Ascents in Butterfly Wall

wow what a route. got all moves wired and linked in big sections.

So stoked to have ticked this route! First got on it 2011, dislocated my shoulder as it branches right, took 2 years off climbing, couldn't do it last year, broke my ankle this year and finally ticked it today in primo conditions. Finally, the 4 nowra 28's are done!

Felt like a dream pulling the moves as the sun went down and the wall glowing orange. Probably the hardest of the four 'classic 28s' but boy what a climb! Powerful and sustained climbing on slopey crimps. Rad.

Thin and hard! I finally got the heel move down pat - it just doesn't work until you push your toe right down. From there it's thin as fuck to the break! Just motor down and keep going! I did it in two halves but not close to linking it.

Best shot was my first but fluffed it after the crux by just missing a hold! My last shot of the day, I made it a move and a half further but couldn't pull the holds. I feel like it's close!

My heel kept slipping out of the heel-hook after I'd latched the next hold. Maybe had something to do with attempting it in socks and shoes. As soon as I made it past I made it to the top! Definitely hardest 28 to date.

One to come back for!

Punchy. Took a little bit of refinement.

Bullen & Broadfoot, two strong units.

Finally dogged my way up this mega classic! The main sequence feels hard, but within the realms of possibility. Needs a bit more work before it'll go.

Finally got around to doing this classic.

Like seeing an old, unrequited crush after many years.. I've fallen back in love and want to spend every weekend climbing this thing. Not sure I can convince any of my friends to come back though.. Maybe for the best. Plenty of other climbs in the sea..

2 more dog laps today. Managed to stick every move within about 15 minutes. Might finally be time for some real red point burns!

Another dog lap to keep the beta fresh. Concluded that this should be climbed in the morning before the sun hits the wall.. Sideways progress atm. Still frothin' though.

Start of Stone Roses felt super dialled, the I was able to get one more draw bolt to bolt through some thin crimps and was pulling up on the matched hands, tried the high right foot and got it on but couldn't stick the right hand without falling backwards. Happy with how I went given it was my complete antistyle at my limit. Maybe try again in a few years when I'm stronger.

Awesome! Such perfect rock. About 6 or 7 goes. Felt quite hard for the grade

the best, hyper classic

4 shots. Amazing route with great rock and climbing.

Some day.

what can i say. the best route at the point.

1st go 2day. The sendidge Gods had the gate open. 28/5/05: 1 rest, just gotta set the heel, rest OK. 25/9/04:1 rest, just missed the send with a bit of sillly footwork, Doh! 28/8/04:Got the heel hook sussed, just need tips.14/8/04:You walked past this one 100 times and thought 1 day. This was the day. Excellent! 2 goes, will go with fresh tips.

oh man, so close, should get it next time.

thanks for putting the draws on JJ

will be back, but almost killed myself falling off this one!!

post injury attempt, should go next time.

2 shots today. can get to the crux clean, having problems setting the heel correctly... with time and training.

first shot of the day, felt pretty solid.

9/7 - Nailed!! 2/7 - Fkn awesome. 2 shots so far, 2 rests on seccond go. Awesome climbing. SET THAT HEEL!

harsh and nice

A fantastic climb. One of Nowras best '6's. Just be careful of the tree if you fall before clipping the anchors!!!

Worked out all the moves but fell at the end of the crux on my second shot. Down point left heel is key.

Sic route, sic moves, gotta be back for this one! Painfull 2 finger pocket, pointing toe down on the heel hook move is key

33 deg does not equal good sending conditions, brilliant route that will have to wait till winter.

Awesome Awesome Awesome. This route is the full package and its great to finally get it done. Should have sent second shot but punted it into the break at the top of the crux. Fell same spot third shot, tweaked the foot work then sent next shot..

Nails for a 6 but worth the effort.

Another "very nearly ticked". Need another day and to be fresh. Got through the crux on last day of trip, 4th day on. A day of rest would have helped. Exciting climbing for Nowra.

Another burn to the top to refresh. Still a bit nervous after all these years.

I distinctly remember walking under this route on my first visit to Thompsons and thinking "one day...". Stoked to finally tick it!