Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

Middle boulder strange rockover

Sitstart at little orange streak, crimps to jug and top out

2m right of Trigrams. Techy start to reach crimps then airy finish up slab.

Round left from Johnny Dory (opposite the back of Trigrams). Sitter on the big jug up to crozzles, then delicate mantle.

Boulder is found just round left from Humpback Whale by a tree. Stand start. Use flake and a high step to use a mantle up to crimps to top out. Great !

Stand start a on big flake then either stand up or throw out to the left arete then mantle. The throw is way more Fun!

Sit start at the hollow undercut slot 2m right of ‘5 Minutes Alone’. Up and over bulge.

Sit start the crimpy diagonal flake. Rock onto this, up slab via crimps, then airy finish up the the slabby nose above.

Stand start. Tricky moves up blunt nose just right of Wildcat, then on up slab.

Sit start, hands on the jugg flake, up to top out via a few crimps.

Just left of Bard. Stand start matched on the slopey rail, go direct.

3m right of Monsoon is a vegetated crack. The left arete of this provides a clean technical problem with a delicate top section.

The slab just right of the obvious weakness with crucial crimp and a few thin smears.

The centre of the obvious slab, watch the block in the landing zone.

On the NE arete. Pull on low, and climb the face via the lovely crimp/dish.

Sit start same as WOAP, gain the break then traverse right to the end for two mantles to top out. Pumpy.

Start standing, use the diagonal seam to work your way up left then top out.

Stand start, using crimps follow the seam slightly right then come back slightly left and head up through a great top out. Good

Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find).

Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger’.

Up the crack.

Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête.

Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).

Start: About 4m left of ‘Amphetamine Annie’ (approx 10-15m right of ‘Fingers’).

Up thin crack, taking care with wire protection down low, then easier wide crack to top.

Start: 4m right of ‘Last Straw’, a short wall in an alcove.

Up wall past 3BR’s to double bolt belay on ledge.

Start:The first real line you come to at the end of the descent path through the 'jungle'. The scimitar shaped crack. Up onto the top of the trunkated column, fight the blackberry and up leftward-leaning curved crack to top.

The second line you arrive at when walking into 3rd breakaway. Starts in thin obvious line above a ferny natural spring. Strenuous fingery moves, jamming and technical bridging. Plug away up twin cracks and use double ropes for peace of mind. Big tree belay 10m from edge. A hard route for short arses.

Start: 5m left of ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’; obvious finger crack capped by roof.

Originally 17M1 with the lower thin crack aided and the roof free but was freed by R.Curtis and J.Kelman Nov 1976.

Up finger to handjam crack and through roof to top.

Start: The obvious offhand crack left of the big ugly offwidth.

Originally done with an aid rest which was freed on the second ascent by M.Colyvan and E.Sharpe Dec 1981.

Up crack to top.

Arete route with a mixed bag of everything. Thin layback then up arete through several horizontals

Layback and stem up thin technical crack, then through hand crack to a chimney rest. Then traverse right on fists and slopers through the stunningly improbable cavelet which is an intermittent falcon nest and then linking into the last move of Tree Beard

Up a good hand crack past native raspberries, into cruxy rooflet, then flaring jams to top

Shares the start with 'Booster Transfer', Up the right crack

Start: About 12m right of ‘Navvy’.

Up crack to ledge, then continue up off width.

Start right hand on RH Arete then jump high to left arete then up, to blunt arete and either mantel or rock-up onto left foot.

Sit start on obvious feature with jug in left hand and rail in right. Up to the horn then mantel. Walk off.

Start in cave, fist / hand jam traverse right and up

Thin edging up slab on blunt arete

On the north side of the second highball boulder opposite 'Foot fighter'. Up the arete. If you want traverse all the way to the top along the ridge.

Right side of face

Traverse the lip on the back side of the boulder

Face left of crack

A direct stand start then link into hole then up

Sit start with good hand jams which thin out

Starts thin line up the slab. Up to overlap and diagonally right before heading up and left to finish at shared DBB

Climb the hand crack to the undercling head left, then straight up to top on features. This is a guess, it looks like it should go, just needs a light scrub. Most likely been done already.

Start on jug, big dead point out right

Thin crimp into Mantle, up the arete.

Start in the little alcove and come out onto the face via a long reach to the right into flake on face.

Sit start to New Balance

Sit start on the blocks at the base of the detached flake. Up and left-ish to the lip, then a fun mantle and wander up the runnels.

Sequency and fun

A sequence over a variety of hold types

Tricky move to get established on the slab, then balance out up the arete

SDS at obvious break. Up to obvious face features and top-out

SDS work right then up

Stand start using crack and face crimps

Sit start and up the left side of the crack.

Jump to the jug and mantle to glory.

Crouch start and up. One of the worst.

Stand start on the crimp rail. Head straight up the slab.

Stand start matched on crimp. Head up the groove to a surprisingly go-ey last move.

Start matched on the ledge and up the crack. No jams required, can be done from sit start but doesn't add in quality or difficulty.

Easy layback

Up the south face,

Start on lowest holds then up to arête.

Start: The rightwards diagonal crack. Climb the diagonal R for about 4m to where it peters out and a traverse left can be made beneath an overlap. Placing protection blindly at your feet makes the traverse quite a daunting prospect. - A fall could easily result in injury should a runner fail.

An air and exposed fridge with a wonderful view!

Start: 5m right of T.A.E. A diagonal layaway in a yellow corner with a bulge /roof up high. This is an excellent climb. Highly recommended.

1. 20m. (crux) A short slab and an awkward mantle shelf onto the ledge at the base of the diagonal crack. Delicate moves lead to strenuous layaways and a tricky little roof to finish.

2. 10m. Easy scramble to top.

Start: A beautiful thin crack, just right of H. Protection on the crux moves is sparse but you can step right and avoid it if you get the wobbles. Excellent.

20m. A strenuous reachy start then straight up the thin crack till it joins the diagonal Stop-Go which comes in on your right near the top.

Start: Woooh....another M0. Someone please come and free it. Up in the gully to the right of Illusions Of Power. A thin diagonal crack. Two hard pitches.

1. 10m. Up the crack to a large ledge.

2. 20m. (crux) Up the crack and through the roof (one rest), then continue to the top via a large crack.

Terrific but committing.

Start 3 metres right of "Soapbox Prophet". The steep groove to a corner.

Commit to the balancy start and motor up the corner with occasional good gear to where a smaller, steeper corner breaks left at 20m. Carefully up this to a good 3 1/2 friend pocket and on to the top. Off left to abseil tree, as above.

Start: The harder looking of the two cracks, deceptively hard.

15m. Follow the diagonal crack leftwards to join the Left variant at about half height, continue as for the left variant to top.

Start back deep inside, hand and body jam through roof and out

A high ball crack on the NW face of the center piece. Down climb retreat.

A classy 3 pitch arete

Slopers, then right, then left.

Up thin crimps

A different start hold every attempt! Sit start on little sidepull and big crumbly undercling. Pop into better sidepull then straight up. Beware of fragile looking block on top.

Start on the right side of the Finger-Ripper Boulder (directly behind Coff's Rock boulder, and immediately beside the fallen tree) on footers directly below the small overlap with hands on whatever you can grab. Up past overlap and onto slab on miniscule razor-sharp crystals to finish on right of boulder.

NOTE: May have already been climbed as there was a LOT of chalk all over this boulder. Please edit the name/first ascent of this route if that was you. Otherwise, this is an Open Project (I couldn't the last move to gain the slab) so go nuts!

Interesting moves, start at left end of boulder. Watch landing.

Grab some crimps on the face. Watch the fall!

sit start on the jug, up past the maybe not so bomber roof.

Right on crimp then hop to square crystal and up

Right on the 'microwave dial' then up

Start on right facing small corner, pull up and go.

Using the shallow groove of High Times and corner of Mutton Bird go up between them.

High stand start to the left of African reef on the arête.

Up steeper and thinner crimps.

West face

Traverse across sloping block to right then mantle, then up arete

Up opposing y-shaped rails