Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

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Very good. Steep with tech moves for feet.

A boulder problem starting on small block and traversing right to finish in flake in roof. Located below start of PWW.

Start: Unknown. Piton and bolt runners and large cams?

1. Slab.

2. Seam.

Campus up to break,then move L to gain jugs (cutting loose). Mantle L to Bolt belay. Step R then up.

"Extreme, yet worthwhile". Crank strenuously onto wall, clip BR in extremis and stand up. Thin moves left to rest and BR. Technical-cum-desperate moves past BR then just hard climbing past 2 BRs. Cam anchor. Start: 10m right of " Systems of Romance"

A mixed route that starts as for Feast For Fingers, moving up to the horizontal break at 7mts and traversing R across the wall into the cave. Mixed gear and a couple of rings

Climb the steep corner and feature.

Start at arête 30m R of Shazzam. Jump to jug, then traverse immediately right. Up through bouldery section (crux), then left to great climbing up arête. Mostly bolts plus cams (one large ~4, one small ~0.5). No lower-off - top belay. Note: Descent for this and other routes is by rapping from rings above Bam ba Lam.

High, committing with a bad landing! But still enjoyable.

Carrots. Grade only a rumour. Looks good.

Start: Behind bushy tree on north-facing orange wall.

Serious direct start to Crystal Palace starting below arete of Iron in the Soul

Turn left at bottom of stairs on walk in (i.e. towards Shipley Upper), there's a small overhang 30m along here before the waterfall. This route was deemed inappropriate and was erased by removing all bolts.

2m right of gully. Boulder problem start and straight up to bulge, slightly right then balancy move to topout. 3 U-Bolts.

Location of route not known - it is not between Frou Frou and The Son and Heir. This is not recorded in the old SRC guidebook where all the other routes were described.

An exciting long subtle arete route which hasn't had a lot of love. Still totally climbable despite a bit of lichen here and there. Maybe the new bolts may lure a new generation? Fix a 50m rap rope from two U bolts set well back from edge above small corner. Rap down, (clipping into a few bolts as directionals) to a total hanging belay on single bolt and #2 Friend about 10m above the ground. The route is mixed and wanders a bit so you need at a double set of medium sized cams (0.5 to 3 Camelot) and a bunch of long runners. Rebolted 2020 - no bolt plates required anymore.

The obvious smooth flake, 2m right of Obscurity trad pitch (down at sea level)

1. Climb the flake to the walk around ledge. May be a lot easier with modern small cams

Sustained climbing with a great position. Start four metres left of 'Bosch Boys'. Climb up past five bolts until the angle steepens. Move up and traverse left to the arete past two more bolts then step up on a flake to clip the eighth bolt. Downclimb two metres and move left and up the flake on 'Tautology'. Belay on 1.5 and 2 size Friends.

Sustained and delicate.

Start: 2m left of BD.

1. 35m Follow the blunt arete, moving L just before teh final steep section, then R again to the stance. 7 BR, some with FH plus a #2 Friend in crack low down.

2. 15m Slightly easier slab past BR leads to a very tricky finale over the bulge, protected by another BR. Easy walk up slab to stance & DBB

Crack and flake followed by a steep wall. Steep and run-out wall to finish.

Start: Marked SD/JB, same as Senile Dementia.

1. (40m) Climb corner to flake then out right under flake until it runs out into wall. Move up and right to BR (hard to clip) then up and left through bulge onto steep wall. Up the wall to a strange pocket taking a 1.5/2.0 cam then move right and up to BR. Up wall above to ledge. Climb remaining wall to top – tree belay.

Start: Roofs 10 m before the waterfall. Through low roof with piton and gear to ledge. Up and left into the line and up to chimney then through and right to the top

A bold undertaking that was one of the first of the bolted routes at Booroomba. The placing of bolts caused some significant controversy at the time. Start as for Ruffles at the thin crack.

1. 30m - Up the crack to the overlap, then left to a break just before the arete. Up over the bulge, then up the wall past two bolts to another bulge. Move right to belay below the short corner crack.

2. 15m - Up the corner crack to finish.

Wall climbing up the prominent and steep water streak five metres left of 'Watermelon in Easter Hay'. Up past two bolts and numerous wire placements, trending slightly left after the second bolt. Belay as for 'Tor'.

Start: 2m right of ‘Grave Reservations’, the overhanging orange Corner.

1. 20m (crux) Tip overhanging corner, then move left mid up groove to ledge.

2. 20m Up corner then gully to finish as for Grave Reservations.

Start on right of roof crack, left into roof and layback out.

Awesome steep hand crack, located just to the North of Therabulat Lookout, overlooking Nellies Glen, Katoomba. Access via Stuarts Road.

Rap off trees to ledge approx 30m down. Its quite tricky landing on the ledge as its so steep. Either pre place the gear on rap to help get you on the ledge or lasso the rope onto the pile of detached blocks and pull yourself in. Sounds dodgy but actually works.

P1. Isn't recommended. Grade 21 with hard moves off ledges.

P2. Belay 1 carrot, #1 and #2 BD cam. Classic steep hand crack that overhangs by 30 degrees. Take triple in size #1,2&3 BD cam and single rack in the rest.

Route history unknown.....Please update if you do know. Hugh Ward freed it on 29/08/2019

'What's wrong with a mind of my own'. - Dead Kennedys. For those runts without hte genetic gift of reach or crankability, this climb could possibly feel quite hard. HA, HA, HA,

(1) The next groove along from MR more of a face climbing problem than a crank exercise

Start two metres right of 'Kate's Bush'. Up and right past the first bolt. Cross the face to the crack on the right, then up the slab past the second bolt.

Start: On same boulder as Reflections, down and round L from that climb. Step off boulder onto slab. Up diagonally left for pro (desperate nut placement), then up dyke diagonally right past 2 BR to poor BB belay at trees.

A pleasant climb of sensible length, which features perfect belay stances and a spectacular second pitch. Start 5m right of the whitish R-facing corner of Green Peace. Take a single set of wires, a set of cams to #3 camalot, and maybe extra finger-hand cams. The crux pitch is fond of yellow aliens. Millions of threads, so sling up like there's no tomorrow. Two ropes needed to rap off.

1. 30m (19) Boulder onto the bobbly lump and up past a bolt to leftwards diagonal seam. At the overlap/break at about 15m, ignore your instincts and step rightwards to find a hidden gear slot. Easier climbing past a second bolt (wander around for gear) leads to the belay hole with a single tree poking out. Excellent threads can be found deep in the back of the bunghole.

2. 25m (23) One of the best pitches at Bungonia. Glorious steep jugs and good gear interrupted by a bolted bouldery crux. There's a gear slot between the bolts which is handy for dogging (twist a #6 wallnut or something similar in there). Very comfortable belay hole.

3. 30m (19) Left out of the hole and ramble up the easy slab (beware of loose crap off to the sides). Follow the threads up steepening wall to bolted bouldering. After the last bolt, climb up and right to find hidden gear in a big pocket, then step right to the bolted belay in a bunghole (shared with The Bachelor).

4. 45m (15) Shared with The Bachelor. Step left off the belay, then wander up the pleasant easy slab passing about three bolts and bunch of gear slots.

Three abseils to the ground (45m, 25m, 50m).

Follow black seam 3m L of Yellow Edge. Good wires at half height which protects the hard move to jugs.

"Just another classic" - but no stars! Start three metres left of Love Action. Up the wall to a bolt, then layback up the arete.

For many years the 'Last Great Problem'.

Start: 3m left of the large off-width at the left end of the Yellow face.

1. 14m Up a short finger crack (4m) to edge then right to straggle up corner crack in body ' V to the top of the block.

2. 9m Delicately up the open corner (cruxy) to the large ledge (halfway). 3 B.R.'s.

3. 8m Boulder problem start the easy finger crack to ledge below the small roof.

4. 26m Up crack to roof, around roof (crux) then continue up layback to small ledge, tiptoe left then continue to top.

Start: 25m right of Mail Sorter and 3m left of arete. Up and slightly right to roofs and up.

Another featureless groove by Claw packed with fixed runners, all three of them. Done complete from innovation to degradation in less than an hour or so, basically a stemming problem.

(1). The groove 3 meters right of PS.

The obvious corner crack down and right from 'Milwaulkee Pig Iron' (at the same level and 10 metres left of 'My Generation') - it had repelled a number of attempts over the years. Finish up a slab to a bolt belay.

Very pumpy for its length. An undercling going nowhere.

Start: Middle of the wall to the left of, and at right angle to PP. Stick clip 1st BR and a few hard moves gain flake. Undercling and jam to its end, and lower off the bolt..

Start: As for The Richter Scale.

Technical and goey, traverse right out of The Richter Scale past a FH then up the seam and crack. DRBB

“About as wild as it gets...”

The free version of Sisters of Mercy linking the initial flake of Spoilt Brats into the top headwall of Sisters of Mercy via a thin traverse left. Simply brilliant sustained climbing on incredible rock. Mostly all ringbolts - but requires a #1 Camalot for the opening flake and a #2 and #3 for the headwall. Now has it's own lower-off. Long runners useful.

1. 15m (10) scramble up top texas flake

2. either link up as one mege pitch keeping rope drag in mind through the roof, or climb up crack from the top of texas flake till roof crack then traverse right to belay (18)

3. 15m (23) it doesn't get more appealing as equally terrifying! set your gear and then start grovelling your way up through the roof until finally the crux!

get the crew to have the cameras on standby, this one gets the sunset picture awards

Another good steep wall. Start five metres left of Static Cling, part-way up Jack's Crack. Place a side runner. Climb up past a bolt to a ledge and up to another bolt, crank past this to a second ledge. Finish up a short corner with a third bolt.

Start as for 'Kiosks' but head right. Past single RB and 2 cam breaks up to lower off

Two brilliant pitches. On the face around the corner (to the right, looking at the cliff) of The Colours of Spring. Locate the carrot bolt on the arete of P1 before starting up.

Cams BD #0.3 - BD #4, full rack of wires + RPs.

P1 - Up face to ledge stance. Big gear (#4 BD) high in the flake on the right. Traverse to the arete (#2 BD), then up the arete past a carrot bolt and onto the slab.

P2 - Climb the sustained stemming corner to its conclusion past 3 carrot bolts with mixed fiddly gear to keep it sane. Crucial small wire in the flake before the 3rd bolt. At the top, belay off two carrots below Pitch 3 of The Colours of Spring, but consider extending your belay to the edge to avoid dropping rocks on your second.

NOTE: At the moment there are NO rings to rap off from the top of Pitch 2. Be prepared to leave behind a prussic (slinging the carrots) and carabiner to rap 55m to the ground, IN CASE the in situ rap gear is gone.

Tricky, sustained and simply superb.

Start: The crack/seam immediately right of 'Pin Up'. Follow the crack to the ledge then on to top.

Up undercut arete past rusted bolt.

Start 1m R of Bones. Up crack #3.5 cam, yellow TCU, yellow link cam, small wires, to pink horn. Take a breath and do crux. Then more TCUs, RPs in micro seam and #1 cam, finger size cam then anchors.FInishes as for SS

'K.C. sux, 3st, & peg scar' are the highlights of this climb. There are also two fixed wires to be found in the groove, one is a Moorhead and the other is a turd, these two pieces of pro plus the associated graffiti make this climb a real classic, worth doing even if you hate the sight of it.

(1) The groove ten metres right of PS.

Mixed gear with old carrots and a couple of cams #0.5 - 1 to get you to the top.

The short thin crack on a boulder 30 metres below 'My Generation'. Up the awkward thin crack to some hard slabby moves onto a ledge. Move right and up the easy hand crack.

An interesting groove with an infuriating overhang. Andrew Penney returned to eliminate the single point of aid.

Start: 10m right of Goog 'Gully'. The left groove of two. Up short slab past BR into crack. Easily up crack, groove to bulge, hard move past BR to gain groove then up easy slab past two carrots to shared 2FH anchor.

Far right route on the wall. Start near right corner system. Past 3 bolts to ledge, then up faint line past more bolts to top. Bring large cams for upper section.