Ewbank, 1967 | 46m | Blue Mountains | ||
18 AID:A0 | ★★ Prince Planet
Start at crack 4m right of Antichrist. Up crack to ledge then left up to BR then up onto second ledge and traverse right 5m to top of boulder. Step up onto wall and up to roof then up crux to ledge. Traverse right and up over roof to wall above, aid off last BR to top out at Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. BR, cams, nuts. Watch the rope drag. FA: Terry Bernutt, Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002 | 35m | Coffs Harbour | ||
18 M2 | ★★ Stiletto
Impetuous and daring. Start 9 m R of Cutlass, below steep, L-leading line.
FA: John Ewbank & Alec Campbell, 1967 | 90m, 3 | Warrumbungles | ||
18 M5 R | ★★ The Great Untoothed
A must for choss'ists. Left leaning crack splitting right side of 'Main Wall'. Climbs BIG corner - Loose in parts. Gear: Skyhooks, Double cams and wires. Belays are well equipped with BR's and / or fixed gear. Start: Left leaning crack splitting right side of 'Main Wall' Great free route P1 to 5 the rap off. 23ish.
FA: Andrew McAuley, Julie Styles & Keiron Lawton (var), 1996 FFA: P1-5 Zac Vertrees, Rohan Druce & Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 2008 | 240m, 7 | Wolgan Valley | ||
18 M3 | True Grit
May go free one day. On the right-hand wall of 'Toadstool Rock' (start marked). Aid the very thin crack to the roof, then left to a crack and free to the top. FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1974 | 30m | Orroral area | ||
18 M1 | Rassilon
| 22m | Blue Mountains | ||
18 M1 | Eve of Destruction Variant Start
| 35m | Blue Mountains | ||
18 M1 | Austri (batman start)
| 30m | Wingello |