Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
21 | |||||
The Loony Bin The Loony Bin | |||||
21 | ★★★ Summer Madness
Hard start and then trend left along the edge of the roof. Great knee bar and a nice pull through the roof to end. Start at the right hand side of the roof cap. FA: Mad Matt T., 2000 | 12m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Cuckoos Nest
Up and trend right to the break under the roof. Pull up through the head wall to the anchors. A beautiful piece of work, very sexy moves Start under the right hand side of the roof. 6RB's to LO FA: Simon Vaughan | 12m, 6 | |||
Hillbilly Highway Walls Main Wall - Central Flutings | |||||
21 | ★★ Where Angels Fear To Tread.
Traverse in right, up the fluting using the right hand arete. Surmount the roof. FA: MT, 2013 | 30m, 14 | |||
Area 51 | |||||
21 | ★ Wagging
Climb large rock, clip first bolt and step on to wall at juggy overhang. Head up trending left to gain ledge. Move over slabby bulge to reach arete. Up juggy wall just left of arete clipping RBs as you go. Double chain lower off. FA: Mike Law-Smith & Simon Vaughan, 2000 | 20m | |||
21 | ★ 51 Equipe
Left of B. Makes 51 a sport climb. Clip bolts on right hand wall to access rings on 51 headwall. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2003 | 17m | |||
21 | ★ Butch
First climb on cliff. Follow RBs up series of roofs to reach large sundeck. Climb middle of wall following RBs (easier climbing up left edge of wall but not as nice). Head up to chain lower off. Lower off slowly to avoid rope wear over edge. FA: G Murray | 16m | |||
Mount Alexandra The Main Cave | |||||
21 | ★ Sensei Woo
"Batman" up to obvious good incut holds, then heave up to slab and up headwall as for "Airy Not Scary" Underneath big grey bulge 5 metres right of Project - Simon Vaughan All you need is belief and a little bit of Kung Fu FA: Simon Vaughan, 2013 | 15m | |||
21 | ★ El Captain Pants
Rebolted 9/10/2010. Up little closed corner passing 3 RB's and surmount top of corner to clip the the first headwall RB of "Three Wise Monkey's" then step right. Up the tricky start and headwall. How the boys arrived at grade 17 for this route I don't know? FA: Flint Duxfield & Geordie Williamson, 1998 | 20m, 8 | |||
Mount Alexandra The Alcove | |||||
21 | Welcome to Moss Vegas
Tiny crimps. Short and sweet. Short and balancy. will be Ok once the moss wears off a bit! Hard 21. FA: Matt Tranter, 2010 | 8m, 4 | |||
Mount Alexandra Manchester United Wall | |||||
21 | Green Gate
Stem up corner to start then trend right to anchors. Start just left of SA at the green grassy 'gate'. Open the gate !! and pull up the little corner to the pedestal. Edges, slopes and layaways up vertical wall after stepping right from the corner when you can. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012 | 12m | |||
Mount Alexandra Central Area | |||||
21 | ★ Crimp da buttock
Between Reborn and D. Starts easily up to bulge, hard move on high crimps through bulge and then up the short orange headwall to anchors of D FA: Tim M-S, Sep 2017 | 20m, 5 | |||
Mount Alexandra Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall | |||||
21 | ★ Trollberg
A weird crux section at 3rd bolt (can be avoided on L, don't!). Start at bulgy face with RB's 14m L of CFH. Up to double rings. FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze & Mark Pauluffchenko, 1997 | 16m | |||
21 | ★ Chicken
Straight up the tricky slab (4 RB) and then join Chook at the headwall. Start 2m right of Corner From Hell (4m left of Chook). FA: Simon Vaughan, 2006 | 16m, 7 | |||
Mount Alexandra The First Cave | |||||
21 | ★★ Galvanise Variation
To the right of Galvanise. Undercling to high reach then link RB back into top of Galvanise. | 15m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Jello
As for Galvanise, but traverse right after 4th RB past another RB and clip the last RB on Biafra, then up to anchors. Good way to get the gear on Biafra. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2006 | 14m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ Bruised Poonarnee
Start between Biafra an Galvanise. Trick start then up flake to break. Then as per G to anchors. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2008 | 14m, 6 | |||
Belanglo State Forest The Chopping Block The Chopping Block | |||||
21 | ★ Dodging Bullets
Nice heaving on big holds to balancy moves to gain stance then some trickiness to triple bolt anchors. Under cut start left hand side of wall facing the gorge FA: Simon Vaughan | 12m | |||
Wingello Gulp Road Big Poo Environs | |||||
21 | ★ Darkness and Darkness
In shady gully 1m right of chimney. Up diagonally right then up scoops and back towards cave. Be wary of tree at half height. FA: v wills, 2011 | 18m, 8 | |||
Wingello Gulp Road Candy & Supa Fun Happy Walls | |||||
21 | ★ Pura Vida
Start as for FP. Up for one bolt then step right to right side of scoop. Up this then hand traverse right to gain scoops just left of arete. Climb these to some balancy moves on the arete. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007 | 20m | |||
Wingello Gulp Road Rave Cave | |||||
21 | ★★ Howling at the Moon
Start at right side of cave at small flake and rock cairn. Use rock cairn to gain ledge then head up through steep scooped wall to rest. Blast out the horizontal rooflet to gain the final pocketed headwall. Keeps going all the way. FA: Bundy, 2007 FA: 2008 FA: 2008 | 25m, 8 | |||
Wingello Gulp Road Noli Ne Tangere Wall | |||||
21 | ★ Smiley Face
Left of Cafeine on the darkish rock. Climb thru the smiley to the eye, up and over right. Under small roof to link into Cafeine. FA: Bundy, 2008 | 18m | |||
Wingello Gulp Road Effugio (Escape) Wall | |||||
21 | Combat Drill
Slabby route 3m right of RR. Fingery and sustained. FA: Vanessa Wills, 2008 | 16m | |||
21 | ★ Top Shelf
Start: where access gully hits ledge. Climb long wall past cave to anchors. FA: Renato | 15m | |||
Nerriga old wool north Austin Powers Ledge | |||||
21 | ★ Frau Farbissina demands discipline
A couple of thin moves mid height. | 15m, 5 | |||
Nerriga old wool north Oh Baby Buttress | |||||
21 | ★ Silence is Loud
FA: Corey Sawyer | 15m | |||
Nerriga The Gym and Environs Pussy Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Savage Kittens
Pumpy arete with plenty of bolts FA: Richard Watts & Brogan Bunt | 20m | |||
Nerriga The Gym and Environs Mexico Wall | |||||
21 | Gringo
FA: Brogan Brunt | 8m | |||
Bungonia Gorge North Wall - Main | |||||
21 | ★ Arctic Cat
FA: Chris Fitzgerald, Jul 2014 | 25m | |||
21 | ★★ She Wolf in the Closet
FA: Chris Warner, Sep 2014 | 22m | |||
Cinderella Crag Pitt Street Wall | |||||
21 | ★ First Blood
Up white stuff to punchy crux, well actually tricky down low as well FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013 | 15m | |||
20 | |||||
Goulburn & Surrounds Marsden Weir Rocks | |||||
20 | ★ U.T
Pumpy little overhanging climb on bulletproof rock. Set: Adam Rabjohns, @brettweb & Brett webb, 2018 | 7m, 5 | |||
Goulburn & Surrounds Pejar Bouldering | |||||
20 | ★★ 20
Start on the left of the arete, moving onto the right face after the 1st bolt. Continue up to the DBBs on the top. Set: Chas Ruffles FA: Chas Ruffles | 6m, 4 | |||
Penrose Forest Stingray Swamp | |||||
20 | ★★ Jack Attack
Set: Adam Rabjohns, Aug 2017 | 12m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Short & Sweet
Blast straight up this firecracker. | 6m, 3 | |||
The Loony Bin The Loony Bin | |||||
20 | ★ Mad Patty.
Up the vague arete on the block at the far right hand end of the crag. Start 2m left of 'Simpleton Steps' Harder than it looks. FA: Simple Simon, 2010 | 12m | |||
20 | ★★ Martini
Traverse right and take a full body rest if you must at the ledge. Pull through grit style slopers to the top. Shares the first bolt with Summer Madness. FA: Simple Simon, 2010 | 12m, 5 | |||
Mt Gibraltar Slab Walls | |||||
20 | ★★ Riding Shotgun (Underneath the Hot Sun.)
Middle of the slab. Thin moves well protected. FA: Matt Tranter, 2018 Set: Matt Tranter, 2018 | 15m, 8 | |||
Mt Gibraltar Main Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Big Bird
1
17
2
20
3
19
Start at short crack with U-bolts about 80M R of the big corner, below obvious steep layback corner.
Scramble up and left to lookout. FA: Gareth Downey & Mikl Law, 2012 | 65m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Modern Masculinity Top Pitch
Can be climbed as an alternate pitch to the final pitch of Big Bird. It's a little harder and a lot scarier. Seconds beware of the potential for a big swing. Maybe clean the second draw after mantling (you'll see). 2 fixed hangers on the left arete of the beak. FA: James Bultitude, 2014 | 15m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Slow Twitch
Start below obvious corner. Up slab to corner, then up corner to finish. Lower-Offs. 7 bolts. FA: M. Law, 1988 | 30m, 7 | |||
20 | ★ the Italian Route
Slab 10m left of Slow Twitch corner. 4 BRs. Set: Michael Law FA: Patrick Burr, 2012 | 20m | |||
Mount Alexandra The Alcove | |||||
20 | ★ Back to the Future
Climb up the Arete. Short and Sharp. Originally no protection, soloed by Tim Cartwright, now bolted. Start in the alcove below the Arete. Set: Matt Tranter FA: Matt Tranter, 2010 | 8m, 4 | |||
Mount Alexandra Manchester United Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Manchester United
1m left of DA. Boulder start to first RB then up past 3RBs to mantle through to another RB to DRB lower off shared with DA. | 15m | |||
Mount Alexandra Central Area | |||||
20 | ★ Judas Escariot
Start 2m L of PPP. Named after Tim Cartwright went under Craig Slosses nose and stole his project! Rebolted with 8 rings to lower offs. Start: Left of Pre 'Pimple' Pop at jugs at track level FA: Tim Cartwright, 1991 | 10m, 8 | |||
20 | ★ Everything Audrey
Same start as Pre Pimple Pop but stay right through two caves finishing on technical vertical wall. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009 | 12m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Thomas the Tank
Start under the over hung crack. Lock off in the crack and go for the thank god hold on the lip. Set: Matt Tranter FA: matttranter, 2011 | 10m, 6 | |||
20 | ★ Kiddies Chorus
The left of the 3 routes on the amazing high headwall Up vege gully as for Deception and QDS Up the leaning yellow corner and step right onto the mini arete and then onto the headwall FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010 | 20m, 8 | |||
20 | ★ Deception Variant
Make a move left from the fixed hanger of 'Deception' | 15m | |||
Mount Alexandra Sundeck | |||||
20 | ★ Piccolo Luna
3m right of P2 of B. A tough little unit. Up nice compact wall past 2 RBs to DRB lower off. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2004 | 8m, 2 | |||
Mount Alexandra Vox Populi Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Iclimb
Up Silver Fox past newly added first bolt and up to rock over past the bulge and straight up the headwall to DRB anchors in orange scoop. Start as for Silver Fox Fine balancy climbing just after the start and on to the anchors. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012 | 15m, 6 | |||
20 | ★★ Silver Fox
Start 4m left of VP. Up slab with some nice balancy moves. Move right and cross VP and straight up over rooflet. 5RB to DRB Lower off. FA: Jason Lammers, 2006 | 16m | |||
20 | ★★ Three and a Half Thousand
A ripper of a climb, great slopey slab climbing. Up the wall following the nice line of RBs up the face, then through the small overlap to anchors. FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze & Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997 | 16m, 7 | |||
Mount Alexandra Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall | |||||
20 | ★ Surprise
Start: 10m left of CFH, near tree. Up past 4 RBs to double RB lower off. FA: G Murray & S Vaughan | 15m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Corner from Heaven
Start up the obvious easiest line as for Corner From Hell then wandering right at one third height and balance up the headwall, joining Chicken. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010 | 20m, 7 | |||
20 | ★★ Chook
New FHs in 2000 replaced some only manky bolts. Now a fantastic excursion. Undercut start, then slab to sustained head wall. 5 FHs to lower off. | 16m | |||
Mount Alexandra The First Cave | |||||
20 | ★★ Galvanise
Start 3m left of B. Nice route or good warmup for the harder stuff in the cave. Stays dry in pouring rain. 5 RB to Lower Offs. FA: Jason Lammers & Steve Hawkshaw, 2006 | 10m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Death of a New Car Salesman
A nice line, a bit tricky to clip the 2nd bolt. Up past 5 RBs to U anchor lower off. Stiff at 20 (could be 21), but guess who bolted it ? Start: Start: Behind Tree FA: Mark Woodard, 1997 | 10m, 5 | |||
Belanglo State Forest Red Arm Creek South Face | |||||
20 | ★★ I Need Your Clothes Your Boots & Your Motorcycle
Set: Adam Rabjohns, Nov 2017 | 9m, 5 | |||
Belanglo State Forest The Chopping Block The Chopping Block | |||||
20 | ★ One Fatal Blow
Up corner with interest to an airy finish on the headwall In the corner around to the right of the main wall as you face the cliff The corner is hard and 3D to get up and the headwall is steeper than you think FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011 | 12m, 6 | |||
Badgerys Lookout | |||||
20 | ★ Toad Hall
First set of ring bolts as you exit the descent gully. Thin face climbing. Lower rings set back from the top ledge. Set: Matt Tranter, 2020 FA: Cliff Barnett, 31 May 2020 | 10m, 5 | |||
Wingello Gulp Road La Sancta Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Tree of Damocles
Up faint corner. Start: 4m right of T. FA: Vanessa Wills, 2008 | 22m, 7 | |||
Wingello Gulp Road Candy & Supa Fun Happy Walls | |||||
20 | ★★ Hazy Days
The wall and airy arete up and right of AT P1. Some great moves and stunning position. Some of the bolts are hard to clip. FA: V Wills, 2007 | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ Wild Strawberries
Start as for Arc, straight up thin wall staying out of the crack, continue up to airy finish. FA: Bundy | 26m | |||
Wingello Gulp Road Nubigena Wall | |||||
20 | ★ The Perfect Storm
Straight up through three bulges and obvious sccoops in the middle of the wall. 6 RB's to lower offs FA: Rod Wills, 2007 | 12m, 6 | |||
Wingello Gulp Road San Pedro Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Not Hungover, Just Tired
The climb on the right of the orange slab. Up wall tending right after 3rd RB to lower off. FA: Scott Hare, 2007 | 12m | |||
20 | ★★ Pinger
As for NHJT then head left for 3 more RB to DRB lower off. FA: Bundy, 2007 | 12m | |||
20 | Edgar Pinkets existential crisis
The girdle traverse. Start up SP and tackle the entire roof crack to finish on anchors as for NHJT. Maybe stuff some cams in between the bolts if your a homo. FA: Edgar Pinkets, 2007 | 20m | |||
Wingello Gulp Road La Paz | |||||
20 | Studley
Up past massive glue on FA: Simon Vaughan, 2008 | 8m | |||
20 | ★ Spondonicals
The leftmost climb on this wall of gold. Bouldery start (the block is off) to gain wall, couple more moves, clip, then its all over. Yay ! FA: Bundy, 2008 | 8m | |||
The Monastery Roped 2 | |||||
20 | ★ Back in the Saddle
2 metres right up the gully. Follow tufa to ironstone ledge, balance with difficulty to next ledge. Throw to sloppy top. Set: Matt Tranter FA: Matt Tranter, Jun 2019 | 9m, 4 | |||
Nerriga old wool north Austin Powers Ledge | |||||
20 | ★★ Where's my Mojo
Pull onto the steep wall and clip bolt, trend right following more bolts to DBB. FA: Rick Carey & David Cameron | 15m, 6 | |||
Nerriga old wool north West Side | |||||
20 | ★★ Dust Brothers
4 FH to shared DRBB | 15m, 4 | |||
Nerriga old wool north Oh Baby Buttress | |||||
20 | ★ Pleasantly Warm
just right of AO FA: Corey Sawyer & Gavin Oliver, 2001 | 15m | |||
20 | Fear is a Mind Killer
Start as for PftP, after the second tend right before heading up. FA: Gavin Oliver, 2004 | 18m | |||
20 | ★★ Passion for the Possible
Start on narrow rib FA: Gavin Oliver, 2004 | 18m | |||
20 | Transport of Delight
Bouldery start tending left through overlaps FA: Gavin Oliver, 2004 | 18m | |||
Nerriga The Gym and Environs orange wall | |||||
20 | midget madness
Approach to wall above (Sumo Dancer) 2 bolts ? | 8m, 2 | |||
Nerriga The Gym and Environs Flintstone Slab | |||||
20 | ★ Pebbles
FA: Pat Cotter & Tony Barten | 20m | |||
20 | Animal Appliances
Middle line and quite sustained FA: Brogan Bunt & Tony Barten | 20m | |||
Nerriga The Gym and Environs Dead Head | |||||
20 | ★★ 3 Arseholes
Straight up the wall from the start of Viva FA: Pat Cotter & Mike Peck | 15m | |||
20 | Viva Contreros
Start further right and traverse upwards to the ledge. Up the heucos above FA: Brogan Bunt & Andrew Dunbar | 15m | |||
Bungonia Gorge SRC Crag | |||||
20 | ★ Unknown 1
The contrived line of bolts furthest left, just left of the arete. Set: jason hayes, 1995 | 12m | |||
Bungonia Gorge Reflux Crag | |||||
20 | ★ Punchy
FA: Mike Law Smith | 12m | |||
20 | A Ranger Deal
Start on the face and right side of the arete, behind a large tree. Very high first bolt - stick clip recommended. Upper third is a bit odd... Nice climbing to be had direct up the bulge, but the third bolt is actually hidden down and right behind a small bush and the route finishes with a traverse across to the rings on Angry Ants. | 12m, 3 | |||
Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Little Thai Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Lame Duck
To the right of Gilding The Lily. Finishes just under the roof at half height. FA: Chris Warner, 2003 | 15m | |||
Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Jabba the Short
Jabba the Slut, stopping at the ringbolt under the roof. A good warm up if you get dragged up here on a 5 degree day. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 15m, 7 | |||
Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Main | |||||
20 | Antique
Up the slab past three bolts to ledge and tree. | 50m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ Stardust
The next line right with four spaced FHs. Apparently there is no rap anchor so after the last bolt and below the overlap traverse left a long way to rap anchors above Pulsar. FA: Scott Camps, 1985 | 50m, 4 | |||
Cinderella Crag Pitt Street Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Django
First large rock cairn. Up toughish start to a series of stepped overlaps. Anchors halfway up wall at large horizontal break. FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013 | 15m, 5 | |||
19 | |||||
Penrose Forest Stingray Swamp | |||||
19 | ★★ Broken Zipper
Set: Adam Rabjohns, Aug 2017 FA: Adam Rabjohns, 6 Aug 2017 | 12m, 4 | |||
19 | ★★ Grunting Sloth
Powerful moves up the arete to common lower offs. FA: Oscar Bell, 24 Sep 2017 | 6m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Hulk Up
Start left of the bulge, heel hook over the top then powerful moves to the top. FA: Paul zucchetto, 6 Aug 2017 | 8m, 3 | |||
19 | Flu Season
Up mini crack and ledges. Thin and getting thinner as all the edges round off. Set: Matt Tranter FA: Matt Tranter, 11 Sep 2019 | 8m, 3 | |||
Penrose Forest Luxor Main Cliff Left Side Pharos Tower | |||||
19 | ★ All Aboard The Outrage Train
Arete on the small face of this tower. Short but fun. Steeper than it looks. FA: Matt Tranter | 9m, 3 | |||
Penrose Forest Luxor Main Cliff Left Side | |||||
19 | Leo’s Lovely Ledge.
Right hand side of the cave. Unless you are a giant , traverse left and use the blunt scoop until you can punch up to the Lovely Ledge.Uses the right hand side of the cave arete. Enjoy the view through the hole into the cave behind, taking care not to disturb the choss. Set: Matt Tranter FA: Leonie Meades, 2022 | 10m, 4 | |||
Penrose Forest Luxor Main Cliff Right Side | |||||
19 | Ra Ra
First few moves up the crack and then move onto the face. Set: Matt Tranter, 2019 | 11m, 5 | |||
The Sanctuary Dad's Crag | |||||
19 | ★ Lost In Time
Left of Family Affair at left end of mini cave | 12m | |||
19 | Not For Old Men
Up through the crumbly bands to the top. Short. Off Balance. A bit weird! 1 metre to the right. FA: Matt Tranter, 2012 | 6m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Wasted on the Youth
Start by the large tree. Up pockets to edge of dodgy looking block. Weird mantel to anchors above ledge. About grade 16 if you wuss out and step on the very tempting tree branch. FFA: Matthew Tranter FA: Matthew Tranter, 10 May 2016 | 10m, 3 | |||
The Sanctuary Hobo's Hangout | |||||
19 | ★★ Curse of the Pikeys
10 metres right of the last climb on the same height as Millionaire. Climb straight up the gold to the juggy roof. FA: Matt Tranter, 2012 | 12m |